• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.113-127
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to search the spiritual root of decoration and anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings of the decoration culture inside contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japan. decoration culture 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the decoration culture 3. finding esthetically the inside meaning of 1.2. in contemporary Japanese fashion. First, the origin of decoration culture was concerned with the belief in the life after death of the Buddhism culture to represent the noble society of the Heian(평안) period and the religion of paradise after the Middle Ages. Second. this decoration culture based on two aesthetic ideologies, beautiful(염) aesthetics and lofty(숭고) aesthetics. The beautiful aesthetics implies words, such as bewitchment, elegance, dignity and brilliance which stand for the sensual pleasure and the eroticism. The lofty aesthetics that was introduced by TakeTakasi(장고) during the Heian period, had the meaning of magnificence, greatness and dignity. This could be recognized as the Confucianism ideas. Third, as the beautiful aesthetics that was the representative aesthetic ideology of the decoration culture, it was related to splendid and decorative designs, and was recognized as the beauty of brilliance and coquetry. The beauty of brilliance, as a decorative element, appeared in patterns of the traditional costume and dyeing as well as the beauty of coquetry indicated that the women's fashion in Japan had soft, feminine, and cute images, called Hawaii, by using various decorations, such as feminine details, flower patterns. ruffles. ribbons and so on. TakeTakasi's lofty aesthetics applied the beauty of exaggeration to every art form. It has influenced the form exaggeration by overlapping in traditional costumes as well as the 1970s big look and layered look in Europe fashion. Issey Miyake and Takeda Kenzo introduced the decorative play, such as transformation and a distortion, which considered refinement, bluff, and oddity of the Japanese decoration art.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.5
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• pp.11-22
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• 2011

This study aimed to suggest more appropriate and accurate festival costumes based on a comparative analysis on various reproduced costumes and a period review of traditional festival costumes. In particular, the comparative analysis examined festival costumes which appeared in Korean and Japanese festival parades during the Baekje Period. The Baekje Cultural and Sacheonwangsawasso Festivals were examined. A literature review as well as field research and digital restorative techniques were used in the study. The reproduction patterns of Baekje costumes from both festivals were compared with original Baekje costumes, demonstrating several differences in the configuration, material, color, and shape of the costumes in addition to the way they were worn. Based on the comparative analysis, Baekje costumes used in Festivals were grouped into three categories: King's Costume, Queen's Costume, and Government Official's Costume. Dress sketches and 3D illustrations also have been presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.45-54
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• 2009

