• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.6
• /
• pp.78-90
• /
• 2014

This paper examines the way that the principles of coloration for Hoecha(繪次) and Sucha(繡次) were applied for shoe making in ancient China and Korea. Hoecha is the principle of drawing, and Sucha is the principle of embroidery. Hoecha and Sucha is the application principle of the five colors(五方色) from the five elements(五行: metal, wood, water, fire, and earth). Hoecha matchs a color with the opposite side color, and Sucha matchs a color with the beside color. A shoe consists of Sinul(body of shoe) and ornaments attached to it. According to the ratings of shoes, Hoecha and Sucha were differently applied for coloration of Sinul and its ornaments. In general, shoes were classified into Seok and Gu. For Seok, which was the high-ranked shoes, Hoecha was applied, while Sucha was applied to Gu, the low ranked shoe. As Hoecha was originally a principle of coloration for patterns on tops(jacket. 上衣), it was applied to the high ranked shoes i.e., Seok. Also, as Sucha was a principle of coloration for patterns on bottoms(skirt. 下裳), it was applied to the low ranked shoes i.e., Gu. Thus, black was decorated on red Seok, blue on white Seok, red on black Seok, yellow on hyeon(玄: a kind of black color) Seok, and white on blue Seok, all of which were applications of the principle of Hoecha. As the application of the principle of Hoecha to Seok was also done for red Seok for males and females in late Joseon, and red Seok for the crown prince in the period of the Korean Empire, black decorations were used for red Sinul. However, for blue Seok, worn by females in the period of the Korean Empire where Ming's systems prevailed, black decorations were used, which was an application of Sucha. Though there had been no discrimination between genders in the application of Hoecha and Sucha originally, the low ranked principle of coloration was applied to Seok for females.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.8
• /
• pp.39-52
• /
• 2003

This study was classified according to types added ‘Seon(선)’ to the dress of Chosun Dynasty and analyzed them into formative characteristics. the results were as follows ; 1, ‘Seon’ is divided into three types of the standard, the decoration and the application. According to three types, the types of the standard are subdivided into Jemul Seon(the shape put the right side into lining) and the different color Seon. The types of the decoration are subdivided into Stitch, Surround, Gild and Embroidery form. And the types of the application are subdivided into Piping, Fur, Braid and Metallic form. 2, It showed as the different color Seon and Jemul Seon in the case of men dress and as the different color Seon and Gild form in that of women dress. 3, Its application showed in the ceremonial dress and ‘Po(袍)’ types of men dress and in the ceremonial dress and as accessories of women dress. 4, It was used as complementary color tone in both men and women dress. 5, It was used as its surface in men dress and as its reverse side in women dress according to Seon of style. 6, It was used as ‘Sa(紗)’ in men dress and as ‘Dan(緞)’ in women dress according to Seon of texture. 7, Seon of an aesthetic characteristics was distinguished according to Seon of forms, that is to say, Jemul Seon standed for calm beauty, Two color Seon standed for dynamic beauty, Stitch, Surround and Piping form standed for delicate beauty, Gild and Embroidery form standed for brilliant beauty and Fur, Braid and Metallic form standed for solid beauty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.185-205
• /
• 2015

