• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.137-150
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• 2009

Performance costumes are an important element in the stages which set the tones and embody characters in the performances. This study focuses on Gisaeng's costumes in folk dance performances when Korea experienced modernization from Joseon Dynasty, and aims to examine the features of the costumes as well as how the costumes both influenced, and got influenced by, the rapidly changing society. Gisaeng had been legal entertainment performers of the government in the Joseon Dynasty and, despite careful training and talents, had inferior social status in Joseon's social hierarchy system. In the modern society, a new system of Gisaeng emerged and the first public theater opened. The advent of theaters changed performance stages and the ways performances are conducted. This study investigated Gisaeng's performance costumes by the type of folk dances, such as monk dance, palace dance, Salfuri dance, Jangu dance, and Ip dance. The study brings light to three conclusions. First, as folk dances which had been performed by civil dancers were spread to Gisaeng, Gisaeng's costumes absorbed the costumes of civil dancers. Also, royal costumes appeared in folk dance performances. This can be viewed as mixture of royal and folk dance costumes, resulted from interactions between Gisaeng and civil art performers associated with the modernizing society and the weakening of the old hierarchical class system. Second, as performing arts on stages were modernizing, performance costumes changed accordingly. Thirdly, Giseang's costumes in folk dances also adapted the introduction of the western culture, which largely influenced the fashion trends of people in the early modern society in Korea.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.833-841
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• 2021

본 연구는 조선시대에 여악(女樂)을 담당한 예능인이었으나, 사대부(士大夫)의 '성(性)적 상대'로 인식되었던 기생(妓生)의 존재 양상과 그들의 존재가 가능할 수 있었던 조선시대의 사회적 특성을 밝히고자 하였다. 이에 연구는 사대부와 기생의 관계를 다각적인 측면에서 드러내고자 했다는 데에 의미가 있으며, 기생의 다양한 사회적 역할을 확인할 수 있다는 데에 연구의 필요성이 있다. 유교사회에서 여성들이 주축이 된 내연과 친잠례 등에 남자 악공들이 참석할 수 없었기 때문에 여악은 조선조 말까지 존속할 수 있었을 뿐만 아니라 여악은 전문예인이었다는 존재성을 드러내기에 충분하였다. 기생의 존재 양상은 조선시대 사회적 배경과 결코 무관하지 않으며, 따라서 현대사회의 성모랄로 조선시대를 규정지을 수 없다. 『녹파잡기』는 기생을 색정적인 기준에서 묘사하기보다는 비범하고 고결한 정신을 소유한 예능인의 시각에서 보고 있다는 해석에 힘입어, 예인으로서의 기생의 면모를 한층 드높일 것으로 사료된다.

• 복식
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• 제61권6호
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• pp.15-37
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• 2011

This study is on dancing dresses of the costumes of Gum-Mu(劍舞, sword dance) in southern, central, and northern region of Korea, focusing on the origin, characteristics and the way of dance. The reason why the Gum-Mu is full of local color is that royal Korean Gisaeng(妓生) and local Gisaeng returned to their hometown and propagated this dance to each regional Kyobang. They combined court sword with each local dance and music and formed the present style of regional Gum-Mu. Dance and music native to area, which has formed today's regional Gum-Mu. The composition of current dancing costume of the sword dance is Jeogori, Chima, Jeondae(戰帶), Jeonrib(戰笠), Kwaeja(快子) Also, The complement colors harmonizing with color of Yin-Yang & Five Elements. which are yellow, blue, white, red, and black, are usually used. And the masculinity in dance were expressed withmore use of blue, and red in the opposite but if a sword dance takes on masculine character, blue color is more used, if feminie character, reddish colors, such as pink and red, are used. Thus, JinJu, Honam, Haeju, Pyeongyang dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature blue color, Tongyeong, Kyeonggi, Court(seoul)dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature reddish color.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제34호
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• pp.9-42
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• 2017

