• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.27-40
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• 2018

Sauna, or hanjeung (汗蒸) is a physical sweating method that uses external heat to forcibly raise body temperature to treat cold damage disorders (傷寒) in traditional Korean medicine. This study focuses on the fact that the sauna was recorded as a healing and bathing method on the Vinaya Pitaka (律藏), and investigates the records of folk sauna therapy of Joseon Dynasty from the perspective of Buddhist medicine which played a significant role in ancient medicine history in Korea. Although the word 'hanjeung (汗蒸)' first appeared in "The Veritable Records of King Sejong (世宗實錄)" in the Korean literature, this study aims to confirm the possibility that the tradition of Buddhist sauna bathing has already existed since the Three Kingdoms period in Korea, based on the fact that sauna bathing was recorded in the Vinaya Pitaka and that the ancient Buddhist bathing culture was introduced in ancient Japan. In addition, the succession of the Buddhist sauna tradition by Goryeo will be traced back through the records of 1920s urban saunas in Gaesung (개성) which was the old capital of Goryeo and had a strong tendency to adhere to traditional Goryeo customs. Finally, the study tries to identify the elements of the Buddhist sauna bathing on the records of folk sauna therapy in the Joseon Dynasty. As a result, this study examines how the Buddhist sauna bathing culture in ancient Korea, which was led by medical monks, spread in the general public and influenced the folk sauna therapy in the Joseon Dynasty.

• The Bulletin of The Korean Astronomical Society
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.39.1-39.1
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• 2015

Korea has a long history in astronomy, which is proved by many observational records written in Korean chronicles. There are 43 sunspot records in Goryeo dynasty (高麗 918-1392) and 13 records in Joseon dynasty (朝鮮 1392-1910). According to analysis of Korean historical records, it is known that sunspot records in Goryeo dynasty show well in match with the well-known solar activity of 11.3 years. It means that Korean historical sunspot records show real solar phenomena. Korean sunspot records also show that solar activity decrease in Joseon dynasty compared with the previous ~500 years. In order to know the change of solar activity in detail, we examine Korean historical atmospheric records which can indicate climate change. We first analyze historical frost records. Korean chronicles have around 600 frost records during the last millennium. We find that the climate change shows sign of cooling down when check the variation of epoch that the first and last frost events in each year are written. This result is well in accord with that of historical sunspot records. Therefore, we claim that solar activity decrease during the last thousand years.

• Asian review of World Histories
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.45-84
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• 2013

Empirical research into Đại Việt before the $14^{th}$ century has made little progress since the 1990s. To improve this situation, I here examine how the L$\acute{y}$ dynasty (1009-1226), the first long-lasting dynasty of Đại Việt, established stable local ruleafter the "Tang-Song Transition" in China that changed the entire picture of East Asia (including both Southeast and Northeast Asia). This paper focuses on two issues. First are the local administrative units and their governors. The nature of both higher units like lộ(circuits), phủ and ch$\hat{a}$u (provinces), and basic units like hươg and gi$\acute{a}$p (districts?) will be examined. Second, I examine non-institutional channels of local rule by the imperial family. By combining such administrative and non-administrative means, the L$\acute{y}$ central court enforced a considerably stable local rule for two centuries. Finally, I attempt some preliminary comparisons with the local rule of Goryeo (918-1392) in the Korean peninsula, a polity that shared many features with Đại Việt in the process of localization of the Tang and Song models. I hope this approach of viewing small empires from the standpoint not of their "goal" (modern states) but of their "start" (charter polities), will enrich the discussion of East Asian small empires.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.2
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• pp.6-21
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• 2022

This paper examines the material culture of the Goryeo-Joseon Period through changes in the design and crafting of the earpick. In Chapter 2, terminology regarding earpicks is presented, and the culture of using earpicks is examined through fragmentary literature of the late Joseon Dynasty. Earpicks were first a personal hygiene tool, and, secondly, they played a symbolic role as a style accessory used by men, analogous to the fan carried by women of the time. In Chapter 3, earpick form are classified by period, and characteristic decorative techniques for each form are examined. During the Goryeo Dynasty, earpicks were sanitary tools, and, according to their form, they were classified into single and complex types. From Unified Silla to Goryeo, there is an angled type of connecting rod, and in the Goryeo period, there appeared earpicks with colorful decorations on the handle, completely forged earpicks with a thin and long shape, and earpicks which were part of multitools. Common decorative techniques include line expression, gold plating, cheophomun on the background, and inlay. Earpicks of the Joseon Dynasty are classified into sanitary tools or ornaments, according to their purpose of use. Sanitary tools are divided into single type and complex type, and earpicks used as ornaments include headdress, norigae, and sunchu. For earpick accessories, headdresses and norigae were used for women, and sunchu was used for men. The decorative techniques of earpicks during the Joseon Dynasty were mainly seen in the headdress earpicks. They were decorated with various colors in the Cloisonné method or bejeweled. Research on everyday tools among crafts is lacking; greater attempts to read the flow of time and approaches to material culture through everyday tools should be made.

• Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
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• v.50 no.1
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• pp.61-84
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• 2019

This study is an analysis of Mengshan heshang analects. Mengshan heshang lived in Song(?) and Yuan(?) Dynasty and he was a Buddhist monk of Linji Chan(???). His works handed on Buddhist monks of Goryeo in the late Goryeo Dynasty. And he influenced Buddism in the early Joseon Dynasty. In Joseon Dynasty Mengshan heshang Sermons abstract was confirmed existence of 39 editions and Mengshan heshang Liudao Pushuo was confirmed existence of 24 editions. All 63 editions show that Sermons abstract and Liudao Pushuo are his representitive analects. All editions were printed in early Joseon Dynasty. At that time Mengshan heshang analects was distributed in Joseon Dynasty. Mengshan heshang analects was distributed in all over the nation as well as in Royal Family of Joseon. Also Mengshan heshang analects was published many times in the Mt. Jiri area. The names of almost engravers found on the publications of many temples. Some engravers actively participated in publishing Buddhist scriptures in particular area. His ideas were received in the late Goryeo Dynasty and the early Joseon Dynasty actively and his many works appears like this.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.3 s.162
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• pp.351-363
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• 2007

Most of the proceeded research of jogories in the Goryeo era are about the total clothing system of the men and women's dress and not many have studied of the developing process of the jeogories specific structures. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to figure out the origin and the alteration of a git, gil, seop and gorem which forms a jeogori after the Unified Shilla era. The range of this study os from 918 to 1392, Goryeo era and 80 pieces 7 portraits and 5 Buddhist relics were for references. This study reached the following conclusions. First, oat git, gil, seop, somae and gorem forms the Goryeo era's jogori. Second, as the length of the joegori got shorter then the past, the ryeongem also got shorter and changed to an oatgit. Third, as most of the opening side of the jeogori started to fix on the right. Forth, an extra cloth attached on the gil developes a seep that be originates in Unified Shilla when get shoter. Fifth, there were wide and very long sleeves that came all the way down to the hand, narrow sleeves and long sleeves. Sixth, Goryeo era's jeogori had ribbons and cloth buttons to fix the form instead of a belt.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.85-108
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• 2017

This paper details the advance of the "Hui" (回) people to Korea and their socioeconomic activities in forming their own community during the late Goryeo and early Joseon period. Hui (回) or Hui Hui (回回) is generally recognized as representative of Muslim culture in Chinese and Korean sources. From the $8^{th}$ century, Korean-Muslim cultural relations accelerated as an outcome of ancient Chinese-West Asian commercial transactions along the Silk Road. These contacts between Muslims and Koreans on the Korean peninsula are borne out by references to Korea found in 23 Islamic sources written between the $9^{th}$ and $16^{th}$ centuries by 18 Muslim scholars, including Ibn Khurdadbih, Sulaiman al-Tajir, and Mas'ud1 i. Ibn Khurdadbih was the first Arab who wrote of Muslims' residence in the Unified Silla Kingdom (661-935CE). However, in the period of Silla, we could not find any reliable written documents in Korea to show encounters between Korea and the Muslim world. In the Goryeosa (GS) chronicle, Muslim merchants who came to Korea were described as "Daesik" (大食: Tashi). Daesik (Tashi) is most probably derived from "Tajir", which means "trader" in Muslim language. Muslims' mass influx and their wide ranging influence on Korean society manifested from the late $13^{th}$ century when the Goryeo Dynasty first came under Mongol control and afterward in the early $15^{th}$ century with the new dynasty of Joseon in Korea.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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• v.99
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• pp.50-71
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• 2021