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yi tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ pattern have a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse, splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yi tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and patterns through related books, research papers and inter web sites. As for the result, the Yi tribe's costumes consisted of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the favorite color of the costume is black color, there are splendid embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ decorations with the colors of red, yellow, green and purple on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs or a part of a trousers and aprons. Patterns in their traditional clothing also show details that depict traditional cultural ideas that have long been formed in various fields, such as aesthetics, religion, philosophy, and customs. Moreover, most patterns displayed in their traditional clothing contain nature motifs and represent unique and beautiful designs; some patterns are even reminiscent of abstract paintings by modern artists. In conclusion, the traditional patterns of Chinese ethnic minorities reflect the values and notions of these races as well as decorative magnificence and a unique spiritual image. In other words, traditional patterns indicate the spiritual depth or symbolic stories beyond mere formative beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.31 no.8
• /
• pp.1252-1261
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study was to grasp the utilization of traditional Korean Patterns used for fashion cultural products. To achieve this purpose, this study examined the range of fashion cultural products through literature review, previous researches, and market surveys and analyzed the situation of fashion cultural products and the kinds, expression methods, expression techniques, and repeat styles of utilized patterns. The analysis results are as follows. First, in the use of traditional pattern, the most frequently-used fashion cultural products were small and inexpensive accessories, followed by fashion apparel, miscellaneous goods, and living cultural goods. Second, the most frequently-used traditional patterns were plant patterns, especially flower patterns. The next frequently-used ones were mixed patterns, especially in the mixture of flower and letter patterns, and $cloisonn\'{e}$ and flower patterns. The next frequently-used traditional patterns were animal patterns(especially butterfly patterns), followed by geometric patterns, lucky omen patterns, and letter patterns. In the expression methods of used patterns, most products except handicrafts preferred simplified patterns to real patterns. Finally, in the expression techniques of traditional patterns, the most frequently used technique was traditional embroidery, followed by the use of weaving fabrics such as fine gauze and brocade which are used for Hanbok. Also, transfer dyeing which is one of printing techniques, DTP(digital textiles printing), a mixed technique which adds embroidery to weaving fabrics, hand-painting, and a gilt technique were used. The results of this study suggest that most fashion cultural products except few designers' works attached weight to some specified patterns and expression techniques regardless of the characteristics of products since there is little understanding of a variety of patterns and are few researches and development on expression techniques.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.27 no.4
• /
• pp.384-397
• /
• 2019

The purpose of this study is to analyze the eco-friendly design characteristics of contemporary children's collections. Photos from FirstviewKorea were utilized for analysis; 29 brands were selected that included children's clothing collections featuring eco-friendly characteristics from 2007 to 2018. The results are as follows. First, naturalness was the most frequent characteristic of environmentally friendly children's collections. It was not conveyed in an eccentric way in any season, showed a relatively uniform distribution, and was seen in various ways, including printed on the fabric and expressed in $appliqu\acute{e}s$ and embroidery. Second, handcrafted features frequently changed according to seasonal trends. Various methods such as beading, embroidery, applique, sewing techniques, and handbags were used, which enhanced manual workability, discrimination from other designs. Third, traditionality is divided into the characteristics of ethnicity and revivalism. National traditions were expressed in the clothing and reflected the current generation while connecting to the past. Fourth, simplicity appeared in classic designs such as simple silhouettes, sparse decoration, natural colors, and comfortable dress length that is not tight on the body. Simplicity was not a frequent feature due to the characteristics of the children's clothing collections. Fifth, playfulness functioned to enhance the children's clothing's wear frequency. Although it was the least frequent of all the characteristics, it seemed to increase the design fun and the clothing's value by fusing with other characteristics such as handcraftedness and naturalness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.21 no.3
• /
• pp.109-119
• /
• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine fashion trends and the direction of the four fashion collections by analyzing the design key-words of the four major international fashion collections in 2018. The data of this study was collected by extracting the key-words from Marie Claire Korea in 2018, with the total of the collected data numbering 2,144. The data was analyzed by text mining using the R program and word-cloud, and a co-occurrence network analysis was conducted. The results of this study are as follows: First, the key-words of fashion collection designs in 2018 were fringe and ruffle detail, silk and denim fabric, vivid color, stripe and check pattern, pants suit item, and oversized silhouette, focusing on romanticism and sport. Second, seasonal characteristics of the fashion collections were pastel colors in S/S, primary and vivid colors in F/W. Details were embroidery and cutouts in S/S, patchwork and fringe in F/W. Third, the design trends of the four major fashion collections were presented in the Paris collection: stripes, check patterns, embroidery, lace, tailoring, draping, romanticism, and glamor. In the Milan collection, checks, prints, denim, and minidresses reflected sport and romanticism. The London collection included fringe, ruffles, floral patterns, flower patterns, and romanticism. The New York collections included vivid colors, neon colors, pastel colors, oversize silhouettes, bodysuits, and long dresses.

