• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.773-786
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• 2017

The current study aims to analyze the process of fabric production planning in Dongdaemun Market, which is a successful model case industrial integration in South Korea. We followed the changes in perception among fabric experts, regarding their recognition of fashion trends, and the following planning and process of fabric production. We used the purpose sampling method to select participants for interview in the Dongdaemun Market, then we carried out one-to-one interviews. Our analysis reveals 4 points of importance. First, the fabric planning stage either employed the trend book swatch, or simply reused the model fabrics already available. Even though the experts felt the need to accept the latest fashion trends, very few considered the trends as positive influences in fabric planning. Whereas trend was a key element in identifying the flow of the fashion industry, there were obstacles in carrying out the study. Second, experts frequently participated in domestic fabric seminars, but not in textile exhibitions. Third, domestic and overseas market research has been performed typically at department stores, and typically at Japan. Fourth, the influx of Chinese fabrics has both positive and negative influences, such as low price, and low reliability. In conclusion, experts were less amenable to accepting the latest fashion trends. pre-requisites in real life to meet the use of the current trend of each company. More studies on the Dongdaemun Market from perspectives of practitioners are warranted.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.1103-1113
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• 2009

Now in the 21st century, all the industries in our world are rapidly changing, including fashion trends and customers' needs as well. Fashion textile planning is also developing towards the direction where it could satisfy the merged sensitivity and incentive of the customers through an idea. The purpose of this study is to accentuate the importance of fashion material planning in fitting conventional patterns and eco-benign fabric materials. Accordingly, this study is mainly focused on the reflection of fabric planning characteristics to show tradition containing comfort and naturalness. As mixing with established fabrics and blending with natural/functional fabrics, and conforming to the trend of the seasonal fabric, it has developed a new structure and pattern by changing the basic source of traditional patterns to a computer aided design system. Therefore, four different types of items were basically up-graded by fitting it in with traditional patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.3 s.9
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• pp.45-49
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• 2006

Silk Industry doesn't have enough strategic ability to plan the product for internal and external strong competition and global luxury trend in Jinju. To provide silk fashion planning information and planning method, this study investigated the fabric planning system, such as product system and problems, the method of seeking information, via questionnaires for 68 Jinju silk companies. The results were that the Korean traditional garment, Han-bok and lining of that were given more wight in Jinju Silk for domestic, and the next, neckties. These silk had produced by OEM and didn't have almost my planning ability, but nowadays buyers wanted to get some planning ideas from manufactures, not giving any planning guideline before production, more and more. For Jinju Silk Fabric Companies, planning direction of silk fabrics of vision were needed, that had to be adaptable to manufacture situation and applicable to market.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.97-111
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• 2020

Classifying clothing fabrics into fashion images lacks research, but is necessary due to the short cycle of fashion and rapidly changing modern trends as consumers seek to satisfy various needs with an increase of online purchases. There is also a lack of research on fashion trend books which attach real fabrics. Therefore, this study aims to help the planning field by recognizing fabric sensibility related to the fabric image perceived by consumers. The data analysis results from descriptive statistics, t-test, and ANOVA using SPSS are as follows: Differences in the visual tactility evaluation related to the consumer recognized fabric images showed more significant differences in F/W seasons. The elegance image was shown as relatively thick, the avant-garde image was shown as relatively heavy, thick fabric. The feminine image was shown as relatively thin and smooth fabric, the sporty images were shown to be moist, flexible and elastic, and the mannish images were relatively rough. The romantic images were shown as relatively thin fabrics. The conclusions inferred from the visual tactile evaluation related to the fabric images recognized by consumers vary by major, so the prior information concerning fabrics and trends can affect the selection of images. The results of this study show that in order to produce clothes suitable for fashion product planning by learning about visual tactility that consumers recognize, fabrics component data displayed in fashion trend books from 2016 to 2018 are needed, so the planner can receive help when selecting the fabrics suitable for each trend.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.142-156
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• 2016

Convergence of IT devices and fashion is enabling the industry to take fully different approaches in various areas including product planning, fabric selecting, distributing, and marketing. At the same time, it also transforms the definition of clothing itself. Convergence of IT technologies in the realm of fashion and textiles industries can create a powerful synergy through connection digital devices, such as mobile phone. In this context, this study attempts to suggest how IT technology can be efficiently harnessed through the usage of mobile devices in the planning stage of fashion materials, where the initial production plan of a clothing item is mapped out. This study ultimately aims to enhance the effectiveness of databases on fashion material information by using mobile devices to utilize NFC, an RFID technology having as much revolutionary power as Internet - which can be the convergence between IT and fashion across the software dimensions. To pursue this research, data on fashion material information regarding 200 woven fabric specimens were provided by textile companies. The information includes elements such as its composition, weight, width, yarn, density and sales report. These pieces of information were organized into a database. Drawing on this data, Android-based applications that allow smart phones to read off fabric information from NFC tags were developed for this study using two methods. The system works as follows: 1. NFC tag stickers are attached onto the hangers where 200 fabric samples are hanging. 2. The NFC tag stickers are tagged, or read off from a smart phone that support NFC functions. 3. Upon tagging, the Smart phone swiftly displays all information available on its screen - not only the aforementioned six elements, but also the image of the clothing item from the fabric in its finalized product form, and the video of the model wearing the item - for convenient view. The method harbors immense potential for the fashion industry in general, and will also be useful in those fields inside the industry that harness NFC technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.62-74
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• 2015

