• Acta Via Serica
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.85-108
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• 2017

This paper details the advance of the "Hui" (回) people to Korea and their socioeconomic activities in forming their own community during the late Goryeo and early Joseon period. Hui (回) or Hui Hui (回回) is generally recognized as representative of Muslim culture in Chinese and Korean sources. From the $8^{th}$ century, Korean-Muslim cultural relations accelerated as an outcome of ancient Chinese-West Asian commercial transactions along the Silk Road. These contacts between Muslims and Koreans on the Korean peninsula are borne out by references to Korea found in 23 Islamic sources written between the $9^{th}$ and $16^{th}$ centuries by 18 Muslim scholars, including Ibn Khurdadbih, Sulaiman al-Tajir, and Mas'ud1 i. Ibn Khurdadbih was the first Arab who wrote of Muslims' residence in the Unified Silla Kingdom (661-935CE). However, in the period of Silla, we could not find any reliable written documents in Korea to show encounters between Korea and the Muslim world. In the Goryeosa (GS) chronicle, Muslim merchants who came to Korea were described as "Daesik" (大食: Tashi). Daesik (Tashi) is most probably derived from "Tajir", which means "trader" in Muslim language. Muslims' mass influx and their wide ranging influence on Korean society manifested from the late $13^{th}$ century when the Goryeo Dynasty first came under Mongol control and afterward in the early $15^{th}$ century with the new dynasty of Joseon in Korea.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.53-66
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• 2021

In the study of Buddhist architecture before the Goryeo Dynasty, the analysis of sectarian viewpoints is one of the effective means. In the study of Buddhist architecture before the Goryeo Dynasty, analyzing from the point of view of a Buddhism sect is one of the effective means. Until now, compared to the importance of the Beopsang school before the Goryeo period in the field of research on the history of Buddhist architecture, research on its temples was the least compared to those of other denominations. In this study, as one of the studies on Beopsang school temples, Geumsansa(金山寺), Beopjusa(法住寺), and Donghwasa(桐華寺), which were built as the Jinpyo's Beopsang school temple in the late 8th century and maintained until the Goryeo Dynasty, were targeted. And I tried a rudimentary analysis on the building composition of those temples from the viewpoint of the beliefs and teachings of Beopsang school. This study is meaningful in that it is the first attempted study in the field of architectural history on the Buddhist temple of the Beopsang school, which led non-Zen sects of Buddhism along with the Hwaeom school until the Goryeo Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.135-146
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.19-28
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• 2022

The construction period of the ondol (Korean floor heating system) at Hoeamsa Temple Site is known as Joseon. The main reason is that a large number of remains in the Joseon era were excavated from the ondol floor with an all-around ondol method. This article partially accepts the theory of the creation of Ondol at Hoeamsa Temple Site during the Joseon Dynasty and suggests a new argument that some Ondol remains were built during the Goryeo Dynasty. The grounds for them are as follows. First, through the building sites consistent with the arrangement of the Cheonbosan Hoeamsa Sujogi (天寶山檜巖寺修造記, Record of Repair and Construction of Hoeamsa at Cheonbosan Mountain), it is highly likely that the ondol remains as a basic floor was maintained during the reconstruction period in Goryeo. Second, the all-around ondol method of the Monastery Site has already been widely used since the Goryeo Dynasty. Third, some ondol remains consist of "Mingaejari" and "Dunbeonggaejari," which were the methods of the gaejari (which dug deeper and stayed in the smoke) in the pre-Joseon Dynasty. Based on the above evidence, this study argues that the building sites such as Dongbangjangji, Seobangjangji, Ipsilyoji, Sijaeyoji, Susewaryoji, Seogiyoji, Seoseungdangji, Jijangryoji, and Hyanghwaryoji were constructed during the late Goryeo Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.193-210
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• 2024

The portrait featuring Jo Ban(1341-1401), a scholar-official from the late Goryeo and early Joseon period, and his wife is the oldest surviving couple portrait in Korea. It is of great value in uncovering the clothing culture of the period given the limited number of historical artifacts and records. This study examines the historical clothing and textile patterns of Jo Ban's wife and reproduces them using 3D fashion design software program CLO. She wears jokduri, chima, and baeja over layers of jeogori, a mixture of traditional Korean and Chinese styles. Her clothing illustrates eight patterns-one flower, five geometric, and two cloud. Records and relics of similar periods show that flower and geometric patterns in her clothing follow the prevailing styles of Goryeo, while the cloud patterns are representative of early Joseon. These details are used to reproduce six different styles of Jo Ban's wife with CLO tools. Various visualizations of textile patterns are applied to materials, generating a more realistic look than her existing 3D character created with the portrait. Results of this study are expected to help promote the use of Goryeo clothing and patterns in numerous designs and enhance intuitive understanding of Goryeo clothing based on 3D visualization.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.59
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• pp.9-32
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• 2015

