• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.84-100
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• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.125-135
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• 2007

Each cotton fiber is a unicellular hair collected from the seed of cotton plant. The fiber contains many convolutions along its length. Mercer was the first to suggest caustic soda treatment of cotton in commercial application. Mercerization has been commercially used since Lowe's suggestion to endow cotton with increased strength and affinity for dyes with additional properties such as fabric touch or luster. In this study, cotton fabric specimens were mercerized to investigate the changes in physical and mechanical properties pertaining to the hand or touch of fabrics. Physical properties were measured using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.99-118
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• 2006

We have focused on the building appearance according to the change of conservation policy and urban fabric in Bukchon, Seoul. The Urban Hanok, urban traditional housing type, had been evolved in modern contort from 1920's to 1960's, that is to say, many buildings(Urban Hanok) in Bukchon area has built up with a lot and road at the same time. But the change of conservation policy has an effect on the urban fabric and building(wooden structure, RC and brick building). Thus many types of building in Bukchon has undergone a various change. The purpose of this paper is to define a change factor of Bukchon buildings. Thus we need to pay attention to policy and urban fabric. We reached the result as follows. First, the change of architecture regulations according to the several policies(an aesthetic area, an altitude area for sky line restriction and so on) brought into building deformation and eventually the historic scenery of Bukchon has been spoiled. Second, the change of policy had an effect on the change of roads and lots. Buildings on a widen road and a united lot was built newly. But new buildings built up with a concrete or brick structure was not in harmony with the historic scenery of Bukchon area. Third, a development method of a large lot with lack prudence(disregarded a scale and size of lot) did damage to Urban hanok and urban fabric. With the understanding on the relationship of buildings, a urban fabric and a policy in Bukchon, we can define the identity and correspond with the urgent request for a the conservation of historic urban scenery In addition we can suggest the policy and the design guidelines for the reservation and rehabilitation for Bukchon, Seoul.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.143-154
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• 2017

This study was conducted to develop fabrics using non-toxic and eco-friendly natural dyes made from curcuma and coffee extract. The natural dyes were applied to non-printed cotton fabrics using the dip dyeing method, and the pattern was hand-printed onto the dyed fabrics to make dyed printed-fabrics. The four types of developed fabric samples were compared to analyze the effects of the dyeing materials and printing on the hygienic properties of curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics. The findings were as follows. First, air permeability of both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics was greatly affected by the presence of patterns, although the type of dye did not seem to have an effect. Printing greatly reduced air permeability of the fabric, and coffee-dyed fabric showed greater reduction of dyeing method than curcuma-dyed fabric. Moisture regain also tended to decrease with printing, but the change was much smaller compared to air permeability. Second, increased UV blockage was observed in curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics with patterns compared to non-printed fabrics, showing that printing enhanced UV blocking. Third, deodorization rate tended to increase sharply for both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics until 30 minutes and gradually increased thereafter to yield 30% for curcuma and 50% for coffee at 120 minutes, demonstrating higher deodorization of coffee dye. Coffee-dyed fabric showed an antibacterial rate about twice as high as that of curcuma-dyed fabric, and the observed data suggest that curcuma-dyed fabric had an insignificant level of antibiosis. Fourth, printing significantly enhanced wash, sunlight, and compound colorfastness of the two types of dyed fabrics. The effect of printing was most dramatic on sunlight and compound colorfastness, which are aspects in which natural dyed fabrics perform poorly in general. Eventually, the development and application of biologically- and environmentally-friendly fabrics with natural dyes correspond with increased interest towards the wellness and healthy attitudes of modern society.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.135-154
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to clarify the reason of the change of production-and-marketing system and of the regional division. The data for this study were collected by administering interviews with people engaging in hemp fabric industry: namely, craftsmen and managers in the production and marketing of "hemp fabric" handcraft. The summary of this study is as follows: First, the hemp fabric industry is a main subsidiary business of agriculture in Andong. The process of making hemp fabric heavily depends on manual labor. The process is divided into five stages: namely, cultivating hemp, pre-reeling, reeling, weaving, and colouring. Second, Andong "hemp fabric" handicrafts industry had been continuously growth until the late 1960s. During the period of Japan colonization, it was under boom condition: while the other traditional fabric industries were declined. In the 1970s, the decrease of the demand of hemp fabric was the result of mass production of substitute goods on factory system: while, in the 1980s, the growth of per capital income play an important role in bringing about the increased demand of hemp fabric. Third, in the 1980s. production-and-marketing system was changed as the result of the effort to improve the quality and the process, the advanced age of craftsmen, and the weak function of existing marketing systems. The social division of labor within the district is well developed between cultivating hemp, reeling and weaving. The social division of labor is also found in the partly process of handcratfs, and between the production and marketing. The social division of labor between production and marketing is not strongly developed to establish a reliable enterprise that develops a new product and opens a new market. Fourth, the spatial boundary of the production of hemp fabric handcrafts becomes limited into a special region based on the regional specialization of hemp cultivating and the differentiation of utilization of labor.

