• Journal of Ginseng Research
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.354-360
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• 2021

Background: Protopanaxatriol (PPT) is a secondary intestinal metabolite of ginsenoside in ginseng. Although the effects of PPT have been reported in various diseases including cancer, diabetes and inflammatory diseases, the skin protective effects of PPT are poorly understood. Methods: HaCaT cells were treated with PPT in a dose-dependent manner. mRNA and protein levels which related to skin barrier and hydration were detected compared with retinol. Luciferase assay was performed to explore the relative signaling pathway. Western blot was conducted to confirm these pathways and excavated further signals. Results: PPT enhanced the expression of filaggrin (FLG), transglutaminase (TGM)-1, claudin, occludin and hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS) -1, -2 and -3. The mRNA expression levels of FLG, TGM-1, HAS-1 and HAS-2 were suppressed under NF-κB inhibition. PPT significantly augmented NF-κB-luc activity and upregulated Src/AKT/NF-κB signaling. In addition, PPT also increased phosphorylation of the mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) ERK, JNK and p38 and upstream MAPK activators (MEK and MKK). Furthermore, transcriptional activity of AP-1 and CREB, which are downstream signaling targets of MAPK, was enhanced by PPT. Conclusion: PPT improves skin barrier function and hydration through Src/AKT/NF-κB and MAPK signaling. Therefore, PPT may be a valuable component for cosmetics or treating skin disorders.

• Journal of Ginseng Research
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.115-125
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• 2022

Background: Ginsenosides (GS) have potential value as cosmetic additives for prevention of skin photoaging. However, their protective mechanisms against skin barrier damage and their active monomeric constituents are unknown. Methods: GS monomer types and their relative proportions were identified. A UVB-irradiated BALB/c hairless mouse model was used to assess protective effects of GS components on skin epidermal thickness and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Skin barrier function, reflected by filaggrin (FLG), involucrin (IVL), claudin-1 (Cldn-1), and aquaporin 3 (AQP3) levels and MAPK phosphorylation patterns, were analyzed in UVB-irradiated hairless mice or HaCaT cells. Results: Total GS monomeric content detected by UPLC was 85.45% and was largely attributed to 17 main monomers that included Re (16.73%), Rd (13.36%), and Rg1 (13.38%). In hairless mice, GS ameliorated UVB-induced epidermal barrier dysfunction manifesting as increased epidermal thickness, increased TEWL, and decreased stratum corneum water content without weight change. Furthermore, GS treatment of UVB-irradiated mice restored protein expression levels and epidermal tissue distributions of FLG, IVL, Cldn-1, and AQP3, with consistent mRNA and protein expression results obtained in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells (except for unchanging Cldn-1 expression). Mechanistically, GS inhibited JNK, p38, and ERK phosphorylation in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells, with a mixture of Rg2, Rg3, Rk3, F2, Rd, and Rb3 providing the same protective MAPK pathway inhibition-associated upregulation of IVL and AQP3 expression as provided by intact GS treatment. Conclusion: GS protection against UVB-irradiated skin barrier damage depends on activities of six ginsenoside monomeric constituents that inhibit the MAPK signaling pathway.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2023.04a
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• pp.40-40
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• 2023

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory skin diseases caused by skin barrier dysfunction. Allium victoralis var. Platyphyllum (AVP) is a perennial plant used as vegetable and herbal medicine. The purpose of this study was to suggest that AVP is a new cosmetic material by examining the effects of AVP on the skin barrier and inflammatory response. A bibliometric network analysis was performed through keyword co-occurrence analysis by extracting author keyword from 69 articles retrieved from SCOPUS. We noted the anti-inflammatory activity shown by the results of clustering and mapping from network visualization analysis using VOSviewer software tool. HPLC-UV analysis showed that AVP contains 0.12 ± 0.02 mg/g of chlorogenic acid and 0.10 ± 0.01 mg/g of gallic acid. AVP at 100 ㎍/mL was shown to increase the mRNA levels of filaggrin and involucrin related to skin barrier function by 1.50-fold and 1.43-fold, respectively. In the scratch assay, AVP at concentrations of 100 ㎍/mL and 200 ㎍/mL significantly increased the cell migration rate and narrowed the scratch area. In addition, AVP suppressed the increase of inflammation-related factors COX-2 and NO and decreased the release of β-hexosaminidase. This study suggests that AVP can be developed as a functional cosmetic material for atopy management through skin barrier protection effects, anti-inflammatory and anti-itch effects.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2021.04a
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• pp.12-12
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• 2021

