• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1621-1633
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• 2007

The purpose of this research was to evaluate the size fitness of ready-made jacket and their demands through the survey of the middle aged women, and having them try on the jackets, and present the basic data on the ways to increase the fitness by better size controls. The jackets, that were modified and improved through the experiment of the women with triangle-figure in their 50s, were compared and evaluated. The experiment showed a difference in the appearance and the motional function. The triangle-figure had the lowest fitness, thus most uncomfortable. The triangle-figure is characterized by the large waist, leaving small space between body and clothes. This creates the wrinkles in bust or waist area, making it uncomfortable to move. The jacket, that was produced by modifying these problem areas and developing research pattern, showed a good results on the appearances and function.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.182-199
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• 2015

This research aims to design a new style jacket by developing patterns with dart manipulation, to achieve a tailored jacket which has been familiar to us, but with a more creative design. Tailored jackets has been widely worn both by women and men, and used to create various fashion styles. Generally the classic design with a basic lapel and collar is worn the most, and this shows demonstrates an importance of its design. Giacomo Manzu's work of relief art inspired for a creative design of tailored jackets. As a result of the analysis on the visual properties of the relief sculptures, it was found that an omissions of line for cubic effect and dramatized expression give an illusion effect. Based on the illusion effect shown in the case of a relief design, it was patterned and designed with dart manipulation. Through dart manipulation, the shape of a lapel was designed to meet the rear collar, which corresponds to a background plane, by making it like a sculpture at the front background pattern. Then it was found through dart manipulation could be extensively applied for various designs, as well as used to generate massing. Hopefully this creative pattern and design development would be helpful not only in diversification of consumer's needs, but also in the educational field for pattern and development of the fashion design industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.1008-1019
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for elderly women over sixty years old, providing a good fit and appearance. Results were as follows: The length of the jacket was made long enough to cover the area 22.0cm below the waistline. The waist back length was made 1.7cm longer than the actual size of the waist back length. The armhole length was made 0.5cm longer than B/4, enhacing the appearance and functionality while allowing freer movement of the arms. As for the front and back interscye breadths, the front interscye breadth was made 1.7cm larger than the actual size while the back interscye breadth was only 1.0cm larger, providing the front interscye breadth more space. The bust breadth was made 10.0cm larger than the bust circumference measure(B/4+2.5cm), the waist breadth was made 6.0cm larger than the waist circumference measure(W/4+1.5cm), The hip breadth was made 12.0cm larger than the him circumference measure(H/4+3.0cm). The sleeve length was made 3.0cm larger than the arm length measure, as the sleeve length of a jacket is usually long enough to cover the ulnar styloid. The sleeve width was made 5.0cm larger than the upper arm circumference measure, as the upper arm circumference measure of the model pattern was too large than necessary, worsening the overall appearance. The sleeve cap height was set at AH/4+4.7cm. The wrist circumference of 27.0cm was set, allowing 2/3 and 1/3 for the large sleeve and small sleeve respectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.616-625
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• 2009

With suffering financial crisis in 1997, Korea's fashion market has grown in the direction that satisfies the reasonable price and diverse consumer's sensitivity and needs. The aim of this study is to examine whether the cutting portion in the waist line is surely necessary for designing the jacket pattern in men's wear, by closely examining the effects of the cutting portion in the waist line on the external appearance and functionality given designing the jacket pattern in men's wear for the standard body type in 20s. The results of the study are as follows. As a result of evaluating the external appearance, when having evaluated by dividing into 14 items such as the whole surface, the side, and the back side, the experimental clothing, which wasn't cut the waist line, obtained the highest mark in 13 items and, the significant difference was indicated in 10 items except 4 items. As a result of evaluating performance, the experimental clothing, which wasn't cut the waist line, obtained the highest mark in 13 items among 25 items in the total. Next, the cutting portion in the waist line obtained the highest mark in 10 items for the experimental clothing with opening in 1.0cm. The next was indicated to be in order of the experimental clothing with 1.5cm and the experimental clothing with 0.5cm. Given seeing the above result, the cutting portion in the waist line given designing the jacket pattern for the standard body type in 20s could be known that the experimental clothing with the most excellent mark in the evaluation of performance was all the experimental clothing with 0.0cm whose waist line wasn't cut.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.85-97
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for obese women in 20s and 30s, providing a good fit and appearance. The results were as follows: among 3 kinds of patterns collected in order to develop a jacket pattern to fit the average body of an obese woman in 20s and 30s, a business-type pattern(which was comparatively evaluated as a good fit) was worn and revised so as to design a final research pattern with proper fitness and a good shape. The biggest problem of the existing pattern was may overall spares, especially many spares of bust size, waist measurement, hip circumference, all of which makes a bad appearance. Considering the results of a survey which indicates that young obese women like tight-fitting clothes, bust size was decreased from 8 cm to 6 cm, and their waist measurements were bigger compared to other age groups, so a total of 1.1 cm(with 0.3 cm in the front, back side, and 0.5 cm in the back waist) was decreased. The hip circumference was decreased by 2 cm from H/2+4 to H/2+2 cm, the quantity of front deflection was established as 1.5 cm in order to compensate for the coming off of the front side caused by the fat on the stomach.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.71-79
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• 2016

