Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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제30권8호
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pp.1301-1311
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2006
This study rearranged a concept of Friday wear considered as casual wear by searching social background through analysis of literature study and photo materials and classifying by characteristics of casual wear. It investigated growing changes of casual wear and the progress of changes casual brands through a market survey based on departments in Seoul. And then, it examined characteristics of a design and the critical point of easy casual selecting GIORDANO, TBJ and NII of three easy casual brands. Conclusions of the study are as follows: Firstly, present casual wear showed subdivision of casual wear as abundant grouping vocabularies appeared contrary to the past. Secondly, easy casual wear has continuously increased by results of investigating departments in Seoul on the progress of changing easy casual wear brand including the concept of Friday wear. Thirdly, if a main target sets the early 20s, women workers in their 20's and 30's are likely to be reluctant to wear it according to results of investigating designs and characteristics based on GIORDANO, TBJ and NII of existing three easy casual brands through the market survey. Also, it was verified that most of these brands have no a luxurious image because they adhere to middle-low price. Fourthly, it improved problems of easy casual through developing designs of easy casual wear. Easy casual wear supplementing weak these points of easy casual wear was evaluated as suitable clothes for workers to wear in on and off their own time in Friday.
In this study, to verify the effectiveness of the persona-type consumer analysis data service, a study was conducted focusing on the consumer analysis service use case of www.ethno-mining.com. The case was targeted at the 'Small Business Design Difficulty Resolving Support Project' of the Gangwon Institute of Design Promotion. The progress of this study was to develop a questionnaire to measure the user satisfaction and effectiveness of the service, study the consumer analysis data of the persona method of the www.ethno-mining.com system, study related theories, compare similar services, and conduct questionnaires; The results were analyzed and tested. In the result of testing the participants in the 'Small Business Design Difficulty Resolving Support Project' of the Gangwon Design Promotion Institute, the persona-style consumer analysis data got a positive response in terms of user satisfaction, and a regression that measures the effectiveness of the service on the company's R&D In the analysis, it was found that there are practical effects for companies by reducing time, reducing costs, smooth communication between developers, securing expertise in consumer analysis, and improving the overall quality of R&D during R&D.
This paper aims to investigate 4D printing materials for soft robots. 4D printing is a targeted evolution of the 3D printed structure in shape, property, and functionality. It is capable of self-assembly, multi-functionality, and self-repair. In addition, it is time-dependent, printer-independent, and predictable. The shape-shifting behaviors considered in 4D printing include folding, bending, twisting, linear or nonlinear expansion/contraction, surface curling, and generating surface topographical features. The shapes can shift from 1D to 1D, 1D to 2D, 2D to 2D, 1D to 3D, 2D to 3D, and 3D to 3D. In the 4D printing auxetic structure, the kinetiX is a cellular-based material design composed of rigid plates and elastic hinges. In pneumatic auxetics based on the kirigami structure, an inverse optimization method for designing and fabricating morphs three-dimensional shapes out of patterns laid out flat. When 4D printing material is molded into a deformable 3D structure, it can be applied to the exoskeleton material of soft robots such as upper and lower limbs, fingers, hands, toes, and feet. Research on 4D printing materials for soft robots is essential in developing smart clothing for healthcare in the textile and fashion industry.
As the shoes industry has been strengthened due to the contemporary fashion industry becoming segmented more and more, it is necessary to provide the basic data for the shoes industry through more in-depth research on the relevant fields. Accordingly, this study investigated the research trends related to shoes in Korea on the aspect of the publication methods, research contents and research methodologies for identifying the existing research status. In accordance with the analysis, the researches had been published since 2015 and presented by one author or two co-authors. The authors of researches were mostly affiliated to the colleges. Thus, it was identified that the professional research should be implemented in cooperation with the industry. For the research contents, the researches related to the shoes industry focused on the 21st century in the period field and marketing and design in the theme field. Then, it is required to investigate the converged interdisciplinary themes in wider areas in more diverse periods. Next, the case study accounted for the highest ratio in the methodology. Moreover, the methodology applied per theme showed the significant difference. Accordingly, the researches need to be conducted through more diverse viewpoints and methodologies. In case of the difference per research type, the significant difference was found only in the research approaches. Furthermore, the specific methodology was preferred per theme regardless of the research types. Then, it was found that the methodology played the significant role in the researches on the shoes industry.
Purpose - This study seeks to investigate the determinants of global sourcing intention in clothing sewing industry, in particular with its focus on women's knit wear production. Design/methodology/approach - This study collected a unique set of qualitative data through 31 in-depth interviews with fashion brands, promotion agencies, and sewing factories between July 2023 and October 2023. In addition, it analyzed the dataset using the MAXQDA to complement the research findings. Findings - We have two findings. First, the interviewees commonly mentioned the following factors as reasons for considering global sourcing: the human factors(aging of skilled technicians and labor shortages), the financial factors(gap in production unit prices at home and abroad), the relational factors(lack of novelty), and the physical factors(loss of production infrastructure and network), while the human factors(skilled workforce), the production factors(delivery date and product quality), and the relational factors(timely communication and mutual trust) as reasons for continuing domestic sourcing. Additional code analysis of interview also supports this finding. On the other hand, there was also a subtle difference between buyers(brands) and suppliers(promotion agencies and processing plants), and buyers consider the exact delivery date critical so that they could see trend-sensitive women's knit wear on time, and suppliers took production costs, labor costs, and labor shortages, which are financial factors, more seriously. Research implications or Originality - This study provides a richer and more balanced view of existing literature, which has generally tended to introduce global sourcing across the clothing industry despite the existence of various diversity within the industry. In addition, through qualitative research, we introduce that the sewing industry is carried out according to complex factors, and by revealing and categorizing the determinants of global sourcing, we supplement the existing research on the clothing sewing industry centered on survey. On a practical note, this study introduces that there is a difference in view of domestic sourcing and global sourcing between buyers(brands) and suppliers(promotion agencies and sewing factories), suggesting practical implications for revitalizing networks and deriving win-win cooperation network models among members in the future.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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제35권12호
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pp.1454-1465
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2011
Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men's body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men's data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men's body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men's body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape.
