• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.175-184
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• 2019

The epidermal growth factor (EGF) has a intrinsic function of inducing growth and proliferation of cells through interacting with cell membrane receptors in human epidermis and dermis layer. These functions of EGF are used as a main ingredient for wound healing medicines and anti-aging cosmetics. As a cosmetic ingredient, the EGF has a problem in exhibiting its natural efficacy due to the lack of the ability to penetrate through the stratum corneum, which is known as the skin barrier. In this study, a recombinant human epidermal growth factor ($MTD_{151}-EGF$) fused with the macromolecule transduction domain $(MTD)_{151}$ with the skin penetration ability was developed to improve the skin penetration efficiency of the EGF. Expression of $MTD_{151}-EGF$ was performed in E. coli transformed with a vector encoding the $MTD_{151}-EGF$ gene and then purified. The purified $MTD_{151}-EGF$ was evaluated using cell proliferation assay, cytotoxicity test and skin penetration test by franz diffusion cell assay and artificial skin. Cell proliferation activity of $MTD_{151}-EGF$ purified to high purity of 99% or above was equivalent to the EGF or better, and cytotoxicity was not observed. In addition, the $MTD_{151}-EGF$ showed an excellent penetration efficiency compared to the EGF in the skin penetration test with EGF and $MTD_{151}-EGF$ labeled by FITC in an artificial skin penetration model. Based on the quantitative analysis of the penetrating substance using franz diffusion cell assay, the amount of penetration was about 16 times more than that of EGF. These results can be regarded as an effective alternative to improve the existing physical transdermal penetration method related to the use of various active ingredients for cosmetics.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.89-93
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• 2011

The solvent extracts of Sanguisorbae officinalis L. were investigated for the activities of antioxidants as a functional ingredient for cosmetic products. The electron donating effect of ethyl acetate layer and n-butyl alcohol layer was appeared similar activity with positive control butylated hydroxy anisole (BHA) at all concentrations. In addition, in 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid (ABTS) radical scavenging assay, ethyl acetate layer, n-butyl alcohol layer and water layer were over 99% effect at all concentrations and higher than that of BHA. Also in hydrogen peroxide scavenging assay, ethyl acetate layer and n-butyl alcohol layer were higher than that of positive control ascorbic acid. The measured superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity of n-butyl alcohol was more than 50% at concentration of 1,000 ${\mu}g/mL$ and superoxide anion radical scavenging ability showed more than 45% at 1,000 ${\mu}g/mL$ of n-butyl alcohol layer. All these findings suggested that ethyl acetate layer and n-butyl alcohol layer have a great potential as a cosmeceutical ingredient with an antioxidant effect.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.75-81
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• 2011

The effect of lactic acid bacteria.fermented ginseng berry extract (FGBE) on physiological activities was evaluated. The contents of ginsenosides Re, Rc, and Rb1 in ginseng berry extract (GBE) were increased after fermentation by lactic acid bacteria when analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography. Antioxidant activity of GBE and FGBE was also analyzed by DPPH radical scavenging activity assay and SOD.like activity assay. FGBE showed a 86.34 % inhibition of DPPH radical and a 76.82 % inhibition by SOD.like activity at a concentration of 1.00 %. GBE showed a 49.78 % inhibition of DPPH radical and a 40.80 % inhibition by SOD.like activity at the same concentration. Furthermore, procollagen type I (COL1A1) gene expression increased by 823.13 % and matrix metal-loproteinase(MMP)-1 and tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-${\alpha}$ gene expression decreased by 87.88 % and 99.92 %, respectively, in human fibroblast cultured with FGBE at a concentration of 0.50 %. These results suggest that FGBE could be used as an active ingredient for functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.231-241
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• 2020

In this study in order to develop new approaches we investigated using high voltage pulsed electric fields (PEF) technology to reduce the risks, protect the phyto-constituents and improve skin biological activities. After preparing a Chaga mushroom (Inonotus obliquus) extracts pretreated with PEF, components measurement and skin efficacy evaluation were performed. As a result of the content measurement, the content of polysaccharide and polyphenol were higher in the order of extracts treated with 50 Hz and 25 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm, and the content of protein was the highest in extracts treated with 25 Hz at 0.5k V/cm. Similar to the results of the polyphenol measurements, extracts treated with 25 Hz and 50 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm showed leading DPPH scavenging ability. The cell protection effect against sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and UVB was finest in extracts treated with 25 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm, which had the highest protein content. And the hyaluronic acid synthesis was leading in extracts treated with 50 Hz and 100 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm. Therefore, the active ingredient of the high-voltage PEF pre-treatment Chaga mushroom extract can be developed as a functional material with cell protection and moisturizing effect, and such green technology is expected to be used in various fields of cosmetics and material development.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.22 no.10
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• pp.1330-1338
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• 2012

