DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study on the Runway Displays of Fashion Houses Using Objet

오브제를 활용한 패션 하우스의 런웨이 디스플레이에 관한 연구

  • Jung, Minah (Dept. of Design & Craft, Graduate School, Hongik University) ;
  • Kan, Hosup (Dept. of Textile Art & Fashion Design, Hongik University)
  • 정민아 (홍익대학교 디자인 공예학과 의상학) ;
  • 간호섭 (홍익대학교 섬유미술.패션디자인과)
  • Received : 2020.03.22
  • Accepted : 2020.04.16
  • Published : 2020.05.30

Abstract

In the second half of the twentieth century, fashion shows were a long-standing promotional medium and changed form and styles as times changed. In the past, if a model were on the stage simply to showcase a brand's work, the stage would have been transformed into a more active space, displaying various performances or seasonal themes combined with art. Then in the 2000s, there was an increasing number of instances when the global fashion industry of used figurative objet in organizing a fashion show's stage. In particular, because fashion shows require audience response and satisfaction, producing displays using objet is an effective marketing method. In the early 2000s, many brands were already introducing runway displays using objet, and these cases are expected to increase further in the future. This collection of 23 ready-to-wear models, which constituted the runway display, was by utilizing the objet more than five times from the 485 brands listed in Vogue's runway category. Based on our previous research, we classified the objet expressive characteristics as reproducibility, simplicity, non-artificiality, and fantasy. Among the 207 collections that we analyzed, the collection that utilized objet in its runway display had 170 circuits. Using objet in the runway display leverages visual language which allows one to communicate the season's concept, brand identity, and desired message more easily. Futhermore, it was spatially expressed to create feeling of satisfaction.

