• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.174-179
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• 2001

This study investigated the effect of aftertreatments such as using the softener or starch on the mechanical properties of knitted fabrics. The mechanical properties of fabrics, hand value(HV) and total hand value(THV) were measured and calculated by the KES-F system. The main results are as follows: The values of tensile energy(WT), coefficient of friction(MIU) and geometrical roughness(SMD) were increased by softener but decreased by starch treatment. However, the values of tensile linearity(LT), bending(B, 2HB), thickness(T) and weight(W) were increased by starch but decreased by softener treatment. Tensile resilience(RT) was increased not only by softener but also by starch treatment. It showed that the levels of FUKURAMI, NUMERI and SOFUTOSA were increased by the treatment of softener and the levels of KOSHI and SHARI were increased by the treatment of starch. Total hand value(THV) was lower in fabric with starch treatment than fabric with none treatment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권7호
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• pp.987-994
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• 2000

Cotton fabrics were finished with mixture of BTCA and silicone by pad-dry-cure process to achieve better mechanical properties than those of finished with BTCA alone. The changes of mechanical properties o( finished cotton fabrics were measured with by the KES-FB System and the hand values were calculated from the data of mechanical properties. With the durable press finish with BTCA tensile, bending, shear and compression properties increased. In hand values, Stiffness Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness increased, and Fullness & Softness decreased. Whereas silicone treatment reduced bending and shear properties and improved tensile and compressional resilience. Thus, Stiffness Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness decreased, and Fullness & Softness increased. These results indicated that BTCA treatment restricts fiber/yarn mobility in the fabric structure due to crosslinking, but silicone treatment reduces inter-fiber and inter-yarn frictional forces. Therefore, finish with mixture of BTCA and silicone provided cotton fabrics with a lower Stiffness, Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness and a higher Fullness & Softnesss than finish with BTCA alone.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.101-105
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• 2005

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these loom characteristics using KES-FB system. The paper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yarn and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yarn by projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.765-771
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• 2004

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these looms characteristics using KES-FB system. Raper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yam and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yam by rapier looms such as FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and PICANOL-GTX respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.792-800
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• 1996

The shape retention finishing provides a fabric for easiness of no-ironing after laundering. In spite of the obvious importance of the new finishing treatment, few systematic studies have been performed on the handle of the fabrics finished by the durable press process. The purpose of this research is to investigate the relationships among the mechanical properties, durable press conditions, primary hand values and the total hand value of the fabrics finished by shape retention process. In this experiment, durable press grade of unfinished fabrics decreased below 2.5, but those of finished fabrics maintained above 4, but the mechanical properties of finished fabrics did not change significantly after laundering. In finished fabrics, D.P. value were correlated with mechanical properties, but had little effects with H.V. and T.H.V. Since the evaluation of the effect of durable press process was done with the naked eyes and standard sample, we could not know exactly change o( mechanical properties, but trace the change of mechanical properties which gave influences on the durable press effects by using KES-FB System.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.61-67
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• 2001

In this study, the fabrics were woven with worsted grams of Nm 2/72 and the structure of 5 harness satin on rapier and air-jet loom with different weft insertion mechanism and then fabrics were finished in the same processes. Also the physical properties were measured with KES-FB system and discussed with the characteristics of looms for comparing the difference of physical properties of the worsted fabrics which were woven with two different looms under the same structure. Pot shearing and compression properties, then showed similar behavior and the fabric finishing processes were seemed to affect much more than the difference of the loom types. For the surface roughness, the rapier fabrics showed higher irregularity than the air-jet fabrics.

• 감성과학
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.157-168
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• 1999

슈트용 직물을 대상으로 직물이 스치는 소리를 재현하여 이를 녹은하고 FFT 분석을 통하여 얻은 음향 스펙트럼을 기초로 음색을 정량화할 수 있는 요인을 개발하여, 음색 요인과 KES system에 의해 측정한 직물의 물리적 성진 간의 관계를 고찰하고자 하였다. 직물 소리의 음향 스펙트럼을 기초로 하여 최고 음압과 최저 음압의 차이인 ΔL과 최고와 최저 음압에 해당되는 주파수 간 차이인 Δf, 총음압 LPT의 세가지 요인을 음색 요인으로 정하여 각 직물의 음색 요인 값을 추출하였고, KES를 이용하여 각 직물의 17개의 물리적 성질의 수치를 구하였다. 세 가지 음색 요인과 직물의 물리적 성질 간의 상관관계에서 ΔL은 직물의 인장 회복력과 두께와 유의적인 상관관계를 Δf는 직물의 인장 선형성화 전단성질, 압축에너지, 무게와 유의적인 상관관계를 보이며, LPT는 최대하중시 신장성, 인장 선형성, 인장 에너지와 유의적인 상관관계를 보이는 것으로 나타났다. 세 가지 음색 요인과 직물의 물리적 성질 간의 단계별 희귀관계에서는 LPT가 직물의 물리적 성직(EM, MIU, RC, LT)에 의해 가장 잘 설명되는 것으로 나타났다. 이와 같은 결과를 바탕으로 본 연구에서 시도한 절량화된 음색은 직물의 물리적 성질과 유의한 관계를 가짐을 확인하였다.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 1994년도 추계 학술발표회
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• pp.11-11
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• 1994

A new theoretical fabric shear model has been presented and a quantitative study has been conducted on the shear properties of polyethylene(terephthalate)(PET) fabrics of four different fabric densities and five different weight reduction. The fabric shear properties were measured with KES-F handle measurement system. From the theoretical and experimental studies, following results can be summarized : 1) The fabric shear behavior is strongly dependent on the fabric density and free volume available for the constituent yarns and their filament. 2) Shear hysteresis at the small shear angle(2HG) is dependent more on the yarn tensile properties than on the fabric structure. 3) Shear hysteresis at the shear angle, 5(2HG5) is dependent more on the interaction between two crossing yarns which is directly related on the fabric structure than on the yarn tensile properties.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.119-128
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• 1998

Nonwoven fabrics for diaper coverstock were treated with chitosan solution by pad-dry method. Two chitosans of different molecular weigh(Mw) with similar degree of deacetylation(DDA) were used: Mw 1,800(chitosan oligomer, DDA 84%). Effect of chitosan treatment on the mechanical properties was investigated using KES-FB system. Primary hand values were calculated from mechanical properties using the same equation as the men's suiting equation with minor modification, and total hand values were calculated using new KN-5LNW equation for nonwoven fabrics developed by Kawabata et al. Increase in chitosan treatment concentration increased B, 2HB, WT, LT and RC, and decreased WC continuously. Chitosan treatment affected other mechanical properties regardless of molecular weight. Considering primary hand values obtained from mechanical properties, it was found that chitosan of Mw 180,000 and chitosan oligomer provided softer, smoother, and more bulky at below 0.05% and above 0.5% treatment concentration respectively. Samples treated with 1.0% chitosan oligomer solution, and 0.01％ chitosan solution of Mw 180,000 showed the best total hand values. (Korean J Human Ecology 1(2):119∼128, 1998)

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.182-187
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• 1999

The study was conducted on the change of value of physical properties, mechanical properties, appearance of seams as repeated washing and drying with 1, 3, 5, 7, 10, 15, 20 times. Commercial cotton 100%, cotton/polyester 80/20% and polyester 100% dress shirts were used to investigate drying characteristics and physical properties and compare of each materials after repeated drying. The mechanical properties like tensile, shear, surface, compression, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-FB system.