• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2015

From the 1920s to 1945, East Asia experienced radical social change with the introduction of new fashion styles, and new ways of thinking, from the West. The emergence of a new generation of "new women" educated in modern schools was part of this phenomenon, and functioned as a trend-setting influence in East Asian society. In schools, education in dressmaking, sewing, and home economics were important parts of female education. Adopting a new fashion style is, by necessity, accompanied by the new technology of dressmaking. Given that ready-made clothing was not generally available, dressmaking education also served to introduce a new material culture. In Korea and Taiwan under Japanese colonization, the greater part of school curricula and textbooks mirrored those in Japan, which enabled these countries to develop and adopt transnational styles as well as local styles. This research explores the transition of women's fashion in East Asia in modern and colonial conditions from the 1920s to the 1940s by analysing curricula and textbooks on dressmaking in comparison with the prevailing styles in each region. This is expected to suggest the impact of modernity in East Asia and the transnational styles of fashion in colonial Korea and Taiwan, as well as Japan, developed within the local culture. Colonial conditions are also discussed in terms of their impact and limitations in the transition of styles.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.259-266
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• 2017

In a contemporary fashion along with the advance of high technology, development of a new material is being increasingly emphasized and the need of creative convergence using a computer is being expanded. As a global designer who appeared through association between Japan and the West, Issey Miyake has been continually pursuing a new challenge and a solution using high technology, leading the globalization of Japanese fashion. This research aims at examining design characteristics of Issey Miyake collection's A-POC showing a new paradigm, that is, an innovative clothing manufacture system to input information on materials, colors and shapes into a textile machine based on the computer program and manufacture a cylindrical fabric for completion of seamless clothing without sewing or cutting. A-POC is evolving continually through the development of new materials including recycled fibers and organics together with diversification of processing technology. Besides, it shows design characteristics including an integrated manufacturing method, autonomy for customers' selection, practicality for comfortable wearing by the majority, environment friendly idea to reduce waste of fabrics and materials and a new presentation through convergence of exhibition concepts of modern art. This research on Issey Miyake's A-POC characteristics is expected to present a role of fashion designers in a new design idea and paradigm of contemporary clothing using high technology.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.14-31
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• 2022

Worn by both males and females the kimono is the national dress of Japan. Previous research highlights that this national dress is fading from tradition and evolves to develop with the times and fashion trends. This research aims to investigate what a kimono represents both historically and currently within Western society. The idea of the kimono being more than a national dress representing Japan, the main three themes researched will be (1) Shape (2) Narrative (3) Journey from East to West. Based on both primary and secondary sources this research indicates that there is a strong relationship between the universal increase of kimono wearers in Eastern and Western societies from history through to present day. Primary research is utilised in the form of two types of interviews. Primary outcomes bring a personal perspective to how and why kimono is worn nowadays within Europe. Secondary sources include online lectures held by kimono specialists as well as subject relevant books. From the 19th century where the Dutch were the only European country to trade with Japan, an exchange of fabrics took place which later led to the exchange of: fit, fashion and pattern (primarily within Western womenswear fashion.) This distinct garment never gets discontinued and evolves with social demands within society today.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.75-95
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• 2023

This study aims to investigate the color characteristics and utilization of Amekaji fashion in the domestic casual market, with a focus on menswear. A total of 1,882 color data were extracted from 11 representative brands of Amekaji. This results of the study showed that PB, Bk, YR, and Y colors were highly utilized in the overall color, and dkg, g, ltg, and p tones were highly utilized. In particular, R color was highly utilized in the point color, as it was developed into six tones, including v, with high saturation. The analysis by the brand showed that the highest number of colors were extracted from 'Kapital', which is famous for its vintage-style patchwork and dyeing, and that 'PB' and 'Bk' were heavily utilized. By the item, PB colors were mainly utilized for denim, and shirts were diversified with 9 tones. W, a neutral color, was mainly used on clothing tops such as shirts, knits, and T-shirts. This study provides valuable insights into the color sensitivity of Amekaji fashion, which can be used as a useful resource for design development and product planning in the industry. As a future study, we suggest analysis of the utilization of Amekaji colors in the Korean men's casual market along with American and Japanese brands.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

