• 패션비즈니스
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2024

Christopher Nemeth is a designer who combines characteristics of a pioneering upcycle design and deconstructionist design with fabrics, waste clothing, and pieces of fabric recycled in the 1980s. By hommaging his work from the Louis Vuitton 2015 F/W collection, Kim Jones is once again becoming a source of design inspiration in an era where upcycling fashion is attracting attention. Accordingly, an upcycling design approach might appeal to the MZ generation. Christopher Nemes' design presented in this study as a representative fashion designer of dismantling upcycling is basically based on dismantling. It can also be interpreted as dismantling upcycling design because it uses used clothing, waste clothing, and discarded fabrics as materials. This study examined main techniques of upcycling fashion design and derived characteristics of Nemes design as "deconstructive techniques using free lines of construction," "recycling upcycling vintage materials and clothing accessories," and "using handcrafted techniques of artistic sensibility." By applying Nemes' dismantling upcycling technique, four designs were developed for men's top and bottom sets for targets in their 20s and 30s to suggest the commercialization possibility. This study is meaningful in that it proposes a methodical alternative to the new deconstructionist upcycling design that can show Nemes' aesthetic characteristics, creative perspective, and personality by modernly reinterpreting the deconstructionist upcycling technique extracted through analysis of fashion designer Christopher Nemes' design. In particular, by actually producing the work and confirming whether the design technique can be implemented, the value as a fashion product that can be sold is realized.

• 복식
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.147-156
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• 2001

The painting style has much influenced on the creativity of design in the developmental process of modern fashion. This fact tells that pure art and fashion design have the same purpose in the end. In this paper. the color Autonomy of Matisse was analyzed and how its result influences on modern fashion design was investigated. Matisse is, in fact. the leader of Fauvism and the painter who brought the Fauvism painting to its perfection in the purest state. Matisse achieved the revolution of new color with only the color in expressing formative factor. Matisse's color autonomy are fusion technique, flatness, decoration, simplicity, etc. To sum up the influence that this autonomy played on modern fashion design, intensive pure color expression, strongly-supplemented color effect among primary colors, decoration of color, simplicity of color, that is to say. he gave rise to the revolution of color, Many modern designers are applying this method to the theme of fashion and motive, color the technique of expression. Thanks to this. the new formative artistic expression could be adapted in fashion, and it also induced the inspiration of original design, with great contribution to bringing the era of its own distinct individualism in modern times.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2019

Appropriation is of considerable significance in a cultural trend of thought, as one of the means of realizing the post-modernism period. With the increasing use of appropriation techniques in modern fashion, it is necessary to study the external performance and internal aesthetic value of appropriation in fashion. In the book of cultural appropriation, American scholar James o young divides into three categories of appropriation in culture, namely: object appropriation, content appropriation, and subject appropriation. Based on James O Young's three types of appropriation techniques summarized in the theory of the cultural appropriation, the purpose of this study is through the appropriation of the poncho of traditional Mexican clothing in modern fashion as an example; analyzing the external appropriation characteristics and internal aesthetic significance of different appropriation type. The results are as follows. First, designers take the Originality in modern fashion by expressing Mexican Poncho's form, color, pattern, and material as it is through object appropriation technique. Second, through the Mexican folk poncho's style, designers used these to show the similarity produced by content appropriation in modern fashion. Third, designers used the poncho's design concept or poncho's culture, blending the theme of the collection, adding different color, pattern or materials such as fur, lace, and wool, and presenting a new image different from folk costumes through creative subject appropriation technique.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권8호
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• pp.1153-1164
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to find out the creative visual expression in fashion illustration through the previous general theories on creativity. The creative visual expression, in fashion illustration works, can be summarized eight categories as follows. There are 'maximization & minimization'to emphasize the illustrators'emotions and contemporary trends, proposed specially in body expression, 'inversion' seen as the forms of contra-perspective, upside-down, rearrangement of parts, diverted process, etc, 'Unusual uses'to add the effect of caricature, parody, and humor to the fashion illustration works, 'extraordinary connection'seen as the shapes of various combination between animals, plants, stuff, and man, 'concealment & elimination'used frequently in creative visual expression includes a deformed human body, an abstracted human body, an extreme value contrast, simple colors, and dress in silhouette, 'association'seen in various methods; comparing the similar shapes, describing a certain situation or details for analogizing the whole, ‘illusion’ expressed in surreal, mysterious, and fairy depictions and 'substitution'to imitate the composition and colors of masterpieces, copy the parts.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.880-896
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• 2004

Trompe l'Oeil technique strategically conceived with a view to effectively realize creative ideas among the expression techniques of fine arts style has provided the driving force in development of fine arts and has continuously influenced development of the modem fashion pursuing unique individuality. The study is focused first on finding out how Trompe l'Oeil technique originated in connection with researching the fashion of Trompe l'Oeil and on analysing the technique of expression. The author referred to fashion magazines for designing ideas of Trompe l'Oeil represented in modem fashion in practical applications used by designers in Paris, Italy, London and New York during the 10 year period(1990-1999). The collections of data were analyzed as following: Effectiveness depending on the method of Trompe l'Oeil I. Effectiveness of Layering: when two clothing are over lapped or coordinated with one another in color or style. 2. Effectiveness of Detailing: when pictures, stitch, tape, cutting, quilting and etc are used to create collar, pocket, yoke, zipper, string, shadow and etc. 3. Effectiveness of Accessories: when the image of necklace, belt, tie, tassel, badges and stars are represented by illustration or embroidery on clothing to substitute the actual existence. 4. Effectiveness of Nudity: when human body is realistically drawn and printed on clothing.