한국의 검무는 조선시대까지 의례, 민속예능, 궁중연향, 풍류 등에서 다양하게 추어졌다. 그 중 기생들이 민간과 궁중에서 추었던 여기(女妓) 검무가 현재까지 전승되었는데, 조선 후기 문학작품들에 기록된 검무들은 현행 검무보다 역동적이고 검기(劍氣)를 가득 담은 춤이었다. 하지만 현재 전승되고 있는 기녀 검무들은 의식(儀式)성이 강하고 단아하다. 시대적 변화를 겪으며 검무의 정조(情調)가 변한 듯하다. 그러나 이러한 차이에도 불구하고 시대를 관통하는 검무의 핵심적인 구조가 있을 것이라는 가설 하에 검무의 내적 구조를 시론적으로 분석해 보았다. 이를 위해 현행 검무와 조선 후기 검무의 구조를 교차하여 연구하였다. 조선후기 문학작품 중 박제가의 <검무기>와 정약용의 <무검편증미인>을 분석했고, 무보로 "정재무도홀기"에서 <검기무>와 "교방가요"의 <검무>를 분석하였다. 도입과정에서는 춤꾼이 등장하여 절을 하고 춤꾼의 캐릭터를 보여주고, 무진 무퇴하며 손춤이나 한삼춤을 춘다. 전개과정에서는 춤꾼과 검이 만나는데, 검을 잡을 것인지를 갈등하다가 양 손에 칼을 잡고 춤춘다. 절정과정에서 숙련된 검술과 교전(交戰)의 모습을 보여주고, 마지막에 연풍대까지 춘다. 결말과정에서는 궁중에서 추었던 경우 인사를 하고 마치지만, 교방에서 추었던 경우 칼을 던지고 춤을 마무리한다. 검무의 구조를 도입 - 전개 - 절정 - 결말로 구분하였다. 이러한 네 단계의 전개 구조에 현행 검무(진주검무, 통영검무, 해주검무, 호남검무, 국립국악원의 검기무)의 춤사위 진행을 결부시키고, 반주 장단인 염불 - 타령(또는 늦은타령) - 자진타령 - 타령 - 자진타령의 순서에 따라 검무의 전개를 분석해보았다. 도입과정은 염불이나 타령의 초입부분이다. 기생이 등장하면서 캐릭터가 제시되고, 2열로 나뉘어 상대(相對)하며 춤춘다. 염불과 타령의 도입과정은 여유롭고 우아하게 진행된다. 전개과정은 타령의 중간이나 자진타령에 해당한다. 춤꾼들이 검 앞에 앉아 있거나 앉게 되는데, 칼을 잡기(집검(執劍))까지 갈등의 과정이 보여지다가, 결국 쌍검을 잡고 춤춘다. 타령에서 자진타령 장단으로 속도를 점차 높이며 검을 잡는 과정의 갈등과 긴장감을 고조시킨다. 또 자진타령의 탄력 있는 장단이 춤의 전개를 조금씩 진전시키는 역할을 하게 된다. 그런데 속도를 갑자기 늦추어 타령장단이 3~4장단 배치되었다. 자진타령의 빠른 장단에서 타령의 느린 장단으로 전환되는데, 그 이유는 검무의 진전되는 긴장감을 잠시 끌어내 숨을 고르게 했다가, 다시 속도를 높여서, 이 춤이 절정으로 가기 전에 검무의 묘미를 높이는 효과를 만드는 것이라고 하겠다. 그리고 다시 자진타령으로 속도가 빨라지면 검무의 동작들은 더욱 폭이 크고 역동적으로 펼쳐진다. 고조된 자진타령의 빠르고 힘 있는 장단에 맞춰 추면서 절정과정의 최고조에 이르는 것이다. 마지막 결말은 잦은 타령이 고조되고, 연풍대의 여세를 몰아 일렬로 서서 검을 휘두르며 춤추다가, 인사를 하고 춤을 마친다. 여기까지 자진타령이 이어진다. 이상 검무의 전개 과정에서 염불 - 타령 - 자진타령 - 타령 - 자진타령으로 이어지는 반주음악은 검무의 도입, 전개, 절정, 결말이라는 구조와 긴밀히 연관되어 있고, 각 과정을 선명히 드러내는 역할을 하고 있다. 조선후기 문헌에 기록된 기녀들의 검무와 현행 검무가 진행상에 약간의 차이를 보이지만, 시대를 관통하는 검무의 핵심적인 내적 구조를 파악할 수 있다.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제43권
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• pp.7-50
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• 2016

