• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.8
• /
• pp.1288-1300
• /
• 2006

Glamour in fashion, which stands for attractive physical feature with certain mystique, has been used without accurate analysis thereof. This thesis is purported to provide comprehensive study of glamour in fashion and to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the basis which can be utilized in the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the study on the glamour in fashion, and to conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials. The glamour expressed in the fashion design can be classified into the following six aesthetic values: luxury, excess, masquerade, appropriation, sensuality and decadence. In the modern history, glamour looks in fashion design started out as so-called Blooming Age Glamour Look, dating from the late nineteenth century to the late 1920s, which was represented by luxurious haute couture style of courtesans. Thereafter Golden Age Glamour Look appeared in the movie costumes in the Hollywood from the late 1920s to mid-1950s. Sensuality, decadence and masquerade are the central features. Subsequently, Pop Age Glamour Look appeared with fashion styles of pop stars, which can be characterized by appropriation and excess. In the 1980s and the 1990s, Glamour Renaissance Look appeared as glamour looks which were spread out to people in various classes, which is characterized by luxury and appropriation. Based upon the foregoing historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour derived from Blooming Age Glamour Look, (2) hyperfeminine glamour derived from Golden Age Glamour Look, (3) kitsch glamour derived from Pop Age Glamour Look, and (4) romantic glamour derived from Glamour Renaissance Look.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.18 no.4 s.62
• /
• pp.195-204
• /
• 2005

This study was peformed to systematize the concept of taste being recognized as new cultural values, as well as to ascertain the looks and aesthetical values presented in modern fashion in terms of taste. Taste is the life style being pursued individually, a preference and the important factor that characterizes each individual among contemporaries. In particular, the fashion is an important means able to differentiate respective tastes. The taste-based looks including; the dandy-look, the kitsch-look, fetish-look, the grotesque-look, and the kidult-look, etc. are reviewed as cases. Those are well expressing the phases of each times. The looks reflecting contemporaries' various tastes, are symbolic means showing the positive expectations on the present and the future. The looks are unifying fashion and society, and the designers are able to be key roles satisfying customer's taste by presenting of their collections. It is expected that the outcome of this study may provide academic basis of the tastes and a framework of interpretation of the tastes and fashion looks within culture by the aesthetical values presented as fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.8
• /
• pp.1427-1438
• /
• 1997

The art plastique is the part from which designers draw their inspirations to create fashion design. Many designers look for their inspirations from Art Plastique. Since the early 20th century, lots of designers led by Paul Poiret drew their inspirations from Art and co-works with artists. The direct involvement of those artists helped to position Fashion to be an art. Also, these co-works brought the mass media's attention and commercial profit. The most prevalent relationship between the fashion design and art plastique is the reproduction of art such as the 1960s 'Pop Art printed on T-shirts, which can be seen easily todays. After World War ll, art was popularized in a new society where young generation played a major role. Pop Art having image of the freedom and the rejection of tradition was considered as the major trend of 1960s. This study considers reflection of anti-traditionalism, anti-elitism and popularity as the kitsch of Pop. That is the attraction which youth culture looked for from Pop Art and the reason that 60's avast-garde cloth could position itself into the masses. Therefore, this study examines the influence of the kitsch of Pop and the expression of parody upon the major changes in 1960s fashion from which are the mini-look and women's trousers wearing. This study examines Andra Courreges who led 1960s Mini look and Yves Saint Laurent who introduced Pop dress, Smoking look and transparent blouse to find the way which makes it possible for avant garde fashion to have a close relationship with the public and to position itself to be a art.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.147-158
• /
• 1999

The Purpose of this study is to comprehend the form of Post-modernism in 1980~90 Fashion by comparing to the representative form of Modernism. For empirical data, photographs and critics about fashion were collected from Vogue fashion magazine to differentiate from other studies which is mostly analysed from collection. The results are as follows: The Modernism in fashion can be epitomized simple and functional form as a rational costume and Post-modern fashion expresses all sorts of emotion as a react of rational theme of modernism with manners of anti-formal pluralism such as pastiche, parody and Kitsch. The fashion in 1980-90s in Vogue expressed as follow :1) The Postmodernism is well exploited around 1990 and costrained by traditional and classical Mode. 2) The other main character of Postmodernism, romantic eroticism is broadly expressed with material and slim curved body conscious line. 3) The Modernism and Postmodernism coexisted in the end of 1990, in more matured format.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.3 s.56
• /
• pp.469-480
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the meaning and the value of the cultural collage expressed in men's fashion. As for the research methodology, literary research was under taken to study psychoanalytical and socioeconomic contexts in which cultural collage has been formed. In addition, demonstrative studies in men's fashion were undertaken through the analysis of pictures. The cultural collage is defined as a phenomena of making creativity by combining cultures which have no relevance. In psychological and sociological aspects, the rise of the cultural collage is caused by multinational corporation, pluralization of identity, information society, consumer oriented production, consumer society and inundation of kitsch. On the basis of the characteristics and social backgrounds of cultural collage, the aesthetic values of men's fashion can be explained by pluralism de-generalization and relativity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.8
• /
• pp.904-912
• /
• 2003

