• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.49-57
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress of Bouyei People of Guizhou Province. The resuits of the study ara as follows. 1. Women's dress and adorment can be categorized into three styles. In the Zhenning, Guanling and Puding regions and northwestern areas of Guizhou Province, women usually wear blouses with overlapping necks, batik pleated skirts and long aprons. They also wear embroidered kerchiefs or turbans. In the suburbs of Guiyand City and Southwestern Guizhou Province, women like to wear blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, trousers, blue or black and white check cloth kerchiefs. In the Luoping region, women wear blouses with loose sleeves and buttons arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. 2. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front or arranged on the front, trousers and calottes. 3. Most of their dress materials are white and coloured handwoven, tie-dyed or batik cloth. The exquisite technique of batik and tie-dyeing has a long history, which began to become prevalent in the Song Dynasty. 4. Now, people use all kinds of techniques to make their dress and adornment, including batik, tie-dyeing, cross-stitch, brocade and embroidery, which reflect their peculiar aesthetic temperament.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.44-59
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• 2020

This investigated the romanticism of Alessandro Michele who leads new trends in fashion industry as a creative director for Gucci. In this study, 307 women's wears exhibited by Alessandro Michele for 3 years in Milan collections from 2015 F/W to 2017 F/W are categorized according to the aesthetic characteristics of romanticism. Additionally, the five aesthetic features of Gucci's fashion design are an addition since the appearance of abnormally large size under the influence of postmodernism. The results based on the study purpose are as follows. First, the decoration makes the garments stand out by using fancy materials, splendid multicolor combination, applique embroidery and three-dimensional objects. Second, exotic style is expressed from an occidental perspective using Chinese traditional fashion or textiles, and exotic accessories. Thirdly, sensuality is manifested using see-through materials to emphasize women's breasts, or the beautiful and sexual expression of women's body. Fourth, the new creations are designed by combining contrasting elements, such as disparate materials and, different genders. Furthermore, traditional cultures like baroque and rococo, and the 1970's vintage looks inspires the creation of retro-style. Finally, the appearance of extremely large shoulders, silhouettes, and details of the human body can be explained with expansive tendency. The aforementioned results further suggest that diverse characteristics are expressed via reflection of contemporary art and trends.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.135-153
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• 2000

Shoes originated from the practical purposes : to protect feet from heat, cold. etc., and developed into various shapes. representing ornamentation and hierarchy. It was revealed that the aesthetic value was differently manifested from the practical one by different natural environments and socio-cultural Phenomena of the times in the East and the West. Comparing shoes in the East with those in the West, this study finds out the origin of shoes in the East and the West, and shapes and characteristics of shoes through the changes of times. Investigating various kinds of shoes in the East and the West, it also finds out the differences in status representations. Shoes are classified into the following styles : in the West. (i) sandal in which the instep was almost exposed, tied with strips and fixed with band, (ii) closed shoes covering the instep, (iii) boots that arose above the ankle: in the East, (i) shoes without shoe neck (리) boots with shoe neck (화) and wooden shoes (극). Status was also represented in shoes. In the West. the status difference was manifested mainly by jewelry or embroidery ornamentation. In particular, it was realized by the way they tied the shoes in Rome and by the length of the pointed front of the shoes in Romanesque and Gothic period. In the East, China, Korea and Japan, on the other hand, the use of shoes was regulated in detail by the official costume system, where material and color played an important role in marking the status.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.5 s.207
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• pp.249-265
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• 2005

Creative application in elaborate techniques can not only make design constructs productive but also can widen designers' figurative perspectives. There are many techniques applied in fashion design such as folds, patchworks, embroidery, dyeing, industrial treatment, etc. In particular, folds play a significant part in enlightening clothes uniqueness in contemporary fashion design. The primary purpose of this study was to make new suggestion for the production of high value-added fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing fold expressions. Diverse fold designs were retrieved through a comprehensive literature review on topic-related books, fashion dictionaries, and fashion encyclopedias. Significant cases of fashion designs using folds were retrieved from fashion magazines uploaded from 2000. There are three types of folds applied in fashion design. (1) The folds by needlework like tucks, smocking, shirring, and trimming type folds(ruffle, frill, flounce, and ruche). (2) The folds by chemical or mechanical treatment like permanent pleats and crinkle. (3) The folds of formative dress like drape. From a comprehensive review of the folds design cases after 2000, the following characteristics of folds design were identified: (1) a highlighted role in the whole, (2) mixture and deformation of techniques and materials, (3) 3-D surface effect, (4) creation of a unique figurative beauty, and (5) expression of diverse fashion image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.679-690
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to comprehend western style in fashion and to contemplate the hybrid tendency reflected on western style, thereby to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of the hybrid tendency of western style. For such purposes, this study first examines western style historically, in order to analyze hybrid tendency reflected on western style, and conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials of pr t- -porter collection since 1980s. The result of this study is as follows: the hybrid tendency reflected on western style are modification and fusion of regional culture, adaptation and composition of subcultures, and appropriation of sexual minority culture. (1) Modification and fusion of regional culture is expressed in ethnic items and patterns of embroidery, mixing Mexican and Spanish, American Indian and American cultural references. (2) Adaptation and composition of subcultures emphasize traditional or vintage western style by mixing characteristics of western and other subcultures. (3) Appropriation of sexual minority culture is expressed in rhinestone chaps and fetish corset, glitter rodeo suit, reminiscent of drag or queer cultural references. The result of this study will provide basis which can be utilized in the development and educational background of fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1047-1058
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• 2009

