• Title/Summary/Keyword: Front-center pattern

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Pattern Making of the Flared Skirt According to the Lower Body Somatotype of the 20's Women (20대 여성의 하반신 체형 유형에 따른 플레어스커트의 패턴 설계)

  • Lee, Youn-Soon;Ryu, Ji-Hyun;Kim, Kyung-A
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.10 no.5
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    • pp.660-667
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study was to modify a Flared Skirt for women according to the somatotype of lower body. The subjects for the wear test were 3 students, who were in $mean{\pm}1{\sigma}$ each somatotype. The results of this study are as follows: First, the Flared Skirt pattern was modified according to each type. The front waist line rising measurement proposed for type 1 and type 2 were 0.5cm, because of lower front silhouette with waist shape. The back waist line rising measurement proposed for type 2 was 1cm and type 3 was 0.5cm, because of lower back shape with hip. Second, the wave-height of nodes were regular at front and back in type 1. Also, the wave-height of nodes were evenly distributed side and center. The variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were lower than existing pattern in type 2 and type 3. It means the variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were regular in modification pattern. Altogether, modification patterns were more regular and lower than existing pattern in the number of nodes, the distribution ratio of nodes, the wave-height of node, the variation ratio of wave height of nodes.

A Study on Jacket Pattern for Elderly Women (노년여성을 위한 재킷원형 설계)

  • 남윤자;최인순
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.40 no.10
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    • pp.177-189
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study was to develop a suitable jacket pattern for elderly women. The subjects were two women of the ages of 65-70, who had different bust size. To reflect the ready made pattern drafting systems, 4 industrial patterns were selected. After analyzing the problems of these patterns, a new jacket pattern was proposed. The results were as follows : 1) The amount of appropriate ease in fitted jacket for elderly women was about 10cm at the bust circumference, 10∼12cm at the hip circumference and the height of sleeve cap was AH/3+0.5cm. 2) Considering an enlargement of waist and abdomen, difference between front and back size was 2cm on the bust line, 6-8cm on the waist and hip line. 3) Because of the shape of concavity of back-waist, center back line in the pattern was folded by 0.5cm from center back waist toward side seam for manipulation. 4) The new jacket pattern was compared with the existing pattern through the wearing test by sensory evaluation. It showed that the fit and comfort of experimental pattern was superior to those of the existing pattern.

A study on the Development on the Basic Pattern for Pet Dog's Wear (애견복 원형 개발에 관한 연구)

  • Jung, Hwa-Sook;Moon, Myeng-Ok
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.99-106
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    • 2006
  • With the growing interest in pet dogs and pet dog's wear I used this study to compare and analyze the pattern used by each supplier and developed a new pattern for pet dogs' wear which is appropriate for pet dogs' body lines and movement. Test subjects were 91 pet dogs in Busan and after comparing 3 patterns from different suppliers, I developed the pattern reflecting pet dogs' body shapes and movement. Results are as follows; 1) As a result of analyzing measurements, it was found that pet dogs motion in walking on four feet, is different from that of people on two feet. For center measurements, their waist to bust length is longer than their waist to back length. The result of analysis shows that bust circumference impacts most other measurement results and it seems that better results are achieved if the bust line is taken into consideration when measuring bust back length, bust front length, neck base circumference, front leg arc, the length between lateral shoulder etc. 2) As a result of comparing suppliers' patterns, it was discovered that each supplier has different sizes for the same patterns and those sizes are not standardized across the board. Even if the same size of pattern was actually used in the production of pet dogs' wear by the individual companies, there were many variations in size for each item. 3) To develop a more standard pattern of pet dogs' wear, I collected and analyzed 3 patterns from each supplier and designed a new pattern, revising it three times. After test-wearing of the experimental pattern and the studied patterns, and comparing and analyzing the results, the studied pattern had similarly better estimation than the experimental one.

Development of a Sizing System and a Draping Pattern for Hip Protector based on 3D Data Analysis of Korean Older Women (한국 노인의 3D 인체특성 분석을 통한 Hip protector 치수체계 수립 및 입체패턴 설계)

  • Jeon, Eun-Jin;Park, Sei-Kwon;You, Hee-Cheon;Kim, Hee-Eun
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.18 no.1
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    • pp.120-129
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    • 2016
  • This study aimed to develop an optimal sizing system and a draping pattern for hip protector based on an analysis of anthropometric characteristics of Korean older women. A hip protector is a specialized form of pants or underwear containing pads along the outside of each hip. The 3D body scan data of Korean older women were analyzed to identify their anthropometric characteristics and a four-size system with 93% of population accommodation was developed by clustering analysis based on key dimensions derived from factor analysis. The sizing system consists of small/short, large/short, small/tall, and large/tall. A 3D physical model and hip pads were fabricated; then, a hip protector was draped on the 3D model and hip pads. The sizing system of hip protector was analyzed in terms of size and shape and a draping pattern was compared on back center, back side, front side, front center and pad. Lastly, the pattern deformation and clothing pressure were analyzed using the virtual clothing system CLO. Virtual system have disadvantage of not to suggest the objective value. In the future research the wearing comfort and impact absorption of the hip protector needs to be tested and then a hip protector design will be finalized by considering the hip protector's size, material, comfort testing results, aesthetic appeal, protection effectiveness, and practical utility of everyday use.