The Five-story Stone Pagoda from the Dongsa-ri Temple Site in Buyeo, dated to early Goyeo Dynasty, is valuable in that it is the southernmost example of the capital Kaesong pagoda style. This pagoda exhibits characteristics of the central Goryeo style featured in the pagodas built in and around the capital Kaesong, such as the diagonally curved section of the support for the cover stone above the upper stereobate. It also shares stylistic affinities with eleventh-century stone pagodas. The ansangmun (elephant eye patterns) in the lower stereobate of the Dongsa-ri Five-story Stone Pagoda resemble those in the pedestal of the Stone Seated Buddha (which was likely repaired in 1028 during the reign of King Hyeonjong), at the Jeongrimsa Temple site in Buyeo. It also reflects elements found in the flagpole supports from the Cheonheungsa Temple site in Cheonan. The sculpting techniques used in these patterns are also similar. Such congruencies suggest that the Dongsa-ri Five-story Stone Pagoda was built in the eleventh century. The Dongsa-ri Temple Site in Buyeo, located near the Geumgang River, served as a principal route for transporting grain-tax during the Goryeo Dynasty. It was also situated along the way to the Goryeo royal temple, Gaetaesa Temple. The geographical significance of the site and the extensive repairs undertaken at Jeongrimsa Temple during the reign of King Hyeonjong (r. 1009-1031) of the Goryeo Dynasty appear to have impacted the production of the Dongsa-ri Five-story Stone Pagoda. The Dongsa-ri Five-story Stone Pagoda also bears stylistic resemblances to the stone pagoda and flagpole supports found at neighboring Cheonheungsa Temple, which is presumed to be related to the establishment of Honggyeongsa (or Honggyeongwon) Temple in 1021 in Cheonan. This indicates the route of the transmission of the Kaesong pagoda style. The Five-story Stone Pagoda from the Dongsa-ri Temple Site pays testimony to the cultural accomplishments of eleventh-century stone artworks in Buyeo and adjacent regions. This pagoda embodies the majestic and assertive aesthetics that define of the Goryeo Dynasty, as do early Goryeo colossal Buddhist sculptures, including the Stone Standing Maitreya Bodhisattva at Daejosa Temple in Buyeo, the Stone Standing Buddha Triad at Gaetaesa Temple in Nonsan, and the Stone Standing Maitreya Bodhisattva at Gwanchoksa Temple in Nonsan. All of these bear similarities to the massive stone lantern and pagoda at Hyeonhwasa Temple in the capital Kaesong. The production of the light, sleek, sharp, and sophisticated Dongsa-ri Five-story Stone Pagoda is presumed to reflect the maturity of the cultural competence of the people in Dongsa-ri, Buyeo under the influence of Buddhist culture from the capital Kaesong during the eleventh century, a time marked by active cultural exchanges among regions.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2009

Ip-yeong or gat-keun decorate heuk-rip, supplementing its simplicity. When the wind blew, a dynamic beauty was created, especially if the gat-keun was made with long straps of jade or silk. Basically, ip-yeong was a practical chin strap to hold the gat tight on the head. Commoners made ip-yeong by folding cotton cloth or fine gauze. However, as available materials became diversified, people used cloth, jade, agate, amber, coral, gold medallion, rock crystal and bamboo as well, juk-yeong, which was made with bamboo, became popular especially when Heungsun Daewon-gun, the father of King Kojong, decreed that people wear simple clothes. Most records concerning ip-yeong in Chosun-wangjo-shillok, the authentic record of the Joseon Dynasty, are related to forbidding a sumptuous life. The book also suggests that ip-yeong was bestowed by the king or was offered to foreign diplomats as gifts. Ip-yeong doesn't seem to be a unique system for Korea. Based on portraits or paintings where ip-yeong can be found, it seems to have been widely used during the Yuan dynasty and the Goryeo dynasty. The system disappeared in China as the Ming Dynasty was established, but it remained in use in the Korean Goryeo dynasty and through the Joseon. Literature suggests that the same materials were used for ip-yeong from the beginning of Joseon to the end of the dynasty. Guyeongja refers to a ring that connects an ipja to a chin strap. Guyeongja made with silver, bronze and jade still remain. In gungjungbalgi, the royal court inventory book, records of imogarye can be found (1882), where ten pairs of pure gold strap rings and ten pairs of gold-plated ones were used for a royal wedding.