• Title/Summary/Keyword: Embroidery

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Knit Design Inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's Works - Based on the Concept of Naturalism - (얀 아르튀스 베르트랑의 작품을 응용한 니트 디자인 - 자연주의 개념을 바탕으로 -)

  • Lee, Seung-A;Hong, Eun-Hee;Yoon, Ji-Won;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.18 no.2
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    • pp.277-289
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    • 2010
  • The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

A Study on Cheollik, the Military Officials' Clothes, in the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대무관(朝鮮時代武官)의 철릭[帖裏] 연구)

  • Keum, Jong-Suk
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.18 no.5
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    • pp.960-976
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    • 2010
  • Even though Joseon Dynasty strictly identified between military and civil officials, the dress and its ornament have been studied only based on embroidery emblems that are correctly identified between military and civil officials. Thus, this study intends to research the features of the only military officials uniform, Cheollik, different from the civil officials's identifying them with other features shown from the records, unearthed relics, stone statue, Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan), etc., and its results are as follows: First, for wearing examples of the military officials, from the facts that they had worn mainly ordinary clothes, etc. on announcement of military service examination. There was no difference between military and civil officials's clothes by Daejeonhusokrok and the other documents, and there was an assertion that the form of the military and civil officials's clothes should be different by the document, Hongjejeonseo, in the latter term of the Joseon Dynasty. It is presumed that length, width and shape of sleeves might have been different. Second, unearthed Cheollik of the military officials are mostly from the 16th~17th centuries and most of them have removable sleeves according to statistics. The skirt had an opening and one or two slits. Various textiles were used. Third, military official statues of high governor wear small caps and helmets. They wear Cheollik with the collars same as the collar of Bangryeong and Jikryeong, which is also called Dopji Cheollik. It would be considered as they wear the Bangryeong on top of the Cheollik. Fourth, militarly officials described on the Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan) wear Cheollik, Rip, Donggae, Okro, Hongsadae, Hwando, Deungchae.

A study on textile design for infant and children's clothes with the motive of Jeju natural resource persimmon (제주 천연자원 감을 모티브로 한 유·아동복 텍스타일 디자인 연구)

  • Ahn, Sumin;Yi, Eunjou
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.25 no.6
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    • pp.741-756
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    • 2017
  • The natural resources of Jeju are recognized as the new regional image of that clean island. Reflecting these trends, this study is initiated to develop a textile design with the motive of persimmon, a natural resource of Jeju, and to apply it to infant's and children's clothes. Its purpose is to highlight the image of persimmon, a traditional dye, as a regional signature for Jeju. Product development procedure included, understanding the use of persimmon for fashion products, analyzing Infants' and Children's designer collections over the last three seasons (focused on 2014S/S, 2015S/S, and 2016S/S), and surveying the Children's Clothes market for persimmon dyeing in Jeju. The conclusion was that, the natural resources of Jeju are highly valuable, and should be applied to textile design and apparel products for children. Utilizing Jeju persimmon was actively studied, but, the market for the Jeju persimmon natural - dyeing products is extremely limited. Moreover, the apparel products for infants and children represent old-fashioned styles, despite their higher prices. Therefore, using the formative characteristics of persimmon for each theme was suggested for development of patterns for textile design. Pattern designs were expressed using textured textile screen-printing, embroidery and $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ for infants' and children's clothes. In this study, a total of 10 items were prepared as apparel products for infants and children. All items were designed considering mix-and-match, potential, with each other or with regular mass-market products. These results are expected to contribute to highlighting the unique image of Jeju and to help promote fashion culture products.

A Study on Ethnic look Expressed in Modern Fashion (현대 패션에 나타난 민속풍(Ethnic look)에 관한 연구)

  • 정연자
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.31 no.4
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    • pp.215-229
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    • 1993
  • As a result of making an inquiry into the ethnic look of each region appearing in present-day fashion by Asia. America and Oceania. Africa and Europe as mentioned above, its characteristics could be summarized as follows: Firstly the Asian ethnic look consists of Indian, Chinese and Japanese looks as mainstream. In terms of form, the draped form constituted its mainstream, and both the draped form and the tunic form are appearing Simultaneously in the Chinese look. And in respect to color the Indian look is using luxurious primary colors red, blue, yellow and green and other regions are making overall use of natural colors. With respect to ornament various kinds of ornaments is utilized in Indian's Sari and turban. Chines's Coolie hat, straw hat and embroidery, knotted button, and bead ornament, and Japan's Obi and Obijime, etc. Secondly in America and Oceania, costurme representing the Indian look in North America and the picture of Western pioneer, and the Peruvian, Mexican and chilean ethnic looks in South America were expressing much. Here, the form consistied a draped form as its main strem, such colors as yellow, purple, grey, etc were much utilized, and the material of costume comprised knits, cotton and the like. And the ornament consisted of hats, tassel ornaments, bead ornaments, metal chain belt, long braided hair, etc. Thirdly, the African ethnic look had an exposing form and a draped form, and such colors as black, white, yellow, brown, etc were used as the fashion color. Ornaments such as precious stone, bead ornaments, animal bones, straw metal ornament, etc were used as fashion decorations. Fourthly, Russia's Cossack look, Bulgaria's Bavshika look, spain's ethnic look cane to the fore as the European look Both the draped form and the tunic form were used simultaneously as fashion form. And grey, brown, purple, etc were much used as fashion color in the European look. Such ornaments as Cossack. Bavshka, boots, tassel ornaments were much used and paisley pattern also was used.

