• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.17-24
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• 2003

Objet, which showed up with the art of 20C, is now an important element giving a creative idea to fashion designers in modern times. The purpose of the study is to review how the objet technique was paid attention and recreated in the fashion, through the analysis of works, and the formative features of each technique for fashion, in order to identify the connection of arts and fashion, and the position of fashion as art. The techniques using object appeared in the 20th century fashion are as follows: First, papier-colle, which is adding printed materials onto the surface, is such a technique that adds cut-feeling materials to impose a new texture, or arrange again the cloth-cuts to create a different clothing from the existing one, which went to the extension of materials in the fashion. Second, collage of daily materials expresses directly and emotionally through direct presentation of the objets. Especially, collage of patch-work is reproduced into a new fabric depending on the objet used, giving a standing over the form. Third, ready-made which presents the material meaning only of the objet expands the range of objets which could be used in the fashion by introducing the daily materials having a meaning itself as a fashion. Forth, an attempt to approach to the objets of popular image by designed techniques come out in modern fashion as a graffiti look or a typography look, making the clothing itself an objet to transmit a message directly to the masses. Introduction of various objets and development of expression technique brought out the diversification of materials, and enrichment and extension of expression sphere, which resultingly spreaded the freedom of expression and progressed into the art sphere, making a direct motif to solidify its standing as a formative art.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.645-652
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• 2014

This study identifies consumer needs and a pattern sensory evaluation of jacquard fabrics for raincoats using quick-drying-absorbing polyester. We investigate the consumer's consciousness and raincoat improvements. Twelve kinds of jacquard fabrics were developed for use in this study. Developed jacquard fabrics were assessed subjectively by 152 university students using a 7-point scale of 26 consumer needs and 31 pattern image sensory descriptors. Data were analyzed by SPSS. The major results were: There was a need for consumers to improve the front fastener type, cuff fastener, mesh patch position, and raincoat pocket position. The most important parameter to choose raincoat fabric was waterproof and the other parameters were vapor-porous/water repellent, design, color, fashionability, air-permeability and easy-put on/off. The pattern image sensibility of jacquard fabrics was explained by seven factors: gorgeous, simple, cute, futuristic, ethnic, feminine, and cool. A higher pattern preference was found in the jacquard fabrics of unique, sporty, natural, luxurious, and trendy images. The pattern preference was predicted at 45.3% with gorgeous, simple, pure, cute, futuristic factors. The correlation coefficient between the pattern image sensibility factor 1 (gorgeous) and pattern preference was 0.674 and with factor 3 (cute) was 0.416, and with factor 6 (cool) was 0.209. The 4 factors (gorgeous, simple, cute, futuristic) were selected as a significant pattern image sensibility that influenced preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.93-104
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.14-22
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• 2007

This study is about the excavated costume representing fundamental "Conservation and Restoration". It's not a report of a specific case, but it is a guideline that contains the costume and textile of museum collection. It is not research based on experiments; however, this paper is basically consists of various reported-documents. Followings are the conclusions of this study 1. These are the factors that we have to know to prevent the causes of fabric's degradation. -Light, -Humidity and temperature, -Microscopic organism, -Insect and rodent animal, -Air pollution, -Ph, -Handling 2. Basic principles of conservation and restoration follows are: -Select the Reversible method, -Represent the easily distinguishable repaired place, -Should be acted by an expert or people with experience, -Before the restoration, accurate and specified records should be completed, -Procedure, treatment method, and materials used should be recorded prior to restoration, -Should be cared minimally, -Be cautious when using the conservation materials, -When caring, make sure nothing is against the principle of aesthetic, historic, and form of preservation 3. The types of restoration are type of straight or curve, type of hole, type of without warp or weft, type of special part damage something like sleeve, collar, type of form that is severely damaged, and type of separated pieces. 4. The method of restoration is sewing, stitching, and the combination of sewing and stitching. 5. The restoration seams are welt seam, plain seam, flat felled seam, french seam etc. And there are kinds of used-sewing, such as, broad stitching, backstitch, half backstitch, basking, hemming, saddle stitching etc.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.457-467
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• 2016

