• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.1924-1934
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• 2009

Mixture phenomena are present in the overall culture due to internationalization in a modern society. A unique feel is required in materials due to the increasing demand for knit wear and there is a need for a strategic plan to achieve this. This study analyzed the appearance frequency and expressive characteristics of mixture phenomena based on selected data from collections related to the mixture phenomena trends in modern women's fashion from 2000 to 2008. Among the mixture phenomena, the mixture of the high and low class cultures had the highest frequency of occurrence and was expressed most often since the expansion of design areas was due to vague high and low concepts. The mixture of sexes showed the sharing of knit wear trends between the sexes with the pursuit of functionality. The mixture of styles showed a tendency to increase since the traditional form was transformed into a mixture of typical styles. The mixture of spaces showed a mixture of old and traditional knit wear patterns from Northern Europe and modern elements. The mixture of other materials showed the partial preceding mixture and the decorative materials that existed beyond it. The mixture of functions refers to the used characteristics of the two items. Imagination will grow and increase the possibility of expressions with the mixture of the other areas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.9
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• pp.1333-1342
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• 2008

This study intended to evaluate the visual sensibility of textiles of knitting simulation through the painting function of SDS-ONE, a computer knitting system, with the use of various fancy yarns for hand knitting. For this study, six kinds of fancy yarns with difference manufacturing style and form were selected: loop yarn, tamtam yarn, fur1 yarn, fur2 yarn, ladder yarn, and tape yarn. In order to create a computer knitting simulation, paint function of SDS-ONE was employed to scan the fancy yarns for hand knitting with a scanner. Then, after the registration of the yarns as data, the yarn was brought in for knitting simulation in plain stitch with 3 gauge. After that a survey was conducted involving 60 female experts in their twenties. Using SPSS 12.0, factor analysis, reliability, Pearson correlation coefficient, ANOVA, Duncan test, and regression analysis were performed to analyze the collected data. First, according to the result of analyzing the visual sense factor, three factors of the 'inflexibleness/ruggedness sense', 'lightweight sense', and 'smoothness sense' was extracted. According to the result of analyzing the visual sensibility factor, three factors of the 'activity', 'grace', and 'purity' was extracted. Second, With regard to preference and purchase intention, the knitted fabric with tamtam yarn(H2) was preferred than the other samples, indicating that the respondents had intention to purchase it. As for word-of-mouth intention, H2 ranked the first place, implying the respondents had intention to recommend it to other people. Third, the examination of the use of products each knitting simulation knit found that sweater and muffler are the most appropriate knit products. And H2 was the most suitable sample for sweater and muffler products. This study tried to prove that knit textile can be visually evaluated through a computer knitting simulation without the actual knitting and then to provide accurate data to related companies or the academic circle.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.12 no.10
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• pp.19-25
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• 2021

This study contains the results obtained after two and a half years of developing a knitting customization website using a knitting machine. Recently in the fashion world, various services using customization are being provided, and devices that users can design directly using knitting machines are being developed. However the existing website for knitting machine does not provide a certain usability or layout, so it is difficult for users to use open source and custom design. Therefore, this study was conducted for the purpose of developing a website that provides ease of use to users who will use the knitting customizing service using a knitting machine. As a research method, the first usability evaluation was conducted by synthesizing the studies conducted for the knit customization website development work. As a result of the study, found the problems of the initial custom screen and the initial output screen were found, and convenience, intuition, and readability were improved. Secondary usability evaluation was conducted on the modified website and it was confirmed that the problem was corrected. Through the website finally derived from this study, it is expected that the new platform in the domestic knit market will be popularized and the usability of the custom website will be improved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.8
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• pp.1167-1176
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• 2000

