• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.673-686
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to identify consumer needs and sensory evaluation of jacquard fabrics for blind using low melting polyester. Ten kinds of jacquard fabric used for this study were developed. Developed jacquard fabrics were assessed subjectively by 164 consumers using 7-point scale of 22 consumer needs and 43 sensory descriptors. The results were briefly summarized as follows: the most important parameter to choose fabric for blind was 'Easy-use' and the other parameters are 'Lightproof', 'UV-protect', 'Design', 'Price', 'Color', 'Insulation', 'Easy-care'. The image sensibility of jacquard fabrics was explained by six factors: feminine, active, modern, traditional, pure, cozy. Higher preference was found in jacquard fabrics of clear, natural, luxurious, simple, feminine, young, cozy, graceful image. The preference was predicted 38.2% with feminine, modern, pure, cozy, traditional factors. Correlation coefficient between image sensibility factor 1 and preference was 0.437. The 3 factors (feminine, modern, pure)were selected as significant image sensibility affecting preference.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.23-32
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• 2005

This study attempts to address the development processing of yarn-dyeing jacquard design by using jacquard textile design professional CAD system to create high valued worth products. To carry out this purpose, two kinds of necktie samples were designed and each of them was different in three types of weaving method. The results are as follows; All over type is appropriate when the motive's size is small. And the work can be finished within short time and design can be illustrated by basic jacquard system. However, one point type can represent rather big and audacious motive but it needs lots of working hours and jacquard system. Though the motives are identical, showed many changes in cubicle representation according to weaving methods and the structure. To express simple and modest design, single fabric woven is suitable and in the need of colorful and technical design, expressing by double weft cloths and triple weft cloths rather than single fabric woven are better to give creativity and colorfulness. For the production of jacquard design, cad system using ability is important but the understanding and study of the whole process of weaving development should be made.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.149-159
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• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권5호
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• pp.825-839
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• 2021

This study aims to develop jacquard fashion masks using traditional patterns and investigates the preference and emotions of consumers for them. Nine patterns were designed with the motifs of plum flower, turtle, and geometric patterns using an Adobe Illustrator program. After that, 20 kinds of jacquard fabrics were developed using those patterns, and prototype masks were made. Furthermore, data were collected using a survey of 231 adult consumers to understand the emotional images evoked by jacquard fashion masks with traditional patterns. The results of the research show that the emotional dimension derived from jacquard fashion masks with traditional patterns consists of seven factors: luxurious image, frugal image, feminine image, oriental image, sporty image, geometrical image, generous image. We found that consumers preferred the M6 with the plum flower pattern as the motif as the most preferred design, while M13 with the geometric pattern as the motif was the lowest preferred.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.102-111
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• 2010

The pegging board planning for jacquard weaves was carried out to express a big enough design in 60 inch width. 20 Kinds of fabrics were fabricated by a jacquard loom with a warp density of 168 yarns/inch, a weft density of 100T, and a weight of 180-220g/$m^2$ or 250-300g/$m^2$. The result of sanitary test about Escherichia coli, Staphilococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Salmonella typhimurium showed a sterilizing power of over 90% after cultivating for 30, 60, 120 minutes. And also its property was sustained after laundrying 20 times. The flame retardant properties showed a good result and complied with the flame retardant criteria of KOFEI 1001. Abrasion, laundry and light fastnesses of flame retardant fabrics showed 4-5 grades. The fabrics manufactured from 30's fiber appeared a little fluff and pill on the fabric. Therefore, they need a shearing process after finishing all processes to decrease the fluff or pill on the fabric. The flame retardant fabric manufactured from 30's and 40's fiber showed increased strength and elongation after soaping and dyeing finishing because the fabrics were shrunk.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.93-103
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• 2010

