• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.167-181
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• 2018

In modern society, men are selecting dress based on physical features as well as individual taste. Through this concern with appearance, new descriptive words have appeared from time to time. Therefore this study aimed to analyze the type of image style expressed in the Paris Men's Fashion Collection during the period of 2001 S/S collections~2010 F/W collections. This study used Frequency and Chi-square tests through SPSS 12.0 program for the analysis of a total of the 1,357 materials shown from nine designers. The results were as follows. As a result of examining the image style according to chronology and season by frequency and the tendency of design works by chi-square test, in the tendency of the image style by chronology, the style emphasizing a sexy and manly appearance is preferred through the tendency that Homme Fataleism has been continually released in foreign men's fashion collections for about ten years. In the tendency of the image style by season, the image style of the Homme Fataleism was highly published in SS and FW season except for SS in 2004 and 2008. In the tendency of design works by chronology and season, the H-silhouette was highly preferred for about a decade. In color, the light brown group was frequently used until 2008 while gray has mainly been of use since 2009.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1844-1858
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• 2010

Ethnical tendency follows the current political, economical, and cultural influence eastwards, highlighting films, architecture and interiors as well as fashion. With this tendency, the ethnic outfits are expressed by various styles. This study analyzes the features of current ethnic styles with 1,535 ethnic image pieces from 2005 S/S to 2010 F/W of Pr${\^{e}}$t-${\'{a}}$-Porte in Paris and Milan. First, 'ethnic' is to refer to the distinct features of an ethnic group or a country. 'Ethnic look' refers to the adaptation or re-arrangement of various ethnic group's traditional costumes, dying, textile, patterns, color, silhouettes, and accessories. Second, the most popular ethnics in the modern fashion is the African style, followed by India, Japan, China, and Latin America in both collections. Third, the proportion of ethnics decreased, 2005 (14.9%), 2006 (12.8%) and 2007 (8.2%). In 2008 the proportion increased again. 2010 (27.3%) and compared 2010 to 2007, it increased by 20%. By season, S/S had 1.4 times more ethnic styles than F/W with the prevalence of African and Indian styles. Fourth, as of 2005, the ethnic style became colorful and went through changes to combine various images. This is from the polycentric tendency of co-existing various styles with a prevalence of low tone and various colors. It also shows warm colors in front to show a sense of nature.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.185-203
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to reveal the modern succession and reinterpretation of brand identity through the case of Balenciaga design presented by Demna Gvasalia through a review of the literature, design collection, and design review analysis. The design collection analysis was conducted from 2016 F/W to 2020 F/W, when Demna Gvasalia commenced responsibility for the Balenciaga collection. A total of 12 articles from overseas fashion magazines and newspapers were analyzed. A modern reinterpretation of Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga design is as follows. First, he introduced luxury mode to reflect a sense of the times and introduced luxury street looks based on street and sports sensibilities, showing various styles without specific concepts. Second, by sharing universal sensibilities based on pragmatism, he proposed an easy-to-wear outfit for daily life to demonstrate the everydayness of fashion. Third, as a new exploration of traditional structural beauty, the design of Cristobal Balenciaga was reinterpreted through the conversion of items, overlapping outfits, and the introduction of high-tech technologies. Fourth, by taking a conceptual approach to fashion, he has renewed the spirit of experimentation and modernity shown by Cristobal Balenciaga. Fifth, with the presentation of a new icon, new styles of sneakers such as Triple S and Speed Runner are presented as new icons. He inherited the original mindset and creative approach of the house's founder, Cristobal Balenciaga, and reinterpreted it from a contemporary street sensibility and pragmatic perspective.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2017

Ralph Rucci, the first American designer who presented official collections at Paris Couture since Mainbocher, is known for his innovative dressmaking techniques and sculptural forms. Accompanied by literature survey, this study examines the aesthetics of Ralph Rucci's designs by content analysis of his works, Rucci's designs since his debut collection of 1994 until he left the Chado Ralph Rucci label in 2014 and his returning collection under the new label, RR331, in 2016. Ralph Rucci developed his creative designs by the following strategies: First, he reinvents the couture tradition of Balenciaga and $Gr{\grave{e}}s$ into progressive and functional American couture in that he gives consideration to a wearer's movements and comforts. Second, Rucci constructs architectural volume based on human anatomy and architectonic strategies, with the attention to three-dimensional quality of the space built between the body and a garment. Third, he conducts engineered construction summarized by his original 'suspension' techniques, which function as both ornamentation and construction.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.10
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• pp.79-90
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make new suggestions for the production of high value-added, fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing the design of dress shirts. (Ed-I've combined paragraphs here) For this study, 1491 photographs on the dress shirts were collected for analysis from men's collection$(2001\sim2006)$. Concerning the actual characteristics of men's fashion design, the following conclusions were obtained from the analysis of the dress shirts of men's collection. (Ed-I've combined paragraphs here) First, feminine ornaments such as frill, pin tuck, and embroidery can be seen in men's dress shirts and men's sexuality has changed into a softer men's image. Second, asymmetry balance using detachability are expressed in the collars, sleeves, and plackets of men's dress shirts. Third, in a very novel suggestion, a combination of two items was designed in a dress shirt and variant shirt forms were created. Fourth, formal style is mainly shown in men's shirts and the traditional classic is increasingly becoming emphasized recently

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1163-1176
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• 2011