The reform of dress regulation in Kapshin(甲申衣制改革; 1884) was the first dress renovation in 8 years after Chosun's port opening in 1876, and the key contents of that reform was the simplification of the formal dress and private dress. The reform in the culture of the traditional costume should require some kind of special experience because that culture had been regarded as the precious symbol of the Confucianism. The purpose of this study is to investigate the background of "the reform" and who proposed "that reform", by contemplating the costume and the thought of costume of the ambassador extraordinary(修信使) and the Inspectors detached to Japan(朝士視察團) who experienced new costume system of Japan sent by Chosun Dynasty. For this study, historical documents such as 'Sillok(實錄)', a sort of report("修信使記錄", "聞見事件") were reviewed and the evidential photos in Japan were analyzed. It can be summarized as follows. First, Kim Kisu(金綺秀, Susinsa) in 1876 and Kim Hongjip(金弘集, Susinsa) in 1880 wore the traditional costume of Chosun in Japan, and described the westernized Japanese costume in view of traditional costume culture. Second, the inspectors detached to Japan in 1881 showed the same attitude to the Japanese costume as the previous Susinsas had done. Third, Park Younghyo(朴泳孝), who was an ambassador extraordinary and plenipotentiary(特命全權大使) in 1882, experienced western style in Japan and played an positive diplomatic activities with western nations. It could be guessed that those changes in the attitudes of the diplomats might have the relationship with the change of Chosun, which began a treaty of amity between western nations after 1882. Afterwards, Chosun seems to have decided to reform the system of traditional costume into the simplified one in 1884, proposed by the diplomats who experienced foreign culture abroad including Park Younghyo(朴泳孝) and the mutual agreement in Chosun Government.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.110-122
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to suggest a direction eco-friendly material based fashion products may pursue in the 21 st century in order to protect our environment. This is done by considering the knowledge of the products by housewives, the main consuming players in a household. 398 copies of the survey were collected amongst Korean and Japanese housewives in the 30s and 40s aged group sample and analysed using SPSS 12.0 statistic program. The analysis results are as follows. First, base material was highly knew by Koreans in contradiction with Japanese who were highly knowing the disposal process in regard to eco-friendly fashion products. Second, a higher ratio of Koreans tended to purchase the product with consideration of health issues, however quality of the material was considered more by Japanese buyers. Finally, the result showed that eco-friendly products buyers from both countries had more willingness to purchase eco-friendly material based fashion products than non-buyers in the future. Korean housewives showed more interest in environment, benefit to health and value from eco-friendly material based fashion products than Japanese. Koreans had a better understanding of information and knowledge of the product, as well as higher future purchase intention however, Koreans considered less durability, design and variety of products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.35-44
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to comparatively analyze the characteristics of traditional costume colors of Korea China Japan with quantitative methods. The range of this study was limited to the costume colors from 16th to 19th century. For this study 1333 color samples were collected by measuring with a spectrophotometer. The results of this study are as follows: Red, Yellow Red, Yellow and Purple Blue had been used in common for the traditional costume colors of Korea, China and Japan. Yellow of Korea, Purple Blue of China, Yellow Red of Japan showed the high frequency. Red, an asian preference color, had most frequently used in korean traditional costumes. Pale toned Yellow and Yellow Red, high saturated Red and low valued Purple Blue had been preferred for korean traditional costumes. The preferences of high saturated Red and low valued Purple Blue were based on the Five Element theory and the pale toned Yellow and Yellow Red were used with the preference of White and natural colors. In China the traditional costume colors had used with the Five Element theory also but they had preferred Purple Blue, deep & strong toned Red to Yellow Red and Yellow, Yellow Red, Purple and grayish colors had been frequently used in japanese traditional costumes. In the results of color distributions in $L^*a^*b^*$ color space, korean and chinese traditional costumes colors concentrated in some areas like Yellow, Yellow Red, Red and Purple Blue. Japanese costumes colors showed the even distribution with the diverse toned colors. Korean traditional costume colors corresponded with the Five Element theory rather than China and Japan. Japan had used the costume colors with the racial sensibility rather than conceptual color theory.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.33-44
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the roles and costume of Sodong as shown in the illustration of Choseon Delegation to Japan. Results of the study can be described as below. First, as shown in the illustration, Sodong played roles as Tongin and dancer. As Tongin, Sodong provided services or made errands for his seniors. In the other role, while, Sodong danced to comfort his seniors and show dances of Choseon to Japanese people. Second, Sodong wore Kwaecha over Sochangeui throughout his march with the delegation as Tongin. This is probably because the two clothes made him feel convenient and easily active. In both 1700s and 1800s, meanwhile, Sodong also wore Jikryeong and Cheolik. Third, Sodong wore Kwaecha over Sochangeui, or Danryeong and Nansam all the time when he navigated together with the delegation. When passing through Tsusima into the Japanese mainland, which meant starting international exchanges between Choseon and Japan, Sodong sticked to formality to the utmost by wearing Danryeong and Nansam. Fourth, Sodong wore Kwaecha over Sochangeui when he performed as dancer. The two clothes were also worn by Mudong during outdoor banquets in Choseon at that time. In addition, it is thought that Sodong wore Jikryeong, Danryeong and Nansam like when he marched or navigated together with Choseon Delegation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.96-107
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• 2012

In ancient times, immigrants from Baekje wore various kinds of costumes that provided technological and aesthetic guidance for the Japanese costume, which has been modified and changed in Japan. The clothing and ornaments were strongly influenced directly by costumes of the Baekje period; therefore, many of the Japanese costumes at that time were crafted in the Baekje style. Through the antique records, paintings of tombs and bequests, we were able to find similarities between Baekje and Japan costumes in these categories: clothes, headgear, belt hooks and belt plaques, bronze shoes, and ornaments. (1) Clothes : They wore high-shaped hat and jacket and trousers(;袴) tied the bottom. (2) Headgear : There was a gilt bronze Conical Cap attached to the long tube with terminals in the shape of a hemisphere. (3) Belt hooks and belt plaques: There were horse-shaped belt hooks in mane styles and a checkered pattern on the lower part of the haunch and a belt Plaque shaped like the face of an animal. (4) Gilt bronze shoes: They were made with the style that had two side plates fixed in the instep side and heel-side. (5) Ornaments : They were made with flower-shaped plaques and spiral-shaped decorations. One earring was made with a three-winged pendent that were connected in a chain style and the others were in unique forms that were made by connecting narrow rings and a heart-shaped pendent.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.17-31
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• 1997

