• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.825-839
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• 2021

This study aims to develop jacquard fashion masks using traditional patterns and investigates the preference and emotions of consumers for them. Nine patterns were designed with the motifs of plum flower, turtle, and geometric patterns using an Adobe Illustrator program. After that, 20 kinds of jacquard fabrics were developed using those patterns, and prototype masks were made. Furthermore, data were collected using a survey of 231 adult consumers to understand the emotional images evoked by jacquard fashion masks with traditional patterns. The results of the research show that the emotional dimension derived from jacquard fashion masks with traditional patterns consists of seven factors: luxurious image, frugal image, feminine image, oriental image, sporty image, geometrical image, generous image. We found that consumers preferred the M6 with the plum flower pattern as the motif as the most preferred design, while M13 with the geometric pattern as the motif was the lowest preferred.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.946-955
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume for developing 'Korean' fashion design can be accepted in general in the modern times. For this purpose, documentary studies about the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art and Korean traditional costume were preceded. And the perception of the Korean traditional costume were studied according to Belong's two criteria, body priority/ clothes priority and open/closed. Next, the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume were re-defined. The results can be summarized as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art are the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. As the beauty of nature is the important one, the purity is caused by the love of nature. The pleasantry is as a way of expression. 2) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume through the documentary studies stand for as the beauty of nature, the purity, the beauty of evil's eye, the beauty of symbolism, the beauty of personality, the beauty of tragedy and the beauty of tradition. 3) Korean traditional costume are perceived as clothes priority and open. 4) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume can be re-defined as the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. The beauty of nature comes from the 'natural' look, the exposure of the fabric as itself and the organic lines of the Korean traditional costume. The purity comes from the geometrical squared clothing form of Korean traditional costume which doesn't revive the human body form. The Pleasantry is seen the colors and motifs of costumes that have the human's hope and incantation and the exaggeration and distortion of human body form.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This study intends to explore the collaborative expression in the modern fashion design by analyzing the collaboration of motifs symbolizing Korean cultural identity. As for the data research, in order to examine the expressional objects of collaboration in the collections of the fashion designers from Korea and overseas who have applied the Korean culture among their collections posted on the Internet sites, www.firstview.com, and www.style.com from 2005 to 2012 were collected for analysis. 923 pictures used in the analysis sheet. As for the research method, the content analysis method was used. In the modern fashion design, the collaborative expression in the motifs symbolizing Korean cultural identity are limited to tangible expression, intangible expression, integrated expression. The results of this study were as follows. First, in the tangible expression, traditional tangible assets are used in the shapes, items, colors, materials, patterns and details to symbolize uniquely Korean image. The intangible expression, the applicability for Korean intangible assets include the master's (intangible cultural assets) and the craftsmanship of the modern designers being collaborated onto the contemporary customs to express the Korean traditional culture in a realistic or an abstract trend. The hybride expression, it is to represent Korean thoughts and values using the tangible elements. Second, The expressivity of collaboration of each year mostly shows integrated expression, intangible expression and tangible expression were shown respectively. The trend of seasonal collaboration expressivity was muchly the integrated expression in most seasons, and intangible expression and tangible expression followed respectively. It is recognizable that the expressivity of collaboration of each designer was; integrated expression was muchly shown in Lie Sang Bong and Lee Young Hee's works, Duri Jung showed much of intangible expression, and much tangible expressivity was shown in Carolina Herrera.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.506-517
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• 2014

A bag is a daily article carried in one's hand or on one's shoulder for things as well as a fashion item. The functions of a bag were derived to include portability, decorativeness, brand identity, message communicability and cultural identity. Souvenir bags sold at a gallery or a museum are goods to maximize the cultural identity of a bag based on national emblems, exhibitions and characters as design motifs. Based on the typological analysis of souvenir bags showing cultural identity, this study developed a design with a motif of Hanbok from Korean traditional cultural content to develop a tote bag design that reveals Korean cultural identity. Under a traditional Hanbok motif colors, sizes and patterns were reinterpreted in a modern perspective. For such a research purpose, 8 kinds of tote bags were developed. A tote bag design that reflects Korean cultural identity will contribute to raising the potential to develop cultural goods that are modern, popular and differentiated in the global market.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.131-146
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to implement the textile design applying the floral pattern shown in Korean traditional fabrics and the New-Hanbok Chulic Dress in 3D through a virtual fitting system. As a research method, first, we analyzed the floral pattern types of fabrics in the literature related to traditional Korean textiles. Second, we developed textile designs of traditional flower motifs using 13 extracted flower types. Third, we applied the floral textile designs to the 3D original form of new-Hanbok Dress produced based on design preference survey results. The findings derived through this study are as follows. First, among Korean traditional patterns, the type of flowers used in textiles were blossom of chrysanthemum, orchid, camellia, apricot, peony, peach, pomegranate, hydrangea, narcissus, lotus, plum, chinese rose, and rosa rugosa. Second, this study found that the value of traditional culture can be further increased by using traditional flower patterns as an infinite source of creative design. Third, it was confirmed that the new-Hanbok can be developed endlessly as a clothing design that combines various morphological modifications and patterns without departing from traditional designs. In the future, if the research on costume design using various items of traditional clothing and the development of textile designs based on traditional culture continues, the development of new clothes design that leads to the development of Korean traditional clothing culture and meets the sensibilities of modern people will be endless.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.214-225
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• 2000