Based on the trend of pluralization and globalization the collapse of national borders now is a manifestation of mixed and compromised cultures and societies. It is also emerging as a hybrid fashion in fashion. Hybrid fashion means creating a new image by mixing various cultures beyond the time and space. This study aims to analyze the current state of Chinese fashion design and present its direction by grasping the characteristics of hybrids in the works of rising Chinese fashion designers in the era of pluralization. The research method was literature review and empirical research. According to the selection criteria of new fashion designers, 6 new fashion designers of 5 fashion brands were selected and their total 458 points works were analyzed. The analysis results are as follows. First, most of the time trade-offs were 'past and present' trade-offs that express Chinese traditional culture and the image of the past with modern design. The trade-offs between 'present and future' is expressed by mixing print patterns, colors and light with fractal art. Second, spatial trade-offs was expressed in the way of expressing Chinese themes in the composition of western clothing, expressing the Western themes in oriental colors, and inspired by Japanese culture expressed by deconstructionism, Third, the gender mix mainly used dark embroidery on women's clothing, while the men's wear showed a delicate feminine charm with a surreal pattern on thin and transparent gauze fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.73-85
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is for considering about Zen fashion in the point of view of culture transition. Through this research, the Far-East including Korea will be confirmed as a center of fashion culture in 21st century. The contents are the meaning of culture transition in Post Modern period, the meaning of Zen and changing of fashion trend as the background of Zen Fashion, and the characteristics of Zen fashion design. The results are as follows: Anti-western movement or dismantlement of culture has been represented the limitation of western centered culture. So the interesting about East means the changing to east from west in ideas. To make new creation in fashion field, the comprehension about the western fashion which has been preceeded and new trials using the our tradition will be needed. Zen is a kind of Buddhism and the essence of it is to find myself and express individual experiences. The change of one's sens of value, new age movement and concerning of environment and ecology make more comfortable, simple and healthy elements in clothing. The fusion style is under a vogue in life style and Zen is the core of this trend. The characteristics of Zen fashion are flat dismantlement which has been know as a Japanese style, oriental minimalism and nature beauty of ecology. This characteristics are found not only the shape, color but the will of the behind. The pursing temperance and naturalism are represented the fashion culture transition from the West to Far-East. Therefore multi points of fashion research is very important and the identify about Korean fashion is required in lately for new fashion paradigm.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.669-680
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• 2008

Korea's national image can be delivered through cultural products, and cultural products can finally contribute to the affirmative attitude and recognition towards Korea. In an empirical study, a questionnaire was developed based on literature review and focus group interviews with foreigners who visit Korea were executed. Subjects of this study were foreign visitors from US, China, and Japan. Finally, a total of 247 copies were used for analyses. Descriptive analyses, factor analysis, regression analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, and paired sample t-test were conducted for data analysis, Results are as follows. Firstly, as a result of factor analysis, I found that there were seven factors to form the image of Korea; culture/art, openness, lechnology/quality, food culture, passionate narcissism, conservativeness, and pursuit of quality of life. Secondly, Several image factors were found to influence positively or negatively on their attitude toward fashion cultural products. Especially, culture/art factor was found to influence positively to Chinese and Japanese and lechnology/quality factor was found to influence positively to Japanese and American. Meanwhile, conservativeness factor was found to influence negatively to Chinese. This study will be of help to practitioners of the fashion cultural product industry for building marketing strategies whose target market is foreign visitors from different cultural backgrounds.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.606-612
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• 2013