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Influences of the crusade on Medieval costumes - Focusing on the period from the lith through the middle of 15th centuries - (십자단 전쟁이 중세복식에 미친 영향 - 11세기~15세기 중반을 중심으로 -)

  • 정현숙
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.24 no.1
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    • pp.17-26
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    • 1986
  • War has been a reason for the culture of one conservative country to make contact with the culture of another country. The Crusade, among other wars, caused cultural exchange between the orient and the occident and had a great influence on the western costume. This paper has made an attempt to find out the influence of the Crusade with respect to the cultural exchange between the orient and the Occident and to study the influence which the Crusade has had on the western costume. The Crusade was the war in which the European Christians tried to retake the Holy Land, Jerusalem, from the Islamites through the 11th century to the 13th century. As a result of this war,the autyority of the Pope was weakned, the nobles were ruined and royal authority was consolidated. Due to the contact with the Orient, trade had become active, cityes had developed and the middle class of rich merchant had grown. Gothic architecture also appeared in the Occident at this time due to the religious influence of the Crusade. Turban type headdress and the brink decoration of clothes had been very popular under the influence of the Orient. Embroidery and applique had developed and silk fabrics which had been imported from the Orient had made the costumes more fabrics which had been imported from the Orient had made the costumes more gorgeous and luxurious. Many accessories were imported from the Orient. The Oriental culture contributed to the use of rich and bright colorsm, various ornaments and splendid textiles of the western costume. Owing to the influence of war itself, many costumes had been newly made in order to adapt to the hot desert climates of the Orient. Blazon decorations, uniforms and armour had also developed.

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An Analysis of the Design Characteristics of 'Vivienne Tam' Collections, for the Launch of Renowned Korean Luxury Fashion Brands (한국 패션 명품 브랜드 론칭을 위만 '비비안 탐' 컬렉션의 디자인 특성 분석)

  • Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.8
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    • pp.82-96
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to present the basic approach of producing the luxury fashion brands containing of the Korean traditional traits on the basis of traditional transformation with the modern concept, taking the 'Vivienne Tam' 2000's collections. This study has focused on its transformation of the traditional one of China, and made this as the subject of investigation. It's design characteristic could be defined as "modern interpretations of China chic", and it would be divided into two groups. The ingenious mixture of Chinese tradition into the modern chic could be concluded like these. The external characteristics is categorized in the three ways (1) the aesthetic application of the Chinese traditional patterns(dragon, water waves, peony, Japanese apricot flower, bamboo, bats, Chinese characters etc.), (2)the modern application of Chinese traditional costume details(front opening of Chipao, mandarin collar and knot buttons) and (3)the modernization of Chinese traditional technique(knotting, embroidery, beading and paper cutting). To deal with the internal characteristics, (1)the aesthetic mixture of East and West, (2)the formative expressions of the traditional view on the universe and religion are remarkable. The Chinese embodiment and the view of the universe and religion was integrated into the patterns of dragon, water waves, clouds, fire, woods, and metals. In order to afford the creative designer capable of encompassing the East and West, the teaching about the Korean tradition along with the technical and practical aspect of fashion is most important, while encouraging the professional designer to make a sophisticated ones which are attributed to the Korean tradition, and thereby come to be attractive to the world customer. The study about the Korean costumes, traditional colors, the symbolic meaning of the traditional patterns, cuttings, compositions, extending to the various kinds of myths, songs, paintings and crafts are essential for the Korean designer brand to be the global luxury brands.

