• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.115-134
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• 2009

This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.91-107
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the experimental design by using deconstructive design and mobile design depicted on Hussein Chalayan' works. Hussein Chalayan, the Turkish-Cypriot who is based in London, says' Challenging is the best word for me'. And so word, 'radical' that has difficult connotations was chosen for this study It implies two menainigs for the word. The first thing is "extreme" - something that is drastic. And 'Applied to clothes', it can probably mean "experimental". He has iconoclastic ideas and his ramp shows are always high on concept, experimentation of art and utility. His approach to fashion derives from philosophical and intellectual theories of deconstruction and mobility, which he expresses through his designs. Deconstructionism, in fashion, rejects customary rules and breaks all conventions. It questions aesthetic norms about bodily proportions and the criteria of beauty, emphasizes the adding on, or discovery of, an irrational moment, and reveals the processes of tailoring in clothing. The shape and the construction of the garment is more important than the color. Cuts. tears, asymmetries, matching different materials are among the most evident features of the deconstructive design. And Chalayan performed the mobile design of transforming furniture into clothes. Chair covers became dresses. a coffee table became a skirt which were designed by Chalayan, with geometric and architectural references. Chalayan says he was inspired by the idea of refugees fleeing. Besides Chalayan uses clothing as an art to reinterpret and reform the human body in a continuous tour de force of body/identity conceptualism and dressmaking. He reflect the body's function in the cultural context of architecture, science, or nature - and then attempt to translate his findings into clothing.dings into clothing.

• 복식
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.109-123
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• 2011

Postmodernism has affected general culture and arts as a powerful cultural image that has governed the later 20th century, and it is still a main subject as Zeitgeist representing modern society. Accordingly, this study is to verify the role and importance of the stage costume according to change of the art trend in the present age by clarifying relations between the postmodernism and the stage costume, and analyzing the postmodernism trend shown in postmodern classes. The postmodernism trend in costume is summarized as the deconstructionism, eclecticism and the populism. Hereunder is the conclusion of applying Postmodernism characteristics and creation mechanism commonly existing in theater and costume to the costumes of Korean theaters since 1990's. First, a deconsructionism trend of the Korean theater was visualized by the expression method of disembodiment and decomposition of stage costumes. Second, expression phase of interculturalism was concretely visualized through the stage costume, and it was considered that the postmodernism creation method. Third, a populism trend since 1990's was reflected to the stage costume, and deduced consensus with the audience and subculture familiar with the public as well as appeared as a phenomenon that emphasized a recreational elements. It is analyzed that this trend is a result that a concept of sportiveness was directly transferred through strong visual expression function of the stage costume. As a result of analyzing a Korean theater of the postmodernism disposition since 1990s, the costume reflected creational will of the postmodernism of works and played an important role as visual arts, created with a similar method and form.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.56-64
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• 2012

This paper has tried to analyze the characteristics of space in Korean traditional architecture by deconstructive concept through connecting Lao-tzu's theory, the main discourse of East and West, with Derrida's deconstructionism theory. Derrida's philosophical term of differance(diff$\acute{e}$rance) is similar to Tao of Lao-tzu. It is because Derrida emphasized the relationships with others by trying the strategy of overcoming dichotomous thinking by this term. Tao of Lao-tzu also has the relative characteristics that cannot be concluded by one sole meaning. Like this, Derrida and Lao-tzu are against traditional and dichotomous way of thinking. In this point of view, this study has set Derrida's deconstruction theory and Lao-tzu's thinking as the common viewpoint of this world. And through the phrase of Tao Te Ching which means deconstructive Tao, deconstructive space design vocabulary was derived as mixed no-boundary, shape of no-shape, transcendence of time and space. The deconstructive characteristics of traditional space by case study analysis of Lao-tzu's deconstructive space design are as follows: First, it is not a specific or detailed shape but an unlimited possibility that can be transformed into something else, moving and changing endlessly and has a borderless beauty. Second, it is nothing itself but creates various shapes, as if it exists without shape. Third, it is a relative and unlimited space and pursuits a free form as a non-conceptional shape without any system or value.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.100-116
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• 2008