This study for‘Head Image’, which is affected by individual Image, is via fashion collection to analyze formative feature, fashion emotion and meaning structure of emotion and to inquire into correlation. I will offer fundamental data, which is can use Image making from the state of thing. First, to make charm and personal image, if we consider Head image well, it will very effective by the reason that personality and charm operate as important factors in fashion sensibility of Head Image. Second, we can know Head Image has more strong influence the part of emotion than fashion sensibility by showing that the sense of emotion is higher than this point of view of fashion sensibility in Head Image. Third, As a result of the correlation of fashion sensibility and emotion in Head Image, personal Head Image is effective to attract public gaze by causing negative emotion, and attractive Head Image is effective to give pleasant feeling by causing positive emotion. Forth, Avant-garde, Punk, Kitsch Image were estimated as the most personal things and Romantic, Ethnic Image were estimated as the most attractive things of the type of Head Image. Natural Image was estimated as the most feminine thing, and Elegant Image was estimated as the most mature thing. Fifth, when we look into the different appraisals between experts and amateurs about fashion sensibility and emotion of Head Image, a selection of experts are used to peculiar and strong Head Image, so amateurs respond it more sensitively and highly evaluate.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.1
• /
• pp.115-132
• /
• 2023

The globalization of Korean culture has spurred a steady increase in the participation of domestic fashion designers in global performance art. This study analyzes the formal elements of stage costume designs by fashion designers, and further evaluates the impact of these designers' aesthetic philosophies on overall performance. This analysis seeks to provide a foundation for the development of new directionality in performance art, with an enhanced competitiveness derived from diversity and creativity. The scope of this research spans 15 performances and eight fashion designers' works in the post-2010s era. These performances are characterized by their break from traditional artistic norms, illustrating the modernization of the performing arts and reflecting the designers' aesthetic philosophies. This modernization incorporates inspirations drawn from a diverse selection of movements, such as fusion, culture clash, kitsch, and minimal avant-garde. As a result, in combination with a pure reflection of the designers' aesthetics, these designs heighten overall performance, suggest a new direction for traditional performance art, tap into a popular sensibility to expand communication to a wider audience, and push the boundaries of tradition through artistic innovation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.38
• /
• pp.369-392
• /
• 1998

In order to identify and describe the central core of fashion desire, the concept of“anti-aesthetics”and“open fashion”were analyzed based on the discourses of postmodernism dis-cussed in the field of sociology, culture, art and philosophy. In this paper, first, the new perspectives of fashion related to modernism and postmodernism were proposed, open concept, anti-aesthet-ics which is ephemerality but eternal ideology. Key principles of postmodernism as anti-aess-thetics mean the philosophy of nihilism proposed by Nietzsche indeterminency, the endd of original art(the death of art), the sublimity provided by Lyotard, and the pluralism to release human from the closed way of thinking, value, ideology. Second, the old and classical definition of fashion,“the differentiation of class”proposed by Veblen and Simmel has been changed into the“differentiation of taste”in postmodern condition. Third, the dichotomous system, that is, ration vs emotion, soul vs body, male vs female, culture vs nature, and so on has been deconstructed and disolved in the postmodern fashion phenomenon using the technique of anti-formalism, such as pastich, parody, bricolage an kitsch for the expression of sublimity and freedom of human.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.28 no.5
• /
• pp.692-704
• /
• 2020

The aim of this study is to select MLMA and Noen Eubanks as representatives of Gen Z's unique subculture 'E-girl' and 'E-boy' to analyze fashion images and determine their meaning through the perspective of persona. To conduct this study, a literature review and case studies were combined and fashion images of E-girl and E-boy appearing on social media were analyzed to identify the personas they expressed. A case study of MLMA and Noen Eubanks' Instagram and TikTok account posts showed that grotesque, kitsch, and gender-related images stand out. The digital personae demonstrated by E-girl and E-boy fashion images were demonstrated to be a strange persona that reject perfect beauty and a playful persona escaping from reality and anxiety. Lastly persona of individual identity was shown to be formed. This study provides a basis for understanding and interpreting Gen Z's culture and aesthetics that will lead to future trends. Based on this study, I hope that various studies on E-girl and E-boy apparel will be conducted, and that by understanding the importance of E-girl and E-boy culture for Gen Z (which is paying attention to fashion trends), this can be used as a marketing strategy to consider their characteristics, with data used to inform design development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.2
• /
• pp.98-112
• /
• 2014

Since 2010, Goth styles have risen rapidly in prominence as one of the major trends of fashion. This study intends to understand the Goth style shown from the modern fashion by examining its historically formative characteristics and internal meanings of the Goth style. With mystic attitude toward the medieval Gothic culture, Goth style refers to its reproduction over the cultural circles including music, literature and arts. From the result of the historical review, the formative characteristics of the Goth style may be divided into darkness, distortion, memento mori and bricolage. The historical review of the Goth style contains symbolic meaning of mystery, terror, escape and theatricality. After 2000, Goth style, in combination with factors such as postmodernism and human desire, has been established as the main trend of modern fashion, going with the popular culture. The formativeness of modern Goth fashion is the same as that of Goth style examined from the historic review. However, in modern Goth fashion, the symbolic meaning has the processes of the new: unconsciousness, kitsch, overthrow and popularity.