Solvent extracts of Theobroma cacao L. (TCL) were investigated for anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects in order to consider TCL as a functional ingredient for cosmetic products. TCL(A) extract was fractioned according to polarity with $CHCl_3$, EtOAc, n-BuOH, and water. Following TCL(A) fractionation, the electron-donating ability of the n-BuOH and EtOAc solvent fractions (each 100 ${\mu}g/ml$) was about 76.2% and 53.9%, respectively. The superoxide anion radical inhibitory effect of the n-BuOH and EtOAc solvent fractions (each 50 ${\mu}g/ml$) was about 76.09% and 51.4%, respectively. Results of lipid oxidation showed that $Fe^{2+}$ had a greater chelating effect than $Cu^{2+}$. The $Fe^{2+}$ chelating effect of the EtOAc solvent fraction (50 ${\mu}g/ml$) was about 64%. Hyaluronidase inhibition related to the anti-inflammatory effect was 53.0% with EtOAc at 100 ${\mu}g/ml$, while the lipoxygenase inhibitory effect was about 51.32% at 10 ${\mu}g/ml$. The anti-inflammatory activity in the EtOAc fraction inhibited the generation of nitric oxide. Results also showed that iNOS protein expression increased in RAW264.7 cells. In contrast, at 100 ${\mu}g/ml$ EtOAc, iNOS and COX-2 protein expression significantly decreased in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.21-26
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify the whitening effect of Androsace umbellata extract. To discover the anti-pigmentation effective, we investigated Androsace umbellata extract on tyrosinase and melanogenesis inhibition. As results, it reduced tyrosinase activity and melanin contents in B16F1 melanoma cells in a dose-dependent manner with decreased to about 32% at a concentration of $25{\mu}g/mL$. To reveal how it works in inner-cellular level, we performed Western blot method. We found out that it also inhibited the protein expression in tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein 1 (TRP-1), and microphthalmia associated transcription factor (MITF) in melanocytes. Therefore, we successfully identified the whitening effect of Androsace umbellata extract, and this finding suggested that Androsace umbellata extract is a considerable potent cosmetics ingredient for whitening. Based on this, we anticipated further researches about Androsace umbellata extract for gene levels and additional mechanisms to develop not only for functional cosmetics but for medicines or healthcare food.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.654-661
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• 2021

In this study, in order to isolate excellent whitening agents from fungal cultural broth, various fungi were collected from wild areas in South Korea and then screened for tyrosinase inhibition activity, as tyrosinase is a precursor for the biosynthesis of melanin in regulating skin color. A fungus strain that inhibits tyrosinase activity has been identified and confirmed as Trichoderma viridescens (later renamed T. viridescens SW-1) via ITS sequencing. In T. viridescens SW-1, tyrosinase inhibitory activity was strongest on day three of culture. A 5% culture broth showed a tyrosinase inhibitory activity greater than 90% and exhibited high thermostability on day three. At 10% culture broth, the accumulations of intra- and extracellular melanin were inhibited above 27.1% and 7.5%, respectively. In summary, the physical and functional properties of the tyrosinase inhibitory substances of T. viridescens SW-1 included high levels of inhibition of melanin synthesis and antioxidative activity as well as thermostability. Therefore, we suggest that the whitening substance identified from the cultural broth of T. viridescens SW-1 has potential for application as a functional cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.18 no.12
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• pp.1718-1721
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• 2008