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

Based on the trend of pluralization and globalization the collapse of national borders now is a manifestation of mixed and compromised cultures and societies. It is also emerging as a hybrid fashion in fashion. Hybrid fashion means creating a new image by mixing various cultures beyond the time and space. This study aims to analyze the current state of Chinese fashion design and present its direction by grasping the characteristics of hybrids in the works of rising Chinese fashion designers in the era of pluralization. The research method was literature review and empirical research. According to the selection criteria of new fashion designers, 6 new fashion designers of 5 fashion brands were selected and their total 458 points works were analyzed. The analysis results are as follows. First, most of the time trade-offs were 'past and present' trade-offs that express Chinese traditional culture and the image of the past with modern design. The trade-offs between 'present and future' is expressed by mixing print patterns, colors and light with fractal art. Second, spatial trade-offs was expressed in the way of expressing Chinese themes in the composition of western clothing, expressing the Western themes in oriental colors, and inspired by Japanese culture expressed by deconstructionism, Third, the gender mix mainly used dark embroidery on women's clothing, while the men's wear showed a delicate feminine charm with a surreal pattern on thin and transparent gauze fabric.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.720-737
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• 2023

This study aims to merge Picasso's expressive elements and deconstructive fashion's formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philoso-phical aspects. The analysis of Picasso's Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida's deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida's values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso's works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.293-312
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• 1997

Deconstructionism is a philosophical stream in the latter half of 20'th century which goes against western metaphysics and tries to deconstruct the dualism e.g. eastern/west-ern man/woman. Its main concepts are 'indi-vidual' 'other' 'difference' 'restoration of the repressed' 'decentralization' 'Today it shows strong influences in literature art, and other social fields. This study investigated inner meanings and exterior forms represented in clothing on the base of Jacques Derrida's theory in order to re-search modes of deconstruction in is. And it compared clothing with architecture among other genres of art in order to discover similarities between through and modes of art in a certain period. For illuminating concept of deconstruction I referred to the literatures of preceding studies and for deconstruction's characteristics in both clothing and architec-ture I referred work's collection book $\ulcorner$collec-tions$\lrcorner$ and other related books dealing from 1960's to this point. As a rsult there are four modes of decons-truction in both clothing and architecture as follows; 1) Differenance which is a concept of the dif-ference in time and space as being trace. 2) In termeaning of meanings which is not present in reality but re-interpreted a new in the future. 3) Interxtuality in which a texte is not alone but with others 4) Dis.De phenomenon in which distortion and fragmentation forms occur as the result of the denial of perfection and reson. There are characteristics of modes of de-construction in clothing as follows; 1) Differance; R.Gigli, P. Rabanne. G.Bersace, V.Westwood are representatives of the cloth-ing which is combined with the past the pres-ent and the future or is re-viewed as the clothing of the past in the present point of view. J. Watanabe R. Dawakubo I miyake are representatives of the clothing which is out-date but re-viewed in the sense of recollec-tion and re-usage. 2) Intermeaning of meanings: R. kawakubo I, Miyake Y,Yamamoto are representatives of the clothing which is incomplete but re-interpreted in the future and appears to be new-fashioned according to ways of bnding wearing throwing on and tying J.C. Castel-bajac K.Hamnett S.Sprouse are representa-tives of the clothing which is made up of ab -stract forms scribbling or symbolic letters which appears to be different according to view-point of observers. 3) Intertextuality ;J.P.Gaultier K.Hamnett, Comme des Gar ons are representatives of intertextuality of gender which avoids the 여-ality of man/woman J.P Gaultier G,Versace J. galliano are representatives of the intertex-tuality of time place and occasion which mixes temporality extensity and purposiveness. J.P Gaultier G,Versace are representatives of the intertextuality of coordination which combines items different in image purpose and use. P.Rabanne A,Courr ges R,Gernreic I,Miyake are representatives of the intertextuality of mat-ter which uses heterogeneous matter different from cloth. 4) Dis.De-phenomenon: R, Kawakubo I.Mi-yake J.P.Gaultier are representatives of the de-composition which discloses distortion and exag-geration of form through destructing the estab-lished way of construction J.Galliano R.Kawa-kubo Devota Y Lomba arte representatives of the decentring which restores the repressed and the alienated on the one hane and shows front-centrality on the other. Comme des Gar ones is representative of the discontinuity because of which right and left up and down are not in har-mony with one another. J,Galliano J.P,Gaultier T,Mugler are representatives of the disruption by way of which one makes one's body exposed through intentional slashes or holes. As a consequence deconstructionism enabled us to investigate similarities between through of deconstruction and modes of art interms of diffrance Intermeaning of meanings intertextuality and Dis De-phenomenon. And we found that deconstruction was a phase of development in that it as a all-comprising and multiple concept tries to pursue the new through deconstruction.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제1권
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• pp.189-226
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• 1999

