• 제목/요약/키워드: Dyeing of silk

검색결과 499건 처리시간 0.019초

동아일보(東亞日報)에 나타난 복식연구(服飾硏究) (A Study on the Costumes in the Dong A II Bo - $1920{\sim}1945$ -)

  • 손명임;김진구
    • 복식
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    • 제14권
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    • pp.145-165
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    • 1990
  • This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

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종이 의상에 관한 연구 - 수제지를 중심으로 - (A Study on the Paper Clothing -on the basis of handmade paper-)

  • 이주실;김정혜
    • 복식
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    • 제44권
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    • pp.181-199
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    • 1999
  • The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

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연사방법에 따른 아세테이트/폴리에스터 복합사 편성물의 역학적 특성 및 3D CAD System에 의한 외관특성 (Mechanical Properties and 3D CAD Images of the Appearance of Knitted Fabric with Acetate/Polyester Composite Yarn by Different Yarn Twisting Methods)

  • 김소진;전동원;박영환
    • 한국염색가공학회지
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    • 제18권1호
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    • pp.33-43
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

포름알데히드에 의한 전통직물의 손상 특성 (Damage Characteristics of Korean Traditional Textiles by Formaldehyde)

  • 김명남;임보아;이선명
    • 보존과학회지
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    • 제30권4호
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    • pp.353-364
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    • 2014
  • 포름알데히드는 전시 수장 공간에서 농도와 발생빈도가 높아 전통직물(천연염색)에 대한 손상 개연성이 있다. 본 연구는 견, 면, 모시, 삼베의 무염색, 천연염색(적색, 황색, 청색, 흑색) 시편을 대상으로 포름알데히드 0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500ppm 농도에서의 손상, 손상농도 500ppm에서 온습도 조건에 따른 손상과 열화상태에서의 손상을 광학적, 화학적, 물리적 측정방법으로 평가하였다. 이 결과, 포름알데히드 농도 500ppm에서 일부 직물의 색차, 변퇴색등급, 포름산이온 농도, pH가 변화하였으며, 고온 고습조건($30^{\circ}C$, 80%), 고습조건($25^{\circ}C$, 80%)에서는 색차, 변퇴색등급, 포름산이온 농도가 2배 가중되었다. 그러나, 열화직물은 열화정도, 열화 생성물질로 인해 포름알데히드에 의한 손상변화가 미미하였다. 이를 통해 포름알데히드에 의한 전통직물의 손상, 손상농도, 손상가중 조건, 열화상태에서의 손상을 확인하였으며, 포름알데히드는 적색직물의 황변, 열화직물의 황변 탈색, 포름산은 전체직물의 탈색에 영향을 미치는 것으로 나타났다.

이산화황에 의한 전통직물의 손상 특성 (Damage Characteristics of Korean Traditional Textiles by Sulfur Dioxide)

  • 김명남;임보아;신은정;이선명
    • 보존과학회지
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    • 제28권4호
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    • pp.321-328
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    • 2012
  • 본 연구에서는 전통직물 4종(견, 면, 모시, 삼베)을 선정하고, 각 직물의 원직물을 포함한 염색별 5종으로 구분하여 이산화황 가스($SO_2$) 농도에 따른 손상특성을 살펴보기 위해 가스 열화실험을 실시하였으며 각 농도와 손상특성간의 정량적인 상관성을 규명하고자 하였다. 이를 위해 전통직물 시편을 대상으로 가스부식시험기를 이용하여 $SO_2$ 0.01, 0.12, 1, 10, 100, 1000, 5000ppm의 농도로 24시간 노출 실험을 하였으며 노출 전 후의 광학적, 물리적, 화학적 손상도를 평가하였다. 이 결과, 가스 농도의 증가에 따른 전통직물의 색차 증가와 변퇴색 등급 저하 등 광학적 변화를 확인한 반면 물리적 변화는 뚜렷하지 않음을 알 수 있었다. 또한 가스 농도증가에 따른 직물시편 내 잔류 황산이온 농도의 증가 및 pH 감소에 의한 직물 재질의 산성화를 통해 화학적 손상을 확인하였다. 이 같은 손상도 변화를 종합한 결과 이산화황 가스에 의한 전통직물의 손상농도는 1ppm/day임을 도출하였다.

조선시대 다회장과 매듭장의 역할 규명 (A Study on the Roles of Daheojang and Maedeupjang in the Joseon Dynasty)

