• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.111-124
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women´s fashion with the design elements(silhouette, material, color, detail and trimming) of androgynous image which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. 1. The bon silhouette led the market in the first stage of mid 1980. The wool and leather with the masculine image, cotton and soft material with unisex image were used to express the androgynous image. The dark and mono tone with the masculine image were used a lot in color. In women´s fashion the minimalism style with simple image was expressed escaping from the decoration, in which the detail and trimming was not found as in men´s wear. 2. It showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. Women´s wear silhouette with the androgynous image has changed from masculine box silhouette boomed in the first stage to hourglass silhouette and slim silhouette. The wool and leather were used a lot as the materials in the first stage but the usage of the cotton with unisex image and soft texture were getting increased. The main colors were the black and the blue but the usage of the white and the red were on the increase showing the range of the use was extending. In the meantime, the detail and trimming were hardly used like in the first stage. 3. In the third stage of the late 1990, the silhouette has changed to slim style. The wool and leather were mainly used as the materials but the cotton and silk were on the increase showing that the materials of the feminine image were used in the women´s fashion with the androgynous image as well as the materials of masculine image. In color, the black and the white of the masculine image were used increasingly by the effect of the minimalism and the usage of the colors were various for the rising frequency of the trend colors usage.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Subcultural style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of membership. The Goth subculture has associated tastes in music, aesthetics, and fashion. The style symbolized the strong subjective subcultural identity held by most Goths and acted as the practical basis to demonstrate their commitment to the subculture. This study investigates the aesthetic and the style of Goth subculture in its heyday of 1980s which has continued to affect mainstream fashion and culture since its birth. In order to inquire the concept of subculture and its style, this study executes literature survey as well as investigates the images of street style magazines to analyze the visual elements. The stylistic and the aesthetic characteristics of Goth subcultural style analyzed in this study are grouped into four categories as follows: first, Victoriana, which embodies the fear of death and the nostalgia for the past using Victorian morning dresses and corsets, second, vampirism, in that some Goths who are fascinated by vampires are costumed in vampire figures to advocate diabolism and decadence, third, sexual ambiguity of male Goths which emphasizes feminine appearance in the pursuit of androgyny, and fourth, sexual fetish of female Goths which represents aggressive eroticism utilizing fetish paraphernalia.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.336-352
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• 2019

This study examines the characteristics of expressing hippie styles in contemporary women's collections and analyzes them to benefit future fashion design and research. This study reviewed advanced research, fashion magazines, and information providers. The advanced research determined the study's scope by pinpointing the designers who introduced the hippie style into their collections. The results are as follows: First, the reproduced hippie style appears as the combination of various colors and materials, a convergence or mixture of styles, or the use of collage or patchwork. It employs natural silhouettes or varied colors and materials, which makes the renewed hippie style more luxurious than in the past. Second, the reproduced hippie style emphasizes and distinguishes between two types of femininity: a girlish, romantic image using A-line silhouettes and, bright, gleaming colors, and a sexy version that boldly exposes the body or women's curves and, uses soft and flexible materials. Third, the exotic tendencies found in the reproduced hippie style reflect the characteristics of the times, folk costume, or eastern or western features perceived as exotic. Recently, traditional costumes have changed slightly to recall characteristics found in the past. Fourth, the reproduced hippie style reflects hippies' affection for and interest in nature by using environmentally-friendly materials like natural fibers. Flowers, the symbol of hippies, appear most frequently.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.639-650
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate whether characteristics of the perceiver make differences in impressions of clothing types in the situation of first impression formation. Questionnaire was used as major method of gathering data. A poll of 650 men h women between the ages of 20∼39 living in Daegu was taken by the author for this study. Factor analysis, cluster analysis, frequency, ANOVA-test and t-test were implemented with the SPSS-package. The characteristics of clothing types used in our experiments include: sexy, masculine, feminine, dramatic, elegant-classic and casual. The results are as follows; 1 . Men favored sexy clothes more than women, whereas women tended to like masculine clothes more than men. 2. Positive, open-minded men were accepting of masculine, feminine, dramatic and elegant-classic clothes, but gave unfavorable responses toward casual clothes. In contrast, positive open-minded women continued to show unfavorable impressions of sexy clothes. Attitude towards clothing affected the outlook towards clothing by the perceiver 3. Clothing-dependent/vain men favored sexy, dramatic and elegant-classic clothes, while clothing-indifferent men tended toward casual clothes. Furthermore, clothing-dependent/vain women were interested in the feminine style, but women in general continued to show negative responses toward sexy and dramatic clothes.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.18-29
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the formative beauty of metro sexual expressed on the 21C men's fashion. in 21C, metro sexual is being accepted as an object to lead the world consumption culture, and it is said to be most appropriate to the definition as a model that can determine the most modern men. Moreover, with well being life style, it shows characteristic that expresses chic sense through fashion. The results of the study were as below. 1. In recent men's wear, sensory feminine that looks young and trendy is being presented through clothes, rather than the image of men who are strong. Therefore, by wearing splendid flower print, bold color and gorgeous accessories, men send off their attractions. 2. The recent body king syndrome gave new aesthetic value on men's body. Therefore, men's body is becoming cultural icon of metro sexual as another face that shows social status and cultural taste. 3. The men's image of metro sexual that is felt from softer skin and hair than women, and well-built body is appealing more through body conscious look. Here, men's body silhouette is being sublimated aesthetically through design with various materials such as see-through and leather etc., and this is body conscious image that can be seen only in metro sexual. Like this, metro sexual fashion sense was expressed by feminine softness sometimes, and beautiful body silhouette sometimes by expressing one's sexiness enough, being away' from conceptual masculine. Therefore, the appearance of metro sexual can be understood that men's body exposure is becoming a social virtue that expresses beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.224-238
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• 2004

