• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.140-146
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• 2009

In this study, the ideal human body of adult woman is to express, and the body dimension of the woman model is produced and compared in doll model with the bodily dimension by presenting the body pattern to produce the dolls with the ideal body proportion visually. For the research process, by collecting, comparing and analyzing the body pattern of the currently used embroidery fashion doll, the pattern of body suit that displays the body of women is designed with the size of model with the height of 168cm. This is scaled for 1/4 of its entirety to make the doll of around 40cm and produced the research doll with two revisions. When compared with the ratio of each part of the body for the height of the produced research doll with the bodily ration of the major ratio of the height of the standard bodily size of Size Korea 2004, the ratio of the category of the height is almost consistent, and the width category is shown approximately 80~85%, waist for 75%, thickness category for approximately 90% as the ideal ratio.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.513-525
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• 2005

This article examines how the development process of muff has changed over history as well as considering value. This study is based on secondary sources such as books and fashion magazines. The imminent value of muff based on the results of this historical study can be summarized by its utility, its ornamentation, and its fashion value. First, muff is not only used to protect the hands or to keep them warm, but also as a substitute for the purse. Second, muff is an ornament decorated mainly with fur, using splendid colors, patterns, embroidery etc. Third, muff goes with other clothes as an ornament, and therefore, can be a means to express the attitude or behavior of many circumstances. Muff has vanished in casual wear and could meet by chance in a designers collection. However, the fashion value of muff brings it new attention making various creative fashion images by itself or with other clothes in the modern fashion trend. This study on the history and the aesthetic value of muff could stimulate the appreciation of the ornamentation aside from the clothes and serve to develop a new creative way in fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.1042-1055
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to consider the formative characteristics of dance sports from such points of view as shapes, colors, material and decorations, and to examine artistic characteristics that are expressed through those elements. As a result, this study shows five artistic characteristics as follows; First, rhythmic characteristic is expressed with repeat of lines that is formed by pleats, shirring or gather, with duplication of ruffle's wave, with gradation of colors, with Moire-effect that is generated with overlap of see-through material, with glossy material that reflects lights to a great extent, with fringe. Second, bodily characteristic emphasizes the beauty of human bodies through direct or indirect body exposure by way of cut-and-open, see-throughness or close adhesion. Third, decorative characteristic is shown with beads, fringe, ruffle, embroidery, shirring, binding, or feather. Fourth, the beauty of female body is manifested to express eroticism, which is culminated by body exposure, body consciousness, use of illuminating or see-through material or colorful trimming. Finally, elegant characteristic is revealed through feminity, sophistication, and harmony that are expressed with black and white colors, see-through material, or bead trimmings.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.956-970
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• 2006

The purposes of this study was to analyze the characteristics of national races' costumes in Chinese contemporary costumes. For the purpose, this researcher concentrated on the relations between national races' costumes and Chinese contemporary costumes and discuss systematically depending on references such as fashion magazines, picture albums, and historical records. The results of study were as follows: First, the formation of fashion has been influenced by Man, Uighur, and Choson races. For example, Qipao, the tight style of Man race's fashion, Uighur race's bell style sleeve and cyclic skirt are applied to women's modern fashion. Second, weaving, printing, and embroidery technique of a minority race developed more than Han race, so applied still. Recently, Chinese contemporary costumes accepted the weaving technique of Miao and Uighur race through publicizing of a minority culture. Third, a national race's costumes are famous with splendid design and applied to modern fashion directly. They are commonly made to hair pin, necklace, earing, bracelet and so on. Recently, styles from a national race's costumes and old style are becoming popular to Chinese and it's easier to found such a fashion in market.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.661-673
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• 2011

