Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.27
no.8
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pp.969-980
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2003
The aim of the study is to develop a jean jacket and pants of easy-to-move for schoolgirls of 11 years old. The research was carried out as follows; 1. Using a manufacturer's pattern, a jean jacket and pants were made. 2. Based on the survey of 108 schoolgirls, interviews with 4 designers of children's wear, and wearing test, three trial garments were developed. -Certain areas such as knee, elbow, and hip should be altered to have better extensibility. -The weight of the garment would be better to be reduced. 3. Three trial garments were developed using following techniques, which were found in fashion magazines for kids very often. -Alter the location and the shape of the seam line so that the areas mentioned above can adjust the movement of the body better. -Match stretchable material at the areas which require better extensibility. -Use various trimmings to make the garment more size adaptable and easy-to-move. 4. These garments were tested by 26 schoolgirls, and they answered the questionnaires focused on the design preference and easy-to-move. 5. From the results of the wearing test of three trial garments, more effective techniques were selected. Using these techniques, prototype garment was developed. The prototype garment was approved by the wearing test of 26 schoolgirls.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the style and the color of jacket, the style of shirt, and stimulus-manufacturing method on men's image perception. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used, and the experimental design was $2{\times}2{\times}2{\times}2$ (jacket style${\times}$jacket color${\times}$shirt style${\times}$stimulus-manufacturing method) factorial design. Computer simulation picture and photograph were used for stimulus-manufacturing method. Subjects were 377 women in the metropolitan area of Seoul. The data were analyzed by using factor analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$-reliability coefficient, and three-way ANOVA. The men's image derived five dimensions by factor analysis; neatness, ability, activity, individuality, and sociability. Tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in ability, individuality, and sociality than jumper with jean pants, and jumper was evaluated higher than tailored jacket in activity. The indigo jacket was evaluated lower in individuality in the picture stimuli than in the photograph stimuli. The beige tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in activity than indigo tailored jacket. However, the indigo jumper was evaluated higher in activity than beige jumper. Dress shirt under the tailored jacket was evaluated higher in ability and individuality than T-shirt under the tailored jacket. T-shirt under the jumper was evaluated higher in activity than dress shirt.
This research was focused on jean jacket and jean pant design characteristics in the collection. To offer a basic proposal for the development of jean jackets and pants, pictures of fashion web pages from 2007 to 2011 were used, and data were analysed by the usage of the frequency and percentage of the SPAW Statistics 18. The results of the research were as follows. Men's jackets were mainly medium in length with a tetragonal silhouette and simple detail. On the contrary, women's jackets were mainly of an X silhouette, short in length, and with varied details. Men's jean pants were mainly represented by a straight, comfortable silhouette while women's jean pants were characterized by a variety of silhouettes, fit, and lengths.
To analyze recent changes in designer-specific garment composition, detail, and design elements of jackets, we classified jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S to 2019 F/W according to their designers and examined their characteristics. Our analysis of the jackets by Armani, Chanel, Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Valentino shows that the hour-glass silhouette was most common in Armani, Chanel, Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Valentino jackets; Chanel used more straight silhouettes compared to other designers. Most jackets, regardless of the designer, had midlength waist-to-bottom, tight sleeves fitted to the body, natural shoulder shape, and solid color. Moreover, woven fabric was the most common material. Jackets with no collar were the most common for Armani, tailored collars for Dior and Jean-Paul Gaultier, and standing collars for Chanel and Valentino. For the closure method, Armani used hook-and-eye, Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Valentino used button closures, and Dior used snap closures the most. New design attempts by designers are bringing details and design elements together. In an era characterized by an abundance of designs and frequent replacement of each brand's creative designers, it is important to create and maintain a brand's unique design identity and philosophy that can meet consumers' elevated standards, which tend to be biased towards new and stimulating designs due to the development of the IT industry.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.33
no.6
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pp.990-1001
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2009
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of perceiver's gender, clothing, and hairstyle on the visual evaluation of men's professionalism and preference. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used. The experimental design was a $2\times8\times2$ (perceiver's gender $\times$ clothing $\times$ hairstyle) factorial design by 3 independent variables. The stimuli were 16 photographs of a man in his twenties. The upper clothing of the man included tailored collar jackets in beige and dark blue colors, and jumpers and sweaters in beige, dark blue, and red colors. The lower clothing of the men included jean pants. Two types of the hairstyles included short hair and medium length hair. The subjects were 208 men and 223 women in Seoul, Korea. Wearing a beige sweater with jean pants was evaluated high in intellectual image, a red jumper was perceived low in intellectual image, and a beige tailored collar jacket was evaluated low in potent image. Men's short hairstyle was evaluated to be more professional than the medium length hair. Male perceivers liked short hair more than medium length hair, but female perceivers evaluated both hairstyles similarly. In the case of women, the preferences of tailored collared jacket and soutien collared jumper were similar, but jumper was preferred to jacket in the case of men. Male perceivers showed more positive feedback towards jean pants with soutien collared jumper than jeans with tailored collared jacket, which indicated that men showed more conservative attitude towards the outfit than women. The man who was wearing a jumper with short hair was evaluated positively and the man who was wearing a jacket with medium length hair was evaluated negatively when the attires were coordinated with jean pants. In conclusion, medium length hairstyle with a beige jacket and short hairstyle with a red sweater were evaluated as professional image; and the results indicated that clothing and hairstyle interact with each other and influence the evaluation of professionalism.
