• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.21
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• pp.193-206
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• 1993

Recently in the post-modernism era ethnic look tropical look or ecological look has prevailed as an important theme of fashion all over the world. The main core of these themes is based on primitivism. The purpose of this study was first to com-prehend the internal meaning and the exteral form of primitivism in modern fashion second to compare the characteristics of primitivism in art with those in modern fashion as one of the phenomena in cultural consistency. For this purpose documentary studies about primitivism in social science and art were preceded as a framework of this study and then objective studies about primitivism in modern fashion and art were analyzed. Primi-tivism expressed in clothing since the 16th century was also historically traced. the results were as follows: 1. Primitivism in modern fashion was summarized by emotionality play ecology and aboriginality as well as was represented by ex-ternal forms of open form part-to-whole re-lation planar intergration rounded form and indeterminate form It was demonstrated that the external form of primitivism in art and fashion is quite similar and is an example of cultural consistency. So it is reaffirmed that fashion is the production of culture representing zeitgeist as a genre of art. 2, Modernism in the early 20th century brought the richness of materials through the de-velopment of the mechanical culture emphasizing rationality as well as functionalism, Fashion also has been influenced by this modern-ism so it has tended to express only the beauty which emphasizes the functional aspects of clothing and excludes the decorative characters. The primitivism in recent fashion is against the flow of modernism. In a word the pursuit for the regression to nature and the recovering of hu-manity is the core of the primitivism in modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.189-202
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• 1997

Movie is one of the most popular culture ac-tivities in modern society and the composite rt of science and art born in the 20th century. Movie became the great source of setting the fashion. Especially movie costume brought into relief and was accepted by the mass. As a movie stimulates imitation psychology and identification of the general public in fashion. The purpose of this study is to analyze the effects of the movie costume to a modern mass fashion. The times was defined the movies from the early Silent era to the modern Hollywood movie from the late of 1910 to 1990. The way of study were to analyze on the changes and roles of movie costume through documentary records and the influence of set-ting the fashion to the mass fashion and classi-fied it five times-silent era classics neo-classics new look and modern times. The summary of result is as follows, 1, Movie costume affected the dress and the fashion of women is Silent era. That fashion was accelerated by actors' costumes in the mode of 1920. 2. Holloywood movies in the Classics show the essence of the fashion movie costume played a role of a fashion leader and commanded the trend of mass fashion. 3. Practical style was shown because of the war in the Neo-classics. Movie industry was prosperous after the war. But the consequences of the movie costume to the mass fashion were more and more weaken 4. Couture designer's costume had an effect on the mass fashion in the early of New look. But it was behind the fashion for the rise of young fashion. 5. The tastes of the fashion were diversified in Modern times. So the movie fashion was not imitated or popular. The costume of "Pret-a-porter" was used in the movies in the 1980. Spectators became to wear the same style of the actors. The times fashion and movie interacted each other. Movie costume is playing a role of a fashion leader guiding the mass fashion.s fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.91-107
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• 1997

For the purpose of this study is the re-searcher investigated the concept and background of kitsch and the character of Kitsch in the paintings with focus on the Surrealism and Pop Art. In this study it was focused that how the shapes and materials was expressed in the modern fashion. Surrealism in paintings is lead thoughts and art movement to humanism of be-having man and pursuit of mental sub-stance of human beings expressing un-conscious word and transforming image in new way by the methods Automatism and Depaysements. Pop Art in paintings is used to objects common and cheap in the popular con-sumer's society. That is to say Pop Art sublimated con-sumptional culture of mass as art. And this phenomenon is appeared in the modern fashion which have influencedon the shapes and materials in design. Kitsch's character was researched in terms of shapes materials in the modern fashion with focus on the Surrealism and Pop Art and their aspect are summarized as follows: 1. In he aspect of shapes it appears that the shapes in the modern fashion is that of play through the method distor-tion or modification of dress. It was un-derstood that the cause of the dreaming and fantasy in the childhood. In the aspect of materials it apepears that the materials in the modern fashion is that of exagerated-decoration through using of object which is various asses-sories flower doll etc. 2. In the aspect of shapes it appears that the shapes in the modern fashion is that of disharmoney disorder and unsuit-ableness. The major cause of that is be-cause of Antistandard fashion I the aspect of materials it appears that the materials in the modern fashion is that of sarcasm pleasantness. It was reviwed that the major cause of the wit or humor comes from the image of the masses makes use of such as plastic fun-ny picture can coin etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.981-991
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to observe the cultural phenomenon in modern society from the point of view of pastiche, analyze the characteristics of pastiche, create a framework for studying modem fashion and body ornamentation, one of the facts of cultural phenomenon and, based on these aspects, will observe the pastiche phase, which occurred in body ornamentation of modem fashion in the late 1990's Collections. The characteristics of pastiche is that it transcends meaning, alters the usage of objects, raises the beauty of alienation and pursues temporariness. Observing pastiche, according to its definition and characteristics, as it appears in body ornamentation of modem fashion, the results were as follows: First of all, in terms of transcending meaning, body ornamentation of modern fashion is a mixture of all past styles. Secondly, use of objects in body ornamentation of fashion has shown the use of things which have never been used in accessorizing before, such as birdcages, bones of body, castle. Third, in terms of the raising of the beauty of alienation, accessories from countries, which were not high interest groups in the past, such as piercing, scar, corpulent, are being used as high-fashion accessories in body ornamentation of modern fashion. Fourth, in terms of the pursuit of temporariness, external ornamentation in body ornamentation of modern fashion is seen as permanent changes to the outer body, such as tattoos, piercings, hair color and the more temporary changes, such as coloring.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.165-178
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• 2012

