• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.925-940
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the major influence of postmodernism on 20th century fashion. Due to its characteristic traits like pluralism, indeterminacy, and immanence, it can be said that postmodernism in fashion manifests itself in an overlapped and duplicated style. The conceptual side has to do with such various 20th century thoughts as decanonization, deconstruction, populism, and in fashion it is presented as subcultural style, syncretic style, and post-feminist style. The stylistic side of postmodernism in fashion also has to do with fragmentation, hybridity, stress on performance and participation, carnivalization, deconstructive turn, and it is presented as hybrid expression, deconstructive technique, performance, and so on. In the latter part of the 20th century in which postmodernism blossoms in various fields, fashion also participates in the current of the times, together with the rapid stylistic turn, the co-existence of various trends, and the experimental or avant-garde new trials. However, it should be said that all of these tendencies mean not so much blurring of the boundaries between styles as developmental mixture of styles coming from juxtaposition after fully realizing the boundaries of contrast and combination.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.873-889
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• 2014

The goals of this study are to analyze how fashion professionals' attitudes toward Grunge style have changed since the 1990s and to compare aesthetic features of 1990s Grunge style and the style since 2000. By searching Vogue and Women's Wear Daily articles from 1992 to 2014 according to the keyword "Grunge", three collections from the 1990s and 59 collections since 2000 were selected for analysis. Although Grunge collections of the 1990s were harshly criticized by critics and retailers as ugly, the more recent collections have been highly praised for both design and profitability. The common aesthetic features of Grunge style in the 1990s and beyond include loose silhouettes, mix-and-match layerings, plaid patterns, floral prints, and striped patterns. However, Grunge style since 2000 has new features such as ornate fabrics, handcrafted details, a formal and dressy look, and faux plaid flannel shirts in chiffon or organza. These features give the style a more luxurious, feminine, and refined appearance. The results of this study indicate that Grunge style of the 1990s changed high fashion beauty standards and today's designers and consumers prefer to mix various styles to create new ones. They typically do not consider the original spirit or identities of the varied styles.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.5-17
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• 2000

This study about the Zoot Style is the first part of a series of research, which is to examine various subcultural styles in 1900s. The main concern of this research is to investigate the origin of a style, the way how it developed, and the reason it appealed to people. Subculture is a marginallized culture which the subordinal groups in the social structure developed as a means of reaction against the dominant groups of a society. The clothes and decorations of these groups can be regarded as the central expressions of exclusiveness, loyalty and identities for their groups. In 1990s, the distinction between the subcultural style and high fashion tend to be blurred, because it has gained more influence on the high fashion. Zoot Suit, adopted and diffused by Cap Calloway in 1940s, is the code of a subculture formed by a special race, class, space, gender, and generation identities. It develops as a reaction, and consequently reflects the struggles against the dominant culture: it is to refuse, appreciate and ridicule the dominant style. The Zoot Style had a great influence both in Paris and Cuba: the Zazous Style in Paris and the Caribbean Style of Cuba are the subcultural styles branched from the Zoot Style.

• 복식
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.94-108
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• 2011

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modem fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Michel Foucault. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are absence and resemblance. They are derived from the Foucault's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Vel$\acute{a}$zquez and Magritte. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress in the 19th century are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. And the aesthetic values of that are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to absence and resemblance. The results are as follows: first, absence in fashion means that body is more emphasized than dress represented by omitting part or the entire of dress or using the transparent materials. In modem fashion, absence also frees the body from dress and creates ambiguity of boundaries between body and dress. Another characteristic of the absence is lessening the volume, which means the size of dress remains still big but the weight is lightened. Second, resemblance means the formative similarities between the Romantic style of the $19^{th}$ century's and that of modem fashion created through using modem technology and materials. The characteristics of the resemblance are the fixed form, lessening of volume of the dress and ornamentation. Feminine beauty inherent in the original, such as subordination, sensuality, and maternity, looses its symbolic meaning and what is created is a new combination of images and signifiant that contain no or uncertain meanings. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modem fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modem society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.127-136
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• 2007

Modern society shares new culture derived from the fusion of various cultures unlike the past culture regulating one phenomenon of certain field as the representative icon of the era. Especially, the phenomenon of globalization acts as the catalytic agent to receive coexistence of variousness easily. Especially, in fashion industry, these flows and the view of naturalism are harmonized and new fashion trend called 'Ethnic' was embossed. As it reflects internal spirit of human being that wants to return to the memory due to expansion of material civilization, the interest in the designer pursuing it is increasing. This study tries to consider the Ethnic style displayed by Chinese American designer, Anna Sui, who pursues the eastern style with full wit and individuality. Anna Sui, who was praised by New York Times for 'the superb harmony of houte couture style and up-to-date style', created another fashion trend, romanticism in New York and she is the worldwide designer representing Ethnic. Like it, the consideration on her Ethnic style reanalyzing as eastern style provides guidance to check how designer's fashion philosophy appears in one category of America and China and new study material that enables us to understand the third world culture code as well as Anna Sui. This confirmation has the meaning as the basic material for the endless challenge to the new style that fashion will go on in the future. Anna Sui was confirmed to have been recognized as a designer who represented the ethnic collection in the United States, exerting the influence with her unique oriental background. Moreover, her design could identify the pivotal point of ethnic image by developing her unique style which is distinct from other designers in terms of silhouette, color, fabric, detail, and so on. This kind of study can provide the basic data required to understand the fashion world of designer in the future.

• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.139-164
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• 2002

The objective of this Paper was to identify the internal and external symbols of Punks, and to assess the significance of punk style giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. For this objective. comprehension on widely discussed idea of punk, furthermore grasping the internal and external form by inquiring historically punk look, and importantly looking into new ideas pursued by punk fashion by studying traits of punk image in 1980's and after are done. Punk in the latter half of the 70's was anti-fashion expressed for the young of working class to rebel against the established generation. At first some of the fashion was popularized by the young who imitated pop stars under the specific economy of Britain, and others with movement of hippie Punk is aesthetics extremism which neglects traditionalism in the past but pursues newness. It denied traditional way of expression and principles of aesthetics but created newness. Punk look was symbolized as poor look. grotesque, androgynous, black, graffiti, and bricolage. And the internal meanings of these symbols are ego-screaming, expression of nihilism, resistance, irony and ridicule, search for hedonism. The punk phenomenon continues today. Some teens still cling to the complete look. whether they have punks' idea and value or not. Diverse elements of punk style play a major role in the current trend of fashion and a source of the fresh inspiration for the high fashion designers. Punk style is truly the story of a fad that turned to fashion.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.17-31
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to investigate the effect of fashion innovativeness and national identity on Korean clothing benefits sought, style preferences, and purchase intention. The subjects were 765 male and female consumers who were residents in Seoul. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe test, and chi-square test. The results were as follows. There were five Korean clothing benefits sought: impression improvement/fashion orientation, national pride, individuality, brand, and comfort. Korean style preferences had four factors of daring/showy, active/simple, elegant, and sophisticated images. The subjects were categorized into three groups by fashion innovativeness and national indentity. The three groups were different in regard to Korean clothing benefits sought, Korean style preferences, and purchase intention. For example, the consumers who had a high fashion innovativeness sought benefits of impression improvement, individuality, and brand name. Also, they preferred daring/showy, elegant, and sophisticated images. In the meanwhile the consumers who had a high national identity sought benefits of national pride, comfort, and impression improvement. Also, they preferred an active/simple style and had an intention to purchase the clothing with Korean image.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.445-460
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• 1994

This paper analyzes Empire style costume based on the fashion theory of Lauer and Lauer. We classify fashion into tow categories, a personal identities, the social competition and sexual competition, he economic factor as a functional factor, and the reflective thing of zeitgeist, eroticism as a dynamic factor. These factors can be visualized from fashion design, textiles, ornaments expressed in the paintings.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.41-53
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• 2014

Contemporary fashion designers are keen on linking the past and the present through culture and fashion by the attempt to investigate and research on the costumes recorded in its history and to reinterpret it on their own terms. Covering the history of culture ranging from the 70s and 80s to the ancient Greek and Egyptian periods, these reinterpretations also reflect the latest fad of the times in which a fashion designer lives and works. Above all, Rococo costume from the eighteenth century is one of the fashion styles adored by fashion designers. What constitute the costume of this period creating the image of sensual women are not only the form of outfit, colors, the design of accessories, shoes and hairstyle but also the details such as frills, ribbons and flower decorations. In contemporary times, the original Rococo style has been modified and turned into various styles in the haute couture and street fashion. These modernized styles include Rock Rococo, Modern Rococo, Lolita Look, Gyaru Fashion and etc., all of which adopt the Rococo style and consider it as the symbol of feminine beauty. However, their approaches to the original Rococo style differ from each other. Hence, advocating the elegance of women is not invariably the case. Often, the interpretations of the Rococo are unconventional, defiant and wild. And, sometimes, these new versions of Rococo are overly exaggerated and emphasized or, reversely, reduced. In this research, various references on the Rococo elements such as colors, forms, accessories and detailed features that has influenced on the contemporary fashion will be analyzed. This analysis will demonstrate how the Rococo style of the eighteenth century has been integrated into contemporary fashion giving birth to new Rococo fashion styles.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.197-206
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• 2015

Ghetto was originated from the concept of "Jewish Camp", the segregated Jewish residential area, and recently it refers to the black neighborhoods of the poor living conditions or slum. A region to form a unique culture distinguished from the adjacent area is also called as ghetto. The culture born in that region is called "ghetto culture", and from the cultural aspect it can mean a type of haven that allows the freedom and deviation of their own. In this study, the generating background and the characteristics of ghetto style especially to adolescents were examined, and celebrities' unique fashion styles that lead the public in the fashion diffusion process were analyzed. Through this, Ghetto culture was understood and the effects of the mass culture phenomena on fashion, symbolization, and an aesthetic value were examined. With this, it aims to help understand the effect of special local culture like "ghetto" on modern fashion and expand the design area. As a result of this study, the characteristics of ghetto style were as followings; 1. It is based on hiphop style; 2. The name brands are exposed conspicuously; 3. Caught eyes by unusually excessive decorations; 4. It expresses confidence and toughness through fashion beyond the resistance to the target who suppresses and humiliates themselves; 5. Ghetto culture is rapidly spread through media. To conclude, ghetto style is an expression of hope of the poor that they can gain wealth through impressing the public and drawing empathy just by their talent. Furthermore, ghetto style is an important cultural trend that has appeared as their wannabe and a powerful display method to express success.