The objective of this study was to investigate images of Korean traditional patterns. The subjects consisted of 369 male and 356 female undergraduate students. The experimental materials used in this study were 48 stimuli and questionnaires, composed of 7-point semantic differential scales of 23 bipolar adjectives. Twelve motifs selected from 3 groups of Korean patterns were used as motif stimuli. Twelve repeated patterns were constructed from them to be applied on a CAD-simulated dress. The data was analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test. The major findings were as follows: 1. Four dimensions were emerged accounting for the dimensional structure of the images of Korean traditional patterns. These dimensions were 'simplicity', 'quality', 'interest', and 'modernity' dimension. Among them, 'simplicity' and 'quality' were the major dimensions. 2. Category, interpretation type, composition type, and application object of motif had significant effects on the images of above-mentioned dimensions. The application object had a significant effect on 'simplicity' and 'modernity' image, and the composition type on 'quality' and 'interest' image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.145-157
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• 2008

Vivienne Tam was born in mainland China and educated in Hong Kong and has worked mainly in New York. Within multi-cultural background, she has shown unique fashion designs where western styles and China esprit were harmonized.. This study analyzed the ethnic look featured on Vivienne Tam's design to identify how she has expressed her ethnic identity into fashion. Photos featuring ethnic appeal among her New York collection from 1996 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed in terms of shape/silhouette, color, fabric, motifs, detail and accessaries. She utilized frequently chinese motifs and patterns such as bamboo, panda, budha, flowers, letters, and masks. Secondly she modified the shapes of Chinese traditional costume like Quipao to render ethnic appeal. Color, fabric and detail like frog and embroidery also contributed to enhance China mood. Comparatively, she used western clothing items including shirts, blouses, skirts, pants, dresses, and coats and maintained the silhouette tight and fit so that most her designs look wearable and westernized.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.19-30
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the tendency of Korean traditional textile studies to review the studies critically and to suggest the new directions. To do this, this study included 164 articles of Korean traditional textile studies published in five Korean major journals from the first issue to the 2009. The identified 164 articles were categorized and analyzed by five areas : study subject, study content, study method, the tendency through times and journals publishing Korea traditional textile articles. The results were as follows. First, in the study subject, the ratio of traditional motifs study was the highest in any other study subject and an actual textile pattern study and society culture historic study were also favored. And, the ratio of foreign textile study was the lowest in any other study subject. Second, in the fiber type of study content, the ratio of silk fiber was the highest in any other fiber type. Hemp, ramie and cotton fiber were followed by silk fiber. Also, the ratio of wool fiber was lowest in any other fiber type. In the weaving type, ratio of plain weave was the highest in any other weaving type. In the times of study, the ratio of the Joseon Dynasty period was the highest in any other times of study. Third, in the study method, the ratio of an actual proof study method was higher than that of literature study method. In the tendency of times, there were society culture historic studies from the time publishing the first edition in each journal, the ratio of an actual textile pattern study, traditional motif study and preservation science study has increased since the 2000. Fourth, in the characteristics of journals, Journal of Korean Society of Costume has published the most articles in any other journal publishing Korea traditional textile study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.5-24
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• 1999

The globalization of Korean beauty comes partly from the succession of korean traditional culture and its modernization will be the one of very important issues in 21st century. This paper was done in order to analyze the process of Korean design development in modern Korean fashion in terms of the succession and modernization of Koreantraditional Beauty and based on this analysis also suggest new possibilities for successful globalization of Korean traditional beauty andbased on this analysis also suggest new possibilities for successful globalization of Korean fashion in 21st century. 227 fashion designs which represent typical elements of korean traditional costume were selected from fashion magazines books SFAA collection books and company brochures published from 1986, to 1997. Content analysis was used with 8 variables including 7 design elements(line shape, color, textile, motif, detail, accessories) and year. Results of analysis showed that the process of Korean Design development in modern Korean fashion has in the use of straight lines and simple silhouettes. Diversity could be found in the application of various kinds of outwear items as well as in the variety of materials and details. Symbolic tradtional motifs and accessories were used to enliven the Korean folklore image, These trends became more salient with the turning point of 1993 when a few designers began to participate in Paris Collection. For successful globalization designers should have more active attitudes toward exploiting the essence of Korean beauty and developing them as modern and global styles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.149-170
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to link the Yi tribe's traditional patterns to bag design. Yi tribe is a minor ethic group in China, whose traditional pattern has a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse and each one has peculiar elegance. Traditional patterns are also indicative of spiritual dept or symbolic stories, rather than being indicative of simple formative beauty. Thus, reorganizing these patterns and applying them artistically to design- in terms of resource utilization- would be significant. Out of all of the Yi tribe's traditional patterns, the cherry blossom_(马樱花), water wave_(水波), sky father and earth mother_(天父地母), pomegranate blossom, triangle, sheep' horn, wisteria vine_(藤条), square and diaper_(四角菱形) and the zigzag_(曲折) patterns were chosen for use during the development of a bag design. This study is based upon document study, including research papers and internet web sites, the point of which was to investigate the form of the traditional patterns, and the creative design process. The design procedure includes these sub-processes: selection, arrangement and color-scheme. In the selection process, the form of the pattern was edited using Adobe Photoshop. The pattern was freely arranged to reflect various emotions. In terms of the color-scheme of the patterns, the colors used by Henri Matisse(1869-1954) in his work were selected and adapted when dyeing the patterns. Subsequently, the final design resulting from these design development processes was applied to the actual production of the bag by using canvas fabric and leather, after which the bag image was proposed using computer simulation. In conclusion, six bag designs were created using traditional patterns from the Yi tribe. Through the processes explained above, this study confirmed that traditional patterns could be widely applied as design motifs and that more sophisticated, modern, and creative designs could be developed based on traditional patterns.