자본주의화된 식민지 조선에서 기생은 위기감 속에서 경제적 구원자가 될 남성에 의존해서 사는 처지였지만 다른 한편으로는 근대와 자본주의가 부여한 변신의 기회를 갖기도 했다. 사회주의자 정칠성도 정치적 각성을 통해 그러한 변신의 기회를 활용한 사람 중 하나였다. 정칠성의 정치적 각성은 3.1운동이라는 역사적 계기와 십여 년 간 기생으로서 경험했던 개인의 노동 체험이라는 두 가지 요인이 작용한 결과이다. 3.1운동은 민족주의라는 외연을 띤 거대한 정치적 사건이었지만 정칠성이라는 한 여성의 개인적인 분노의 감정을 이끌어낸 계기이기도 했다. 또한 초기 자본주의 사회에서 직업을 가진 여성들은 직무 상의 역할 이외에도 순종적이면서도 아량이 넓어야 한다는 정서적인 역할을 강요받았다. 즉 초기 직업 여성들은 공적 영역에서 젠더 위계와 젠더 권력 속에 무방비로 노출됨으로써 분노와 수치, 모멸감 등의 감정을 겪어야 했고 이러한 감정들이 정칠성의 사례에서 나타나듯 어떤 정치적 각성에 이르게 함을 알 수 있다. 노동 경험과 감정의 문제를 매개로 한 정치적 각성은 정칠성으로 하여금 다른 여성 사회주의자들과는 달리, 여성의 경제적 독립이라는 이슈를 구체적이고 현실적으로 이해하게 만든 요인이었다. 그러나 사회주의 언어는 정칠성에게 자신의 체험을 설명할 수 있는, 당시로서는 상대적으로 가장 적절한 언어였지만 그녀의 체험은 엘리트 사회주의 언어로서는 설명될 수 없는 지점들을 갖고 있다. 따라서 그녀의 삶은 엘리트 중심의 사회주의 운동을 넘어서, 하층민 여성의 삶이 새로운 감성으로 분할되고 등재되어 정치적으로 가시화될 필요가 있음을 역설적으로 증명하고 있다.

• 복식
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• 제58권7호
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• pp.151-163
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• 2008

This study was undertaken to design Ginyeo's character and costume in the early-middle Goryeo Dynasty which had a few relics, and to make practical cultural contents. The famous Goryeo Ginyeos who had real names are costume characters. Goryeo women dressed in delicate white ramie jarket in "Goryeo-dokyung", and the shape of Jacket can be two kinds: long-wide jacket enough to tie a belt, and long caftan cover the knee. Goryeo women enjoyed wide yellow skirt, but Ginyeo in "Dongguk-isanggutjip" put on pink, flower, pomegranate, red skirt for high class ladies. In the case of Mong-su(a head cloth with black gauze train), it is thought that Ginyeo fold up train like lower class or just hang down like ordinary women, because of their status. As underwear, a ramie jacket and wide underpants were set up. It is needed that many Golden bells and jade trinkets must be attached to Goryeo Ginyeo's waist to stress their characteristics. Ginyeo's hair style can be designed so that a bunch of right hair was dropped down and the rest hair was rolled on reft shoulder. To design a Ginyeo's costume chatacter of the early-middle Goryeo, the richness of wide skirt, delicacy of white ramie, a great deal of trinkets must be emphasized correctly as a characteristic of Goryeo women's costume in that period.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.297-312
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• 1994

Today though the word ginyoe(gisaeng) was remained as a historic relic but they were firmly existed about 40 years ago and ginyoe's number was about three million in Chosun it's almost near 0.5% of the total population of Chosun. To think that point the ginyoe's so-ciety was considered a special one in the his-tory of Korean woman. The ginyoe as a special social class were specialize in technical art such as dancing and prostitute. Although they were low class they were luxurious slaves whoses clothing was almost equal to that of royal family. They were the leaders of fashion in woman clothing that's because their role was entertainer, This study can be summarized as follows. First ginyoe and public woman's clothing codes were nearly same in koryo but tatally separated in chosun. I could find that was came from those day's moral sprit. Second ginyoe's clothing was not only have luxuriance like royal family but also have unique clothing codes for them. Though they are low class ginyoe could use upper class's clothing codes. But upper class women could'nt use ginyoe's clothing codes are vary various and have their own clothing codes. Third I analyzed ginyoe's clothing codes and then derived 6 ginyoe's clothing messages. They were symbol of wealth symbol of power symbol of occupational function symbol of sexual attraction symbol of social position symbol of freedom.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.239-250
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• 2019

