• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.1-20
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• 2023

This study proposes the practical design elements of sustainable fashion by understanding the values of the MZ generation and analyzing the design characteristics that can extend the life of clothing. The theoretical concept of sustainable fashion through previous studies was reviewed and in-depth interviews were conducted with the MZ generation on "design characteristics of clothes that they have actually used for a long time." The result was drawn by approaching the constant comparison method through the qualitative methodology. As a result of the study, the design characteristics of clothes that can be worn for a long time are as follows. First, simple design pursues simplicity that is not excessive to the essential characteristics of clothes. Second, sturdy material is durable and not easily damaged. The clothing storage method and laundry method were also factors that could extend the life of the garment. Third, emotional design is a design that fits well with your mood and body type and gives a special meaning to your emotions. This study is meaningful in suggesting elements necessary for extending the life cycle of clothing and providing basic data that can be applied to the practical design steps of the fashion industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.961-970
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• 2014

Several retailers such as Target and Kohle's and their vendors have piloting the 3D clothing simulation programs to produce garment samples. However, few studies have verified the virtual fit information and 3d visualization process for pants, and no study compared the commercial 3D virtual programs. This study is designed to analyze similarity of fit and appearance between real pants with 3D virtual pants based on three 3D virtual programs (Optitex, CLO 3D, and i-Designer), three lower body types (slim, normal, and thick waist type), and fit status. We selected a representative model for each lower body type, produced their custom pants according to Lee and Nam's method(2007), and took photos of front, side and back view for visual analysis. Then, we virtually tried each model's custom pants on her parametric avatar developed by manually inputting their body measurements using the three 3D virtual program. Thirty fit experts compared the real fit to virtual fit. This study found that 'Optitex' and 'i-Designer' can visualize more effectively than 'CLO 3D' in many fit locations. Regarding the body types, 3D virtual program can visualize pants fit for 'thick waist body type' more preciously than the other body types. With respect to fit status, it does not affect much on the similarity overall.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.626-641
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• 2016

Maximalism in modern fashion, which is contrary to the current fashion market that emphasizes functionality and practicality, is an important notion that has been expressed in a variety of ways through designer's unique sense with a mixture of experimental design. With such creative work that suits a trend in novel fashion design, Rei Kawakubo is a current representative of Comme des Garcons who has not only introduced deconstructivism and Japanese-style avant-garde to the fashion industry for the first time. Our research, thus, analyzed the characteristic of maximalism's expression based on the features represented in her collection. Firstly, Expandability is classified as a method of distorting parts of a body and a method of excessively overinflating the silhouette of clothing. Secondly, decorations are expressed in the other as blending different types of materials together. Thirdly, fantasy evokes a fresh and stimulating surreal sensation that may only be felt in an imagination by assigning supernatural and amusing expression to the garment. The forth, fusion refers to a creation of novelty from combining various types of elements and images. The fifth, experiment is unique trait that develops mysterious images, consisted of various details. The sixth, non-structure is different from an initial form of garment that maintains a bilateral symmetry. The importance of our research lies in proposing a fundamental data for development of creative design as well as in expanding a range of possible expression for maximalism, by analyzing the characteristics of maximalism seen in Rei Kawakubo's collection.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.635-645
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• 2015

This study analyzed the range of motion of upper body in different configurations of firefighters' protective clothing and equipment. The purpose of this study was to understand the influence of firefighters' protective clothing and equipment over upper body motion in order to improve design of firefighters' protective clothing and equipment. 12 firefighters' upper body range of motion was analyzed while performing standing and walking trials in five different garment configurations including turnout ensemble, fire boots and the self-contained breathing apparatus. Analysis of upper body range of motion included spinal joints of L5S1, L4L3, T1C7, and C1Head. During standing trials, garment configurations caused a significant difference in range of motions at joints of L5S1, L4L3, T1C7, and C1Head. Analysis on the mean of range of motions at L5S1 and L4L3, showed that firefighters' waist bent forward significantly to a greater extent while they wore a self-contained breathing apparatus. A significantly increased range of motion was found for T1C7 and C1Head while carrying a self-contained breathing apparatus, which indicated an increase in the extension of the trunk and neck backward to stand upright and look squarely. A significant difference in range of motion was also found for L5S1 and L4L3 during walking trials.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.886-898
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• 2013

This study explores the types, shapes and changes of the court dance garments of mudong[child court dancer] and yeoryeong[female court dancer] for court dances such as Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang, and Choehwamu, and the arrangement of colors in their garments. The conclusion of the study is as follows: First, the type of garments of mudong varied according to the type of dance, role of mudong and passage of time. In all four jeongjae's, hongpo[red robe] and baekjilheukseonjungdaneui[white under garment trimmed in black] were commonly found. Second, the dress of yeoryeong in the Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu was that of other yeoryeong, which was basically comprised of hwagwan[flower headdress], hwangchosam[yellow robe], hongchosang[red skirt] and sudae[embroidered belt]. Third, the color schemes of the court dance garments used in Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu revealed that the color arrangement of sangsaeng [mutual generation] of the Ohaeng[Five Elements] scheme were favored in the garments of mudong and yeoryeong. The dress of mudong is characterized by sangsaeng between top and bottom, and between total and part, while the color scheme of the outer and inner was sanggeuk[mutual overcoming]. As for yeoryeong, the color arrangement was of sangsaeng in top and bottom, outer and inner, and total and part, but in the five-colored hansam[sleeve extension], both sangsaeng and sanggeuk were found.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.163-178
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• 2014