The purpose of this paper is to study the development process of our native verses from the Three Kingdoms Period to the Goryeo Dynasty. The contents of the discussion can be summarized as follows. Typical form of "Sanega" from the Three Kingdoms Period to the late Silla/ early Goryeo Dynasty is a well organized 3-layered structure representing the contents of enlightenment of a high priest. Sanaega has a poetic style characterized by distinct literary features compared to other native verses in the same era. The reason is that 10-line Hyangga improves its poetic level as it is aware of Chinese poetry. As it enters the Goryeo Dynasty, this literary composition starts to change. In other words, Sanega declines and quatrain emerges in the front of literary history. Unlike the Three Kingdoms Period ~ the late Silla/ early Goryeo Dynasty, development of quatrain results from that native verses enhances the characteristics of song rather than poem in the Goryeo Dynasty. Native verses form the mutually complementary relationship by adjusting the position as the song rather than competing with it as the poem as Chinese poetry becomes more common. In the Goryeo Dynasty, Sanaega declines and Sijo emerges in literary history, because native verses have been developed in the poetic form to freely express general emotion and to be more loved from the public. It is in the same vein as a native verse in the form of quatrain raises its vitality by enhancing the characteristics of the song through the adjustment of its position compared to Chinese poetry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.27-41
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• 2013

This study is to examine the costumes of Gyeokgu in different situations and to suggest when and how they should be used in historical drama. Gyeokgu is a type of polo game that was played in Korea and it was also known as Gyeokbong and Bonghee. The accounts of the game show that it was played during the South-North period as recorded in Balhaego, Haedongyeoksa, and Goryeosa until the Joseon period. The scenes of Gyeokgu have been shown in some historical dramas in order to make the story exciting or to show the life of royalty. The costume of Gyeokgu in the South-North period should be suggested Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) in a formal situation. The Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period was a sport for royalty. So the Gyeokgu costume in the Goryeo period was required to be worn with Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) for the kings and military officers in the early Goryeo period and with Cheollik(帖裡), Balip or Huklip(黑笠), and Haw(靴) from the middle of the Goryeo period. Women could wear Chima(skirt), Jeogori(blouse), Pyo, and Li(履) when they play Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period in the historical dramas. The Gyeokgu in the early Joseon period was a sport for the kings. After the king of Sejong, the Gyeokgu became a martial art for the military officers. The costume of Gyeokgu in the Joseon period should be Red Cheollik(紅帖裡), Kwadu, Jonglip, Gwangjodae(廣組帶), Sagu, and Haw(靴) as recorded in Muyedobotongji in the 18th century. The kings, servants, and military officers could wear the Cheollik and should be made in the different Git(collar), shape of the sleeves, and the proportion of the upper part and the underpart in each period properly. When the citizens play Gyeokgu, they could wear Geon(巾), Baji(pants), Jeogori(shirt), and Gipsin in the late Joseon period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.112-132
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• 2015

Banya was a concubine slave of Shindon(辛旽) who was a powerful monk in late Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the mother of King Woo(禑王), a successor of King Gongmin(恭愍王). This study was undertaken to investigate the sources of costume for Banya. The study focused on the features of Buddhist service costume, street wear, and daywear for common women's costume during the prime age of the Buddhist culture. The study looked into Buddhist paintings, old documents, advanced research, and relics. There are three characteristics of historically investigated Buddhist service costume for Banya: Dallyeongpo(團領袍), long Jeogori made with black Ra(羅), and Jeogori with a long scarf. Skirt, under Jeogori, under skirt, Cho, Ra(羅), Neung (綾), Dan(緞), patterned ramie(紋紵), and Tapja(塔子) were included in all Buddhist service costume. And, street wear consisted of Women's Dapho(婦人搭忽), long Jeogori, skirt, underwear and black Ra beil(蒙首). Daywear consisted of Banbi(半臂), long Jeogori, and skirt, underwear made with cheap fabric, Ju(綢), ramie, and imported cotton. Plumper hair, silver comb and Biyeo, lining of light pink-colored thin silk(小紅薄絹), bronze openworked ornament that fixed the outerwear's opening, bronze needle case, Sutra box and heated gemstone could be matched for the Buddhist service costume. Bronze and heated gemstone could be used for ornaments of street wear and daywear. The investigation of ornaments was carried on by referring to presentation of overseas collections. Considering the limitation of the study on Goryeo costume due to the lack of research material, future studies including much more relics in oversea collections needs to be undertaken.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.35
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• pp.135-159
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• 2009

Since the military servants' rebellion, the society of the Goryeo(高麗) dynasty had been getting into crisis worse and worse until late in it. Late in the 14th century, the society was constantly meeting tension and chaos including decline of the Yuan(元) dynasty, sudden rise of the Ming(明) dynasty and etc. This study is aimed to investigate the idea of justice and theory of governing advocated by Yaeun Jeon Nok Saeng, who lived in such tensed and chaotic era. Under the circumstance that threatened the national power of the Goryeo dynasty in the era where the Yuan dynasty changed to Ming dynasty, his idea of justice was expressed as "Theory for Friendship with Ming and Against Yuan", which was proposed in the aspect of considering the safety and maintenance of the nation and getting back the original national power of a country Goryeo. He thought that you should not make your people bothered by or troubled in their works but you should make them concentrate on their jobs for living to govern them eased. He emphasized that you should focus on stability of people's welfare in gentle ways not bothering your people even a little bit because he thought that the situation of that era looked like a thread bobbin so that it could get naturally and easily twisted if you went in hurry.