The Heian Period(794-1192) was the period when luxury and elegance flourished. Gorgeous colors were adopted for the costumes and an el-egant assortment of colors prevailed. Representatiove of such costumes is kasane-no-irome. The world Kasane-no-irome originally came from two colors on both sides of one of the japanese kimonos called Uchiki. In later times it turned to indicate the combination ef-fect of colors of several Uchiki's worn in layers one over the other. This paper describes in de-tail the kasane-no-irome in both meanings. In so doing I distinguish two different kinds of kasane-no-irome using a Chinese character for the formed and for the latter though both are pronounced Kasane in the Japanese language. Part one of this paper which concerns the color combinations of presents typical 148 samples through reproduced dyeing clothes by Matumoto. Part two describes the color com-bination of which was so called Junihitoe. It presents typical 41 samples from reproduced dyeing clothes by Matumoto. The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics of color distribution and the structure of color combination in Kasane-no-irome. Therefore we obtained the following results in Kasane-no-irome. 1. The color combination of Kasane-no-irome came from the natural color harmony there-fore the names of kasane-no-irome which adopt the names of flowers and leaves of the foure seasons. Accordingly the seasons for wearing them are fixed. 2. In the hue the most frequent appearance was green. And in the tone the most frequent apperance was moderate. 3. In the color combination the most fre-quent type were monochromatic combination and contrast combination.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.826-834
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• 2003

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture and a phase of the cloths in the relationship of the Chosun dynasty, by considering the exported goods from the Chosun dynasty of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the Chosun dynasty-Japan relationship in the 15th and 16th. The research findings, by analyzing various literatures and related documents, follow. The research results are as follow. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. The imported goods were somok, peppers, drug-stuffs, gold, bronze, sulfur, etc. The exported goods were books and cloths, such as hemp cloths, cotton cloths, silk, etc. The majority of exported goods was cloths, particularly cotton cloths. Meanwhile, in the 15th and the 16th century, with expanding of active trade towards Japan, the amount of export increased rapidly. As a result of the increase of exporting cotton cloths, the raw cottons production was increased and cotton cloth manufacturing was developed. However, it also expanded a dual structure of cotton cloths between the cotton cloths for exports and the cotton cloths for domestic markets. This dual structure of cotton cloth was lead to the deterioration of cotton cloths and had an effect on the price increases of domestic markets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.87-102
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to identify conceptual constructs of well-being consciousness and appearance management behaviors, and to examine the effects of these two variables on attitudes toward Korean herbal cosmetics for Korean and Japanese consumers. A survey was carried out among female consumers between the ages of 20 and 50, and a total of 500 responses were analyzed by descriptive analysis, reliability test, t-test, and confirmatory factor analysis, structural equation modeling and multi group analysis. The results of this study were as follows: 1) The result of CFA and the reliability test on well-being consciousness and appearance management of Korean and Japanese respondents clearly showed factorial structures on each of the variant assessments. 2) In regards to the well-being consciousness, Korean and Japanese respondents highly tended to perceive well-being as a benefit to the physical health and an eco-friendly lifestyle respectively. In the area of appearance management, Korean and Japanese respondents had similar patterns that showed high scores of skin care and weight control. Both Korean and Japanese consumers showed favorable attitudes toward Korean herbal cosmetic products. 3) The consumers' well-being consciousness revealed to have positive influences on appearance management behavior. Both well-being consciousness and appearance management positively influenced attitudes toward Korean herbal cosmetics. 4) As a result of MGA, the well-being consciousness had more positive impacts on Korean respondents' attitudes toward Korean herbal cosmetics than the appearance management variable when compared to the Japanese respondents. On the other hand, appearance management had more positive impacts on Japanese respondents' attitudes to-ward Korean herbal cosmetics than well-being consciousness when compared to the Korean respondents. These results suggest that differentiated marketing strategies for Korean herbal cosmetics are crucial when targeting Korean and Japanese consumers.