The purpose of this research is to analyse the process of development and verification of 'National Competency Standards' of Hanbok production, which was carried out in 2013 for the fashion industry. As the result of this research, the definition of the duty in Hanbok production is 'to conduct a series of step-by-step processes of planning and developing fabric and design, then making pattern, cutting fabric and sewing.' The competency unit for Hanbok production is analyzed in 10 categories: analysis of market trends, design plan, production and manipulation of fabric, production process plan, sample making, pattern making, cutting out, sewing, finishing sewing, inspection of the product quality. Competency unit elements of each competency unit are as follows. 1) analysis of market trends: to research market trend resources, to analyse consumers' buying trend, to analyse industry changes, 2) design plan: to develop design, to plan fabrication, to draw flats, 3) production and manipulation of fabric: to develop fabric planning, to prepare fabric manipulation, to conduct fabric manipulation, 4) production process plan: to grasp design, to plan sewing method, to prepare a specification sheet, 5) sample making: to make a sample pattern, to cut sample fabrics, to sew sample, to finish sample making, 6) pattern making: to measure body, to make production pattern, to adjust production pattern, 7) cutting out: to care fabrics, to lay out patterns, to cut out fabrics, 8) sewing: to sew a garment, to sew a lining, to attach a lining, 9) finishing sewing: to neaten edges, to attach trims, to press to finish, 10) inspection of the product quality: to confirm correspondence with the specification sheet, to inspect appearance.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.129-142
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• 2013

Fabrics created unique features through the change in various ways depending on the elements including fabric structure, threads, thickness, weaving, patterns and processing. This study examined the difference between texture and image depending on components of fabrics. In order to understand the trend of components of fabrics, the actual components of fabrics was analyzed by year, using the women's apparel trend books, Nelly Rodi Fabrics and Promostyl Fabrics. This study analyzed Spring/Summer season and Fall/Winter season from 2002 to 2012. Frequency analysis, cross-tabulation analysis, multiple response cross tabulation analysis were implemented using SPSS 18.0. The followings are the analysis results. For fabric composition, Spring/Summer season used cotton fabric the most. Cotton fabric accounted for relatively high usage in 2005, 2007 and 2008. Fall/Winter season used wool the most in 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005. In case of fiber blend by fabric composition, cotton was blended with other fibers in Spring/Summer season except wool. The fiber blending ratio of wool was the highest in Fall/Winter season. Wool was blended in most fabrics. More than two patterns were mixed for fabric patterns. The fabric patterns were applied the most in 2012. For fabric processing, the fabrics by sensitivity-functional processing were continuously used every year and the surface finish showed relatively high usage in 2002 and 2011. In conclusion, this study will build the systematic data for 11 years including fabric trends in the past. It can improve specialization, systematization and efficiency in fabric planning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.53-61
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to classify the characteristics of color communication tools and the color range applied in the Korean fashion industry. To collect the color sample and related references, a questionnaire was distributed during the time period, December, 1995 to June, 1996. From the responses, 2641 color samples used by 109 domestic brands, from 1993 spring/summer to 1996 spring/summer, were collected and analyzed. The data was measured by L*a*b*, and the H V/C formula found in the Munsell notation was used to calculate the data. To classify the color range served for the fashion industry, the distribution of colors are analyzed by difference of season and fabric. The results of this study are as follows : 1. Dominant colors in the Korean fashion industry are Red, Yellow-red, Yellow, purple-blue and low chromatic range colors. 2. While high value colors, such as pale, light greyish, light, dull, dark and vivid tone colors, are dominant in the spring/summer season, low value colors, such as greyish, dark greyish. and deep tone colors and warm colors such as Red, Yellow-red, are prevalent in the fall/winter season. 3. The number of colors commonly used for color planning is less than 20 colors, and both hue and tone are considered important when making color selections. 4. All brands take consumers' color preferences into consideration for color planning, and most of them also take color trends into account. 5. Hue and tone color characteristics analyzed by types of fabrics show more seasonal influence than the fabric itself.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.29-38
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• 2009

Natural dyes seem to be more profitable on human and environment, and recently they could be considered as a better alternative to synthesized dyes. The aim of the current work was to investigate the dyeing property and antimicrobial activity of commercial cotton fabrics dyed with kumazasa (usually called in japan) which is known as conventional japan bamboo leaves. Actually, the dyeability and antimicrobial property of dyed fabric with natural mordant/dyeing was compared with synthetic mordant/dye process. The results of this study obtained are as follows. The apparently colour of kumazasa leaves extract dyed fabrics showed with light green or slightly yellow-green. In colorfastness to washing, ${\Delta}E$ and K/S values of dyed fabrics with natural chitosan as mordant used was shown to be more excellent results, than was synthetic mordant used. However, the decrease rate was recorded nearly 50% when washing repeated 20 cycles. In result of antimicrobial effect for bacteria, the dyed fabrics didn't show the significant antimicrobial activity to the both dyed with and without mordant. Results of this investigation considered that low-cost, natural, bio-mordant are relatively effective in natural coloration.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.952-964
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• 2007

This study is about the design for environment which is central social interest in recent days. This study focused on both experimental designs which convey meanings and practical designs which can be produced within the fashion industry and then influence on the wide range of consumer, human and surrounding environment. The purposes of this study are to categorize national and global fashion designs for environment, to analyze data based on the fashion pipeline from planning to discard, to suggest systematic actions, and to establish fashion design for environment model. Through these processes, this study helps in making fashion designs for environment more understandable, and demonstrates one future direction for using environment as fashion industry's innovative strategy. This study attempts to create business and at the same time suggests design actions based on social belief. The results of this study are following. Fashion designs for environment were categorized by organic fabric, new-to-the-world fabric, reduce, multi-function, reproduce, order-made, recycle, and reuse. The results show that fashion designs for environment have been implemented throughout the fashion pipeline, and applied the concepts of design for environment including green, sustainable slow, and natural design principles. Furthermore, labelling and service from supply side, green purchasing from demand side, and integration from both sides are suggested as company's and society's systematic actions.