• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.198-210
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.119-129
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• 2012

출토복식은 조선시대 복식문화를 알 수 있는 중요한 자료들이다. 그 중에서도 염직물들은 복식의 문화사적 연구뿐만 아니라 보존과학적 연구 및 유물복원을 위해 꼭 필요한 자료들이다. 그러나 매장환경에서 오랜 기간 동안 영향을 받으면서 색은 변퇴색되었으며 발굴 후에도 점차 퇴색되어가므로 본래의 색을 추정하기가 어렵다. 이에 본 연구에서는 적색, 황색, 자색, 청색의 천연염색포 표준시료를 제작하여 고속액체크로마토그래피(High Performance Liquid Chromatography with Photodiode Array Detector, 이하 HPLC-PDA)에 의해 분석하고, 같은 방법으로 출토염직물에 남아있는 색소를 추출하여 분석함으로써 출토직물의 염료분석을 시행하였으며 당시의 색을 추정하기 위해 전자현미경(Scanning electron microscope 이하 SEM)에 연결된 에너지 분산형 원소분석장치(Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy 이하 EDX)를 이용하여 매염제 분석을 시행하였다. 본 실험을 위해 16~17세기 출토직물편으로 대전시 송천동 출토 은진송씨 송문창 출토직물 2점과 대전시 목달동 출토 여산송씨 송희종 출토직물 1점 등 3점을 사용하였으며, 분석결과 alizarin, purpurin, indigo, ellagic acid 등의 색소가 검출되어 꼭두서니-쪽의 중복염색, 꼭두서니 염색, 석류-쪽의 중복염색 등의 결과를 얻을 수 있었으며 매염제로는 모든 유물에서 Al이 검출되었다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.197-206
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• 2009

천연보존제는 주로 식물에서 추출된 항균물질로 만들어지며 부패되기 쉬운 식품의 보존제나 천연화장품, 약품등에 주로 사용되고 있다. 본 연구는 현재 천연화장품의 보존제로 개발되어진 천연보존제를 직물에 처리하여 이것이 섬유문화재 보존에 적용이 가능한지를 탐색하고 평가하는데 그 목적이 있다. 따라서 천연보존제로 처리한 직물의 특성을 알아보고자 천연보존제 1%로 처리한 면직물과 견직물에 대해 실험한 결과 색 및 인장강도의 변화가 극히 미약하고 중성에 가까운 pH를 나타내었으며 우수한 항균성과 항곰팡이성을 가지는 것으로 나타났고 견직물에 피해를 주는 Bacillus cereus에 대해서도 우수한 항균활성을 나타내었다. 또한 섬유문화재에 적용시키기 위한 예비실험으로 출토직물 편을 천연보존제 1%로 처리한 직물로 싸서 72시간 보관한 후 출토직물편의 미생물 실험결과 미생물의 증식이 확연히 준것을 알 수 있었다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.35-40
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• 2005

Researches to preserve and restore the excavated cellulose fabrics as costume heritages have been carried out. In this study, in order to artificially restore an excavated cellulose fabrics, acid-treated cellulose fabrics were prepared. Three kinds of cellulose fabrics were used for an experiment. Three kinds of cellulose fabrics were treated by the acid aqueous solution for the various strength retention ($100\%,\;80\%,\;60\%,\;40\%,\;20\%$). The fine structure and physical properties of acid treated cellulose fabrics were investigated with various techniques such as wide-angle X-ray diffraction, tensile test, weight loss, shrinkage, SEM etc. Tensile strength and strain of cellulose fabrics decreased with increasing acid treatment time. However, weight loss and shrinkage increasing slightly. The crystal diffraction intensity was not changed. SEM results of acid-treated cellulose fabrics show that the surface was damaged.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.41-47
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• 2005

Costume heritages of an excavated silk fabrics should be preserved without damage. In order to artificially restore the excavated silk fabrics, alkaline aqueous solution, as a simulated corpse, and two kinds of silk fabrics were used. Two kinds of silk fabrics were treated by aqueous alkaline solution according to strength retention value(100, 80, 60, 40, 20$\%$). The fine structure and physical properties of alkaline treated silk fabrics were investigated with various techniques such as wide-angle X-ray diffraction, tensile test, weight loss, shrinkage, SEM. and yellowness. As the alkaline treatment time increased tensile strength of silk fabrics decreased. However, weight loss and shrinkage slightly increased. The diffraction intensity of $\beta-form$ crystal declined and $\alpha-form$ crystal diffraction intensity disappeared with the treatment.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.391-400
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• 2007