This study aimed to develop functional underwear for elderly women in their sixties in terms of good fit, wear comfort and body temperature regulation. To satisfy elderly women's physical and metabolical needs, an automatic temperature control system via PCM treatment was applied. Underwear pattern was produced by producing body surface replica, which was derived from 3D body parametric model. Differential ratios of outline length and area between 3D surface and 2D plane were 1.4% and 0.5%, respectively. The reduction rate was determined as 10% through the expert's evaluation. PCM treated fabric showed higher Q-max, meaning that it can facilitate the thermal transition in hot situation. Moreover, it also showed higher insulation to preserve heat and keep warm microclimate in a cold weather. Heat distribution measurements on various body parts revealed that the temperature after PCM treatment was significantly higher. The clothing pressure after 10% pattern reduction showed higher before reduction, at the same time, even lower than the comfort clothing pressure range of $5{\sim}10gf/cm^2$, implying that experimental garment of this research is acceptable in terms of clothing pressure. Evaluation results on the comfort to move in various motions proved that adequate clothing pressure improved the wear comfort in various motions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.754-763
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• 2018

This study examined the color reproducibility and color fastness of digital textile printing for nylon sublimation transfer. After measuring the temperature and time suited to nylon sublimation transfer, the researchers conducted various tests for comparison and analysis including polyester transfer paper on polyester fabric to check dyeing characteristics, color change, sharpness, and the rubbing fastness of the dyeing samples for nylon sublimation transfer. These tests produced the following results. At $185^{\circ}C$ and $187^{\circ}C$, the sublimation transfer dyeing characteristics of nylon were similar to those of polyester and the researchers even observed superior color development in some colors; at a low temperature of $180^{\circ}C$, the sample that was worked on had the lowest level of color development. The examination of color difference (${\Delta}E$), which compared $L^*a^*b^*$ values, showed that the ${\Delta}E$ value of magenta was 10.34, that of yellow was 24.70, and that of black was 15.28. These results highlight the important role of heat treatment temperature and time on color development in nylon sublimation transfer. Concerning sharpness, the samples subjected to higher temperature heat treatment exhibited fewer color spreading phenomena around lines. Thus, dyeing properties and fastness can be enhanced by elongating time at low temperatures and shortening time at high temperatures; however, considering production time constraints as well as the need to produce industrially marketable quantities, the findings of this study suggest that the heat treatment temperature most suitable for nylon sublimation transfer is $187^{\circ}C$ for a duration of 50 seconds.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.11
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• pp.1794-1805
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• 2009

This study investigates the influence of slit positions on the microclimate temperature/humidity of garments. To design the slits, a market survey was performed to indicate the method to apply the slits, in addition to a literature survey about muscles and body surface variation through body movements. Based on the survey, three positions of slits were selected, shoulder slit, lowback slit, and midback slit, a slit width of 1cm and length to 30cm was used. The results showed that microclimate temperatures/humidity on the back according to the slit positions were in the order of, lowback, midback, and the shoulder. The lowback slit showed the highest effect on the temperature/humidity of a front trunk. Lowback slits affected on localized areas of the glutaeus maximus, erector spinae, and latissimus dorsi. Midback slits affected the back muscle and deltoid. Shoulder slits showed a more significant effect on the localized area of the deltoid versus other localized areas. In the subjective sensations, the lowback slit was cooler, dryer, and more comfortable than the other slits. For the subjective sensations by fabric characteristics, the slit positions correlated at |r|${\geq}.8$ and were significant at p<.001 The results show that the lowback slit has a superior air exchange effect and thermoregulation qualities.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.248-253
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to improve consumer sleeping life in quality and to suggest producers meet new consumer needs and demands, by examining the nationwide use of bedding, analyzing consumer sleeping life by category and age group, comparing the results with the findings of the nationwide studies by Sung Su-kwang (1992) and Lee Song ja (1995), and identifying the major trend of consumer sleeping life. Results and Discussion The findings of this study were as below: 1. The General Characteristics of the Subjects : Most of the housewives investigated were in their 30s and 40s, with 41.7% and 50.8% respectively. 2. Bedroom : When it comes to bedroom style, 47.8% put beds in their rooms with the Korean under-floor heating system, and 45.4% didn't place beds in their rooms with the same heating system. 3. The Purchase of Bedding : 49.0%, approximately half the homemakers, bought their current bed-clothes at bedding shops, and just 3.2% made them on their own at home. 4. The Use of Bedclothes : In summer, yam (flax, ramie fabric) and a single-layer bed sheet (41.9%) were in use most, followed by a single-layer quilt (34.5%). 5. Bedding Management The most common frequency of bedding disinfection by sunning was once a month (29.4%), followed by once per two weeks (23.9%) and once a week (19.0%) in the order named.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.787-799
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• 2016