최근 길어진 여름 및 이상고온 현상이 지속됨에 따라 심화되는 광노화 피부의 특징으로는 건조, 굵고 깊은 주름, 탄력저하 및 불균일한 색소침착 등이 나타나게 됨. 화장품 소재는 기존 광노화 관련 화학물질인 Retinol 등을 대체하기 위해 자연 유래 성분을 적용한 신소재 연구를 진행하고 있음. 흰목이버섯(Tremella fuciformis)은 흰목이목에 속하는 버섯류로 자실체는 한천질로서, 주름이 되어 갈라져 있거나 또는 귓불 모양을 이루고 있으며, 크기는 10 cm 정도이다. 중국에서는 보양식의 주재료로 쓰일 만큼 탁월한 항노화 효능이 알려져 있다. 본 연구에서는 흰목이버섯의 자실체에서 추출하여 정제한 β-Glucan의 성분 확인, in vitro 수준의 피부 항노화 효과, 동물대체 독성 시험을 통한 피부독성 확인 및 인체 피부유효성 평가를 통한 항노화 효과를 확인하였다. 흰목이에서 추출, 정제 후 Bio-LC를 통한 유리당 분석 결과 Mannose, Fucose, Glucose를 확인하였으며, Human Keratinocyte에 UVB를 조사하여 광노화를 유발한 피부세포에 피부 자극 및 탄력저하 인자인 IL-6, TNFa 및 MMP-1을 평가한 결과 농도 의존적으로 현저히 개선됨을 확인하였다. 또한 보습 및 피부장벽 개선 인자인 Filaggrin과 Involucrin 생성효능을 평가한 결과 매우 높이 생성됨을 확인하였다. 본 연구결과를 토대로 광독성, 피부감작성 및 안점막 동물대체 독성시험을 실시한 결과 무독성임을 확인하여 피부에 안전하면서 효능이 우수한 것을 in vitro 수준에서 확인하였고, 피부 홍반완화, 주름개선, 탄력개선 및 보습증가 등 광노화 예방효과를 인체를 대상으로 평가한 결과 유의적인 홍반완화, 주름개선, 탄력 및 보습증가효과를 확인하였다. 본 연구결과를 종합하여 볼 때 흰목이버섯에서 추출, 정제한 β-Glucan은 in vitro 수준에서 자외선으로 인한 피부 트러블 완화, 탄력 및 보습개선을 확인하였고 독성시험을 통해 무자극임을 판정하였으며, 인체유효성 평가를 통해 광노화 예방효과를 확인하였으며 본 결과를 통해 아시아 및 글로벌 시장으로 천연유래 항노화 소재로 확장하고자 한다.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.249-260
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• 2024

New supplements with preventive effects against skin photodamage are receiving increasing attention. This study evaluated the anti-photoaging effects of salmon nasal cartilage proteoglycan (SPG), acting as a functional material for skin health. We administered SPG to in vitro and in vivo models exposed to ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation and assessed its moisturizing and anti-wrinkle effects on dorsal mouse skin and keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts cell lines. These results showed that SPG restored the levels of filaggrin, involucrin, and AQP3 in the epidermis of UVB-irradiated dorsal skin and keratinocytes, thereby enhancing the keratinization process and water flow. Additionally, SPG treatment increased the levels of hyaluronan and skin ceramide, the major components of intercellular lipids in the epidermis. Furthermore, SPG treatment significantly increased the levels of collagen and procollagen type 1 by down-regulating matrix metalloproteinase 1, which play a crucial role in skin fibroblasts, in both in vitro and in vivo models. In addition, SPG strongly inhibited mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPKs) signaling, the including extracellular signal-regulated kinase, c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), and p38. These findings suggest that dietary SPG may be an attractive functional food for preventing UVB-induced photoaging. And this SPG product may provide its best benefit when treating several signs of skin photoaging.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.17-25
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• 2018

