The purpose of this study was to investigate the modernizations of traditional Saekdong by analyzing the magazines from the 1955 to 1995. The application of Saekdong extended during the 1950s. Before, Saekdong was only used for children; however, women were wearing it during this period. With the advancement of the fabric industry in the 1960s, a great popularity of Saekdong was witnessed and its application extended even further. During the 1970s, the Saekdong was applied in westernized clothes; however, the 1980s was a time of renaissance for Saekdong as the awakening of national identity movement began. The application of Saekdong in westernized clothes became more popular during the 1990s as the widespread of industrial designing was inspired by the tradition. The functional aspect of Saekdong such as recycling the leftover fabrics decreased over the years whereas the decorative aspect increased. The form of Saekdong became more variant. The Saekdong was applied either as a part or whole of the clothes. With the development of the mechanically woven Saekdong, various widths and forms of Saekdong, not only vertical lines but also diagonal and wave lines, appeared. The colors also changed. During the 1990s, low chroma and gradation methods were applied. Gold and silver threads also were woven together. The motifs were created and gilts were printed on Saekdong.
This study is to suggest versatile chair designs that are organically shaped to take individual orientation. This study intends to provide design method to ensure the face of the chair that contacts the body of its user is transformed flexibly to support the body. The movement of human body is not just a behavior but the ways and tools that reflexively express against external stimuli that are sensed and identified by the person. The versatile chair whose users' sitting position is fixed is made by covering the lump form with a piece of cloth ensuring that the content is firmly fixed and by placing the beads-woven wood fabric according to the shape. And then, it is covered with the external cover. The proposed versatile chair designs assume specific forms as follows: First, it is a versatile chair whose user's sitting position can fix. The organically-shaped form that can accept varying postures is made as a mass, which changes into different shapes when human body touches the form so that users can lie down or sit. Due to such transformation, body posture is determined and individual differences in shape changing are all acceptable. Second, it is a versatile chair that reflects the user's position in a fixed chair, where a cloth-wrapper feature is applied to the form a sifit wrapped postures so that a variety of body postures can be accepted. Finally, a versatile chair that reflects the user's position by changing the shape of is covered with forms so that it will be transformed and used in accordance with situations and chair shapes and reflect multiple shapes including round or square ones.
The Yechon shear zone developed by strike-slip movement was formed in a relatively high temperature condition just after the Jurassic syntectonic granites had been emplaced during Daebo Orogeny. Post-emplacement formation of the shear zone is favored by continuity of foliations and lineations within and without the granites, development of mylonitic structures in the wallrocks, deformation of pegmatite and felsite dikes, and pretectonic growth of porphyroblasts in the wallrocks. A variety of shear sense indicators in the shear zone are predominantly observed in the intensely to extremely deformed rocks. They show that bulk non-coaxial detormation has occurred, and that the sense of shear is consistently dextral with S-C fabrics, grain shape fabrics, asymmetric porphyroclast systems, mica fish, asymmetric extension structures and quartz C-axis fabrics.
This study presented a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. For this purpose of this study, 6 jeans have been tested after washing finishing and we turned out appropriate shrinkage rate by evaluating the exterior of jeans and usage satisfaction. Then, a making method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was 2.6${\sim}$5.2cm, hips circumference was 1.3${\sim}$4.2cm, thigh circumference was 0.8${\sim}$3.1cm and knee circumference was 0.7${\sim}$2.5cm. Also, hem circumference was 0.5${\sim}$1.8cm and pants length was 4.0${\sim}$6.2cm. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.
