• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.813-827
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• 2006

In this investigation, the following study was carried out for an experimental proposal of the knit item lists which were not actualized due to lack of studies. First of all, we have put the knit item titles that have been used through the document investigation, into the lists in order to clarify the original item list. Furthermore, we have pointed out the problems and the areas to be developed in the original item lists, and proposed twenty new knit item lists. By defining the design traits of each item, we have established item list which could be classified more systematically. As a result, the knit item titles of twenty newly proposed item titles are knit pull over, knit pull over top, knit top, knit t shirt, knit shirt, knit polo shirt, knit blouse, knit vest, knit hood, knit jumper, knit jacket, knit coat, knit cardigan, knit ensemble, knit cape, knit shawl, knit bikini, knit one-piece, knit pants, and knit skirt. Secondly, in order to investigate the possibility of practical use of twenty knit item lists proposed by this study, we have applied anova with repeated measurement for foreign fashion collection knit item trends of the past 10 years based on the proposed item lists. As a result, four items classified as top, shirt, cardigan, and pants had similar changes in the trend for last 10 years in S/S season while eleven items classified as pull over, pull over top, blouse, vest, jacket, coat, cardigan, ensemble, cape, shawl, and one-piece had similar trend changes for F/W season. The first significance of this study is on the experimental proposal of knit item list which could be used in the actual clothing industry and academic field. Furthermore, by defining the design traits of each knit item, it sublated the confusions brought by vocabularies in design of knit products and distribution in the industry perspective, and it made it possible to categorize the knit items correctly in knit design analysis and knit design education in academic field. The second significance shows that this study brought about positive results in the possibility of industrial academic practical use of proposed list by indicating that most of the knit designs appeared in the foreign collections in the past ten years could be correctly classified through investigational analysis.

• 복식
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.99-116
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• 2003

Knit is classified into two such as basic texture and applied one according to knitting principle, and the basic texture of weft knitting consists of single knit. rib knit, purl knit and interlock knit. The basic texture of warp knitting consists of double knit texture, double code knit texture and double vandyke knit texture. Fourteen costumes were produced with eighteen (18) different types and twenty four (24) raw materials, and we were trying to show a wide range of costumes produced with knitting by making two different brands at random and making different designs depending on four seasons. Knitting technique is very important element in that it allows special surface effectiveness and decides the characteristic of knitting materials. Knit designer plays very important roles such as selection of raw thread, deciding knitting technique and type of knitting machine in designing the knit. Therefore, the knit designer requires the ability to utilize the function of knitting machine to the maximum, the effort to acquire the variety of knitting technique, develop the new knitting technique and for the improvement of knitting design.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.43-51
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• 2007

This study analyzed the knit wear trend, which has gained attention as a sensuous and luxury item, through collection magazines, and used the technique of hand-knit to produce and present the knit wear that was designed based on the study results. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to raise awareness of the expansion of hand knit's new expression techniques and expression areas and to verify its possibility as a higher value-added product. The trends of hand-knit wear resulted from the analysis of collections divided into the following four groups, and the knit designs were also grouped accordingly: First was "The design using object." The trend survey showed the results that the form of drops or flowers was often used as a factor of object. Accordingly, as for the study design, the drop-knitting technique, which is one of the pattern knitting techniques, was used to present a design that employed drops as the object. Second was "The design matched with woven material." It is a way to emphasize aesthetic formativeness and at the same time to activate the area of knit design by matching woven material, which is different from knit in texture, with knit. This study presented a design that tried to combine knit texture and woven material by connecting denim material with various textures and colors. Third was "The design to express see-through." A sense of showing through knit wear was expressed through changes in the type of thread or knitting technique. In this study, the sense of see-through was expressed using piano wires and wool threads and through changes in the thickness of needle. Fourth was "The design to emphasize coloring." It was analyzed that regarding the production of hand knit, the method of coloring expression was to express points, lines and sides or to create harmony by changing the material's color or texture to show particular objects or shapes. In this study, a jacket was designed using the method to express points, lines and sides by changing the material's color.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.104-117
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• 2015

Recently, the fashion industry has been integrating with The IT industry in order to develop in various ways. This study looks into ways to utilize the 3D CAD system, which would reduce time and cost while producing samples, and strengthen the communication between the brand and its cooperators by deploying knit designs using Knit CAD system's 3D virtual clothing program. The research method was reference, Internet resources 3D fashion CAD system and 3D Knit CAD system. Based on the data, simulation of the complete design of 4 deployed knit designs was done by using 3D virtual clothing program of the Knit CAD system utilizing knit design elements. One of each design element among the virtual clothing designs was chosen to produce real clothing, and the experts did verification on the appearance assessment of 3D virtual clothing knit designs of the Knit CAD system. As a result, 3D virtual clothing knit design of the Knit CAD system proved itself as an efficient system in terms of time and cost.