• Journal of the Microelectronics and Packaging Society
• /
• v.27 no.4
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2020

This paper reviews the recent development of electronic textile technology, mainly focusing on chip-textile bonding. Before the chip-textile bonding, a circuit on the textile should be prepared to supply the electrical power and signal to the chip mounted on the fabrics. Either embroidery with conductive yarn or screen-printing with the conductive paste can be applied to implement the circuit on the fabrics depending on the circuit density and resolution. Next, chip-textile bonding can be performed. There are two choices for chip-textile bonding: fixed connection methods such as soldering, ACF/NCA, embroidery, crimping, and secondly removable connection methods like a hook, magnet, zipper. Following the chip-textile bonding process, the chip on the textile is generally encapsulated using PDMS to ensure reliability like water-proof.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.31 no.4
• /
• pp.504-518
• /
• 2023

The objective of this study was to explore the symbolism associated with phoenix patterns in China and the temporal aesthetic characteristics of these patterns found in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. The study involved collecting examples of clothing designs featuring phoenix patterns from China Fashion Week and the Vogue website, spanning from spring and summer of 2016 to fall and winter of 2022. After collecting and organizing these examples, representative cases were selected for analysis. The objective was to identify effective techniques for incorporating phoenix patterns within the context of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and provided insights for future clothing design and textile pattern design research. Phoenix patterns boasted a lengthy history and were laden with symbolic meaning. Early renditions of phoenix patterns found at Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang were relatively simplistic in design, mainly employing elements like rhythm, coordination, balance and symmetry to convey a sense of nature and gravity. Over time, these patterns evolved under the influence of the prevailing cultural backdrop, employing repeated emphasis to portray notions of abundance and tenacity. Furthermore, regarding the use of phoenix patterns in clothing, there were four prevalent expression techniques: embroidery, beading, printing, and knitting. Traditional techniques like embroidery and beadwork often prioritized aesthetic features like coordination, emphasis, and symmetry, thereby showcasing the opulent characteristics of phoenix patterns. On the other hand, printing and knitting techniques used a single phoenix pattern or a modified version to simplify designs by emphasizing or repeating aesthetic characteristics while adhering to a modern artistic approach.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
• /
• 2009.11a
• /
• pp.58-61
• /
• 2009

최근 직물전극을 의복에 적용하여 의복을 착용한 상태에서 심전도, 심박과 같은 생체신호를 측정하는 방법이 다양하게 연구되고 있다. 그러나 대부분 직물전극의 경우, 높은 임피던스와 피부-전극 간의 불안정한 접촉으로 인해 생체신호를 측정하는 것은 매우어렵다는 문제점들이 지적되어 왔다. 이 논문에서는 피부-전극 간의 접촉을 향상시키기 위한 전극의 구조를 고안하여 의복에 적용함으로써, 착용자의 피부와 직물전극간의 접촉을 안정화 시킨 후, ECG(Electrocardiogram)를 측정하였다. 본 연구의 실험에 사용한 전극의 특성 분석 방법으로는 전극의 임피던스와 그에 따른 ECG 를 측정하여 SNR 분석을 실시하였다. 직물전극의 두 가지 구조와 직물전극과 트랜스미터 연결 스냅간 접촉 방식에 따른 ECG 측정을 비교한 결과, 전극 구조와 전도성 paste 사용 여부는 모두 ECG 측정에 영향을 미쳤다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.1
• /
• pp.11-21
• /
• 2004

This study examined the kinds, shape, technique, and arrangement of pattern for the Korean traditional women costume between 1995 and 2002. The sources used this study were collected from the magazine “HANBOK, ONGOJISHIN, BEAUTIFUL OUR DRESS” Results were as follows 1) In the kinds of pattern, the most pattern of use was the flower pattern, and the geometric pattern showed the trend of increase. these results mean the use of pattern lately is progressed by the new direction. 2) In the shape of pattern, the style shapes were decreased gradually and the geometric shapes were increased. these results show that the modern beauty is chased. 3) In the technique of pattern. the results viewed that the embroidery technique used in the meantime decreased and the JOGAKBO technique increased. 4) In the arrangement of pattern, the modern arrangement was most superior in the most of year. That is estimated the arrangement of pattern have been chased the modern beauty than the others of pattern.