In this study, we examined the efficacy of the immune regulation of ${\beta}$-1,3/1,6-glucan and Lactobacillus plantarum LM1004 on atopic dermatitis models. The oral administration of ${\beta}$-1,3/1,6-glucan and L. plantarum LM1004 on mice significantly decreased the amount of scratching, leakage to evans blue, and concentrations of serum immunoglobulin E (IgE) and histamine compared with the atopic dermatitis - induced group. When atopic dermatitis was induced, the transcription factors (GATA-3, retinoic acid-related orphan receptor ${\gamma}$ T [$ROR{\gamma}T$]) and cytokines (interleukin-4 [IL-4], IL-17) of Th2 and Th17 cells were overexpressed at the transcriptional level, and they significantly decreased with oral administration of ${\beta}$-1,3/1,6-glucan and L. plantarum LM1004. In addition, ${\beta}$-1,3/1,6-glucan and L. plantarum LM1004 were shown to modulate the immune balance by increasing the expression of Th1 and Treg transcription (T-bet, forkhead box p3 [Foxp3]) and cytokines (interferon-${\gamma}$ [IFN-${\gamma}$], transforming growth factor-${\beta}$ [TGF-${\beta}$]). Galectin-9 and filaggrin were significantly lower in the atopic dermatitis - induced group and significantly higher in the ${\beta}$-1,3/1,6-glucan-treated group. In contrast, thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP) was highest in the atopic dermatitis-induced group, while mice that were orally administered ${\beta}$-1,3/1,6-glucan and L. plantarum LM1004 showed similar TSLP levels to the control group. These results indicate that ${\beta}$-1,3/1,6-glucan and L. plantarum LM1004 have immunomodulatory effects and atopic dermatitis improvement effects in an animal model of atopic dermatitis. Therefore, it is expected that ${\beta}$-1,3/1,6-glucan and L. plantarum LM1004 can be used as natural materials in the treatment of atopic dermatitis.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.399-407
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• 2021

Wrinkle formation and dryness are the most well-known symptoms of skin aging. This study investigated skin anti-aging and moisturizing effects of Mugunghwa (Hibiscus syriacus L.), the national flower of Korea. The effect of H. syriacus L. flower extract was examined in skin cells originating from humans in vitro and in hairless mice exposed to UVB in vivo. The in vivo study results showed that skin hydration-related factors such as involucrin, filaggrin, HAS1, HYAL1, and matrix metalloproteinase-I (a primary skin photoaging factor) were regulated by H. syriacus L. Additionally, epidermal thickness and collagen disruption, which resulted in wrinkle formation and skin dryness, were ameliorated by oral administration of H. syriacus L. These results indicate that H. syriacus L. flowers can play important roles in preventing aging and promoting skin moisturizing.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.373-383
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• 2022

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 ㎍/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 ㎍/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 ㎍/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 ㎍/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.87-96
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• 2023

This study was conducted to discover substances that regulate skin surface acidification using human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines, and to investigate their effects on the moisturizing ability and skin barrier function of the stratum corneum. Prunella vulgaris (P. vulgaris) is an herb widely distributed in Northwest Africa and North America that has been studied for its anti-apoptotic, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects. However, research on the regulation of NHE1 expression and the restoration of skin barrier function has not been conducted. Analysis of P. vulgaris revealed the presence of rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid as active ingredients, which were tested for toxicity in human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines (HaCaT), and showed no toxic effects were observed at high concentarion (100 ㎍/mL or 100 µM). It is known that sodium-hydrogen ion exchange pumps (NHE1) decrease in expression in aging skin to maintain the acidic pH of the stratum corneum, and it is hypothesized that this decrease plays an important role in the impaired restoration of skin barrier function in aging skin. P. vulgaris extract and caffeic acid increased the expression of NHE1 in keratinocytes, increased the expression of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) precursor filaggrin and ceramide synthesis enzyme serine palmitoyl transferase (SPT). In addition, P. vulgaris and caffeic acid decreased the extracellular pH of keratinocytes, indicating a direct effect on skin pH regulation. Taken together, these results suggest that P. vulgaris and caffeic acid can regulate skin pH through NHE1 modulation, and may help to restore skin barrier function by increasing NMF and ceramide synthesis. These results show the possibility that honeysuckle and caffeic acid can have a positive effect on skin health, and can be the basis for the development of new skin protection products using them.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.263-278
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• 2004

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1mg/mL UA or 0.1-1mg/mL ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was measured. The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1mg/mL UA and 0.5mg/mL ONA) at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p < 0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/mL per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p < 0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA=UA > vehicle). LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA > ONA > vehicle). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either ONA (10${\mu}$M) or UA (10${\mu}$M) for 24 h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.