• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.61-70
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• 2005

A representative British designer, Vivienne Westwood's work. world from radical punk style to aristocratic historical dress is explored in context in terms of Englishness. National identity opens up into the process of mobilization of collective sentiment in the national context, unlike nationalism, and Englishness signifies the idea or emotion of England in contrast with Britishness, the political constructor influenced by geographical aspects. There is no doubt that Vivienne Westwood is central to ideas about creativity and originality in English design on subculture. However, in evaluating a designer and her work we should consider the entire context surrounding her from a broader view, rather than arguing only her own ingenuity. In this article, through reconsidering her originality in the historical reference as well as the resistant punk style in aspect of fluid national identity, I show a case of a constituted Englishness, forged by Vivienne Westwood as a cultural creator of national identity. Vivienne Westwood's case hints the complexities of national culture, which constantly shifts, translating her understandings of history and culture into fashion in her contemporary insight and glamorous ways.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.599-614
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• 2017

With the increasing media representation of aging as negative and abnormal, anti-aging products and discourses are spreading to younger generations. This paper analyzes the anti-aging discourse in a fashion magazine targeted towards women in their 20s. It quantitatively analyzes the historical development of the antiaging industry and discourses from 1994 to 2014 in the magazine "$C{\acute{e}}ci$". It also analyzes the patterns of signification associated with aging in the magazine through the use of critical discourse analysis. This paper identifies five major discourses -"segmentation of the definitions of youthful appearance", "scientific and medical discourse", "self-care discourse", "prevention of aging", and "social values of youthful appearances". The paper finds that the construction of anti-aging discourses towards women in their 20s is heavily influenced by the close link between the anti-aging industry and the fashion media. It also confirms the ideology of self-development though a rigorous appearance-management that is strongly imposed on Korean women and subsequently reproduced in an anti-aging discourse towards women in their 20s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.152-170
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• 2023

Although ugliness had long been considered a negative form of beauty, it has become an independent aesthetic category. However, most previous art studies have focused on Rosenkranz's theory, making its application to contemporary fashion analysis challenging. Therefore, it is necessary to redefine ugliness. This study highlighted four modern ugliness categories from a modern perspective following the examination of the historical considerations of the ugliness concept, namely ugliness as a violation of taboo, ugliness as an unpleasant emotion, ugliness as a vulgar taste, and ugliness as an ethical flaw. From this perspective, SHOWstudios for fashion films were analyzed in the present study. The results of our analysis showed that ugliness in the film was related to socially sensitive subjects and stimulating images. Whereas costumes in the film were used as a tool to convey the subject and to enhance the visual effect of the image. In addition, clothing was identified as a core subject element of the video, particularly when considering ugliness as an ethical defect. This study provides further insights into contemporary fashion analysis, expanding the ugliness perspective, which had been limited to the specific perspectives of scholars.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.809-819
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• 1999

The scientific analysis of buried fabrics from the 16th century tomb of Kim HeumJo was conducted focusing on the conservation of fabrics, In order to find out the appropriate cleaning solvent and detergent for historical textiles physical chemical and biological analysis was conducted. The following results are obtained from this study : 1, The buried fabrics from the tomb of Kim HeumJo were composed of cotton silk and ramie. Most of fabrics had lost their original colors faded to brown. It was revealed variations in weaves and patterns were very developed at that times. 2. The chemical components of soils are hydrocarbons alkyl alcohols nitrogen compounds aromatic organic acid which is supposed to be from a human body microorganisms and their by-products. 3. Seven kinds of fungi Actinomycetes Corynebacterium spp Micrococcus luteus Bacillus Clostridium were isolated from the fabrics. The most common fungus was Bacillus.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.7 s.144
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• pp.909-917
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• 2005