This paper analyzes the similarity of fashion in the 1920's and 1960's. Fashion is a reflection of Zeitgeist. The similarity of fashion appeared in the similar social ideal period. The fashion of the 1920's and 1960's have a lot of similarity in many respects. Androgyny was the new word. The woman cut her hair short, wore short skirt, and projected a self-confidence that was considered by many to be too masculine. The new fashions also appeared very youthful. The cult of eternal youth was born. The mature woman was no longer requested. Instead, in the face of changing lifestyles and extremely rapid technological development, taste ran in favor of a young, athletic, and mobile ideal. The new fashions do-emphasized curvaceous shapes through short dresses and short hair-both styles were supposed to express youthfulness. Characteristic of the times was the short loose dress: straight silhouette disguised feminine curves. The new dresses were invented for very young, slim, and wide-eyed women. The common Zeitgeist of the 1920's and 1960's represents the cult of youth and the adoption of innovative style, which emphasized decoration-cleared simplicity, functionality, practicality, activity, androgyny. Innovative short skirt, youth fashion, androgynous style, unisex style, tubular silhouette, short hair style, and eyeline-emphasized makeup were analyzed by the similarity of fashion in the 1920's and 1960's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.87-100
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• 2003

In this study, the modern street fashion of Kangnam and Kangbuk was qualitatively examined and comparatively analyzed through the field case study, and it is expected that the results of this study be importantly used in planning commodity of fashion brand. The photographs taken in the Kangnam and Kangbuk streets were classified as looks. which were comparatively analyzed each other. Also, a questionnaire was carried out in return for women in those streets, and data related with an age group, occupation, school, academic major, etc. for participant personality and with time purchasing clothing. average expenses for clothing per month. market and reasons for buying clothing, current fashion style, etc. for fashion preference trend were obtained. The streets around Kangnam subway station and KOEX mall for the Kangnam fashion style were selected for the sampling, and Sinchon and entrance of Ewha University for the Kangbuk, where college students and middle/high school students mostly gather. Results showed that an easy casual style was most popular in the Kangbuk area, and a romantic feminine style including a bobos style most popular in the Kangnam area. This case studied on the street fashion gaves the qualitative results about the fashion trend and fashion prediction information, and they could be compared with quantitative those known previously. Also, it could be a basis research on strengthening the competitive power in fashion commodity. However, this study was subjected to restriction in the sampling due to the short time and a few streets. This study will be extended into longer time and various streets including Apgujungdong in Kangnam and many colleges in Kangbuk.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.26-37
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• 2007

Madeleine Vionnet(1876$\sim$1975, France),the most prominent figure of the 20th century draping, started her apprentice in France in 1888 and expressed feminity of adult products through her various works until she closed the house in 1940. The feminine designs of the adult style appeared in 1930s, whose characteristics were silhouette and details that emphasize the body, and bias designs. Not only Vionnet, but also Chanel and Schiaparelli were the representative female designers at that time. The preliminary researches of Vionnet designs were mostly focused on her cutting methods. This paper purports to examine Vionnet's bias cutting method, to compare Vionnet with female designers of Chanel and Schiaparelli who led the mode of 1930s with feminine designs for the adult products in that period, and then to attempt creative designs by use of bias cutting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.49-66
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• 2007

Trench coat derived from military uniforms was one of the classical fashion items and has been endeared as everyday outfits thanks to useful traits. Since 1990s classical design of trench coat began to be modified and many variant styles were appeared after 2000s. Trench coat designs after 2000s were appeared as tradition type that was stick to basic British classic style, variation type that was changed in details, colors, materials, and silhouettes, evolution type that was changed into new items, deconstruction type that was dissolved and open-structured. Modern trench coat expressed modern chic, elegance feminine, stylish casual, military and gangster images. The characteristics of trench coat as classic fashion were utility for everyday life style, excellent ability to express images, and strong visual effects of characteristic details. Trench coat was timeless as classic fashion, at the same time, changed into new fashion styles suitable for the sense of the times.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.95-109
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was for analyzing the fashion design imaged by Kimono in the 1990s. Through the work, what is the way to create the non-western fashion design can be found. For this purpose, I took my design data from fashion magazines in the 1990s, and referred to the literal materials about history of western costume and Kimono. The result were as follows ; Kimono in Japanese denotes thing to wear. Ki is derived from the verb kiru, to wear, and mono, thing. However, in the western world the term came to mean the T-shaped outer garment formerly known in Japan as the kosode. It is consists of sleeve(sode), wide sash(obi), hemline(suso), collar(eri), and material. There were many complex reasons for its diversity in the west, and for its evolution during the past one hundred years from the peignoir including exoticism, eroticism, women's liberation to the high fashion imaged by folklore and avant-garde. Therefore the fashion design imaged by Kimono was divided into feminine style, natural & folklore style, modern & avant-garde style.