• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.337-343
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• 2001

This study was purposed to see how men's hair styles of Japan had changed throughout history and results of the study was as follows. There are such evidences as topknots in its primitive styles and wooden combs that several hair styles were tried already in the primitive Jomon Period. In the Yayoi period, bare topknot style without crowns and Mizura style in which hair drop down both ears were popular. In the period of ancient burial mounds, Mizura style was dominative style and varied its form and shape according to classes and status. In the Aska and Nara era, topknot-in-the-crown style in which hair bound in one as in continental style and put in crown or hood, which style was influenced by the Sui and the Tang periods of China. Since the Heian period, topknot-in-the-Ebosi style, binding style, and Karawa style as well as topknot-in-the-crown style came in sight and Sakayaki style became popular in the Kamakura and Muromachi periods. In the Momoyama period, Chasenmage style and Ichomage style were spread widely. In the early Edo era, Wakashumage style and Yaromage style as well as Ichomage style were preferred. In the middle of Edo era in which form and shape of topknot was more distinct symbol of class, status and job than in any other period, Tachmach style under the influence of the Punkin and Honda modes. Sonno style was popular in the late Edo era. There was a drastic disappearance of topknot style by the hair-cutting order during the Meiji Restoration period and civilized hair style of the Jankiri style, a kind of dishevelled hair style without making a topknot was in fashion and continued to the present.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.293-304
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\boxDr$Eigamono-katary$\boxUl$This book is a novel de-scribed the Royal Court from 883 till 1107. In this book many kinds of Garments Orna-ments Colors and Materials were mentioned. But in this paper 69 kinds of Garments and Ornaments were reserched and the rest will be reported in the next paper, The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. All the things of this book were reflections of the reality in Heian period. 2. The main styling of that period was a little bit soft but the straight silhouette were fashioned, . In that time Clothing had a special meaning and the manner for a fashion was very important, .3 In the female garments Karakoromo were developed many kinds of pattern by dyeing method, Especially the Surizome was fashioned very much. 4. there were many kinds of gray tone like as clerical robe and mouning dress. This was the effection of Buddism style. 5. The decoration of fablics and garments were usualized for instance smooding and luster by beating and starch sewuing a piece of gold silver and shell nakabe and knot bend. Shawl Yumaki and Kosizasi was a charming point of that time, . 6, hair decoration shose parasol rain coat etc, . were developed and use freuently.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.32-43
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• 2011

This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.140-155
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• 2009

This study tries to find out the special twine technique of flat string and refers to historical documents, records, artifacts of excavated articles, and real materials. In Japan weaved cloth is called Jomul or Jonue and these methods were brought to Japan from Korea during Aska Period(645${\sim}$710) and Nara Period(710${\sim}$794). Among those knot methods, the 1/1 knot was written as a Shillajo on a documentary record at Heian Period, Engisik, and Samdaesillok which is a historic document from King Saiya to King Gowooko(858${\sim}$887). Also 2/2 knot weaving was recorded as Goryeojo that the technique originated for a long time in Japan. During the Joseon Dynasty, Gunmok was written as Dahoi, and Gwangdahoe, which means wide and flat Gunmok, was the name of Dae(Belt). The frame for the twine Gwangdahoe is no longer in Korea, but only can be found in Japan as a Goraiwoochi loom for Shillajo and Goryeojo from Korea. There are currently artifacts by the techniques of Shillajo and Goryeojo that were excavated in 15${\sim}$17C in Korea. Therefore this study was looked into the artifacts from 6${\sim}$8C in $Sh{\"{O}}so$-in, and the features of Dae (Belt) weaved by Shillajo and Goryeojo case method. Gwangdahoe excavated artifacts in the mid Jeosun Dynasty was restored by the process of Goryeojo weaving method.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.268-276
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• 2023

