• 소성∙가공
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.400-404
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• 2015

For mass production of stamped parts, which require complicated in-press operations, it is always advisable to use a progressive die set. It is difficult to choose a progressive die set if the stamped parts need to be deep drawn and especially if they are unsymmetrical. Because unsymmetrical deep drawing parts are very sensitive to the effect of weight during moving to the next step, they are hard to exactly locate on the die face. An automotive seat side cushion panel is about 80mm high, unsymmetrical and its low edge needs hemming, so it is hard to produce even using a progressive die set. In the current paper a progressive stamping for seat side cushion panel was examined. Five strip bridges were considered to be strong enough to move to the next die as predicted by the CAE analysis.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.618-629
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• 2002

This study examines the Jukchoui and Jukchosang from the late 19th century archived at Wonkwang University Museum focusing on the order and techniques of sewing used to make them to arrive at a better understanding of the sewing methods in late Chosen period and of 'Po'(Robe), one of the most symbolic outfits in Eastern Asia. Since there is no document on the items in Wonkwang collection, I reproduced and studies them based on the 19th-century sample. The sewing methods used for these items included fine broad-stitching, saddle-stitching, blind-stitching, and hemming, and there was no lining for the robe. The items in Wonkwang collection seem to reflect the trend of the late Chosun period when various systems including that of clothing were simplified: Jukchoui and Jukchosang in the period had same design for all levels, but colors and lengths were varied to mark the status of the wearer.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권9호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2011

The number of Ryu Ji Kyung's costumes that have been discovered is small but includes various kinds of coat. These coats have become important clues when trying to determine styles of coat that were present in the mid-17he composition of the costumes found were various, including unlined, lined, padded and quilted variations. Unlined clothes were sewed using broad-stitching, hemming, half backstitching, and backstitching. The unique sewing style of the 17th century was shown in Ryu Ji Kyung's costumes. Seams on the back of one coat were not connected but rather sewed as a whole because of the width of the cloth. There was a more elaborate sewing style on lined clothes than on unlined clothes, alongside the use of selvage on the reverse of the costumes, marking the face not by using other clothes, but by the sewing line. Because of their to kit types, the width of the sleeves, the presence of a Cheolrik string, the ratio of the upper jacket to the bottom skirt, and the width between the armpits and bottom hems in Jungchimak, Ryu Ji Kyung's clothes can be used as exemplary models of mid-17th century clothing.

• 한국소성가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국소성가공학회 2005년도 추계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.220-226
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• 2005

To achieve the weight reduction of a vehicle, Magnesium alloys are widely used in automobile parts because of its lightweight characteristics. Magnesium alloys also have advantages in recycling, stiffness, NVH , heat protection. But Magnesium alloy parts are mainly manufactured by diecasting processes, their productivity was not so high compared to by sheet metal working. We are developing vehicle hood using magnesium sheets. In this study we designed magnesium alloy hood which have equivalent mechanical characteristics to steel hood. Using finite element method we decided thickness of magnesium sheets under some design requirements and we changed the shape of hood inner panel and hinge reinforcements. Outer and inner panel thickness was 1.3mm, 1.5mm respectively. Panel dentibility analysis was performed to conform the new magnesium design by nonlinear FEM package. Formability and hemming of Magnesium sheets are the subjects for further study because they have poor stretchability compared to steel sheets.