This research aims to design a new style jacket by developing patterns with dart manipulation, to achieve a tailored jacket which has been familiar to us, but with a more creative design. Tailored jackets has been widely worn both by women and men, and used to create various fashion styles. Generally the classic design with a basic lapel and collar is worn the most, and this shows demonstrates an importance of its design. Giacomo Manzu's work of relief art inspired for a creative design of tailored jackets. As a result of the analysis on the visual properties of the relief sculptures, it was found that an omissions of line for cubic effect and dramatized expression give an illusion effect. Based on the illusion effect shown in the case of a relief design, it was patterned and designed with dart manipulation. Through dart manipulation, the shape of a lapel was designed to meet the rear collar, which corresponds to a background plane, by making it like a sculpture at the front background pattern. Then it was found through dart manipulation could be extensively applied for various designs, as well as used to generate massing. Hopefully this creative pattern and design development would be helpful not only in diversification of consumer's needs, but also in the educational field for pattern and development of the fashion design industry.
A solar jacket, which utilizes solar energy for generating electricity, is an example of clothing developed by the fusion of multiple technologies; such fusion of technologies can lead to further developments in the clothing industry and other industries in general. Many research institutes and garment manufacturing companies in Europe and America are developing solar garments; various solar-based products manufactured using solar cells, photovoltaic batteries, etc. are being sold at high prices. The purpose of this study was to investigate the development status of solar garments and their application for generating photovoltaic energy; the study also identified the type of design and upper body clothing preferred by Korean in their early 20s. The survey participants were 188 university students aged between 20 and 25. The design of the proposed six types of solar clothing was evaluated and rated; they were then ranked on the basis of the ratings. A survey on the management of solar garments was conducted, and ratings were assigned according to a 5-point Likert scale, with 5 indicating the strong affirmation. The survey results showed that among the six types of clothing, protective clothing (50%) and sportswear (22%) were more preferable than the others (working clothes (16%), casual clothes (3%), everyday wear(6%), and suits(1%)). Among the six proposed designs, the jumper design (22%) and jean jacket design (21%) were preferred over the others (casual jacket (19%), casual jacket I (15%), classic suit (14%), and climbing jacket (9%)). Factorial analysis of the management of solar garments revealed that the most important factors were the properties of the solar cell and time required for battery charging, and the second important factors were clothing weight and comfort.
Sustainable fashion & textile is more than eco fashion & textile with the concepts for the next generation's happiness, prosumer value, and community responsibility. This study considers methods to enhance fashion and textile industry sustainability in accordance to clothing types (material, product life and washing properties) and to investigate company strategies. Company strategies are of redesign with stock, volunteering & measuring trash amount, participation by evaluation stores, clerk environment education, hiring QC specialist and reinforcing partnerships. For the case of daily innerwear, throwing away and recycling is more efficient for the environment than laundering in the consumer use stage; subsequently, we recommend the use of polypropylene fiber (a cheap and an eco-friendly material) for this item that can be recycled and reformed after use. For the case of single layer clothing (such as sportswear, blouse or pants) we recommend the use of thermoplastic materials with welding or fuse assembling technology instead of a sewing method of seams as well as the recycle design that is simply melted and reformed into new clothing without an after use dissembling process. Secondhand use or resale is suitable for denim/jean items if the clothing has a storytelling or private history tag. Lastly, module-type jacket or coat shows the variety of styles with one clothing worn w/o collar or sleeve details and changed into vest/coat; in addition, it is possible to add or partly tear off some jacket/coat fibers of the felt material to reform it into a new design.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.11
no.2
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pp.85-98
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2009
The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yo tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery pattern has a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse and splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yo tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and design patterns through related books, research papers, internet sites, and etc. The results of the paper are as follows. The Yo tribe's costumes consist of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the color of the costumes is all black, there are splendid embroidery decorations with the colors of red, orange, yellow, green and white on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs, or a part of a trousers and aprons. The types of the patterns represented in the Yo tribe's traditional costumes are related to nature, ancestor worship, ethnic legends, history, religion, and agricultural lives. The method by which the Yo tribe expressed on their costumes is a "peach-blossom" technique, which uses cross-shaped embroidery with wrap and woof threads. Because it is not apt to express delicate and detailed patterns, the Yo tribe's patterns tend to show abstract and geometrical forms.
Opera costumes are a tangible medium to directly affect how opera singers performed. Therefore, stage costumes have been designed in various ways to reflect intentions of directors. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust" which was played in Sung-Nam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the supporting actors are drawn from this study. Martha wore a grey jacket and a long skirt with slash. Grey suit symbolized chastity but tight long skirt with slash means sexy. Valentin wore military and combat uniforms to express that he was a soldier. The military uniform represented the situation before the war and the combat uniform symbolized the situation after the war. Rather short trousers, a white tweed jacket, purple flower ornament, a light green vest, and a beret were used to express Wagner, who looked ridiculous and always tried to flirt. Overalls, a blue jumper, and a scarlet baseball cap were used to make Siebel look naive and homely. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency and meet the audience's needs for various style.
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