Ukiyo-e, a pivotal facet of Japanese art, had a profound impact on Western art during the 19th century, contributing to the emergence of Impressionism and Post-Impressionism. Notably, Katsushika Hokusai's "Great Wave" remains an enduring masterpiece. Ukiyo-e's historical trajectory is intricately linked to the socio-cultural context of its time. Japan's early artistic influences derived from China, evolving through the Nara and Heian periods. Ukiyo-e emerged from the Yamato-e tradition, characterized by its transition from religious themes to secular subjects. Zen Buddhism's influence during the Muromachi Shogunate shifted focus to ink wash painting, which eventually became accessible to the masses. The Azuchi-Momoyama period introduced lavish, colorful works. The Edo Shogunate upheld Kano School for the elite, while folklore painting gained popularity among the commoners, leading to the creation of Ukiyo-e. Ukiyo-e diversified its subjects, including beauty, geisha, sumo, landscapes, and more. The Asakusa district's "Shin-Yoshiwara" added to its vibrant themes. By the late 19th century, Ukiyo-e transcended its roots, encompassing landscapes, wildlife, and beyond. I explore Ukiyo-e's aesthetics and its influence on Impressionism, focusing on "The Three Masters of Ukiyo-e" - Kiyotagawa Komaro, Katsushika Hokusai, and Utagawa Hiroshige.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.79-95
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• 2006

The relationships between costumes and literature are the remarkable characteristics in the history of Japanese costumes. Among them, the literary designs which have literary subject matters seem unique to Japan. In Japan, the history of the literary design traces far back and its examples are abundant in various literatures in the Heian era. It is particularly notable that the literary designs take a relatively large part of Kosode pattern in the pre-modern period, the Edo era, which can be cleary seen in Kosodehinagata-bon, a collection of Kosode pattern of those era, in addition to various sources of extant relics or paintings. These literary designs lie the tradition of the literary lyricism as aesthetic sense in the japanese costume history. The literary lyricism means the lyrical mood evoked by literature. The purpose of this study is to examine how the literary lyricism which has supported those literary designs was formed and developed. The literary designs on costumes related with the relationships between literature and formative art, for example painting. Those typical example, which started in the literature tournament, utaawase, was devised for matching up with the character of the assembly. They continued as a sort of the intellectual amusements. In the pre-modern period, the literary designs developed In relation to not only subject matters but those expression. Moreover, it shows the extremely typical example that a series of Kosodehiinagata-bons, consisted solely of literary designs, was enjoyed as a device of reading materials like poem anthology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.129-146
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study is to search the characteristics of aesthetic sense from the spiritual root of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings inside contemporary Japanese fashion. This study considered contemporary Japanese fashion design from 1970 to 2000 to figure out the anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japanese anti-decoration culture. 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the anti-decoration culture 3. finding aesthetically the inside meaning of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The conclusion on this study is as the followings. Anti-decoration culture has three aesthetic ideology. First, faintful aesthetics implies the aesthetic ideologies of Wabi, Sabi from Heian period and it appears the aesthetic sense to be natural beauty. simplicity, minimalism and temperance. Second, ambivalence aesthetics is based on nothingness and has the characteristic of multivocal and variableness without biased view. Third. playful aesthetics has the meaning of humorous. witty and mischievous which is the basic factor of Japanese formative arts. The aesthetic range of this study are the beauty of simplicity. poverty, incompletion, vagueness and humor. First, beauty of simplicity is composed of minimal lines and area through strict temperance and elimination. Second, beauty of poverty came from the aesthetic concept of Wabi which means honorable poverty and plainness. Third, beauty of incompletion means emptiness which is within the range of possibility. Forth, beauty of vagueness could be explained as incorporeal, colorlessness and voiceless. Fifth, Okashi which was the middle ages in Japan, shows the vein of humor in anti-decoration culture. As a result, anti-decoration culture does not mean the opposite of decoration culture, but accomplishes extreme artificial beauty by strict temperance and elimination. Also it is concerned as intentional poverty of decorative effect.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.41 no.6
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• pp.1-19
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• 2013