• 감성과학
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.157-161
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• 2004

경사의 사선방향으로 절단하여 봉제된 바이어 컷 직물로 제조된 의류는 일반 의류와 달리 우아한 외관을 나타낸다. 이 직물의 단점은 형태안정성이 나빠서 완제품의 형태가 패턴의 형태와 다른 모양을 나타내는 경우가 많으며, 특히 밑단 부분이 불균일하게 쳐지므로, 가지런히 절단하는 트리밍 공정을 부가적으로 거치게 된다. 현재의 봉제 공정에서는 트리밍 단계를 모두 숙련공들의 수작업에 의존한 평면 커팅 방법으로 수행하기 때문에 작업자의 피로도에 따라 불량품이 양산되고 그에 따른 소비자들의 불만 요인도 높아지므로, 본 연구에서는 치수조절 마네킹을 제조하여 실제 의복 착용 상태를 그대로 재현한 후, 회전시키면서 스스로 회전하는 자동 커터에 의해서 공간상에서 트리밍하는 3-D 입체 시스템을 개발하였다. 이 시스템에 의하여 제조된 의류는 트리밍 라인이 균일하고 매끄러우며, 안감이 밖으로 밀려나오는 경우가 없어 품위가 있는 외관을 나타내었다. 또한 수작업에 비하여 제조 속도가 훨씬 빠르므로 봉제 후공정에서의 의류 제조 시간을 획기적으로 단축하는 신속 생산 시스템의 요소로서 충분히 사용될 수 있는 가능성을 나타냈다.

• 대한음성학회지:말소리
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• 제38호
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• pp.41-70
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• 1999

Researches on perception have, in recent years, been increasingly popular as a means of accounting for cross-linguistic sound patterns (Ohala, 1992; Hemming, 1995; Jun, 1995; Steriade, 1997 among others). In loanword phonology, Silverman(1990, 1992) argues that words from a source language are scanned through the perceptual level and that the features perceived by a speaker are stored in the input to be processed according to his/her native language's phonological constraints. The purpose of this paper is to test the validity of Silverman's proposal by examining the correlation between perception and production of Korean learners of English. We specifically focussed on perception and production of stop release by contrasting English loanwords with English words loarned through education to see if there were any significant differences. The results showed that there was no substantive correlation between the Korean speakers' perception of the loanwords pronounced by English speakers and their own production of those words. In the case of English words, however, the Korean speakers' production was closely related with their perception, although some inter-speaker variations were observed. With Optimality Theory (Prince & Smolenksy, 1993) as a theoretical framework of analysis, it was shown that the theory is a useful means of implementing a phonetics-phonology interface and relating perceptual processes with speech production. Specifically, under the assumption that loanwords with [t]~[t/sup h/] alternation (e.g.,'cut') are originally borrowed into Korean as two different input forms, all the alternations could be straightforwardly accounted for in terms of a unified ranking of constraints.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.131-144
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• 2009

This study is about single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ excavated from SongHyosang(宋效商, 1430-1490, SHS hereafter), SongHeeJong(宋喜從, the late 1500s, SHJ hereafter) tombs. There are 7 single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ for men. We focus on comparison of their design and sowing method. 1. Design: Investigating collar, $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHS have MokpanGit and $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHJ have KalGit. KalGit has been seen from SHJ to 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. After the late 1500s, there is no MokpanGit single-laTered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ for men. Side panel under arm has various shapes(triangle, trapezoid, triangle+trapezoid) in 15th century. After the late 1500s, It changes into no side panel. Two $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ with no side panel from SHJ reveals that the late 1500s is a period of transition. 2. Sewing method: First, researching lengthwise grainline of the fly, the left fly has lengthwise grainline outside In four, inside in three. The right fly has lengthwise grainline outside in just one, the others have lengthwise grainline inside. Compared with today's way, there is a great difference, but in those times there isn't an established rule. This is true of side panel under arm. The sewing method are backstitch, running stitch, and hemming. Researching the construction method of seam, in putting two selvages together, open seam and plain seam are used. In putting selvage and bias, bias and bias together, flat felled seam and french seam are used. This study shows that single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ far men from 15C. to 16C. has changes of design such as collar(Git) and side panel undo. arm. But there is little change in sewing method.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.157-166
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• 1978