Japanism represents a Japanese sense presented in Collections by many world-class western designers who are inspired by Japanese Kimonos. This study analyzes how the traditional Japanese costumes were applied to the modern clothing and the mix and match style appeared at the Japanism fashion based on the Fashion Collections during the three years from the spring of 2006 to the winter of 2008. The analysis was performed based on preceding studies, literature, fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, and the Collections during the three years. The results of this study on Japanism covers: the application of Kimono design, Kimono sleeves, Kimono neck line to coats, jackets, one-pieces, and blouses; the application of traditional geometrical patterns, flower patterns, and natural patterns. These patterns were presented by print, dyeing, and embroidery; lastly, the employment, utilization, function, and adjustment of Obi(belt) to Japanese style clothing and also to modern clothing. Japanism fashion presented sportism, feminism, and eroticism by using mix and match. This analysis can contribute to the application of the ethnic clothing to modern clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.108-127
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the principles of clothing design and the way of design approach in Lamanova. She caused a revolution in the art of dress and created the foundation for costume design theory. She Addressed Art in everyday life to self-taught dressmakers. The distinguishing feature of the design is simplicity and functionality. In an article "The Russian Style", Lamanova raised the question of the new Soviet costume and traditional costume. In "On Contemporary Costume" she classified the new forms of clothes into everyday and holiday attire, showed the principles of costume, and analyzed in detail the necessity of constructing a costume to suit the individual figure. In "On the Rationality of Costume", she found a basis theory for clothing design which is for whom, from what, and for what purpose. Lamanova's theory was made public in full in 1928 and was presented at the exhibition of Handmade Textiles and Embroidery in Women's Contemporary Costume. The main contents are the costume's purpose, it's material, the figure of its wearer, and its form. She argued that the new costume could be in line with the new life and her theory could be the creed of clothing designers. The principles of Lamanova's theory can still be applied today, not only in Russian traditional and contemporary costume, but in contemporary world fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.176-192
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• 2015

This work aims at analyzing the comparative feature about female flight attendant uniform designs of Korean and Asian region low cost carriers and providing some basic materials for development of these airline companies. As a research method, examinations were carried out on attendant's uniform both theoretically and empirically. Comparison of uniforms was made among the five Korean carriers and ten typical Asian carriers for empirical research. Results showed the followings. First, all Korean low cost carriers were characterized as formal style except Jin Air. Unlike this, Asian low cost carriers appeared as diverse including formal, semi formal, and casual styles with a uniquely differentiated image. Second, all carriers applied their own symbolic color to their uniform. Third, logo or symbol was adopted as a pattern on scarf in the two Korean companies but it didn't take effect practically. For those Asian carriers, embroidery was used on jacket, jumper and collar. They utilized even a merchandising character to put emphasis on airline image. Fourth, diverse petty items with a decorative effect were used in the case of Korean low cost carriers. In the changing period of uniform, nothing much was changed and remained almost the same as before. Those in the Asian region were characterized with the smallest number of items and the preclusion of decorative add-ons on uniform.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.58-75
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of fur and leather clothes of minority races of China in Northeas and Inner Mongolia. To examine their characteristics, the clothes and ornaments were classified into four types: headwear, clothes, footwear, and accessories. First, headwear was divided into animal head-shaped, petal-shaped, round-shaped, and cone-shaped head wear. Among them, the animal head-shaped headwear was made by making the best use of the shape of animal's head and it was used as the best disguising method when hunting. Second, clothes were composed of upper garments and lower garments. For the upper garments, Po and Jeogori were worn and pants were worn for the lower garments. The clothes were decorated with lining, applique, or top-stitching on the outer collar, neck circumference, and the edge of sleeves and pants. Third, for the footwear, high boots of leather were developed to meet the needs for a convenient life in the plains. In some areas, fur shoes and leather shoes were also used. Finally, accessories included bags and gloves. Bags were usually decorated with fur on the outside or with a fringe or applique of tanned leather. Gloves were lavishly decorated with embroideries and partly with fur or leather.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.1-17
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• 2010

There had been studied for a function of fashion illustration that has various capability of differentiation among fashion products since year 2000. A fashion products adopted the illustration is stand out not only to increase the goods profits by consumers who is willing to purchase the products with specified identity but also to execute differentiation strategy in a market. The aim of this study is the theoretical approach of fashion illustration and examined the development process of the products based on the supporting documents of cooperations, other records and actual application cases. Also, expression techniques of fashion illustration, image features and etc. are mainly studied and following representative results are projected through the data. First, the success of fashion commercialization using fashion illustration should have mutual organic function which requires three factors such as product project, marketing, the role of illustration. Second, An illustration of hand drawing expression technique is more helpful in differentiation of fashion product than using computer graphic, embroidery, collage technique and the fashion products vividly expressed with sensuous illustration tend to have higher preference. Third, the possibility of success the fashion products is often affected by the distinct identification and the precise positioning while the illustration is used.