• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.101-113
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• 2016

This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.208-218
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to identify the designers' and the patterner's pattern making, draping and the use of dress form in domestic companies of designer's brand to present basic information for effective pattern works. It turned out that the designer brand companies at home use flat pattern and draping at the same time rather than draping only The effects of the use of draping lies in unique designs and elastic materials, which seems proper phenomena for the current design trend such as high duality and diversification. But, draping has such problems that the pattern takes long time to be finished and that the staffs don't acquire well the needed skills due to the lack of draping education. To secure the high added value of fashion, it is required to develop education programs for new skills and to apply draping actively. Also, it requires an educational system in which practice oriented skills are cultivated, and efficient investment into apparel business.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.346-360
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• 2021

Universities have recently introduced problem-based learning (PBL) to various subjects to enhance problem-solving skills (including self-directed learning and small-group learning) required in industry. The PBL module was applied to the personal production process in a draping class. A study was based on a questionnaire after conducting two PBL modules with a group of students. Each PBL module included 'design analysis', 'presentation of flat sketch and draping plan', 'discussion of the plan', 'evaluation of the draping result and correcting the problem', and 'final evaluation of the completed project'. Results showed that satisfaction with the PBL method and its activities was higher than satisfaction with existing teaching methods. In particular, among the various components, the 'design analysis' and 'the presentation step of flat sketch and draping plan' stages were more helpful to students compared to small-group discussion. Moreover, the effects of PBL were observed through student reflection essays, in which students suggested that PBL was very effective in enhancing problem-solving through self-directed and small-group learning. Despite the overall satisfaction with PBL, students expressed some minor difficulties associated with awkwardness with a novel learning method, lack of diverse perspectives among each group, and poor communication skills. Therefore, the study shows that PBL is highly likely to be useful to students when they are solving pattern drafting problems and making samples through self-directed learning and small-group learning.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Information and Commucation Sciences Conference
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.599-602
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• 2005

This paper utilizing model picture of finished clothes in fashion design field various material (textile fabrics) doing Draping directly can invent new design, and do not produce direction sample or poetic theme width and confirm clothes work to simulation. Also, construct database about model and material image that can confirm Mapping result by real time. Development did the 2.5D Mapping system that used path extraction algorithm, warp algorithm, a lighting extraction and application algorithm in order to implement natural Draping of model picture and material image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.5-22
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• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.892-907
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to compare torso pattern made by draping and flat pattern method in terms of the size of breast. The size of this study was classified as 75A and 75D according to the size of breast. Each torso pattern by the combination of the size and pattern method was compared and analyzed. In order to test the fit of the draping and flat pattern that was developed according to the size of breast, the outer appearance was evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, The most striking size difference was difference between the front and the back on bust line level, which decides on position of the side seam in comparison of size between draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. In the flat pattern, the difference between the front and the back in the size of breast was consistent regardless of a change in the size of breast. However, in the draping, the bigger breast led to the bigger difference between the front and the back on bustline level. Second, the flat pattern in 75D was evaluated to be the worst in 27 items among total 46 items for the evaluation of outer appearance in the draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. Third, regardless of size, the draping was evaluated to be more suitable in the areas related to neck, arm hole, and waist dart than the flat pattern. These results are suggesting that the draping is a method of reflecting characteristic of the body type more accurately than the flat pattern, and that the draping is a more suitable method than the flat pattern for the design of clothing pattern of the body type with big breast like 75D.

• Design & Manufacturing
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.25-30
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• 2019

This paper presents the design strategy for the optimal RTM molds of Carbon Fiber Reinforced Plastic (CFRP) by carbon fiber draping and resin flow simulation. First, the mold shape and molding condition were determined considering the undercut and die face of the product in the draping simulation, which made the preliminary shape of the product by compressing the carbon fiber. After that, the diffusion behavior during the injection of resin in the mold was predicted by the resin flow simulation. Finally, the optimal mold shape was designed by selecting the locations of resin injection port and vent based on total results of simulations. In this paper, the mold of automotive side mirror case was selected as the representative product. Also, the actual mold was manufactured based on the simulation design to confirm the practicality of it. This study is expected to contribute to the industry as a technology to improve the reliability and productivity of CFRP producted by RTM process.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.611-619
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• 2008

2.5D Mapping system that embody in this paper can make new design by doing draping to live various texture and model picture image of fashion clothes by pattern, and can confirm clothes work to simulation without producing direction sample or product directly. Also, the system can support function that can forecast fabric design and state of end article exactly, and the system can bring competitive power elevation of fashion industry and cost-cutting effect by doing draping using database of fabric and model picture image. 2.5D Mapping system composed and embodied by mesh warp algorithm module, light and shade extraction and application module, mapping path extraction module, mesh creation and transformation module, and 2.5D mapping module for more natural draping. Future work plans to study 3D fashion design system that graft together 3D clothes technology and 3D human body embodiment technology to do based on embodiment technology of 2.5D mapping system and overcomes expression limit of 2.5D mapping technology.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.2 s.216
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• pp.127-135
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• 2006

This paper suggests guidelines for virtual clothes modeling and draping software suitable for clothes designers. We first analyze Maya Cloth, which is widely used in game and animation fields, and which has been adopted by Pad System as a 3D cloth draping system. We then discuss what functions and procedures would improve Maya Cloth to assist designers in being able to create the clothes they have conceptualized. While Maya Cloth has many good functions and features forvirtual cloth modeling and draping, it treats input 2D patterns as approximat and it creates 3D clothes by considering other factors such as the 3D body model. As a result, it is hard for clothes designers to control the shape of the 3D clothes by changing 2D patterns. Furthermore, Maya Cloth does not handle seamlines satisfactorily. We suggest that the following new features should be added to Maya Cloth : respecting the input 2D patterns, handling seamlines, and controlling the shape of the clothes in 3D space.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.562-577
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• 2003

The object of my research is to inquiry into the immediate constituent and techniques of underwear after looking into basic theory of underwear, techniques by materials classified according to the matter of elasticity, and studying flat pattern and draping which are basis of corset and brassiere structure focusing on corsetry among underwears and production techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. To make the flat pattern of corset and brassiere fit to the body tightly, design dart two times without any space and draw smaller than the body. To support the breast sufficiently, move the side seam 1¼″ to the front panel and the seam should pass the apex in all occasions. For draping, dart should be added into short of elasticity materials in the past but dart is no use these days since the material today is extremely elastic. It is possible now to show the body line with only the seam or a pattern. In a case of elastic material, set the elastic direction to the grain line and have a draping as pulling from the center to the out side. As production technic, for an hem, put a zigzag stitch in elastic materials with a 10-20% short elastic band, pulling the band. Then make 3/16″-1/4″ short inseam.