• 복식
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• 제55권8호
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• pp.127-143
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• 2005

This study provides a classifying framework in the modern knit wears, helps to have better understandings of the comparative differences between hand-knit skill and machine-knit skill in terms of the intrinsically characteristic values, and grasps the tendency in their applied techniques based on the characteristics. The comparative characteristics in modern knit wears are produced according to the used skills. The work completeness with which the clothing can be sublimated into the level of artistic phase is given in craftmanship-knit techniques. This makes it possible to design a rare one, and therefore provides a wider range of availability in clothing. The technical traits in craftman-ship-knit are identified as disassembly, specialty, decorativeness and rarity, and the different skills are employed by the characteristics. On the other hand, the differences are not used in ma-chine-knit wears in the way the craftmanship-knit type utilizes by the trait and, instead, the ma-chine-woven fabrics with a machine tool are taken on the whole. In the flow of fashion modes, the characteristics of machine-knitted wears are found remarkably in the modernized contemporary designs seeking for activity and functionality with the use of materials, colors and details minimized. And those trails are characterized as formality, simplicity, functionality and popularity. The comparison in knitting techniques is made in such a way of disassembly and formality; specialty and simplicity; decorativeness and functionality; and rarity and popularity.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.43-53
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to show inherent and differentiated beauty by designing costume knitwear using Dancho patterns representing peculiar beauty, thus expressing free and convenient knitwear in the modern sense for women with the image of reasonableness and elegance, proposing knit design using high-class materials for satisfying the demand for the highest. With regard to expression technique of works, I selected computer Jacquard method to indicate effective comparison effect of expression material and made expression with $12{\sim}14$ gauge as base by using computer knitting machine. Through above-mentioned research process and design using Knit CAD system, I obtained following conclusion. First, it is possible to express variously and widely traditional patterns by making the most of the beauty of the orient and by recomposing the patterns of plant patterns representing "feminine image". Second, it is possible to widely represent the sense you can feel from knit by expressing variously diversity of knit structure and Jacquard knitting structure and gauge. Finally, it is possible to express designs more freely and imaginably by using computer Knit CAD system instead of actual knitting of various knit expression technique and materials application.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.127-138
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• 2002

The recent fashion trend of knit wear is now changing to the various fibrous color combination which emphasizes the plain texture. It supports the human body curvature which is influenced by the slim style of woven wear. In this research work, the general characteristics and knit wear fashion trend are studied. The metallic fiber and fancy yarn are used widely as fiber materials for knit in nowadays. However, the light and functional materials are preferred. The general characteristics of knit which gives the feeling of light and warm are still prevailing using pure wool, kid mohair, and mixed wool with polyester. In order to provide the soft touch feeling, smoothness of fine fiber, and feeling of sponge, several kinds of finishing techniques such as bulky, felting, bonding, and quilting process are usually adopted. The knit wear fashion trend is mainly consisted of the basic design items, and it gives the feeling of luxurious and elegance. The more youthful feeling is adapted for the general style of knit wear of the certain target age. The woven wear trend such as season color, line and pattern are applied in knit wear trend in recent days.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.837-842
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• 2010

This study examines the dyeability, light fastness, washing fastness, and antibacterial activity of chitosan and nano silver composite knit fabrics dyed with extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn. The results show that ${\Delta}E$ values of chitosan and nano silver composite knit fabrics were higher than cotton 100% knit fabrics in dyed condition with extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn, and mordant treatments influenced the chrominance change. Chrysanthemum indicum Linn confirmed that this could be a polygenetic colors. ${\Delta}E$ values of post-mordant treatments knit fabrics were higher than pre-mordant treatments knit fabrics in dyed condition with extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn., and mordant treatments method influenced the chrominance change. The dyeability of chitosan and nano silver composite knit fabrics was increased by mordant treatment. The fastness of the chitosan and nano silver composite knit fabrics was better than cotton 100% knit fabrics. In the result of antibacterial activity, the bacterial reduction rate of chitosan and nano silver composite knit fabrics was 99.9% to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권10호
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• pp.1633-1643
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• 2009

The knitwear industry requires ways to satisfy a changing environment. This study suggests a knitwear design process using a knit CAD program. Such a process needs to implement a CAD system that develops a sufficient knit design system to advance the knitwear industry in both planning and manufacturing. In order to contextualize this research, this study reviewed the current state and problems of the knitwear industry and the market, and investigated the actual condition in which the CAD system is used in knit design by CAD system service providers. The findings of the study are as follows: First, All brands had individual ways to reduce the amount of lead-time. The knit designers pointed out that any given sample product is made in the form of a swatch; after the knitting step and prior to the manufacturing process. In women's wear brands, basting was inserted into the production process in order to reduce the amount of sample losses. Second, a CAD program enables the uses of swatches to see the adequacy of yams, textures, and style that simulate the completed style. Third, this study examined the efficiency of knit design process conducted by the knit design CAD system based on expert assessments, showing that the use of a knit CAD program in commercial knit design proved to be more efficient than in previous models.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.93-100
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• 2018

This study comparatively analyzed the changes in the dimensional stability and the mechanical properties of stretch knit fabrics associated with washings conditions in order to determine the most appropriate washing method. Polyester and spandex knit fabrics were washed 25 cycles with nine washing condition profiles that controled detergent, hardness. temperature and RPM. The knit fabrics with repeated washings were evaluated by dimensional stability and measured by the KES-FB system. Polyester and spandex fibers have good chemical resistance. However, the changes in the dimensional stability and the mechanical properties were observed in washed knit fabrics. After repeated washings, the knit fabrics washed in an alkali or neutral detergent had good dimensional stability compared with the knit fabric washed in functional detergent. The washed knit fabrics were extended, stiff, rough, and had a smaller volume. The changes were the result of the rearrange of polyester fibers which twisted around spandex core and chemical interactions involving the detergent and the physical and mechanical forces of washing. Especially, using an alkali detergent resulted in increased stiffness and roughness of the knit fabric. In conclusion, the washing in water with low hardness and a neutral detergent can minimize the changes in dimensional stability and mechanical properties of polyester and spandex knit fabric.