Development of Pattern Drafting Method for Hip-hugger Tight Skirt and Round Belt (힙 허거(hip-hugger)형 타이트 스커트 및 라운드 벨트 패턴 제도법 개발)

  • Park, Soon-Jee;Kim, Hye-Jin
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.5
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    • pp.661-671
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    • 2011
  • This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

A Study on the Torso Pattern for Plus-sized Women by Draping (입체재단에 의한 Plus size 여성의 토루소 원형개발에 관한 연구)

  • Jang, Ji-Hae;Yang, Chung-Eun
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.43 no.10 s.212
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    • pp.179-190
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study was to apply the three dimensional Replica method to the fabrication of dress forms of plus-sized women to attain proper ease through draping and based on the ease to develop good torso patterns with superior fit. The results were as follows. The physical characteristics of the dress forms of plus-sized women were divided into two: Types I and 11. The proper ease was calculated through draping using dummies of each somatotype and appropriate torso patterns were developed. The differences of the types for each pattern were as follows. The bust girth ease of Type II was 6cm as for Type I. As for the bust breadth 1.0cm was added to the anterior chest width, the armpit width was the actual measurement plus 0.5cm, and the back breadth was the posterior chest width plus 2.5cm. The bust breadth was smaller and the back breadth was bigger that those of Type I after improving the bust and back fit. The bust of Type I protrudes outwards relatively and so the shoulder dart of front-side of Type I was 1.2cm bigger than that of Type II which improved the bust region fit. Considering the characteristics of the protruding abdominal region the front- side waistline of type II was assigned W/4+3.5cm and the back-side waistline W/4cm, so that the sidelines divided the front and back properly. It was drafted so that the center-front became diagonal, thereby improving the middle-hip girth fit.

Relationship between the variation of the Tsushima Warm Current and current circulation in the East Sea (동해에서 potential vorticity와 해류순환과의 관계)

  • Lee Chung Il;Cho Kyu Dae;Yun Jong-Hwui
    • Proceedings of KOSOMES biannual meeting
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    • 2004.05b
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    • pp.89-92
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    • 2004
  • Potential vorticity is useful to illustrate mechanism and distribution pattern of current circulation the upper layer in the East Sea is divided into three part following like surface layer, Tsushima Warm Current(TWC) layer. Potential vorticity shows well the meandering of the TWC and polar front and circulation cell ill the northern part of polar front.

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A Study on the Silhouette of Men's Jackets by Changing Draft (특정부위(特定部位) 제도(制度)의 변화(變化)에 따른 남성(男性) Jacket의 실루엣 변화(變化) 비교(比較) 연구(硏究))

  • Hur, Dong-Jin;Kwak, Youn-Shin
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.1 no.3
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    • pp.95-102
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    • 1997
  • This study is aimed for men's jacket draft not only to other style but also helping for men's jacket fits for trend by presenting the course to get a style we want by adding to the partial drafty changes in existing pattern of men's formal jacket selected two kinds of men's jacket style fit for 1997 S/S trend. In this 1997 S/S trend, the trend I of the characteristic formal jacket is a style slim expressed over the basic formal wear, and trend II of the characteristic casual jacket appears to women's wear that roundly expressed by collar line of V-zone returened back by the shoulder line of jacket made of a big diagonal wrinkled line of X-style in front centered around a button of center front line. In this study, it called that the existing traditional formal jacket of men is a A style of jacket and jacket style I, II is a jacket B, C style. Jacket A, B, C style, a distingtion in draft that added to make form an oblique wrinkled line of the X-shaped-making artificially to the front button line sharply distinguished by eyes will be come out by control of front neck width over the back neck width. According to this, we shall be found that place of front neck point is a cardinal point in draft that will be added any changes in a style of jacket.

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Jeogori Pattern Development for Female in Late 20s According to Shape of Upper Back (20대 후반 여성의 상반신 뒷면 형상에 따른 저고리 원형 개발)

  • Eom, Ran-I;Lee, Yejin
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.1191-1204
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    • 2014
  • Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

A Study of Designing of Bodice and Collar Pattern according to the Shape of Women′s Neck and Shoulder (성인여성의 경부 및 견부의 유형에 따른 길원형 및 칼라원형의 설계에 관한 연구)

  • 김희숙
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.9 no.5
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    • pp.770-782
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    • 2001
  • The definite objects of this study are as follows; 1. The study presents the methods of the designing collar pattern and bodice pattern by each concrete object after comparing and analyzing the factors among the features which are in need of clothes designing. 2. The object of this study is to make body-suitable ready-made clothes by comparing and analyzing the methods of designing collar pattern and bodices pattern presented by each concrete objects and Bunka Pattern. The results of this study are as follows; 1 . The results of this study developed the body-suitable bodice pattern of bend-forward type, straight type and lean-back type Compared with the Bunka pattern by physical function test, this study was rated high in the aspects of the shape of neck and shoulder. 2. The collar pattern was designed according to each type. The front center rising point of straight type is 2.5cm, lean-back type is 3.0cm and bend-forward type is 1.5cm. Compared with the Bunka pattern by physical function test, this study is rated high in the aspects of the shape. To confirm the increase and change of the measure definitely, the complete examination of each subject is necessary. This developed and investigated pattern must be supplemented more by comparing and analyzing with other pattern and body types.

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