This study aims to suggest the proper neck-width of slim-fit jackets according to numbers of jacket buttons from an one-button jacket to a four button jacket for men in their 30's. The researchers carried out both an appearance evaluation and a movement functionality evaluation. When analyzing the appearance evaluation, there were meaningful differences. The one-button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +2.4cm. The two-button jacket and the three button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +1.4cm. The four-button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +0.4cm. The result of movement functionality evaluation was not related to the appearance evaluation, and showed no meaningful difference. The one-button jacket and two button jacket showed high scores on the back-neck width of +2.4cm. The three button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +1.4cm. The four-button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +0.4cm. In analyzing both results, the study suggests that the proper front neck-width and that of the back-neck width of +2.4cm be for the one-button jacket, the back-neck width of +1.4cm be for the two-button jacket and the three-button jacket, while the back-neck width of +0.4cm be for the four-button jacket.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.216-224
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• 2016

Recently, the interest in a garment that accentuates a fit and slender body continues to be highly desirable. Customers frequently want to wear a slim designed jacket that fits well, reflecting the trends of being young and slim. Accordingly, this research collected information on brands with ready-to-wear slim fit tailored jackets that target female customers in their 30s. By identifying the jacket pattern design and production state by brand, and evaluating the appearance when wearing the jacket, I was able to draw up the following conclusions. First, the fit highlights many problems because of the difference between the model size of brands that targeted domestic women in their 30s and the standard somatotype of them. This can be solved by considering the somatotype of women in their 30s when choosing the models. Second, the relative simplicity of the pattern should allow a slim fit tailored jacket to be produced that fits the front, back and side well. This would lead to the development of a jacket that would fit better as well as allowing for ease of movement. Similar to this, the model size of domestic brands changes frequently and customers prefer the size of a slim model instead of the size suitable for a target's somatotype. This results in a limit on the levels of satisfaction regarding brand targets for body types. Accordingly, it is hoped that this research will become the standard data for the development of a slim fit tailored jacket that will fit women in their 30s well.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.183-194
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• 2013

In recent years, intense cold spells caused by climate change have encouraged an increasing number of people to wear a variety of padded jackets. In this context, this paper aims to address the production of padded jackets in casual brands and to develop basic patterns for well-fitted padded jackets targeted toward women in their 20s. The study centered on the production of padded jackets from 13 apparel companies. In addition, three sample jackets were created with 3oz. fill in the body and 2oz. fill in the sleeves, and they were subjected to a wearing test to determine their movement functionality. The research findings were as follows. Woven jackets constituted 53.4% of the winter jackets produced by casual brands; padded jackets accounted for 25.3%, leather jackets 12.6%, and other jackets 8.7%. Thus, data showed that padded jackets accounted for a considerable proportion of overall winter jacket production. Based on the wearing test results, the basic measurements of a padded jacket for women in their 20s were as follows: bust girth of B/4+3cm front length and B/4+3.5cm back length; waist girth of W/4+3.1 cm front length and W/4+1.9cm back length; and hip girth of H/4+3.3cm front length and H/4+2.8cm back length. The jacket length was set at 62.8cm, with a 63.8cm sleeve length. This study concluded that providing padded jacket manufacturers with basic pattern designs for a well-fitted jacket is expected to boost the efficiency of pattern design processes and the production of padded jackets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1114-1124
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• 2005

The purpose of the paper is to find the elements of jacket pattern far the obese women who went to slenderize their shape by optical illusion. Representative four subjects participated in wear tests. Subjective evaluation of the visual appearance we collected and, at the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the four types of experimental jackets. As results it was found that narrower shoulder width, back upper width, and front waist width resulted in slender look, however, back abdomen width and front shoulder length induced more slender appearance in waist area. The result of the distance between clothing and skin measured by 3D scanner clearly demonstrated the distribution of ease due to the elements of pattern, which is useful to find the pattern variables responsible for the slender appearance of the obese women.