Expression Methods and Compositions of Peony Patterns in Chinese Textiles (중국 직물 모란무늬의 표현방법 및 구성형태에 관한 연구)

  • Qiao, Dan;Lee, Eun-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.1
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    • pp.101-116
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    • 2010
  • In this study, the subjects are the expression methods and compositions of peony patterns in Chinese textiles. This study represents the peony patterns which are from Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, the research subjects are the peony patterns in fabric, except the peony patterns which are expressed by gold foil, embroidery and kesi. The objects of this study are 72 pieces of peony patterns. We sketched the configuration details of peony patterns through the Illustrator program. Analyze and classify the configuration accurately. Based on the 72 pieces of peony patterns, expression methods and compositions of the peony pattern are as following, firstly, we classified peony patterns into three categories, based on expression methods, as realistic shape, pattern shape and shape. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of realistic shape 42 pieces(58.3%), pattern shape 25 pieces(34.7%), and shape 5 pieces(7.0%). Secondly, in the realistic shape peony, the most of pattern has petal accumulate as grape- shaped. This type is found in almost every Dynasty and was used regularly in the eras of Song and Ming Dynasty. In the era of Ming Dynasty, by using petals like the curly mushroom, Yeongji(靈芝), the pattern of symbolizing longevity was habitually used. The U-shaped flower pattern (type E) and the pattern of emphasizing the veins of petals are found only in the remains of the era of Qing Dynasty. Thirdly, in the pattern shaped peony, the most of pattern has some petals which are separated(type C). Fourthly, we classified peony patterns into four categories, based on compositions, as individual branch form, floral branch form, cluster branch form and floral nest form. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of individual branch form 33 pieces(45.8%), floral branch form 18 pieces(25.0%), cluster branch form 13 pieces(18.1%), floral nest form 8 pieces(11.1%).

A Study on Court Ladies' tasks and Costume in the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 궁녀의 직무와 복식에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Soh-Hyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.10
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    • pp.55-71
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    • 2011
  • Court ladies' tasks were largely divided into two. First, if there is a royal family event, such as the royal family's wedding or feast, they followed the rules and regulations of work division that was defined in "Gyeonggukdaejeon". Secondly, during normal days, they were divided into Jimil (至密), Chimbang (針房), Subang (繡房), Sesugan (洗手間), Saenggwabang (生果房), Naesojubang (內燒廚房), and Oesojubang (外燒廚房) and took charge of female work that was needed daily at the palace including serving, cooking, laundry, needlework, embroidery, cleaning, and nurturing. This organization was operated by different palaces such as the daejeon(king's palace), daebijeon(queen dowager's palace), junggungjeon(queen's palace), or sejagung(prince's palace). Court ladies were selected among female slaves of the government office or naesusa(a ministry of royal household properties). Although commoners were forbidden to be selected, they sometimes became court ladies voluntarily for financial reasons or because of the will of their parents. Court ladies had different appearances according to the division they belonged to. The court girls of Jimil, Chimbang, and Subang wore saeangmeori while court girls from other places had braided hairstyles. At Jimil, they wore all different kinds of chima(skirt) and jeogori(jacket). Usually, court ladies wore navy chima, jade jeogori, green gyeonmagi(top jacket) with the uyeomeori hairstyle. When working in the evening, they wore pink jeogori or yellow-green jeogori, navy chima with the jojimmeori hairstyle for easiness to stay up all night and work. Navy chima was worn by court ladies. If there was a royal family event upper court ladies wore uyeomi, black or green wonsam, and stewards wore garima and dangui.

A Study on the Construction of Court Dresses in the Daehan Empire - focused on the coat pattern - (대한제국기 문관 대례복 제작에 관한 연구 - 상의 패턴을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Kyung-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.6
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    • pp.56-68
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    • 2013
  • A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.

The Types and Characteristics of Decorative Techniques Applied to the Korean Traditional Skirt of Contemporary Style - Focusing on 2001 to 2010 - (현대 한복치마에 사용된 장식기법의 유형과 특성 - 2001~2010년도를 중심으로 -)

  • Ok, Myung-Sun;Park, Ok-Lyun
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.19 no.4
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    • pp.712-722
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the types and characteristics of decorative techniques applied to the Korean traditional skirt of contemporary style. For the purpose, this researcher selected 167 pieces of Korean traditional skirts which were shown in relevant monthly magazines published between 2001 and 2010. Then, the researcher classified the types of decorative techniques found in those selected pieces and analyzed the characteristics of decoration technique for each area of the pieces and the characteristics of patterns used in relation to those techniques. The Korean traditional skirt, otherwise called 'Hanbok chima', was classified into two types, single and composite, in accordance with which technique of decoration was used to it. The single type was characterized by so many embroideries, while the composite type, a combination of two decorative techniques, seonchigi and jatmulim. In the Korean traditional skirt, decorative techniques were applied to the knotting and entire of the skirt. Patterns used to decorate the Korean traditional skirt were usually in form of embroidery, gold or silver foil or painting. Out of the patterns, those which were embroidered or painted were shaped flowers, while those which were plated with gold or silver are shaped bosangdangchomun and flowers. There were other decorative techniques than mentioned above, for example, applying two or more different colors to the hem of the skirt, attaching pads to the knotting of the skirt and padding a decorative cloth on the front center of the skirt.