The purpose of this study was; (1) to examine ready-to-wear dresses to find the characteristics of labels and construction which existed at three different price levels and (2) to make the gathered information available to consumers, designers, manufacturers and the people who are concerned with ready-to-wear garments. A check sheet was made listing a wide variety of features which could cause garments to be different. For the statistical analysis. 87 dresses were used out of 116 dresses examined. Observation was made at the stores in Myung Dong, Suh-Dae Moon and No Ryang Jin in Seoul from February 16, 1978 to March 3, 1978. The findings are; 1. The average prices of high, medium and low priced levels were ${\\}54,728$, ${\\}41,448$ and ${\\}7,225$. The average price discrepancy between high and medium priced levels was ${\\}13,000$ and ${\\}34,194$ between medium and low priced levels. 2. Most of the dresses examined had labels in all three priced levels. The most informative labels were found on medium priced dresses and then high. The low priced dresses had no information which would be of help to the consumer in regard to care, size and Jiber content. 3. Most of the dresses examined were cut on lengthwise grain. The stitching of medium and high priced levels were satisfactory. The chief way of fastening threads at the end of stitching was by backtracking. $28\%$ of the low priced levels was found unappropriate in stitching number because it was too large to the fabric. Many dresses in low priced levels were not pressed well. The average hem width of low priced dresses were less than 3cm, the high 3-4cm and the medium 4-5cm. Hemming was done mostly by hand in high and medium and by machine in low priced dresses. The medium priced dresses used more linings than low and high priced dresses.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.14-22
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• 2007

This study is about the excavated costume representing fundamental "Conservation and Restoration". It's not a report of a specific case, but it is a guideline that contains the costume and textile of museum collection. It is not research based on experiments; however, this paper is basically consists of various reported-documents. Followings are the conclusions of this study 1. These are the factors that we have to know to prevent the causes of fabric's degradation. -Light, -Humidity and temperature, -Microscopic organism, -Insect and rodent animal, -Air pollution, -Ph, -Handling 2. Basic principles of conservation and restoration follows are: -Select the Reversible method, -Represent the easily distinguishable repaired place, -Should be acted by an expert or people with experience, -Before the restoration, accurate and specified records should be completed, -Procedure, treatment method, and materials used should be recorded prior to restoration, -Should be cared minimally, -Be cautious when using the conservation materials, -When caring, make sure nothing is against the principle of aesthetic, historic, and form of preservation 3. The types of restoration are type of straight or curve, type of hole, type of without warp or weft, type of special part damage something like sleeve, collar, type of form that is severely damaged, and type of separated pieces. 4. The method of restoration is sewing, stitching, and the combination of sewing and stitching. 5. The restoration seams are welt seam, plain seam, flat felled seam, french seam etc. And there are kinds of used-sewing, such as, broad stitching, backstitch, half backstitch, basking, hemming, saddle stitching etc.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.133-153
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• 2009

Clothing was excavated when the Bae's clan of Seong-san, Yeong-dong, Chung-buk in Sep. 2, 2004. The tombs that the clothing could be restored were the tombs of Bae Cheon-jo(10th generation) and the tomb of Mrs. Nam of Go-seong, the wife of Bae Sang-gyeong(1lth generation). For identifying the features and methods of sewing used for the clothing of man and woman around Po(coat in Korea in the past) in the 16th to 17th century, this study investigated 12 items from Bae Cheon-jo's tomb(Sibok, Dopo(robe), Jungchimak(outer coat with large sleeves) and Gwa-du and 5 items(Jangok(lady's cloak) and Jungchimak) from Mrs. Nam's tomb of Go-seong. For sewing, broad-stitching, hemming and even-back-stitching were used the most in that order. Furthermore, various kinds of sophisticated stitching including old flat felled seam, decorative saddle stitching and buttonhole stitch, clothing made roughly as a shroud and fabric attached on the clothing were also observed. We may not have many opportunities to understand the change of clothing in Korea from mid 16th century to mid 17th century through the clothing of father-in-law and daughter-in-law in a family. As a result, we will be able to understand the features of sewing in a family and from the 16th century to the 17th century.