This study considers aesthetic characteristics by examining fashion style of fashion journalist Anna Wintour. Fashion journalists are specialists who work at fashion media. Especially, Anna Wintour is one of the most famous fashion journalist in the world and fashion icon, who has been editor-in chief of Vogue USA since 1988. For this study, Anna Witour's photograph was collected from 2010 to 2015 on web-sites. After collecting images, it analysed with 4criterions which were silhouette, color, fabric(pattern and texture) and hair style(and accessories) following advance researches analysis about fashion style. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, symbolism revealed that could express her identity through utilizing steady items such as blond bob hair, Chanel bold sunglasses, short round neckless and Manolo Blahnik's low-heeled slingback nude sandals. Especially, she gave consistency to her fashion style with fixed hair style and accessories which are similar in shape. Second, femininity, that reveal as an internal characteristic such as sensitivity and as an external characteristic like fluidity. Anna Wintour expressed femininity with elegant curvy silhouette, various of color and flower pattern. Particularly, she emphasized nature women's body shape with princess silhouette, slim silhouette. Third, analysis result indicated characteristic of authority with oversize silhouette, wide lapel details and glamorous genuine fur items. Furthermore, some of her fur items looked overwhelming which dyed in artificial color or printed with leopard pattern. These powerful items contained immanent meanings that are power and position which could express a role as an editor-in chief of Vogue USA.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1315-1321
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• 2009

The chemical composition of natural powder dye $Pinux^{TM}$ manufactured from Pinus radiata bark and dyeability of dyed silk fabrics with $Pinux^{TM}$ were examined. It is made up of the optimum dyeing condition of silk fabric according to the dyeing concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. Also, we examined the colorfastness and antibiosis of dyed silk fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light. For the analysis of the chemical composition of $Pinux^{TM}$, the total contents of phenolic compound, proanthocyanidin(PA) and anti-oxidative activities of the dye were analyzed. As a result, it was found that the main components of the $Pinux^{TM}$ manufactured from Pinus radiata bark is proanthocyanidin, mostly a flavonoid containing a procyanidin structure, and it consists of approximately 63% phenol. As a result of examining the dyeability of silk fabrics with $Pinux^{TM}$, it showed that the dyeability was best under the conditions of the concentration of dye $1{\sim}1.5%$(wt/v%), dyeing time of 90 minutes, and dyeing temperature at $90^{\circ}C$. It was found that the colorfastness of dyed silk fabrics, colorfastness to washing, perspiration for acidic and rubbing were as good as grade 4 or 4-5. However, the colorfastness to light was low at grade 1, the same as the results of other natural dyed fabrics. As a result of the antibiosis measurement for the $Pinux^{TM}$-dyed silk fabrics, it showed high antibacterial properties to Staphylococcus sureus at 99.6%.