This study tries to review 'Sakuteiki(作庭記)', the Book of Garden Making, compiled at the end of the 11th Century during the Heian Period of Japan, from the East-Asian perspective. 'Sakuteiki' is a Garden Theory Book, the oldest in the world as well as in Asia, and it contains the traditional knowledge of Japanese ancient garden culture, which originated from the continent(Korea and China). Traditional knowledge related to East-Asian garden culture reviewed in this paper is "Fungsu Theory"(風水, Asian traditional ecology: Fengshui in Chinese; Fusui in Japanese), stemmed from the culture to seek sound and blessed places to live in. Viewed from modern landscape architecture, the Fungsu Theory corresponds to ecology(science). The Fungsu Theory was established around the Han Dynasty of China together with the Yinyangwuxing(陰陽五行) Theory and widely used for making human residences including gardens. It was transmitted to Japan via Korea as well as through direct transaction between Japan and China. This study reinterprets garden design principles represented in Sakuteiki, which were selected in 5 key words according to the Fungsu Theory. The 5 key words for the Fungsu Theory are "the place in harmony of four guardian gods(四神相應地)", "planting trees in the four cardinal directions", "flow of Chi(氣)", "curved line and asymmetry", and "mountain is the king, water is the people". Garden design principles of "the place in harmony of four guardian gods(四神相應地)" and "planting trees in the four cardinal directions" are corresponding to "Myeongdang-ron(明堂論, Theory of propitious site)". The place in harmony of four guardian gods mentioned in Sakuteiki is a landform surrounded by the flow of water to the east, the great path to the west, the pond to the south, and the hill to the north. And the Theory originated from Zhaijing(宅經, Classic of dwelling Sites) of China. According to this principle, the city was planned and as a miniature model, the residence of the aristocrat during the Heian period was made. At the residence the location of the garden surrounded by the four gods(the flow of water, the great path, the pond, and the hill) is the Myeongdang(明堂, the propitious site: Mingtang in Chinese; Meido in Japanese). Sakuteiki explains how to substitute for the four gods by planting trees in the four cardinal directions when they were not given by nature. This way of planting originated from Zhaijing(宅經) and also goes back to Qiminyaoshu (齊民要術), compiled in the 6th Century of China. In this way of planting, the number of trees suggested in Sakuteiki is related to Hetu(河圖) and Luoshu(洛書), which are iconography of Yi(易), the philosophy of change, in ancient China. Such way of planting corresponds to that of Yongdoseo(龍圖墅, the villa based on the principle of Hetu) presented in Sanrimgyeongje (山林經濟), an encyclopedia on agriculture and living in the 17th Century of Korea. And garden design principles of "the flow of Chi(氣)", "curved line and asymmetry" is connected to "Saenggi Theory(生氣論, Theory of vitality)". Sakuteiki explains the right flow of Chi(氣) through the proper flow and the reverse flow of the garden stream and also suggests the curved line of the garden stream, asymmetric arrangement of bridges and stones in the garden, and indented shape of pond edges, which are ways of accumulating Chi(氣) and therefore lead to "Saenggi Theory" of the Fungsu Theory. The last design principle, "mountain is the king, water is the people", is related to "Hyeongguk Theory(形局論, Theory of form)" of the Fungsu Theory. Sakuteiki explains the meaning of garden through a metaphor, which views mountain as king, water as the people, and stones as king's retainers. It compares the situation in which the king governs the people with the help of his retainers to the ecological phenomena in which mountain(earth) controls water with the help of stones. This principle befits "Hyeongguk Theory(形局論, Theory of form)" of the Fungsu Theory which explains landform on the analogy of social systems, people, animals and things. As above, major garden design principles represented in Sakuteiki can be interpreted in the context of the Fungsu Theory, the traditional knowledge system in East Asia. Therefore, we can find the significance of Sakuteiki in that the wisdom of ancient garden culture in East-Asia was integrated in it, although it described the knowhow of a specific garden style in a specific period of Japan.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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• v.101
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• pp.48-65
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• 2022