This paper investigates the physical properties of organic cotton staple yarns manufactured by ring and siro spinning methods as well as analyzes the physical properties of fabric specimens knitted with staple yarns made by these two methods. The breaking stress and evenness of organic ring staple yarns showed the same level for the Japanese specimens as the control yarns; in addition, the same coefficient for the friction of the manufactured yarns and Japanese specimens was also shown. These results makes it possible to manufacture organic staple ring yarns from organic cotton fibers. The tenacity and breaking strain of siro staple yarns were higher than ring staple yarns. The evenness and friction coefficient of siro staple yarns were lower than the ring staple yarns; in addition, hairiness and the number of siro staple yarns was significantly lower than the ring staple yarns. The dimensional stabilities of knitted fabrics by 20 Ne and 30 Ne siro staple yarns were superior to ring staple yarns. The color fastnesses of washing, perspiration and abrasion of knitted fabrics by two spinning methods showed the same level as the 4.5 grade; however, the light fastness of knitted fabric by siro staple yarns was superior to ring staple yarns. It was shown that the siro spinning method (using eco-friendly organic cotton fibers) was applicable to a high sensible knitted garment that overcame drawbacks of organic fibers related to shrinkable properties after washing and low color fastness to light.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.22-29
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• 2008

In this study, it is investigated the types and the compounding method of flower patterns and the uses of flower patterned fabrics in Chosun Dynasty. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing during 16-17th century. Our ancestors had used the various flower patterns based on Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism onto the fabrics. The flower patterns on the fabrics were expressed with the other patterns such as treasure patterns, letter patterns or bird patterns. And the flower patterns symbolized the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. In the order of the percentage, the types of the flower patterns were shown Lotus(27.31%), Arabesque(26.85%), Japanese apricot(14.81%), Peony(8.79%), Flowering plants(6.94%), Chrysanthemum(6.01%), Pomegranate(2.31%) patterns and so on. Especially the Lotus pattern was shown up most frequently. That of shape was designed as blooming(開花), full bloom(滿開) and the side of flower(側面). By the compounding method, the compound types mixed with the other patterns were used much more than the individual types composed by its own pattern. The flower patterns were used a lot in Jeogori(Jacket) regardless of the ganders and in men's Po(coat) including Cheollik(天翼), Dappo(胡), Jeonbok(戰服), Dahnryoung(團領), etc. Also contrary to these days, the flower patterned fabrics had come out in the shrouds. Judging from these facts, our ancestors wished that the meaning of the immortal life was included in the flower pattern.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.93-108
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• 2008

This study held physical measurement for male subjects in their 20s living in Ningbo City, Zhejiang Province in China, showing the biggest market in men's clothes. Their representative lower body types with average shapes and sizes were chosen so as to develop men's slacks patterns with better dimension fitness. The following are the results of the analysis: 1. Slacks patterns were made based on the mean measurement values of 5 people, who were closest to the representative body types, from the index*absolute group of 47 people. The dimensions of application for slacks pattern-making were 77cm(omphalion waist circumference), 91cm(hip circumference), and 103cm(slacks length). 2. For the comparison of high-fitness and more-room pattern dimensions, 5 styles of slacks were made: Korean, Chinese, British, Japanese, and industrial. In the dressing fitness tests, industrial patterns had excellent appearance and Japanese ones had the best function. 3. Based on the analysis results of slacks pattern comparison, the target slacks were experimentally made and received superior evaluation points to the compared slacks patterns in two times of evaluation for appearance and function. 4. The final slacks pattern in this research had the following dimensions: front waist circumference: W(1-2cm with room included)/4-1cm, back waist circumference: W/4+1cm, front hip circumference: H(9$\sim$10cm with room included)/4-1cm, back hip circumference: H/4+1cm, crotch length: H/4-1.5cm, hip length: crotch length-H/12, front crotch extension: H/16-1.5cm, back crotch extension: H/8+3cm, knee line: 33cm below crotch line, front tuck amount: 4cm, back dart amount: 2.5cm(center) and 1.5cm(side), and back dart length: 10cm (center) and 6cm(side).