This study researches the form of the Korean jacket point through relics from the Three Kingdoms period that have the traditional Korean style and grace of the Goryeo period as well as the form of the modern Korean jacket starting point. Several conclusions can be drawn from the Korean Image of the Korean jacket that can be classified into types expressed in the jacket style of modern fashion. Therefore, we will analyze traditional elements of Korean beauty through the "Korean image" on how to express it in modern fashion. The purpose of this study is to understand modern design creation and Korean culture. It is important to begin the world through the application of traditional elements to recognize Korean beauty as well as to utilize historical dress based on function and popularity to continue the effort.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.2
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• pp.117-133
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• 2016

Fashion reflects various cultures, including the spirit and the lifestyle of the period. South Korea has experienced rapid social changes, including the Korean War, industrial development, and the inflow of Western influence. Modern Korean fashion has developed along with these changes. Acceptance of suits and the reformism of the Hanbok are the two notable changes in Korean fashion. Gyungja Choi, and her fashion show, is known for combining modern fashion and traditional beauty by entwining traditional Korean fashion design elements into modern fashion. This research investigated Gyungja Choi as a fashion designer, a fashion education executive who cultivated fashion designers through the education business, and a fashion publisher who published the first professional costume magazine. This research classified the Korean-style design elements in Gyungja Choi's fashion show by analyzing the clothes exhibited in her fashion shows. In conclusion, Choi's design utilized Korean-style fashion design elements, such as line, colors, patterns, and materials. Which can be said to be the introduction period that expressed Korean style image in fashion considering the period.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.45-53
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• 2003

Rei Kawakubo is known for her provocative aesthetics: she often deliberately seeks beauty in what is seen by convention as taboo. With her highly informed and invariably provocative aesthetic, Rei Kawakubo has advanced historical forms of dress using radical functional and structural transpositions. She is considered as a pioneer showing firmly important elements of modern fashion design in her works by fashion journalists. In this paper, I'd like to analysis features of modern fashion design through Rei Kawakubo's works. I will analysis important elements of Rei Kawakuvo's design and devote study of the connection between the feature of her design and the feature of modern fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.611-626
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• 2014

Reading and foreseeing fashion trends is crucial and difficult in the fashion industry due to accelerated and diversified changes in fashion trends. We use network analysis to investigate fashion trends from 2004 to 2013 in order to find the inter-relevance among fashion trends. We extracted words from fashion trend info for women's wear provided by Samsung Design Net, created a 2-mode network of seasons and trend languages, and visualized this network using NodeXl program. Fashion trends repeated a unique pattern during the period. In the first half (2004-2008), retro modern, feminine modern, and ecological modern were dominant trends in consecutive order. The years 2009-2013 witnessed distinctive fashion trends in S/S seasons and in F/W seasons. 11F/W, 12F/W and 13F/W seasons were characterized by artistic creative style. From 2010, natural style dominated S/S seasons. 10S/S and 12S/S seasons were distinguished as a calm natural style that reflected a peaceful and simple life. In 11S/S and 13S/S seasons, soft natural style emerged as a sign of increased importance of inner spirit and natural energy. A seasonal reappearance of trends was observed every two years in S/S seasons that enabled the prediction that 14S/S will see another version of natural style. A macroscopic trend for the last 10 years was represented by the keywords 'modern' and 'natural'. 'Modern' involved the past styles such as 60's, Baroque and the origin of human life. 'Natural' was connected with design elements such as material, silhouette and color. Managerial implications and future study directions are discussed based on the results.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.63-79
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• 2012

Modern art is getting more comprehensive and diversified regardless of genre in many forms due to the pluralism and anti-aesthetic trend of the time which is impacted by post modernism. This atmosphere is also applied to fashion illustration which creates synergy effect in cooperation with many different genres. This study selected Matisse' paper cut-out as the subject which would reflect the minimalism and ionism of modern plasticity. By taking this as the motive for fashion illustration, I made seven illustration works with the subject of minimalism of form and color. The conclusion of this study is as following. First, Matisse's paper cut out has controlled plasticity related to the modern ionism and it well fits the modern trend and sensibility which is appropriate for motive of fashion illustration. Second, by upgrading the technique of Matisse' paper cut-out in a modern way such as combination of hand drawing and computer graphic using Photoshop, I was able to make originative and creative illustration works with background and patterns that were closely connected with each other. Third, applying the fashion illustration to other various products is being well received now and I made my illustrations that could lead to follow up studies to apply the fashion illustration to other different products. Matisse' paper cut-our has forms, colors and patterns that can contain both commercial and artistic value. Therefore it is quite feasible for follow up research to apply into many different areas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.153-167
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to supply the opportunity of being used as a material which can predict future fashion. This study had been divided the symbolic meaning into three parts. The first part was the symbolic expressions in the materials of modern fashion, and the second part was symbolic meaning which was expressed in the accessories, and the last part was the symbolic meaning which was expressed in the physical ornament. The results could be summarized as follows. First, among the forms of heraldry were expressed in modern Fashion, were such as animals like a lion and eagle, which evoked the powerful and lively mood. A vegetable heraldry was expressed on a pattern of textile fabric to pursue the beauty of dress, represented female and classical beauty. A inanimate object heraldry was included all natural material that didn't have all lives the world, represented the mystery and intensity of nature as using the design that sets off the idea through color and figure. Second, in the case of being the forms of heraldry used as a mark or logo in modern fashion, it was visualized the fashion of traditional sense, marine look and military look. This mark or logo had important characteristics of symbolic in that the product had a special meaning and function by trade mark. Third, tattos were used to heighten the people's union in the various subordinate cultures. By ornamenting their bodies, they expressed their special identity and consciousness. Tattos represented a unique menas, which effected a mood of fashion.