Three Japanese Buddhist scuptures of Daehyusa temple in Gimcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do province(慶尙北道) are enshrined in the main hall(本堂) of Henjoin temple in Daegu, an annex temple built by the Chisan School(智山派) of Shingi Shingon sect(新義眞言宗) in Daegu around 1910 when the Japanese colonial period began. The following statues are believed to have been made around this time: the Statue of Kobo daishi(弘法大師像), which is the figure of monk Kukai(空海, 774-835), the founder of the Shingon sect(眞言宗) of Japan, and the Statue of Dainichi nyorai(大日如來像) and the Statue of Fudo myo-o(不動明王像), which are notable sculptures representing the thought and belief of the Shingon sect. Most statues identified of Dainichi nyorai, Kobo daishi, and Fudo myo-o from the Japanese colonial period thus far are rock-carved statues or stone statues. The statues of Daehyusa temple are noteworthy in that they are the first discovered Japanese Buddhist sculptures made of wood, known to have been enshrined in Japanese temples. Furthermore, they are valuable sources that can provide clues to the religious atmosphere of the temples of Chisan School of Shingi Shingon sect at the time. Although these statues have formative features that partially reflect modern aesthetics, their iconographic origins date back to the Heian period(平安時代, 794-1185). In other words, the Statue of Dainichi nyorai inherits the religious tradition of the Statue of Dainichi nyorai, which was created by monk Kakuban(覺鑁, 1095-1143), the founder of the Shingi Shingon sect. The Statue of Kobo daishi follows the Shinnyo Shinno(眞如親王) style founded by Monk-Imperial Prince Shinnyo who was a disciple of monk Kukai. The Statue of Fudo myo-o manifests the Genjo(玄祖) style among the statues of Fudo myo-o. Although not much is known about how the statues were enshrined in the Henjoin temple in Daegu during the Japanese colonial period, it is very likely that these statues were created as Shingi Shingon sect's statue of three-wheeled body(三輪身). That is, it is estimated that the Statue of Dainichi nyorai, Statue of Kobo daishi, and Statue of Fudo myo-o have the characteristics of the body of self-nature chakra(自性輪身), the body of great dharma chakra(正法輪身), and the body of order chakra(敎令輪身), respectively. The fact that the statue of three-wheeled body was established in the Shingon sect in Japan by monk Kakuban also lends credence to this possibility. It is thought that people who came to the Henjoin temple in Daegu worshiped the statue of three-wheeled body to understand the teachings of the Dainichi nyorai. Although it is the case of Sildalsa Temple (悉達寺, the successor of Henjoin temple in Daegu) in the first half of the 1950s, the main hall includes features that reinforce the idea that the tradition of Kobo daisi faith(弘法大師信仰) is passed on. To illustrate, the human skeletal remains in the main hall of Sildalsa Temple reflect Koyasan(高野山)'s tradition in laying ashes to rest, which has been popular in conjunction with the Kobo daishi faith in Japan since the 11th century.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.36
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• pp.281-302
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• 2014

Human beings have advanced to release instinctive desire. Among the human desires, sexual desire is classed as a basic desire with appetite and has been expressed in many ways from prehistoric times to present. Despite the social and ethical restriction, expression of sexual image has been evolved with change of time and medium's development. Thanks to inventing the photograph technique, Change of pornographic image has showed a dramatic aspect since early 20th century. The video which delivers message more directly than the picture boosted this change, and the animation has experimented the expression methods and techniques numerously exceeding the limit of realistic image which reappeared by the device. In this thesis, I want to discuss how human beings express sexual desire in animation based on society's sex culture, and analyzed Japanese pornographic animation as its obvious cases. Japanese pornographic animation should be interpreted as the result of culture and society system's history. Through Heian, Edo and early Meiji period, Japanese sex culture has been kept very openly and preposterously. Transformation, metamorphosis, pedophilia, tentacle sex and exposure of specific body parts that are frequently appear in Japanese animation can be interpreted by ancient Japanese open sex culture like Wakashu, polygamy, sleeping in mixed sex group and pederasty. These Japanese odd sex culture is hard to find elsewhere and settled as intrinsic sexual expression in Japanese animation. This situation was institutionally severed by European Modernization's force at the end of World War II in 20th century. However, it seems they have been keeping their influence in a proper form until now. In this study, I discussed that pornographic animation should be interpreted in a frame of cultural phenomenon by researching the series of procedure that ancient Japanese open sex culture has been changed by the system. Sexuality which is found in general Japanese animation was started from their history, and the dichotomous expression about women can be understood that it is bent by institutionally regulated sexual opinion. Japanese history and culture can be understood that it is transformed to the dichotomy that are simultaneously according freedom of eroticism to the pornographic animation, and the fear and irresistible temptation about the woman's body as the other.