Recently, young people wearing hanbok are highly visible in the palace and in Hanok Village. However, there is much controversy regarding whether the hanbok the young people are wearing is traditional. Young people in Korea are exposed to hanbok through a variety of ways such as school education, games, webtoons, television shows, and movies. In this study, we presented teenagers with illustrations of hanbok to see which they preferred and which if any they recognized as traditional. The study respondents most preferred the hanbok from the 18th century, but they considered the hanbok from the 20th century to be the traditional style. We next used text mining to analyze the students' freely written, open-ended responses regarding the hanbok they preferred and the one they considered traditional. The hanbok from the 18th century, the one the teenagers preferred, was a sexy, cool style related to gisaeng that emphasized the waist, whereas the hanbok they believed was traditional, the $20^{th}$-century hanbok, was simple, neat, comfortable, and plain. Among the young people's responses regarding which hanbok was traditional, the text mining extracted the following repeated words related to both the 18th- and 20th-century hanbok: "dramas," "mass media," "historical dramas," and "movies." For the 18th-century hanbok only, we extracted "webtoons" and "Hanok Village," and for only the 20th-century hanbok, we extracted "textbooks."

• 복식
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• 제65권6호
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• pp.79-98
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• 2015

This article studied women's headdresses that appeared in the paintings of Joseon Dynasty. This examined the shapes of women's headdresses painted in genre paintings, record paintings and nectar ritual paintings from Joseon Dynasty and compared them to literatures and relics in order to analyze their types and characteristics. Headdress can be categorized into three types: (1) square cloth worn on the top of the head; (2) a kind of small cap; (3) Cloth that completely covers the head. The first type of headdress resembles the shape of Garima. In the early period of Joseon Dynasty, it was worn not only by Gisaeng, but also by both upper and lower class women. The second type of headdress includes a cap made by connecting several cloths, round cap, and cone-shaped cap. These two types are worn on top of the head. However, sometimes these were worn between the head and the chignon to fix the chignon. Also, these were used as hair accessories for decorative purposes. In particular, old women wore these headdresses and braided their white hair around them to fix the chignon. This way, the headdress not only kept the head warm, but also hid the old women's scanty hair. Headdress was usually made of black fabric and it was a simple hair accessory that replaced the wig. The third type of headdress was widely worn among lower class women. The cloth completely covered the head so that the hair would not fall when working. It also provided protection from cold and hot weather. According to paintings, there were many ways of wearing the cloth around the head.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.73-85
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of beauty culture in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty from the viewpoint of public morals and find out how characteristic beauty culture was developed along with traditional culture. Therefore, the clothes, the make-up, the style of beard and hair were examined and the beauty culture of women in the latter period Chosun Dynasty was considered. The changes of the beauty culture on the genre painting and the characteristics of the latter period Chosun Dynasty were analyzed. Conclusions are as follows ;First, in case of woman dress, the Korean Jergori was short and the Chima was too long. Due to the diversification of wearing, the underpants play as a decorations. Second, the hair which focus on the cleanness and the sanitation and the skin maintenance method were important. The make-up focus on make-up with powder which emphasis on the slim and round eyebrow, the small and thick lips for the beauty look of the latter period Chosun Dynasty. Third, a unmarried woman did the braids('Taun Muri') and a feme covert did 'Unseen Muri'. As people cling to the big and head of hairs gradually, the chignon('Terae Muri') was in fashion. The beauty culture in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty clothes and cosmetic treatment style were generalized through nobility, common people, lowly people. The imitation mentality which follow after Gisaeng style that led the fashion of that period was shown up. With understanding the beauty culture of the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, the study on the traditional beauty culture should be revitalized. This study help to uplift the pride on Korea traditional culture and to promote the globalization of Korean culture.