The purposes of this study was to identify characteristics of total coordination in the pursuit fashion sensibility among women their 20's. A self-administered questionnaire was used for data collection from 410 women in their 20's. Data collection was conducted Aug. 5 to Aug. 15, 2009. Most women emphasized on clothing for total coordination and utilized clothing color and style as a selection criteria. They tried to match makeup and clothing, and spent more time considering makeup, hair styles, and fashion accessaries than clothing for their total coordination. Factors of fashion sensibility included luxury and fashion, casualness and ethnicity, modernity, sociality, activity, and sexual attractiveness and women were segmented into fashionably sensible intermediate, low, and high groups according to their fashion sensibility. The fashionably sensible intermediate group predominantly encompassed women who were unmarried or in their late 20's, unemployed, highly educated, or of low economic status, preferred to mixing and matching colors, and who utilized their individuality or makeup color for total coordination. The fashionably sensible low group encompassed homemakers, in their early 20's, high school graduates or university students, who utilized their clothing or hair color within their total coordination criteria. The fashionably sensible high group encompassed unmarried career women in their mid 20's or of high economic status, who spent much money on their clothing, makeup, hair styles, and fashion accessaries, who preferred achromatic, warm or cool colors, and utilized their individuality or fashion color.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.608-619
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• 2017

In this research, we analyze jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S~2015 F/W to investigate how shape, tailoring component, and design of jackets have changed. Our analysis of 2,493 jackets from the collection shows that the hour-glass silhouette was the most popular among silhouettes and that standard-length was the most popular jacket length. Such jacket shape expresses the natural beauty of human body. Regarding Tailoring Components, our analysis shows that tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which is neither too wide, padded, nor low, were prevalent. The analysis also shows that tailored collar and button closure were the most common. Tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which fit the body outline, allow the silhouette to show natural curves of the human body. As for jacket design, popular colors differed by season, but single-colored jackets prevailed, and woven was the most used material. Since 2000, the most favored form of jacket in women's fashion was a standard-length jacket with an hour-glass silhouette, tight sleeve, natural shoulder line, and tailored collar. This suggests that jackets emphasizing natural curves of the body were favored. Overall, silhouette, length, sleeve, and shoulder line remained consistent while collar and closure varied. This indicates that collar and closure method play a significant role in changes in fashion. Seasonally, elements of shape, tailoring component, and design coexist, but once the shape is determined, the tailoring component and design change in relation to each other.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.77-93
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze on the fashion collection of Hussein Chalayan who has changed the concept of fashion design in the 21st century and has pioneered in the new vision of fashion. This study will give a new perspective and perception of fashion as a conceptual and ideological art. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, Hussein Chalayan's multicultural ideas and interdisciplinary approaches which based in national speciality are the unique elements in his works. Second, Hussein Chalayan intends to present his works as an expression of conception. He has expressed the clothes which speaks the form of nature, symbolizes the combination of culture, visualizes time and space and investigates the existence of human being. Third, Hussein Chalayan has asked an endless question about existence of the human being. Furthermore, He has put a question about the relationship between time, space, history, nature and the human being. His trial to visualize the metaphysical conception of 'ego' and 'self' through his works of art makes him as the designer who represents the 21st century. Forth, Hussein Chalayan pursues the communication between the human being and the world. His works is made for human being and makes the human life as valuable thing. Because the clothes is completed when the human wears it, it can not exist without the relationship of human being. Fifth, Hussein Chalayan makes a various attempt to combine with different artistic field. Fashion has developed to new direction with diverse trial and combination beyond fashion field and this has to be a direction in the 21st century fashion. Fashion is not just making clothes, but accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.136-153
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• 2020

In the second half of the twentieth century, fashion shows were a long-standing promotional medium and changed form and styles as times changed. In the past, if a model were on the stage simply to showcase a brand's work, the stage would have been transformed into a more active space, displaying various performances or seasonal themes combined with art. Then in the 2000s, there was an increasing number of instances when the global fashion industry of used figurative objet in organizing a fashion show's stage. In particular, because fashion shows require audience response and satisfaction, producing displays using objet is an effective marketing method. In the early 2000s, many brands were already introducing runway displays using objet, and these cases are expected to increase further in the future. This collection of 23 ready-to-wear models, which constituted the runway display, was by utilizing the objet more than five times from the 485 brands listed in Vogue's runway category. Based on our previous research, we classified the objet expressive characteristics as reproducibility, simplicity, non-artificiality, and fantasy. Among the 207 collections that we analyzed, the collection that utilized objet in its runway display had 170 circuits. Using objet in the runway display leverages visual language which allows one to communicate the season's concept, brand identity, and desired message more easily. Futhermore, it was spatially expressed to create feeling of satisfaction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.85-100
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• 2019

This study examines changes in consumer perceptions of fashion shows, which are critical elements in the apparel industry and a means to represent a brand's image and originality. For this purpose, big data in clothing marketing, text mining, semantic network analysis techniques were applied. This study aims to verify the effectiveness and significance of fashion shows in an effort to give directions for their future utilization. The study was conducted in two major stages. First, data collection with the key word, "fashion shows," was conducted across websites, including Naver and Daum between 2015 and 2018. The data collection period was divided into the first- and second-half periods. Next, Textom 3.0 was utilized for data refinement, text mining, and word clouding. The Ucinet 6.0 and NetDraw, were used for semantic network analysis, degree centrality, CONCOR analysis and also visualization. The level of interest in "models" was found to be the highest among the perception factors related to fashion shows in both periods. In the first-half period, the consumer interests focused on detailed visual stimulants such as model and clothing while in the second-half period, perceptions changed as the value of designers and brands were increasingly recognized over time. The findings of this study can be utilized as a tool to evaluate fashion shows, the apparel industry sectors, and the marketing methods. Additionally, it can also be used as a theoretical framework for big data analysis and as a basis of strategies and research in industrial developments.