Based on the theory that formation of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is related to Mobius strip, this study researches correlation between distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers and historical background based on old documents and restoration. Distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers are as follows. First, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is manufactured just like Principle of Mobius strip that the square is twisted once, considering its materials' conditions. Second, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, manufactured larger, feature cubic effect and twisted formative beauty because its waist and ankle parts are tightened with bands. Third, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, composed of big Sapok and small Sapok in oblique, are suitable for active play due to its high functionality.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.394-400
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical background which uses and characteristics of Korean traditional incense and how to use it in clothes. Incense was at first introduced to Korea in the period of King Nulji of Shilla dynasty. First introduction to this nation, incense was already regarded as divine. It was then developed with five main uses, tribute, fragrance, purification, anti bacteria, and cure. Incense used by fragrance and anti-bacteria in clothes. It make emit a fragrance from the clothes or decorate clothes with ornaments. Incense was also to prevent clothes or books from being damaged by insects and maintain them over a long period. It used one of the factor for beauty of costume.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.53-62
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative properties of fashion bag in contemporary fashion. Today fashion bags can be divided into spatial aesthetic, romantic aesthetic, conspicuous aesthetic, active aesthetic. Spatial aesthetic is a type of big bag which is suitable for women carrying lots of things on a daily basis. Romantic aesthetic is a symbol of femininity in respect for its handmade artistry, splendor, decoration, and impracticality by small size. Conspicuous aesthetic embodies human desire of high quality and being part of prestige of luxury brand regardless of its cost. Multi-functional aesthetic was coming form sports gear and are popular among young generation. In comtemporary fashion, bag take important role as the fashion good which make the clothes look better and additionally they are representative products which reflect the historical situation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.159-170
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• 2003

핀업은 제2차 세계대전기간동안 매력적인 여성들의 성적인 사진들을 군일들이 그들의 숙소 벽에 부착함으로서 생겨난 신조어이다. 이러한 핀업들은 영화의 발달로 인하여 헐리우드 스타들과 같은 발전된 형태로서 나타나게 됐으며, 그들의 스타일은 하나의 패션 트랜드를 만들었다. 본 연구의 목적은 핀업의 스타일을 역사적 관점에서 고찰하여 특성을 분석하며 핀업 스타일이 역사적으로 어떠한 변화를 통하여 오늘날의 현대패션까지 영향을 미치게 되었는가를 연구하는 것이다. 연구방법은 관련된 문헌고찰을 통한 역사학적 이론적 배경을 토대로 하여 핀업의 범주를 설정하고 관련자료를 수집하였다. 그리고 핀업 스타일의 공시적, 통시적 고찰, 역사적 변천과 특성을 분석하여 이들에 내재된 문화적 가치가 패션에 어떠한 영향을 미치고 있는지를 연구해보았다. 연구 결과 핀업 그 스스로는 역사적 고찰을 통하여 그 가치를 지니며, 핀업 스타일의 변화는 구조적으로 이루어지며, 구조는 세대와 취향에 따라 변화하며 패션에 지속적으로 영향을 미치고 있었다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.554-565
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• 2016

This study analyzed expressive effects of King Henry VIII's costumes in films based on DeLong's (1988) theory. Theoretical analysis was done through a literature research of previous studies from both domestic and international. Empirical research was used as a research tool for visual media such as , , and . An analysis on movie costumes indicated that King Henry VIII's costume almost matched DeLong's (1998) expressive effect on excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy. King Henry VIII's costumes in films based on DeLong's (1988) theory expressed significant of strength and excitement in terms of expressive effects with some elegance. King Henry VIII's costumes had their expressive effects different according to the intentions of film productions, even for the identical event scenes with the same purpose. The findings of this study can be used as basic data for the research of design and costumes as well as the production of drama stages for historical dramas during King Henry VIII's reign.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.98-112
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• 2014

Since 2010, Goth styles have risen rapidly in prominence as one of the major trends of fashion. This study intends to understand the Goth style shown from the modern fashion by examining its historically formative characteristics and internal meanings of the Goth style. With mystic attitude toward the medieval Gothic culture, Goth style refers to its reproduction over the cultural circles including music, literature and arts. From the result of the historical review, the formative characteristics of the Goth style may be divided into darkness, distortion, memento mori and bricolage. The historical review of the Goth style contains symbolic meaning of mystery, terror, escape and theatricality. After 2000, Goth style, in combination with factors such as postmodernism and human desire, has been established as the main trend of modern fashion, going with the popular culture. The formativeness of modern Goth fashion is the same as that of Goth style examined from the historic review. However, in modern Goth fashion, the symbolic meaning has the processes of the new: unconsciousness, kitsch, overthrow and popularity.