운동화 안감으로 사용되는 부드러운 천연 가죽의 내부 구조 및 쾌적성과 유사하게 개발한 3종류의 편성포에 관하여 수분 전달 능력을 비교 측정하였다. 편성포 표면에 이면으로 땀액의 이동성을 측정하기 위하여 새로운 실험 절차를 고안하여 측정한 결과, 편성포에 가한 압력은 수분 이동 능력에 영향을 미치지 않았다. 그러나 편성포의 기모가 있는 표면과 기모가 없는 이면의 수분 이동 능력이 달랐고, 3종류중 한 편성포에서는 표면의 기모는 수분전달을 저하시켰다. 표면은 기모, 이면은 평편조직으로 두껍고 무거운 편성포의 수분전달이 가장 좋았고 이 편성포와 같은 조직이면서 두께와 중량이 적은 편성포는 수분전달이 감소되었다. 수분이동 능력을 향상시키기 위하여 편성포의 섬유와 구조를 고려할 때 기모량은 중간 정도이고 기모된 표면을 수분에 접하도록 하는 것이 바람직하다. 이렇게 함으로서 더 효과적인 수분 이동이 이루어져서 피부 표면에서 땀증발이 좋았다. 이 연구에 사용된 실험 방법은 편성포의 수분 이동 체계에 관한 이해 증진에 기여할 수 있다고 본다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.420-432
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to survey the present women's golf windbreaker market to develop the trendy product with supplementing design and functionality by grasping the inconvenient part through the result of the questionnaire. According to the questionnaire, 38.1% said that the armhole is the most inconvenient part by tightfitting. Therefore, a mobility of wearer was enhanced by giving shirring detail to the armhole for flexibility through inserting the elastic band with a regular interval around armhole in the design1. The swing movement was allowed to be convenient by attaching knit to the side panel. And, the sleeves were designed in the detachable form so those are allowed to be produced in two kinds such as long sleeves and short sleeves. In the design2, a zipper was inserted from the neckline to the armhole so it is designed a detachable bolero. Furthermore, it was designed to be possible to wear two different way as a jumper style and a vest style. Given wearing a vest, the sleeve part was patched knit, thereby having enhanced activity. The design1 and the design2 evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment. Assessment group consists of 5 subject groups and 10 expert groups to evaluate external appearance and movement adaptability. In the external appearance evaluation, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than design2. In the movement adaptability evaluation, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than the design2 for all of the items except the wrist area. In the group of professionals, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than the design2 for all of the items except the bottom area.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.17-25
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• 2006

We performed the objective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics with knitted fabrics as basis, knitted five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yams made by different twisting methods(the amount and direction of twist) then, measuring mechanical properties in the use Kawabata Evaluation System, obtaining hand values and total hand values. The results are as follows: First, A(F)/W acrylic/wool spun knits obtain high scores in bending, compressing, shear properties, MMD, and thickness among five kinds of acrylic-blended knit fabrics. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knit represented prominent values at compressing properties and thickness and so wool-blended yams demonstrated superior characters comparing other blended yarns. To contrast, acrylic/rayon blended knits showed low scores in bending properties, shear properties and thickness, so that it affects to total hand values. On the one hand, among the four kinds of acrylic filament knitted fabrics, they do not exhibit any notable dynamic differences such as tensile properties of knitted fabrics by the twist number and direction of filament yarns, bending, shear, compressing properties, weight and thickness except surface properties. Second, fabrics showed the most high score at FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) among the hand values. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knits obtaining the lowest values at SAHRI (crispness) outrank at total hand values, so that it was the predominant knitted fabric in objective sensibility evaluation. In total hand values, five kinds of acrylic blended knits got a higher score than four kinds of acrylic filament knits, and the amount and direction of twist did not influence on total hand values among the four kinds of acrylic filaments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.10 s.200
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• pp.153-171
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develop a system by which the tensile properties of knitted fabrics can be applied. In this study, 3 different conditions of tensile property were tested on 8 sample fabrics with various stitches and stretch ranges. The subjects were five women of age from 18 to 24 years showing average body figures. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows: The tensile properly of 12gf/cm was considered as appropriate for applying into the pattern alteration in the case of moderate stretch(course, $25\~35\%$) or over samples. However, for the stable stretch(course, under $20\%$) fabrics, such as Milano rib stitch, a tensile properly of 20gf/cm was regarded as more valid.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.270-282
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to inquire into lounge wear and Jeff Koons and to design lounge wear in which the works, Balloon Dog(1994$\sim$2000) and Hanging Heart(1994$\sim$2006), of Jeff Koons was applied. The concept of design was appealed as sensuousness, activeness, and comfort. The target of design was teens and those in their 20s. Knit or woven fabric in 100% cotton/silk and cotton blended was selected. The design had fitted silhouette and the items were bras, panties, pajama pants, shorts, robes, slippers etc. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for the design. In the lounge wear in which Balloon Dog applied, main color was red, blue, and green with pale tone and frills and pleats were selected for the details. Elastic blended fabric was used for the comfortable. Variety application of color and patterns were conducted for rhythmical visual. In the lounge wear design in which Hanging Heart applied, main color was also red, blue, and green with pale tone. Halter neck and robes were selected for the sexy looking. Cool and soft feelings were pursued through use of cotton and silk blended fabrics or stripes patterns. The result of this study may give valuable information to merchandisers and designers who develop lounge wear. It may also provide designers who use computer program such as Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop as design tools with useful examples.