  • 설지희
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제54권3호
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    • pp.52-67
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    • 2021
  • 본 논문은 조선시대 다회장과 매듭장의 협업 관계 규명을 시도하였다. 근대 변혁기를 거치며 다회장은 해체되었으며 매듭장은 국가무형문화재로 지정되었다. 이는 과거를 매듭장 중심으로 바라보는 계기가 되었다. 반면 다회장의 인식과 연구는 매듭장의 일부 공정 정도로만 소략하게 진행되었다. 본 연구는 문헌기록을 중심으로 조선시대 다회장과 매듭장의 역할을 규명해보았다. 다회장은 여러 올의 명주실을 엮거나 꼬아 띠와 끈을 만든 장인이었다. 제작한 끈으로 매듭을 맺거나 망수·술을 만들어 장엄용 공예품을 제작하기도 하였다. 다회는 품목과 기법이 다양한 공예 기술이었다. 예복, 예악, 장황 등 장엄물과 관끈, 조대, 주머니끈, 노리개 등 일상품으로 폭넓게 제작되었다. 대형유소부터 방석끝까지 크고 작은 쓰임새가 많았기 때문에 거의 모든 의궤에 다회장이 소속되었다. 현대사회에는 매듭장이 정련, 염색, 합사, 다회, 매듭, 술 등 전 과정을 담당하지만 조선시대에는 다회장이 과정의 주축을 담당하였다. 도감 설치 시 다회장과 매듭장이 모두 귀속된 방은 연여를 제작하는 방이었다. 다회장과 매듭장의 협업 관계는 연여에 수식되는 대형유소에서 발생하였다. 대형유소는 2m 넘는 길이의 굵은 원다회로 매듭을 맺은 장엄용 공예품이다. 다회장이 원다회를 짜면 매듭장이 섬세하고 균형 있는 매듭을 맺었다. 또 굵은 원다회에 망수와 술을 달아 인장을 꾸미는 인수도 분담하여 제작하였다. 기술은 인간의 생애 속에서 시대의 필요에 따라 발전과 쇠퇴를 반복한다. 전통 기술을 직시하기 위해서는 시대적 제도와 사회상의 흐름을 살펴볼 필요가 있다. 본 논문은 조선시대 때 보편적인 장색이었으나 오늘날 낯선 존재가 된 다회장을 입체적으로 조명하였다는 데 의미가 있다.

천연염색직물의 물리적 색채 특성과 심리적 감성 요인 (Physical Colorimetric Properties and Psychological Sensibility Factor of Naturally Dyed Fabrics)

  • 이유진;이경현;조길수
    • 감성과학
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    • 제19권3호
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    • pp.3-14
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    • 2016
  • 본 연구에서는 천연염료와 직물종류, 매염유무의 세 가지 조건에 대한 천연염색직물의 물리적 색채 특성을 측정하고, 심리적 색채감성평가를 실시하였다. 이에 대하여 염료의 종류, 직물의 종류, 매염제의 유무에 따른 물리적 색채 특성 차이를 살펴보기 위하여 분산분석을 실시하였으며, 상관관계분석을 통해 물리적 색채 특성과 심리적 감성간의 관계를 분석하고, 회귀분석을 이용해 천연염색에 대한 예측식을 도출하였다. 최종적으로, 천연염색직물에 대한 감성 이미지 맵을 제안하기 위하여 다차원 척도법(Multidimensional Scaling: MDS)을 이용하였다. 이를 통해, 대표적으로 남성적인(masculine)인 이미지에는 무거운, 딱딱한 색채감성을 갖는 치자염색이, 여성스러운(feminine) 이미지에는 밝고 투명하고 부드러우면서 가벼운 색채감성을 갖는 소목과 락, 치자청을 사용한 염색이 적합하다. 내츄럴(natural)한 이미지를 나타내기 위해서는 은은한 색채감성의 쑥 염색이 적절하고, 화려한 색채감성의 쪽으로 염색을 한다면 액티브(active)한 이미지를 가질 수 있을 것이라 예측 가능하다.

몽골 시베트 하이르한 유적 선비 시기(1~3세기) 고분 출토 직물의 섬유와 염료 분석 (Analysis of an ancient textiles from the Xianbei period tombs of the Shiveet Khairkhan site, Mongolia)

  • 윤은영;유지아;박세린;안보연
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제55권4호
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    • pp.166-177
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    • 2022
  • 시베트 하이르한 유적은 알타이지역 바양 울기 아이막 가운데 쳉겔 솜에 위치하며 다양한 유적이 확인된 유라시아 초원의 중요한 지역이다. 본 연구에서는 몽골 시베트 하이르한 유적의 1~3세기 선비 시기 고분에서 출토된 직물의 섬유와 염료의 특성을 조사하였다. 섬유 식별을 위해 현미경 관찰과 감쇠전반사 푸리에 변환 적외선 분광기를 이용해 분석한 결과, 녹색과 황색 직물은 견직물로 확인되었다. 염료의 분석은 비파괴 분석이 가능한 자외-가시광분광광도계를 이용하여 염직물의 표면 반사도를 측정하였다. 그 결과 녹색 직물은 인디고 염료의 반사스펙트럼과 유사하게 나타났다. 또한 기체 크로마토그래피-질량분석기를 이용한 성분 분석 결과에서도 인디고 염료의 이사틴과 인디고틴이 검출되었다. 이사틴과 인디고틴은 인디고 염료의 특성 성분으로 선비 시기 고분의 녹색 직물은 인디고 염료를 사용하여 염색한 것을 알 수 있었다. 황색 직물은 반사스펙트럼과 기체 크로마토그래피-질량분석 결과 염료의 종류를 규명하기 어려웠다. 인디고 식물은 수천 년 전부터 청색계 염색에 사용하는 염료이자 전 세계에 다수 종이 분포한다. 선비 시기 고분에서 출토된 직령의(直領衣)는 약 1,800년의 시간이 지났음에도 녹색 직물에서 인디고 염료 성분인 인디고틴과 이사틴이 잘 남아있음을 확인할 수 있었다. 직물 문화재에 대한 과학적 조사는 보존처리, 원형 복원, 전시 및 보존환경 조성 등을 위해 필수적인 과정이다. 앞으로도 관련 연구가 활성화되어 당시 생활 문화 해석과 직물 문화재의 보존처리 및 보존환경 조성에 도움이 되길 기대한다.

1920년대 소비에트 구성주의 패션에 관한 연구 (A Study on Soviet Constructive Fashion in 1920s)

  • 조윤경;금기숙
    • 복식
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    • 제36권
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    • pp.183-203
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    • 1998
  • The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

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