In America, where obesity rate ranks no.1 in the world, the plus size market is rapidly expanding with various American brands adding plus size lines in a way to diversify their products. As obesity is expanding throughout the younger generation, the necessity to develop products according to different characteristics of body shape that can fulfill the needs of young plus size consumers is being emphasized. In this study of young plus size, our focus is on providing wider spectrum of design choices for consumers by analyzing different body shapes, categorizing them, and then identifying the differences of design among them. More specifically, the object of this study is to analyze the elements that differentiate the designs from each other by virtually trying out the same item on avatars of various body shapes. Thus, we can identify the elements that needs to be differentiated according to different body shapes after implementing virtual fitting program on plus size shapes that are rather difficult considering the reality of domestic fashion companies. In this way, we are able to provide fundamental data for American plus size fashion market and design development for Korean fashion companies that are under way of entering or planning to enter the American market. Furthermore, this will demonstrate the actual details of the designs that will eventually help the development of specialized product for the globalization of Korean fashion industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1020-1029
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• 2015

This paper investigated the wearing performance of knitted fabrics made of air vortex yarns using PTT/tencel/cotton fibres in comparison with ring and compact yarns for emotional garment. Wicking property of knitted fabric made of MVS yarns was worse than those by ring and compact yarns, however, drying property of knitted fabric made of MVS yarns was better than those by ring and compact yarns, which was explained as more water vapor transport due to larger openness between fibres in the MVS yarns than those in the ring and compact yarns. Thermal conductivity of knitted fabric made of MVS was lower than those of ring and compact yarns and maximum heat flow(Q_max) at the transient state of MVS knitted fabric was lower than those of ring and compact yarns, which may be attributed to MVS yarn structure that has parallel fibres in the core part of the yarn and fasciated fibre bundles on the sheath part with roughness on the yarn surface. However, pilling of MVS knitted fabric was better than those by ring and compact yarns, which was caused by less and shorter hairy fibres protruded from MVS yarn surface than those of ring and compact yarns. It was observed that tactile hand of MVS yarn knitted fabrics was stiffer than those of ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics. It was explained by low extensibility and compressibility and high bending and shear rigidities of the MVS yarn knitted fabrics, which resulted in bad wearing performance of MVS knitted fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.10-20
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• 2010

In this research, by yearly subdividing and analyzing the characteristic of the embroidery design according to the garment item with a season the high value added is raised for a differencing and high performance conversion of the high fashion design and there is an object. In 2004, when the total 474 chapter was selected in S/S season till F/W season in 2008 and the embroidery design characteristic according to the kind of an item the analyzing method and statistical method was used. As to the first, and the embroidery design in which it follows of the garment item showed the stylized, and the plant motive of the geometric pattern by an edge and composite arrangement in an one-piece and blouse with the satin stitch and cut work technique. A monotone and the bright tone were used. The second, and the season different difference, the out line stitch, an applique, and the cut work technique S/S season were a feature. A plant, and the animal motive were expressed as the front arrangement and the monotone of the achromatic color appeared. As to F/W season, the long short stitch and satin stitch techniques were with the characteristic profit. The abstract motive showed up as the edge alignment and composite arrangement. And the plain tone and the monotone of the chromatics combination color are used. In the third, and the chronological difference, an applique the embroidery technique showed up in the out line stitch, and 2007 years in 2004 years and 2006 years. And the sentence motive of the animal, and the abstract motive the embroidery motive are embossed in 2005 years and 2006 years in 2008 years.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.250-260
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• 2020

The purpose of the present study was to explore the most effective body region and cooling temperature to alleviate heat strain of workers in hot environments. We developed liquid cooling hood, vest, sleeves and socks and applied the water temperatures of 10, 15, 20, and 25℃ through the liquid cooling garments in a hot and humid environment (33℃ air temperature and 70% RH air humidity). A healthy young male participated in a total of 16 experimental trials (four cooling garments × four cooling temperatures) with the following protocol: 10-min rest, 40-min exercise on a treadmill and 10-min recovery. The results showed that rectal temperature, mean skin temperature, and ratings of perceived exertion during exercise; heart rate and diastolic blood pressure during recovery; and total sweat rate were lower for the vest condition than other garment conditions(p < .05). However, there was no differences in mean skin temperature among the four cooling garments when we compared the values converted by covering area(%BSA). When we classified the results by cooling temperature, there were no consistent differences in thermoregulatory and cardiovascular responses among the four temperatures, but 25℃ water temperature was evaluated as being the most ineffective cooling temperature in terms of subjective responses. In conclusion, the results indicated that wearing cooling vest with < 20℃ cooling temperature can alleviate heat strain of workers in hot and humid environments. If the peripheral body regions are cooled with liquid cooling garments, larger cooling area with lower cooling temperature than 10℃ would be effective to reduce heat strain of workers. Further studies with a vaild number of subjects are required.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.130-143
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• 2020

The development of three-dimensional (3D) printing technology is bringing new innovations to various fields such as health care, architecture, and fashion. 3D printing can be manufactured to suit the size of the consumer's body, modify the design to meet their tastes, and produce small quantities of various products. Therefore, 3D printing in the field of fashion has great potential. The purpose of this study was to investigate various application models of 3D printing for fashion design and analyze their characteristics after developing the fashion garment samples. First, the background of 3D printing was reviewed then, fashion designed by a 3D printing application was analyzed. As a result, four types of 3D printing applications were developed: object-attached, linkage, kinematics, and assembly. The object-attached type was the method of printing 3D material as an object in the intended shape and form and was attached to the garment by sewing. The linkage type referred to printing 3D material in small pieces of certain shapes that could be linked. The kinematics type was structures with hinges that could flex to fit the human body. The assembly type referred to developing 3D materials in female and male pieces such as nuts and bolts. By providing the advantages, disadvantages, trial-and-errors, and challenges of the 3D printing fashion design process, this study contributes to the effective applications and possibilities of future design.