This purpose of this study is to announce the research for the formative characteristics and the constructive characteristics for the 23 pair of pants excavated from the tomb of Yeosan Song's family at Mokdal Dong in Daejeon. Men and women wore the open-type over the close-type pants. Song Hyo-sang and Chungjoo Park wore the 1 or 2 pairs of the open-type pants over the 3 pairs of close-type pants. Song Hee-jong and his wife Sonhung An wore a pair of the open-style pants over the 1 or 2 pairs of pants. It was due to the shortage of goods by the war that Song Heejong had less shrouds than Song Hyosang. The pants were almost made of the cotton and the silk. The open-type pants worn inside was made of the cotton but outside was made of the silk. That time the cotton was used for the unlined underwears for the health and the protection against the cold and the hot. The silk was used for the outwear. In the construction type, 12 pairs of pants were unlined, 6 pairs of pants were quilted, 4 pairs of pants were padded, and 1 pair of pants was lined. All unlined were the close-type and the quilted and padded pants were the open-type, which were worn inside. Lined type was just one. In the wearing order of shrouds, type, textile, and constructive type, Song Hyosang and Chungjo Park were similar, Song Heejong and Sonhung An were similar.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.211-231
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• 2008

To conserve historic textiles, analyses of textile materials, pollutants and deterioration are prerequisite steps. Based upon analytical results, guides for conservation of historic textiles are established. In analyses of textile materials, pollutants and deterioration, there are chemical methods(burning, solubility and staining), physical methods(microscopy and density) and instrumental analysis(Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FT-IR), Fourier Transform Raman Spectroscopy(FT-Raman), Gas Chromatography(GC), Mass Spectroscopy(MS), X-Ray Fluorescence (EDXRF, WDXRF), Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy(EDS), and X-Ray Diffraction(XRD), Tensile Testing Machine etc.). Combination of qualitative and quantitative analyses makes accurate diagnosis of textile condition possible. As examples of analyses and conservation of historic textiles, Chuninsan(19 century) similar to sunshade with handing down historic textile and golden decorative skirt(17 century) with excavated costume are taken.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.338-347
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• 2006

Due to the complex environment in the ground, most of excavated costumes undergo deterioration and color change. To reduce the extent and intensity of the staining and to recover the original color or gray fabrics of excavated costumes, bleaching would be required. Excavated historical costumes are very delicate in nature, therefore, special care is needed in bleaching process. Several bleaching agents were selected and applied to the control cotton fabric and pre-deteriorated cotton fabrics to examine the change of color and physical properties after bleaching. A dual bleaching using hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride showed the superior bleaching effect to the other bleaching agents. The strength of pre-deteriorated fabrics slightly increased after dual bleaching. The six historical costumes which belonged to General Duk-Ryung Kim's nephew's wife were dual bleached. They became remarkably cleaned and brightened. The treatments improved the appearance of costumes. By microscopic investigation, it is found that costumes did not show the damage after treatment. In conclusion, it is possible to bleach historical textiles without damage using appropriate bleaching agents like hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.871-880
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• 2015

Buddhist culture had a significant impact on the entire mode of Korean living after the introduction of Buddhism to Korea in the Three Kingdom Period. Baekje embraced Buddhism in 384 A.D.; subsequently, diverse artifacts have now been excavated from the temples. Various research on Korean temples are now in progress; however there is inadequate research on the relics and patterns excavated from the temples due to the focus on the temples’ architectural form. There is limited research on the development of fashion cultural products that use relics excavated from the temples. This study develops designs for fashion cultural products using Baekje Sabi Period relics; specifically, the sari container excavated from Buyeo’s Wangheungsaji, Neungsanrisaji, and Iksan’s Mireuksaji. The sari container’s original form, patterns, and writing were developed into patterns and applied to fashion products such as t-shirts, bags and scarves. Traditional multicolored paintwork exhibited on the temples, ‘dancheong’, was selected as the color for products that can symbolically express the nature of their origin. Adobe Illustrator CC and Adobe Photoshop CC were used to extract the motifs and develop the designs. Six patterns and nine fashion products were designed, accounting for a total of fifteen developed items. We hope that the fashion cultural product design expresses the distinct characteristics of Baekje’s Sabi Period and can be applied to various products and related fields.

• 복식
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• 제65권7호
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• pp.47-59
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• 2015

This paper studies the conservation treatment of Lady Shim's costume, which was excavated in Jecheon Province in 2012. There were the significant problems, which were encountered in the treatment of the costume ; First the Jeogoris were transformed during the excavation, Second fibers were seriously deteriorated, Third most of the fabrics such as Chusa were readily deformed. To overcome these problems and to secure stability in the conservation treatment, we decided to alternate between two different washing methods ; dry cleaning by n-hexane and wet cleaning by water. The costume shape was recovered by steaming and by swelling with Hanji(Korean traditional paper). The combined cleaning method proved to be relatively efficient and stable. In addition, the shape of Chusa was well preserved by dry cleaning.(using n-hexane also solved the problem of bad smell after washing with organic solvents.) The effects of the conservation treatment on the excavated costumes could be seen in the change of Lab color difference. Washing made the distribution of Lab color difference narrower, which may suggest that the impurities on the fiber was removed by washing. In addition, the value of L was greater than a-value and b-value after the treatment. This result indicates that the change of value represents the change of color difference by cleaning.