The purpose of this paper is to examine the common characteristics of late 20th century interior design style and the post-modern thinking system. A period has its own predominant spirit which determine the tendency of art, and the ubiquitous power in the spirit decides the period's pattern of art. Therefore the interior design style belongs to general art sphere that has its own individual character derived from the dominant power of the controlling system. Paying special attention to this understanding, the auther has processed this paper by combining the post-modem thinking with special characteristics of each of the 20th century interior design style. Until now, researches have been focused on the individual style of post-modern design; however, a general research comprising the whole characteristics of expression has not been made. Accordingly, the rationale of emphasizing the general point of view is establshed. Also, this study suggests a model applicable to studies concerning other art area. This type of methodology is receving more attention as an approach investigating new art ideology for researching post-modern thinking and late 20th century art styles. The conclusions are as follows: First, the distinctive expressions of postmodernism appear to be characteristic of illusion, metaphor, pluralism, decoration, and symmetry, Those of late modernism appear to be the characteristic of complicated simplicity and symplified complexity, passiveness of symbolism and harmony, indeterminacy of form and space, and unintentional decorativeness. And the characteristics of deconstructionism are spatial difference and temporal defferal, and un-reductive and non formal abstractiveness of the space, unfinishness, chance, and secretiveness of individual style. Second, the disinctive expression seems to share common characteristics with postmodern thinking. The best examples are pluralism, non-formalism, populism, and historicism, originating from the deconstruction of 'meta-narrative'. Third, based on the second conclusion, general distinctive expression could be simplified as chacteristics of plurality, hybridity, and indeterminacy. These expressive chacteristics appear to be automatically connected with general postmodern thinking. Last, in consideration of the above conclusion, the extreme generality could be distinctively clarified as 'textural co-exsistence'. Accordingly, the author might confirm that 'textural co-existence' originated from the text that comes from postmodern thinking. In conclusion, design expression of late 20th century interior design accepts the ?universal theme of ubiquitous postmodern thinking. And universal expressions and supreme generality can be common analysis tools for understanding and studying complicated late 20th century interior design.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제11권7호
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• pp.168-178
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• 2011

현대 그래픽디자인은 포스트모더니즘이라는 거대한 소용돌이치는 파도 속에서 모더니즘 이후에 이루어진 단순한 미학을 뛰어넘어 급진적으로 탈바꿈 되고 발전해 왔다. 그리고 타이포그래피는 모더니즘의 산물인 그리드의 규범에서 국제 타이포그래피 양식으로 발전하면서 현재로 오게 되었다. 이러한 양식의 대표적 인물 중 한 사람인 에드워드 펠라Edward Fella를 꼽을 수 있으며, 펠라는 현재 캘리포니아 예술학교CalArts에서 열정적으로 그래픽디자인과 타이포그래피 강의를 진행하고 있다. 펠라는 오랜 시간을 해체주의적 표현의 결과물 창출과 미학이 바탕이 된 디자인 아이덴티티 정립 연구에 매진했다. 이에 프랑스 근대 철학과 미학을 바탕으로 전 세계의 그래픽디자인계와 타이포그래피 교육의 획을 긋고 있는 펠라의 그래피즘을 살펴보며 현대그래픽디자인에 끼친 미적 범주를 연구 하였다. 펠라의 작업은 무의식과 잠재의식 속에 존재하는 그래픽 모티브를 활용하여 여과 없이 걸러진 작업들을 펼치게 된다. 이에 따른 그의 그래픽 형식을 해체주의적 미학으로 여기며 연구하게 된다. 현시대가 포스트모더니즘의 끝자락에서 표류하며 불확실한 시대로 흘러 하는 탈형식의 시대로 규정하지만 이러한 시대에 그의 타이포그래피를 통하여 현재와 미래의 세계 그래픽디자인의 흐름을 고찰하며 표현양상을 포괄적으로 파악하는 계기가 될 수 있음을 시사하고 있다고 하겠다.