• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.97-110
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• 1992

West African's traditional looms, weaving and raw materials, structural patterning, dyeing and basic forms of dress were examines in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of West Africa, and to make a contribution to the policy planning for export market developing The research method employed was the analysis f written materials. The study was limited to the traditional clothing habit which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) They have vertical single-heddle loom horizontal or ground single-heddle loom, and double-heddle loom. The width of the cloth produced on the single-heddle loom varies about 38.5cm to 123cm and double-heddle looms all produced on the single-heddle looms all produced narrow strips of cloth varying in width from about 1.3cm to 75cm, although the average is about 10-20cm. (2) Despite the relative simplicity of the llom technology a remarkable variety of textiles are produced. (3) The most popular decorative technique in West African compound weaves is extra-weft patterning which is produced on both single-heddle and double-heddle loom by men and women weavers. Other forms of secondary patterning on textiles in West Africa are dyeing, applique, patchwork and embroidery. (4) Two basic forms of dress have spread throughout West Africa, the poncho (bpibpi) and the wrapper. Some versions of these basic forms are supplemented by western inspired trousers, shirts and blouses coupled with accessories usually complete their traditional outfits. They have a great variety of basic poncho, like as Khasa, Gandura, Tuareg-poncho, Babariga, Rigas (agba-da), Grand-boubou, Afteck, Tagua, buba, Danshike etc. Although West Africa has long been in contact with the peoples of the Nile region as well as the Maghreb and Sahara, both the boubou styles and the wrapper styles appear to have developed with a minimum of outside influence. African Islam was the principal agent for the diffusion of the boubou styles.

• 한국농촌생활과학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.207-215
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• 1994

제주도민이 오랫동안 주로 노동복으로 착용해 온 갈옷의 이용 범위를 확대시키기 위하여 현대 감각에 맞는 갈옷의 일상복과 외출복을 고안하여 제작하였다. 또한 감물 염색으로 퇴색된 옷을 재활용하는 방법, 염색방법의 고찰, 감즙 염색에 있어서 재질의 적합성과 다양성 등을 살펴보았다 그 결과 재활용 아동복과 소창을 이용한 개량한복에의 응용은 갈옷 이용 범위의 확대를 시사하였다. 앞으로 갈옷의 단점을 보완할 수 있는 염색법의 간소화와 후처리법의 개발에 연구의 중점을 두면서 갈옷의 장점을 이용하여 용도에 알맞은 디자인을 계속해서 연구, 개발한다면 우리 전통 의상인 갈옷을, 시대에 어울리는 실용적인 의상으로 발전시킬 수 있을 것이다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.23-32
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional indigo dyeing. Leaf powder colorants were prepared by hot air($50^{\circ}C$) and room temperanrre($25^{\circ}C$) drying methods from fresh leaves. The presence of indigo in the leaf powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. All the powder colorants showed broad absorption at 602 nm as same as synthetic indigo. Dyeing was done by reduction method with sodium hydrosulfite and sodium hydroxide. Leaf powder colorants produced blue color on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants prepared at room temperature drying were more stable for long term storage than that prepared by hot air drying. Thus, the powder colorants prepared by room temperature drying was reduced and dyed in one-step process without sodium hydroxide in the dyebath for further investigate dyeing properties. K/S value of the fabric dyed without sodium hydroxide was much higher than one dyed with sodium hydroxide. Regardless of the addition of sodium hydroxide, rubbing fastness was fairly good showing above 4 rating. Fastness to dry cleaning and light of the fabrics dyed without sodium hydroxide were mote higher than that dyed in alkaline condition.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.53-61
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• 2005

With the acceptance of western culture, our traditional culture is in the crisis of disappearing. This is especially evident in the clothing and textile field. Therefore it seems essential to apply the traditional Korean aesthetics to our clothing. The purpose of this study is to reconstruct the types of design and analyse the characteristics of patterns expressed in traditional roof-tile. This study attempted to use the roof-tile patterns as motive for all tapestry and fashion design work to realize a creative expression of formative world through on-screen restructuring. The traditional roof-tile patterns were selected for this study because they must be the products created with our ordinary aesthetic values and techniques, and thus may represent our people's unique culture. After all, the expression for a work should be based not on simple representations of a given object but on restructuring of diverse unique forms according to worker's subjective senses. A piece of clothing with the expression of traditional and formative must combine traditional aesthetics of tradition and form. The application of traditional and formative value of Korean pattern in clothing made to be adaptable for wear in our everyday lives. Today there various attempts to combine traditional aesthetics with modem design. Also, the development of unique Korean design aesthetics within the clothing will allow for a distinct elegance that can be recognized by the world know about the Korean culture through the high standards of our clothing.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.49-57
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress of Bouyei People of Guizhou Province. The resuits of the study ara as follows. 1. Women's dress and adorment can be categorized into three styles. In the Zhenning, Guanling and Puding regions and northwestern areas of Guizhou Province, women usually wear blouses with overlapping necks, batik pleated skirts and long aprons. They also wear embroidered kerchiefs or turbans. In the suburbs of Guiyand City and Southwestern Guizhou Province, women like to wear blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, trousers, blue or black and white check cloth kerchiefs. In the Luoping region, women wear blouses with loose sleeves and buttons arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. 2. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front or arranged on the front, trousers and calottes. 3. Most of their dress materials are white and coloured handwoven, tie-dyed or batik cloth. The exquisite technique of batik and tie-dyeing has a long history, which began to become prevalent in the Song Dynasty. 4. Now, people use all kinds of techniques to make their dress and adornment, including batik, tie-dyeing, cross-stitch, brocade and embroidery, which reflect their peculiar aesthetic temperament.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권7호
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• pp.882-891
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to improve dye effect and method in order to facilitate the use of persimmon juice dyeing. Silk fabrics were pad-dyed to 100% pick-up using padding machine after dipping in persimmon juice extracted from unripe persimmons indigenous to Jeju. The color of dyed silk fabrics by padding method was more even and repeatable than that by traditional hand method. Persimmon juice concentrations were 4 types 10, 25, 50 and 100%. The silk fabrics were pad-dyed to 100% pick-up and were repeatedly dyed two times and three times with 100% concentration. The higher the concentration, the more color deepened. UV Irradiation instead of sunlight was applied to color developing. Irradiation times were shortened to 1-8hrs. Color values which reguired 30-50 hrs. in sunlight irradiation. were obtained in 3-5 hrs. with UV irradiation. Tensile strengths of silk fabrics in UV irradiation decreased but not decreased in sunlight irradiation. Elongations of silk fabrics in sunlight irradiation increased but decreased in W irradiation. Drape stiffness increased up to three times.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.12-20
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• 2007