• 복식
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• 제65권2호
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• pp.92-104
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• 2015

Colored thread quilting is sewed up padded with Han-Ji (한지, korean paper) string using colored thread. This showed up geometric pattern with repeated line of straight, diagonal, curve. According to geometric pattern, Colored thread quilting showed visual effects. The purpose of this study is to present manufacturing techniques, kinds, use, shape of traditional colored thread quilting. furthermore, This study has produced fashion items that can be used in modern life by using techniques of colored thread quilting. According to the fashion items, It present succession and utilization of techniques of colored thread quilting. This study was conducted in the following manner First, It studied traditional colored thread quilting techniques through the documents consideration, previous researches and by surveying antiquity in the museum. 2nd, It tried to make a reproduction about techniques of traditional colored thread quilting. 3rd, This study has selected and developed item and design of fashion items that can be used pragmatically in modern life by using techniques of colored thread quilting. And Fashion items that have been produced in this study is a total 10 kinds that was composed of Vest 4ea, Pendant & Brooch 6ea. Colored thread quilting is a unique technique of thread quilting that combines powerful practicality with decorativeness only in korea. These technique hope that it can developed more variety of items in modern life.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.304-314
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• 2023

The rapid development of digital technology is diversifying the fashion industry by influencing both the manufacturing processes and the characteristics of fashion products. Although various smart clothing technologies are being developed as part of the government's technology development policy, the number of smart clothing products available to consumers in stores remains very limited. To address this issue, this study analyzes the key attributes of smart clothing as expressed in consumer language. The CIT (Critical Incident Technique) research method was used, and data were collected through an online survey. The study focuses on identifying potential factors that may influence the development direction or strategy of smart clothing. By classifying past experiences and attitudes towards smart clothing into positive and negative categories, it was found that positive responses to smart clothing were heavily influenced by expectations from technology and convenience. Participants' experience with smart technology has had a positive impact on their evaluation of smart clothing. Consumers with negative attitudes towards smart clothing expressed expectations for new benefits resulting from technological development, and indicated that they would consider purchasing such clothing in the future when design and technology improve. Ultimately, this study provides a valuable reference for the development of smart clothing products in Korea by analyzing consumer experiences and acceptance conditions towards smart clothing.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.221-236
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to the development of creative fashion culture through the expansion of creative fields in the fashion design area and also the combination of fashion and art techniques, by classifying the cases of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion, and also analyzing its aesthetic characteristics. Conducting the qualitative research through the literature study and the analysis of design cases, it targeted the women's wear collections of Paris, Milan, London, and New York, limiting its range from S/S 2010 to F/W 2015. The results are as follows: First, based on the preceding research, the types of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion were shown as realistic expression of clothing, movement of daily objects, double images, and application of human body. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ based on its expression types were deconstruction, avant-garde, and amusements. The deconstruction was expressed in the expression type of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ such as freedom of materials using digital printing technique, change in the position of clothes, and movement of daily items using collage technique by collecting objets like daily items or waste. The avant-garde was expressed by switching/overlapping in and out of clothes, intentionally exposing some body parts like breast or torso, displacing body parts, and moving daily items. The amusements was shown by realistically expressing accessories or details of clothes using digital printing technique, or moving daily items such as book and fork.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권8호
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• pp.1252-1261
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to grasp the utilization of traditional Korean Patterns used for fashion cultural products. To achieve this purpose, this study examined the range of fashion cultural products through literature review, previous researches, and market surveys and analyzed the situation of fashion cultural products and the kinds, expression methods, expression techniques, and repeat styles of utilized patterns. The analysis results are as follows. First, in the use of traditional pattern, the most frequently-used fashion cultural products were small and inexpensive accessories, followed by fashion apparel, miscellaneous goods, and living cultural goods. Second, the most frequently-used traditional patterns were plant patterns, especially flower patterns. The next frequently-used ones were mixed patterns, especially in the mixture of flower and letter patterns, and $cloisonn\'{e}$ and flower patterns. The next frequently-used traditional patterns were animal patterns(especially butterfly patterns), followed by geometric patterns, lucky omen patterns, and letter patterns. In the expression methods of used patterns, most products except handicrafts preferred simplified patterns to real patterns. Finally, in the expression techniques of traditional patterns, the most frequently used technique was traditional embroidery, followed by the use of weaving fabrics such as fine gauze and brocade which are used for Hanbok. Also, transfer dyeing which is one of printing techniques, DTP(digital textiles printing), a mixed technique which adds embroidery to weaving fabrics, hand-painting, and a gilt technique were used. The results of this study suggest that most fashion cultural products except few designers' works attached weight to some specified patterns and expression techniques regardless of the characteristics of products since there is little understanding of a variety of patterns and are few researches and development on expression techniques.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.