Keywords

References

  1. 2016 F/W Christian Dior. (2016, March 4). Retrieved April 22, 2020, from https://www.thecut.com/2016/03/everything-you-need-to-know-dior-show-fall-2016.html
  2. 2016 S/S Coach. (2016, February). Retrieved November 3, 2019, from https://www.bizbash.com/local-venuesdestinations/new-york-city-tri-state-area/media-gallery/13481503/6-memorable-shows-from-new-york-fashion-week
  3. 2016 S/S Kenzo. (2015, October 5). Retrieved November 11, 2019, from https://www.yahoo.com/news/global-traveler-inspires-kenzo-next-spring-181525963.html
  4. 2016 S/S Miu Miu. (2015, October 9). Retrieved November 11, 2019, from https://www.dezeen.com/2015/10/09/amo-miu-miu-spring-summer-2016-catwalk-metallic-arches-paris-fashion-week/
  5. 2016 S/S Philipp Plein. (2015, September 24). Retrieved November 11, 2019, from https://www.elle.com/runway/g26949/philipp-plein-spring-2016-ready-to-wear-collection/
  6. 2017 F/W Chanel. (2017, March 13). Retrieved November 3, 2019, from https://bagaholicboy.com/2017/03/fall-winter-2017-womens-chanel-bags/
  7. 2017 S/S Coach. (n.d.). Retrieved November 13, 2019, from https://theenchantedboudoir.blogspot.com/2016/09/new-york-fashion-week-springsummer-2017_14.html
  8. 2017 S/S Marni. (2016, September 25.). Retrieved November 11, 2019, from https://footwearnews.com/2016/fashion/designers/marni-spring-2017-milan-fashion-week-photos-261595/
  9. 2017 F/W Ralph Lauren. (2017, September 13). Retrieved November 11, 2019, from https://www.nytimes.com/2017/09/13/fashion/ralph-lauren-coach-stuart-vevers-new-york-fashion-week.html
  10. 2017 F/W Saint Laurent. (2016, September 13). Retrieved November 13, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/saint-laurent/slideshow/atmosphere
  11. 2017 S/S Thom Browne. (n.d.). Retrieved December 2, 2019, from https://www.fashionsnap.com/collection/thom-browne-new-york/womens/2017ss/
  12. 2018 F/W Chanel. (2019, March 5). Retrieved November 3, 2019, from https://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/karl-lagerfeld-chanel-most-over-the-top-shows/
  13. 2018 F/W Gucci. (2018, February 26). Retrieved November 3, 2019, from https://www.infobae.com/vidriera/2018/02/26/valeria-mazza-y-su-familia-en-la-front-row-del-desfile-de-gucci/
  14. 2018 F/W Louis Vuitton. (2018, May 25). Retrieved December 2, 2019, from https://www.elle.vn/tin-thoi-trang/nicolas-o-lai-thuong-hieu-louis-vuitton
  15. 2018 F/W Marni. (n.d.). Retrieved November 13, 2019, from https://www.livingly.com/runway/Milan+Fashion+Week+Fall+2018/Marni/uPV9-v1IPaE
  16. 2018 F/W Philipp Plein. (n.d.). Retrieved November 11, 2019, from https://ko.depositphotos.com/208783334/stock-video-brooklyn-usa-february-2018-models.html
  17. 2019 F/W Chanel. (2019, March 5). Retrieved November 3, 2019, from https://www.flaunt.com/content/chanelfw-2019
  18. 2019 F/W Louis Vuitton. (2019, March 6). Retrieved December 2, 2019, from https://www.nytimes.com/2019/03/06/fashion/louis-vuitton-miu-miu-paris.html
  19. 2019 S/S Miu Miu. (2018, October 3). Retrieved November 11, 2019, from https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/fashionweeks/womenswear-ss-2019/paris/miu-miu-ss-2019-paris-fashion-week-womens
  20. 2019 F/W Tommy hilfiger. (2019, September 9). Retrieved November 3, 2019, from https://me.popsugar.com/fashion/Zendaya-x-Tommy-Hilfiger-Fashion-Week-Show-Fall-2019-46592803
  21. 2020 S/S Alexander McQueen. (2019, October 3). Retrieved March 5, 2020, from https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/top-collections-paris-fashion-week-150211204.html
  22. 2020 S/S Jacquemus. (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2020, from http://latexmagazine.com/bureau-betak-y-su-revolucion-en-el-arte-de-las-pasarelas/jacquemus-ss20/
  23. 2020 S/S Saint Laurent. (2019, December 13). Retrieved March 2, 2020, from https://www.whitewall.art/lifestyle/alexandre-de-betak-winter-2020-experience-issue-cover-story
  24. 2020 S/S Vetements. (2019, December 12). Retrieved March 10, 2020, from https://evoke.ie/2019/12/12/style/mcdonalds-releases-its-own-clothing-range
  25. Antonia, S. (2019, November 18). Are fashion shows still relevant? University of Fashion. Retrieved November 30, 2019, from https://www.universityoffashion.com
  26. Chioma, N. (2017, September 13). Ralph Lauren fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection. Vogue. Retrieved January 20, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com
  27. Finally, the universe. (2017, August 17). 기승전, 우주... 이젠 미래를 입는다 [Finally, the universe...Now I wear the future]. DongA.com. Retrieved January 5, 2020, from http://www.donga.com/news/article/all/20170817/85857091/1
  28. Han, A. R. (2013). Characteristic and methods of objects used in flagshipstore designs to express space and brand identity (Unpublished master's thesis). Konkuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  29. Hong, S. J., & Bae, S. J. (2018). A Design development for coat using expression technique of surrealism. Journal of Fashion Business, 22(1), 20-40. doi:10.12940/JFB.2018.22.1.20
  30. Hwang, H. M. (1999). 나도 패션쇼 연출가 [I'm a fashion show producer, too]. Seoul, Jungju.
