• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.540-551
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• 2019

This study analyzes a new fashion phenomenon for critical fashion. Critical fashion is a message-centered fashion that delivers consciousness and sociocultural issues for contemporary society. The research method for this study combined literature reviews and case studies along with a research scope, that reviewed aspects of critical fashion through works, presentations, and images of collections, various media, and joint projects from the 2000s to the present day. This study indicates that critical fashion exhibits a conceptual pattern that metaphorically expresses the message of designers' perspectives on society and the fashion system. Critical fashion designers' socially critical messages began to emerge in avant-garde fashion influenced by avant-garde art movement that then developed into a conceptual fashion heavily influenced by conceptual art movement before it evolves into concepts of critical fashion. Critical fashion has been influenced by community-oriented critical art, which signifies that the characteristic of criticism of an art system is expressed through the language of fashion. In conclusion, critical fashion resists the idea of the integration of a cultural industry whose homogeneity is continuously collapsing the differences for the purpose of consumption and challenges to the established fashion system.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.29-43
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• 2015

This study investigates transformable designs in contemporary fashion. In contemporary society, designs are accompanied by various changes such as transformation of shapes or variation of material beyond the certain form of dress. As a result of having interest in transformable designs with the various attempts on the overall design, transformable design is being suggested as an attempt as the new manner, radical concept, or alternative of multi-purpose lifestyle. With the constant research and collection presentation by the designers of empirical disposition, transformable dress has been evolving gradually. The feature of transformable design appeared in dress is considered as 'variability' which changes in the flow of time. Furthermore, the morphological variability and variability of material have been examined as visual stimuli and conversion of material. By analyzing and assorting diverse transformable dresses comprehensively, it could be divided into technique-oriented transformable design and transformable design with a wearer's intervention. The technique-oriented transformable design is subdivided into the conversion of material and the conversion of form; the transformable design with a wearer's intervention into the conversion of functional frame and the conversion of aesthetic feature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.73-89
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• 2016

This study aimed to develop an education program for fashion design that can deliver knowledge and techniques to enhance the capability of participatory fashion designers. The framework for education program was established based on the RP (Rapid Prototype) model, and the developing process of education program was structured and systemized. As a result, this study proposed the circulated RP-ISD model, which is designed to revise and complement the educational objectives, strategy and evaluation tool by iterative prototype, and purposed to be consistent in carrying out the instructional systems design. Furthermore, the systematic developing process and the assessment criteria of design education program for ten weeks was proposed. This result could be used as a base study of participatory fashion design and contribute to systemization of education programs in design field. Furthermore, it could foster the possibility of an alternative education model in fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.893-912
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• 2017

Crowdsourcing models in which organizaions obtain needed product ideas and services from a crowd in a network-based society are rising as a global industry trend. The purpose of this study was to figure out the types and characteristics of crowdsourcing design shown in the domestic fashion brands, and to provide implications for design strategies using crowdsourcing. This study was based on qualitative research which was brand case studies on crowdsourcing design in the fashion industry from January 2006 to July 2017. Also, quantitative analysis using frequency and percentage was applied. The results were as follows: First, crowdsourcing design was used in almost all types of fashion brands, such as sports and outdoor wear, men's wear, women's wear, men's and women's casual wear, shoes, bags, school uniforms, jeans, accessories, etc. Crowdsourcing design in the fashion industry was classified into three types: crowdsourcing graphics and artwork; crowdsourcing customized designs; and crowdsourcing product designs. Of the three types, crowdsourcing graphics and artwork was used most. There were four methods to choose the best crowsourced design: review only by experts, voting by crowd and review by experts, crowdvoting, and crowdfunding. Second, the characteristics of crowdsourcing design were openness, participation, reward and acknowledgement, sharing and interaction, and individualized collective intelligence. Crowdsourcing design could be used as an open innovation strategy in the fashion industry, which could collect new and creative design ideas for product development, resulting in the satisfaction of consumers and benefitting the company.

• Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
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• autumn
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• pp.92-94
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• 2004

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.51-53
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• 2004

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.66-68
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• 2004

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.24-32
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to understand characteristic of expression in Korean style fashion design and investigated Korean style fashion design's deployment and design idea method as well as its esthetic value. The photographs for the research were selected from fashion collections during S/S 2003-F/W 2007 by four specialists in the department of textile and then analyzed with 288 final data. The results were as followings. First, the characteristics of design expression in Korean style fashion design were formation by separating partial shape from the whole, formation by shape's separation and repetition, and connecting formation by combination and transformation of parts. In the case of color, they were direct expression, contrasting formative expression, and gradual changing expression. In the case of pattern, they were the methods of filling, filling & emptying, and partial filling. Second, the deployments of Korean style fashion design were adding modern elements to traditional things, combining traditional elements and modern things, and adding traditional elements to modern things. The third, Korean style fashion design's idea methods were weaving, snatching, adding, and changing. Fourth, it was shown that esthetic values of Korean style fashion design were the interactive organism by building organic relationship, the optimum expressing beauty with minimum elements, the palpitation having dynamics and rhythmical beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.513-528
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to understand the concept of zero-waste design and to apply Sophia Vyzoviti's folding techniques to develop a zero-waste fashion design method that contributes to sustainable fashion design. In this study, we explore the method and characteristics of zero-waste fashion design based on the concept of folding described in Sophia Vyzoviti's book on folding techniques. Using the autonomy of Sophia Vyzoviti's folding technique, four changeable folding fashion designs were developed and produced, demonstrating zero-waste fashion design. The results were as follows. First, the development of fashion designs using Sophia Vyzoviti's folding techniques enabled the development and production of free and creative zero-waste fashion designs that were three-dimensional, continuous, fluid, and full of potential. Second, the production of zero-waste patterns was further developed into a transformable fashion design that can be used with geometric patterns. These folding techniques produced a fashion design method that could transform one piece of clothing, demonstration the potential for maintenance of creativity using a zero-waste design based on these folding techniques. Third, the double-faced fabric, Neoprene, was chosen as an appropriate material as it emphasizes the depth of folding with application of two colors and its cotton/polyester blend that is suitable for folding.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.109-123
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to examine the expression techniques and methods of Upcycling fashion brands and designers who have focused on Upcycling, and have found success. The study used collected literatures, press releases, and Internet searches using the word, 'Upcycling' in order to investigate the design characteristics and to set up criteria to classify the material expression techniques found in Upcycling fashion design. The results are as follows: Firstly, according to the result of analyzing the product images of Upcycling fashion design, the most frequently used expression methods are deconstruction and reorganization, $d{\acute{e}}paysement$, and assemblage/collage. Deconstruction and reorganization is used to make most of the Upcycling fashion design products using recycled materials. It is one of the ways to create new value that transcends the value of the previous item. Secondly, Upcycling fashion design's expression techniques generally attempt to use recycling material diversely to complement the recycling material that is limited in some way to the purpose of clothing. In this process, we can find expression techniques used to bring out) the characteristics of Upcycling fashion design. Patching, adding, cutting, folding, or weaving is the technique mainly employed.