• Proceedings of the ESK Conference
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• 1997.04a
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• pp.183-189
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• 1997

In order to help develop more comfortable seat cover fabrics, this study primarily surveyed the actual using conditions and the consumers' opinions of the seat cover fabrics. The results of this study were as follows: 1) The colors of seat cover fabric were mostly achromatic. Regarding comsumers' satisfaction on the colors of seat cover fabric, comsumers in their 20's were less satisfied than other age groups. Most unsatisfied consumers prefered bright colors. 2) On the materials of seat cover fabric, synthethic leather and woven were most widely used. Real leather was most prefered due to its luxury and tactile sensation. Woven was secondarily prefered due to its price and tactile sensation. About fourty percent of consumers covered the seat with other cover fabrics because of soil and other reasons. It will be useful if they could choose and change the seat cover fabircs with different materials and colors. 3) When consumers used the seat cover fabrics, the problems that they indicated were not durability and colorfastness but low breathablity during sweating, static electricity, soil, firmness, and cool sensation at the first contact.

• Tunnel and Underground Space
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.100-108
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• 2017

As a measure of the combined effect of fracture geometry, the fabric tensor parameters could quantify the status of the connected fluid flow paths in discrete fracture network (DFN). The correlation analysis between fabric tensor parameters and hydraulic properties of the 2-D DFN was performed in this study. It is found that there exists a strong nonlinear relationship between the directional conductivity and the fabric tensor component estimated in the direction normal to the direction of hydraulic conductivity. The circular radial plots without significant variation of the first invariant ($F_0$) of fabric tensor for different sized 2-D DFN block are a necessary condition for treating representative element volume (REV) of a fractured rock mass. The relative error (ER) between the numerically calculated directional hydraulic conductivity and the theoretical directional hydraulic conductivity decreases with the increase in $F_0$. A strong functional relation seems to exist between the $F_0$ and the average block hydraulic conductivity.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.49-55
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• 2012

Even though corrugated boards are the most common packaging materials for agricultural products, conventional corrugated boards are not able to maintain the freshness of agricultural products. In order to overcome the limitations of conventional corrugated boards, a new hybrid corrugated board-composed of linerboard, a corrugating medium, and non-woven fabric-was designed to possess antibacterial, high porous and shock-absorbing properties. In this study, we compared the physical properties of non-woven fabric to those of the base papers of conventional corrugated boards and developed a new adhesive system as a first step toward manufacturing the hybrid corrugated board. We found that the non-woven fabric, which had relatively high elongation, was applicable in the corrugated board process, and that the manufacturing conditions must be controlled in order to prevent the break of the non-woven fabric. The mixture of starch and styrene-butadiene (SB) latex showed high adhesive strength, but the addition level of SB latex should not exceed 30% in starch solution.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.38-47
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• 2006

As apparel manufacturers and fabric suppliers are positioned in the middle of the apparel supply chain, these supply chain members build up a partnership to establish a win-win mutual relationship and to gam global competition. This study aimed to provide useful suggestions in setting up operational strategies by investigating the current state of a partnership between apparel manufactures and fabric suppliers. Partnership variables were included as: cooperative attitude, information sharing, interdependency, communications, strategic fit trust and commitment. Manufacturers' performance included productive/economic/emotional performance. A questionnaire was distributed to apparel manufactures who are doing business with fabric suppliers. A total of 101 complete questionnaires were used for further analysis. The results were as follows; First, apparel manufacturers do business with $10\~20$ fabric suppliers mainly, duration of business relation with main partners ranged from 1 year to 30 years, with 7 years on average. Among criteria with which apparel manufactures select fabric suppliers, quality and delivery-time were the most important. Second, cooperative attributes, communications, and strategic fit were positively related with trust. The higher commitment led to the high level of interdependency and strategic fit and tend to more trustworthy. Trust and commitment were significantly re lated with manufacturers' performance(i.e., productive/economic/emotional performance). This study is expected to contribute to increase the better performance for domestic apparel manufacturers.