This study aimed to identify the intrinsic characteristics of camouflage patterns by reviewing their origin, transitions and types from a theoretical background and analyzing their forms of expression in contemporary fashion. For a literature review and an empirical analysis of the camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion, the study referred to domestic and foreign fashion magazines published between 2000 S/S and 2010 S/S, including Gap Press, Fashion News, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and other related data available on the internet. The findings of this study show that the forms of camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion can be divided into four types: abstract patterns, plant patterns of flowers or leaves, animal patterns and dotted patterns. In terms of coloration, the camouflage patterns work to refresh the design, breaking from the image of military uniforms through the use of a wide range of color variation and combinations as well as the traditional camouflage colors based on khaki and beige. In terms of expression, most of them utilize printing. However, other techniques of expression, such as embroidery, beading, knitting, and collages are used to emphasize the beauty of handcrafted decorations along with the aesthetic value of reliefs. Through these tendencies of expression, the characteristics of contemporary fashion using camouflage are explained with an emphasis on feminine beauty, the expression of neutrality, and the use as decorative factors.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.33-44
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to research Miao ethnic costume which have been distinctly expressed differences according tribes and areas, present fashion design reflecting image of Miao ethnic costume. Two steps was taken in order to achive this purpose. The first step was to put in order formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume being based on the Chinese books and domestic research materials. The second step was to study formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume in comparison 2000A/W fashion trend, illustrate and schematize fashion designs. The results of formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume are summarized as follows 1. X or H silhouette through skirt & jacket and pants & jacket. 2. Layered look that been twisted around several items. 3. Fine pleats skirts. 4. Refined and splendid color. Black was used main color, dark blue & red purple were used coordi color, vivid color were used accent color 5. Geometrical pattern, cross stitch embroidery. 6. Various ornaments being used silver. 7. Various hair styles and hairdressers. Using above characteristics, this study presneted fusion fashion design combined images of ethnic and techno with dark blue, mustard, blue purple. The target was Forties, professional woman.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.83-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to research adolescents' practical awareness about the contents(classify them into four units, choice and dressing of clothes, textile and management of clothes, design and sewing of clothes, knitting and embroidery) clothing and textiles education in their real life. This is the investigation of which 730(middle school students 246, high school students 248, university students 236) girl students located in Junrabukdo and Choongchungnam. In this statistical analysis. SPSS 10.0 for Windows Program was utilized to calculate percentage, mean and standard deviation. Also, these materials wert verified by t-test, One-way Anova. The main results of obtained this study are as follows. Adolescents' practical awareness about the contents of clothing and textiles education in their real life appears to be low(only 8 items were over median point of 3.0) There was a significant difference in practical awareness of contents of clothing and textiles education according to early$.$middle$.$latter adolescents and demographic variables differed significantly. These results should be provide fundamental information for improving students' critical practice in their real life. Since this study has touched only limited research on the topic of clothing and textiles education, it is essential that further research covering a wider array of themes be done in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.934-950
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• 2018

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men's tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer's movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer's activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.47-65
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to derive the future-oriented characteristics Sonia Delaunay presented at the time based on the identity and modernity shown in her works and diverse activity. The scope of study spans from 1907 to the start of World War II and includes both applied and fine arts, with a focus on textiles and fashion. The research method is a literary study that includes old documents, exhibition booklets, and explanations from museum curators. The visual materials are actual works observed at exhibitions and digital images of various exhibitions. As a result of the research, she was a practitioner who expressed her identity in marriage, artwork, textiles, and fashion. In order to embody her design and express modernity, she showed geometric and modern motifs and she incorporated a sense of bright color and modernized light into her work by following the principle of simultaneous contrast in color. Additionally, she applied Hungarian embroidery techniques to simple materials and created geometric abstraction with her simultaneous colors, which contributed to both originality and the mass production of textile design. The future-oriented characteristics she presented are the dynamism of modern rhythm, the expansion of convergence and collaboration, the innovation of new production and exhibition, the media of consumer society, and the femininity of modern life. She recognized the mass consumer society and mass production of the early 20th century and actively utilized various media and genres to evoke a dynamic sense necessary for modern life and presented a design to be seen as a modern woman.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제58권10호
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• pp.164-172
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• 2008

Soochonri tombs are assumed to be of the Baekje Kingdom in the early 5th century. We have examined 12 artifacts and 24 textiles in the four tombs. Along with hemp textiles, silk and embroidery threads were found In the Soochonri tombs. Within the hemp textiles both hemp and ramie were made using s-twist threads and the thread count distribution is calculated to be $8.5{\sim}15.5/cm^2$. Taffeta, one of the silk, can be categorized in to four types. First, the plain woven silk was made with warp and weft of the same thickness. The rates of thread count are also similar. Secondly the warp and weft are of the same thickness but has more spaces between threads. Third, the type of warp and weft is different in thickness, the thicker thread woven in the same direction. Lastly, a textile was woven with spaces the same as the width of the reed mark in every two warps. There were five compound weave found. Among them one was made with non-twisted thread for warp and s-twist thread for weft. One plain braiding with apparent spaces between threads were found. All three of the twining were made with wefts thicker than warps, barely showing the warps as a result. Textiles of the Soochonri tombs are the oldest of the Baekje Kingdom studied by far and therefore important artifacts of the Baekje Kingdom. These textiles are similar to those found in the King Muryeong's Tomb and tombs of Gaya and Shilla.