The purpose of this study was to present a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. Research Method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was $2.5{\sim}5.2cm$, hips circumference was $-1.8{\sim}2.8cm$, thigh circumference was $-1.3{\sim}2.0cm$ and knee circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.7cm$. Also, hem circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.8cm$ and pants length was $2.9{\sim}6.2cm$. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.17
no.4
/
pp.41-54
/
2015
The purpose of this study is to research on status of physical discomfort and clothing life including clothing inconvenience for enhancing self-reliance of elderly women, newly emerging consumer. The subject of research were 346 elderly women who aged 60 or older in Seoul and Seoul Suburbs. Survey consisted of questions about body discomfort, satisfaction and purchasing criteria of ready-to-wear, the inconvenience of clothing. The results of this study are as follows: Physical discomforts were generally associated with the ability to regulate body temperature. The biggest complaint of ready-to-wear was the price, and the next were the size and activity. In purchasing criteria, 'clothes to fit my body shape', 'clothes easy to put on and take off', 'comfortable clothes to work' showed high score. In clothing inconvenience, 'feel inconvenience due to several layers of clothing to avoid chilliness', 'feel heaviness in the waist due to tightness', 'feel chilliness even when wearing several layers of clothing in the winter' were the most uncomfortable parts. Subjects over the age of 80 years and needed the help of others in activities experienced more inconvenience in clothing life. It seems that body discomfort such as dulness of movement and loss of body temperature regulation capability due to aging had a influence on their clothing life. This problem could be improved by the adjustment of pattern allowance, the selection of the fastener, and the proper use of functional fabric. The results of this study will be used as a basis for development of the elderly women's clothing to increase convenience and mobility in everyday life.
Despite increased evidence of bio-activity following far-infrared (FIR) radiation, susceptibility of cell signaling to FIR radiation-induced homeostasis is poorly understood. To observe the effects of FIR radiation, FIR-radiated materials-coated fabric was put on experimental rats or applied to L6 cells, and microarray analysis, quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction, and wound healing assays were performed. Microarray analysis revealed that messenger RNA expressions of rat muscle were stimulated by FIR radiation in a dose-dependent manner in amount of 10% and 30% materials-coated. In 30% group, 1,473 differentially expressed genes were identified (fold change [FC] > 1.5), and 218 genes were significantly regulated (FC > 1.5 and p < 0.05). Microarray analysis showed that extracellular matrix (ECM)-receptor interaction, focal adhesion, and cell migration-related pathways were significantly stimulated in rat muscle. ECM and platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF)-mediated cell migration-related genes were increased. And, results showed that the relative gene expression of actin beta was increased. FIR radiation also stimulated actin subunit and actin-related genes. We observed that wound healing was certainly promoted by FIR radiation over 48 h in L6 cells. Therefore, we suggest that FIR radiation can penetrate the body and stimulate PDGF-mediated cell migration through ECM-integrin signaling in rats.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.20
no.4
/
pp.163-174
/
2018
Consumer and property evaluation of wetsuit materials were conducted to obtain useful data for developing competitive products that meet consumer expectations and improving industrial competitiveness. Data were collected through online surveys of 213 domestic consumers who have experienced wearing wetsuit among marine leisure activities. Five types of commercial wet suit materials by brand and four types of commercial wet suit materials with the same quality by thickness were collected. Then, their physical properties, salt water resistance and thermal insulation rate were evaluated and compared. As a result, the most commonly used wetsuit material is 3 to 5 mm thick, and the basic jersey material is bonded on both sides. As a processing for imparting functionality, processing for improving warmth and reducing surface resistance are most frequently used. Consumers often feel uncomfortable when wearing a wetsuit, such as wearing comfort, weight, ease of movement, stretchability, and clothing pressure, which are different from those of casual wear. Also, mechanical strength and warmth were considered to be the most important criteria for selection of wetsuit material for purchase or rental. The mechanical properties of brand A and B were better than those of brand C, D, and E. Resilience and thermal shrinkage were better in brand C, D, and E. On the other hand, there was no significant difference in the physical properties due to the difference in thickness of the material at the same quality. Also, it was found that the thicker the material, the more stable it is in the heat. Brand A and B had superior salt water resistance than brand C, D, and E. In the thermal insulation test, brand A and B showed better insulation characteristics than brand C, D, and E, but the types of bonded fabric and surface finishing of materials were thought to have affected. In comparison of the thickness, the thicker the materials, the better the salt resistance and the thermal insulation.
This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.
This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre's collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre's 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre's sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre's signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.
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