The skin of human is constantly being exposed to environmental irritants such as ultraviolet, smoke and chemicals. These irritants cause free radicals and reactive oxygen species which leave serious damages on the cells of skin. The water and ethanol extracts of Cambodian Phellinus linteus were investigated for the activities of anti-lipid peroxidation and anti-wrinkle effects to apply as a functional ingredient for cosmetic products. As the result of evaluation of liquid oxidation rate by add $Fe^{2+}$ and $Cu^{2+}$ to Cambodian Phellinus linteus extracts, Cambodian Phellinus linteus ethanol extracts were higher than Cambodian Phellinus linteus water extracts in the chealting ability of $Fe^{2+}$ and $Cu^{2+}$. The Cambodian Phellinus linteus ethanol extracts exhibited that anti-lipid peroxidation higher than butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) at the concentration of 0.1 mg/ml, 0.5 mg/ml and 1 mg/ml. Cambodian Phellinus linteus water and ethanol extracts showed a higher inhibitory effect on $Fe^{2+}$-induced lipid peroxidation compared to $Cu^{2+}$-induced lipid peroxidation. In the case of anti-wrinkle effect, the elastase inhibition activity of Cambodian Phellinus linteus ethanol extracts was 50.7%, and it is higher than urosolic acid at the concentration of 0.01 mg/ml. Also, in collagenase inhibition activity, Cambodian Phellinus linteus water extract showed low effect, but Cambodian Phellinus linteus ethanol extract was about 50% at a 0.1 mg/ml. concentration. These results proved that Cambodian Phellinus linteus had anti-lipid peroxidation and anti-wrinkle effect. Therefore, Cambodian Phellinus linteus could be useful as an anti-wrinkle cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.20 no.8
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• pp.1241-1248
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• 2010

The solvent extracts of Nelumbo nucifera G. were investigated for antioxidant activities, whitening and anti-wrinkle effects to apply as a functional ingredient in cosmetic products. For their industrial application, the cosmetic products were also prepared with advanced formulation techniques such as W/O/W multiple emulsion. Total phenolic and flavonoids contents increased in Nelumbo nucifera G.-Leaf (NN-L). The electron donating ability of Nelumbo nucifera G.-Flower (NN-F) or Nelumbo nucifera G.-Leaf (NN-L) extracts were above 85% at a concentration of 500 ppm. The superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity of Nelumbo nucifera G. (NN-L) extracts was about 60% at a concentration of 1,000 ppm. The xanthine oxidase inhibitory effect of NN-L extract was higher than that of NN-F and NN-S extracts. The tyrosinase inhibitory effect, which is related to skin-whitening, was 36% in NN-F at 1,000 ppm. For anti-wrinkle effect, the elastase inhibition activity of NN-L was about 30% at 1,000 ppm. The results of stability test showed that W/O/W multiple emulsion (ME) containing Nelumbo nucifera G. extracts. The electron donating ability of the ME containing NN-F and NN-L were about 60% at a concentration of 100 ppm. The superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity of the ME containing NN-L was 30% at 1,000 ppm. The tyrosinase inhibitory effect, which is related to skin-whitening, was 34% in the ME containing NN-F at 1,000 ppm. In anti-wrinkle effect, the elastase inhibition activity of the ME containing NN-L was about 55% at 1,000 ppm.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.211-221
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• 2017

This study was performed to investigate the functional properties and characteristics of Dolnamul (Sedum sarmentosum) as a cosmetic ingredient. Lyophilized sedum powder was extracted with ethanol and stored at $-20^{\circ}C$ for the following experiments. Total polyphenol compounds of the ethanol extract of sedum (SE) was $27.98{\pm}0.34g/kg$(dry weight): epicatechin ($162.14{\pm}5.07mg/kg$), epigallocatechin ($55.99{\pm}2.49mg/kg$), and kaempferol ($47.96{\pm}3.02mg/kg$) were contained in the SE. The SE had organic radical scavenging capacity ($78.43{\pm}1.08%$) and metal reducing power (FRAP value $2.54{\pm}0.12$). FTC and TBARS assays confirmed that the SE inhibited the early stage of lipid peroxidation ($62.03{\pm}0.38%$) as well as the final stage of lipid peroxidation ($55.36{\pm}2.05%$), respectively. The SE (5 mg/mL, dry weight) was proved to have antibacterial effect on the growth of Propionibacterium acnes. The inhibitory percentages of the SE on elastase and collagenase activities were $38.94{\pm}7.09%$ and $78.94{\pm}2.49%$, respectively. Compare to the control group, the SE treated group induced an increase of Col3A1 expression and collagen production ($58.11{\pm}1.07%$). The oil in water emulsion (0.5% SE adding group) showed pH 6.88 and 1.47 g/mL of density. The hardness changes of the SE adding emulsions were not detected during the stored periods at various temperatures ($-20-45^{\circ}C$) for four weeks. It is considered that the SE has antibacterial, antioxidant, and antiaging activities.