Design is a key factor that determines the competitiveness of products in the textile and fashion industry. It is very important to measure the similarity of the proposed design in order to prevent unauthorized copying and to confirm the originality. In this study, a deep learning technique was used to quantify features from images of textile designs, and similarity was measured using Spearman correlation coefficients. To verify that similar samples were actually detected, 300 images were randomly rotated and color changed. The results of Top-3 and Top-5 in the order of similarity value were measured to see if samples that rotated or changed color were detected. As a result, the VGG-16 model recorded significantly higher performance than did AlexNet. The performance of the VGG-16 model was the highest at 64% and 73.67% in the Top-3 and Top-5, where similarity results were high in the case of the rotated image. appear. In the case of color change, the highest in Top-3 and Top-5 at 86.33% and 90%, respectively.
This research proposes the on-stage costumes for the play Hamlet of Shakespeare performed by Yunheedan Guhri Pae - the Street Theater Troupe. Stage costumes have an important role in displaying the characteristics of each characters to the audience and has big visual effects. However, in order to design the costumes in the object viewpoints of the audience, the survey on the images of the characters who had actually watched the performance was taken place and proposed the costume design according to the results of the survey. Hamlet a: This result was applied to propose a sweater in black color, black leather pants and vest. Hamlet b: This result was applied to propose hooded coat in purple in middle level of brightness and color spectrum and yellow coat. For free image, loose pants in blue and vest in the same color tone were proposed. Gertrude a: This result was applied to use purple (violet) with reddish tone to propose the formation of a dress applying tailored suit. Gertrude b: This result was applied to propose purple gown and the one-piece dress with black laces. Ophelia a: This result was applied to propose feminine white dress and cape in purple color tone. Ophelia b: This result was applied to propose dyed and weaved clothes. Through the surveys as above, the images of each character was driven in adjectives, and using the results driven from the brightness, coloration, and color, color images were proposed. Only one costume cannot make up for the stage costumes and because it exists as an element of stage production, it is true that costumes are limited in some areas. However, that limit can become the motive of the costume. There is a limit, which the designer cannot produce the costumes as he or she had designed but I believe it is the center of the on-stage customers to display the characteristics of the characters according to the given concept. The limit of this research is the fact that because the costumes were designed so they fit the conditions already given, thus it was difficult to regard the process of designing and producing the costume as a project done according to the interaction. And in the future, if it is possible, I wish for the joint research with the people responsible for stage art to take place as a practical stage art. It was possible to produce practical costume since they were produced for actual performance and the production of costumes considering the dance steps, line of flow, and acting, was able to reduce the trial and error on stage. Through this research, I felt that the understanding and smooth interaction on diverse other areas not limited to the costume design should be taken place and believe that this was a research that proposes new research method since there had been only a few previous research regarding the on-stage costumes for actual performances. Therefore, this research had depended on the surveys given to the audiences to endow objectivity, however, I wish this research can contribute to defining effective process and methods for the on-stage costumes with more active researches with diverse methods and in diverse areas. I am sorry that the costume production for all the characters and all the scenes in Hamlet couldn't be done due to many limitations. As the following research assignment, I am planning on designing the costumes for all the scenes.
The purpose of this study is the structural relations will be examined among the VMD image of clothe stores, emotional reactions of brand awareness, brand image, brand attitude, and purchase intention. An empirical study in experimental design was conducted to female college students in their twenties, who made a huge influential group in the fashion industry, by considering the VMD characteristics of clothing shops. It measured the effects of VMD based on the changes to the consumer attitude before and after the VMD renewals, the correlations between brand recognition and VMD, and the influences of VMD on brand recognition and image, which were considered as important factors in creating brand assets. The research findings were as follows: 1. There were differences in emotional reactions according to the VMD image changes before and after renewal. Considering that the consumers recognized the VMD changes before and after renewal and showed different emotional reactions, the VMD image seems to be a major variable affecting their emotions. 2. As for the changes to the VMD image and brand image before and after renewal, the consumers recognized the VMD changes before and after renewal and consequently recognized the brad images differently, which implies that brand image can vary according to the effects of VMD renewal and changes to the VMD image.
Illegal reproductions and subsequent copyright infringement have curtailed development of digital content industry. Many DRM systems have been developed and utilized for this purpose. However, current DRM system allow only authorized user to access the contents, and as such, redistribution to other user without getting license again entails cumbersome process. Currently, super-distribution system which can be used for redistribution of downloaded contents in more streamlined fashion is being widely conducted. But for streaming type content, it is still very difficult to redistribute with super-distribution system because the client must directly connect to streaming server to access the content. Accordingly, a new DRM streaming service structure is required to allow streamed contents to be redistributed as easily as the downloaded contents. In this paper, we proposed the relay file structure that can connect the streaming server and the user for super-distribution of the streaming contents.
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