  31. Hwang, G. Y. (2008). A study on fashion shows' stage design since 2000 (Unpublished master's thesis). Yeungnam University, Gyeongsan, Korea.
  32. Importance of fashion shows for entrepreneurs. (2017, March 11), Fashion Buzzer. Retrieved January 13, 2020, from https://fashionbuzzer.com
  33. Jang, A. H. (2002). The pop culture characteristics of modern fashion show: Focus on Pret-a-Porter collections after the mid of 1990s (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Kyunghee University, Seoul, Korea.
  34. Jang, H. S. (2010). Adolphe Appia's study of stage esthetic: A study on concepts of stage lighting (Unpublished master's thesis). Kyungsung University, Busan, Korea.
  35. Jeong, G. J. (2007). A study on the live performance set design for event space (Unpublished master's thesis). Konkuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  36. Kim, J. Y. (2006). A study on analysis method of Sceno grafia fashion show: Focused on 4 major international collections 2002 through 2006 (Unpublished master's thesis). Hongik University, Seoul, Korea.
  37. Kim, M. J., & Kan, H. S. (2013). A study of surrealistic physical distortion: focused on surrealism formativeness. Journal of Fashion Business, 17(5), 70-83. doi:10.12940/JFB.2013.17.5.70
  38. Kim, N. R. (2004). A study on the phenomenological approach to space in setting up relationships and expressions of space and objet (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Seoul National University, Seoul, Korea.
  39. Kim, S. H. (2011). Research on the space construction expression characteristic of fashion show stage design due to modeling principle (Unpublished master's thesis). Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul, Korea.
  40. Lee, G. Y. (2012). A study on the visual characteristics of fashion communication media (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Hongik University, Seoul, Korea.
  41. Lee, S. A. (2017). Characteristics of intermedia in contemporary fashion show (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Hanyang University, Seoul, Korea.
  42. Lee, W. W. (2000). Implied direction of fashion display based on object method (Unpublished master's thesis). Chung-Ang University, Seoul, Korea.
  43. Lim, D. Y. (2018). A study on the space planning of design hotel with objective expression characteristics (Unpublished master's thesis). Hongik University, Seoul, Korea.
  44. Liu, S., & Kwon, M. J. (2019). A study on spatial aesthetic characteristics in modern fashion converged with virtual reality technology: focusing on fashion shows, fashion exhibitions and fashion design apps. Journal of Fashion Business, 23(5), 96-110. doi:10.12940/JFB.2019.23.5.96
  45. Luke, L. (2015, September 24). Philipp Plein spring 2016 ready-to-wear collection. Vogue. Retrieved January 20, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com
  46. Maura, B. (2018, January 8). What fashion week is like for a set designer. Fashionista. Retrieved January 11, 2020, from https://fashionista.com
  47. Nicole, P. (2018, March 7). Louis Vuitton fall 2018 ready-to-wear collection. Vogue. Retrieved January 20, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com
  48. Okwodu, J. (2019, September 9). Tommy Now fall 2019 ready-to-wear collection. Vogue. Retrieved January 20, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com
  49. Park, H. J. (1997). The concept of objet in the art of the 20th century (Unpublished master's thesis). Chosun University, Gwangju, Korea.
  50. Sarah, M. (2015, October 7). Miu Miu spring 2016 ready-to-wear collection. Vogue. Retrieved January 20, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com
  51. Sarah, M. (2018b, February, 21). Gucci fall 2018 ready-to-wear collection. Vogue. Retrieved January 20, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com
  52. Sarah, M. (2018a, March, 6). Chanel fall 2018 ready-to-wear collection. Vogue. Retrieved January, 20, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com
  53. Sarah, M. (2019, June 21). Vetements spring 2020 mens wear collection. Vogue. Retrieved January 20, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com
  54. Shin. Y. O. (2005). An analysis of the characteristics and preference of fashion event spectators: focused on a fashion show (Unpublished master's thesis). Pai Chai University, Daejeon, Korea.
  55. Sin, Y. J. (2009). A study on the objective expression of Shiro Kuramata's space interior design (Unpublished master's thesis). Konkuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  56. Sung, Y. J. (2010). The design of a fashion storytelling technique and the utilization of characteristics for a fashion show (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Kyungpook National University, Daegu, Korea.
  57. Yun, S. R. (2001). A case study on fashion show stage setting (Unpublished master's thesis). Kookmin University, Seoul, Korea.

Cited by

  1. Expression Types of Modern Fashion Show Space from the Perspective of Pepper's Contextualism vol.24, pp.6, 2020, https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2020.24.6.46