Four kinds of natural dying solutions (natural colorant extracts)were obtained by extraction from sappan wood, black tea, peony, and clove using water as extracting solvent at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 min with liquor ratio (solid natural colorant material/solvent water, weight ratio) of 1/10. The dyeing, colour fastness and deodorizing properties of fabrics (cotton, silk, and wool fabrics) dyed with natural colorant extracts were compared. It was found that these properties were significantly dependent on the concentration of extracts, the structure of colorant, and the kind of fabrics. The K/S value of dyed cotton fabric increased in the order of peony < sappan wood < clove < black tea, however, the values of dyed silk and wool fabrics were in the order of peony < sappan wood < black tea < clove. Colour fastness (light, water, and perspiration fastness) was in the range of 3 - 5 grade except for sappan wood. The deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with various natural colorants extracts was in the range of 56 - 99%. The deodorizing performance increased in the order of peony < black tea < sappan wood < clove. Especially, the deodorizing performance of all fabrics dyed with clove was found to be the highest at 98-99%.

• 복식
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• 제49권
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• pp.137-154
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• 1999

This study was designed to unify two types -traditional and western- of wedding dress in one and to develop new wedding dress which can be used to wedding ceremony as well as Pae-Bae(Greeting) as an alternative for the modernistic utilization of traditional wedding dress. The wedding dress for a bride and bridegroom was developed to be used not only for wedding ceremony but also for engagement. The children's dress which can be worn for carrying flowers in front of a bride and a bridegroom was also developed. All six dresses two of each for a bride and a bridegroom one of each for a body and a girl were developed from the review of literature and photos to be introduced traditional wedding dress. The results were as follows: 1. The Korean characteristics in the developed dress were expressed well in the curves straight lines oblique lines and cracks. 2. The traditional symbolic meanings were expressed by using the pattern which was on traditional wedding dress. Changes from five original colors -red, blue, yellow, white, black- to pastel colors also could modernize the dress. 3. The Korean characteristics could be effectively expressed in dying techniques and piling -up by using hand-made silk and No-Bang, 4. The children's dress for a ceremony was re-established to modernized design with traditional beauty. 5. The expenses could be saved practically because the dress was developed for wedding ceremony as well as for engagement.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.105-110
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 다양한 천연염색 재료로 염색한 한지직물을 활용하여 모자 두 개와 노트북 가방을 문화상품으로 개발·제작하였다. 그를 위하여 첫째, 우수한 내구성과 기능성을 가진 우리나라의 전통 한지로 만들어진 한지직물을 문화상품 개발을 위한 소재로 선택하고, 둘째, 그것을 천연염색 재료인 쪽으로 푸른 색, 떫은 감물로 갈색, 홍화에 의하여 붉은 색, 황벽으로 노란 색 그리고 자근으로 자주색으로 염색하였다. 셋째, 문화상품으로 개발하고자 하는 모자와 노트북 가방을 디자인하였다. 넷째, 디자인한 모자와 노트북 가방의 패턴을 제작하고, 그것에 따라 다양한 색으로 천연염색한 한지직물을 재단·봉제하여 완성한 두 개의 모자와 노트북 가방을 제시하였다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.270-280
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• 2012

This study examined the dyeing characteristics of five oriental herbs, namely Gardenia jasminoides, Sophora japonica L., Rheum coreanum, Rhus javanica L., Ginkgo biloba L., on fabrics with traditional fermentation using malt. And the properties of Hwangsu (mineral water) of Yeongcheon (Korea)as a mordant in the post-treatment of textile were evaluated. The dyeability and fastness of cotton fabric and silk to light and washing as well as different fermentation periods and temperatures were investigated, and the following results were obtained. The dyeability of the fermented and non-fermented material did not show a significant difference. Fabrics mordanted with Hwangsu generally exhibited a reddish color due to the presence of iron. The dyeing of cotton fabric and silk by fermentation and Hwangsu mordanting were found to be effective on Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum. These results were confirmed through fastness to light 3 of cotton on Rheum coreanum and 3-4 of silk on Rhus javanica L., respectively. The washing fastness of both fabrics dyed with fermented Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum was improved, showing higher K/S value after washing than before washing.