The results of comparison and analysis of dynamical features according to Jacquard structure are as follows. Regarding elongation(E) value in tensile property, the value in the direction of course was found to be larger in all Jacquard structure, except floating Jacquard, than the direction of wale. It could be found that, as to bending strength(B) in Bending Property, the value of bending strength in the direction of course smaller in all the textile(structure) except floating than the direction of wale, so that the ability of curve formation is excellent. And in case of floating Jacquard, it showed the smallest value in the direction of course and wale, so that it was interpreted as Jacquard having a soft feel. Blister Jacquard showed the highest value in both directions of course and wale, so that it was evaluated as Jacquard having the hardest touch. With regard to shearing character(G) and shearing hysteresis(2HG) in Shearing Property, Jacquard indicated the lowest value, so it was evaluated as the textile(structure) having high drape the transformation of whose fabric is easy. In addition, normal Jacquard, transfer Jacquard, blister Jacquard showed a high value, so that it could be known they are Jacquards having stiff touch. The study implies that normal Jacquard, bird's eye Jacquard, etc., which well stretch in the direction of a course like tubular Jacquard course, is better to make the margin a little shorter than the basic margin, and Jacquard that well stretches in the direction of wale like ladder's back Jacquard and floating Jacquard is better to make the margin longer and the length shorter than the basic margin.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• 감성과학
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.327-336
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• 2010

본 연구에서는 텐셀 자카드 직물에 은행나무 추출물(ginkgo biloba extract)과 실리콘 유연제(silicon softener)를 처리 할 때 실리콘유연제를 동시에 처리하는 방법과 은행나무추출액 처리하고 난 후에 다른 bath에서 실리콘유연제를 연속적으로 처리하는 방법 중 어느 것이 더 촉감이나 선호도에 더 영향을 주는지를 찾아내고자 하였다. 따라서 텐셀 자카드 직물에 은행나무추출액과 실리콘유연제를 처리하여 KES-FB system을 통하여 역학적 특성 및 객관적 태의 변화를 살펴보고, 침장용 직물이 가지는 개별 감각 및 종합 감각의 주관적 감성을 평가하였다. 이밖에도 침장용 직물에서 중요하게 여겨지는 소비자의 개별감각 요소를 평가하여 침장용 직물개발의 기초자료를 마련하고자 하였다. 텐셀 자카드 직물에 은행나무추출액과 실리콘유연제를 처리하게 되면 인장특성인 EM, WT, RT는 증가하여 신축성이 있고 형태안정성이 좋아지며, 인장특성 전단특성이 감소하여 유연성이 증가하고, 무게와 두께가 증가로 부피감이 커져, THV는 증가하였다. 주관적 감성 평가 결과 개별감각 중 부드러움, 따뜻함, 탄력감, 부피감은 증가하고 거침은 감소하는 것으로 평가하였다. 또한 부드러움, 부피감, 따듯함을 침장용 직물이 갖는 중요한 개별감각 요소로 평가하였다. 은행나무추출액과 실리콘유연제를 처리할 경우 촉감이 좋아지고 선호도가 높아지는 것으로 평가되었다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.749-756
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• 2009

Keeping abreast with the latest consumer's trends, industries are focusing on sensibility aspects of products to meet consumer's needs. The car(?) seat cover fabrics are more closely related to human senses than anything else. This study attempted to investigate which seat cover fabric can give good feeling to consumers and to analyze their characteristics. Twelve kinds of jacquard fabric used for seat cover were selected. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the mechanical properties of 12 jacquard fabrics, and tactile sensibility(TS), and preference(P) determined by subjective evaluation of 160 participants were also utilized. The stepwise regression analysis was made to select the most significant mechanical properties, and some models for predicting tactile sensibility and preference was developed. The results are briefly summarized as follows: the most important parameter to choose seat cover fabric is a "hygienic property" and the other parameters are 'materials with color fastness', 'compressive property', 'color', 'antibacterial property', 'easy-care property'. The LogSMD, LogB, LC, EM were selected as significant mechanical properties affecting tactile sensibility. Also, the LC, LogB, LogSMD, LogWC, LogMMD were selected as significant mechanical properties affecting preference.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.