• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.266-275
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• 2009

Variations of individual hip shapes are a major obstacle in pattern making for fitness. The drafting method is used for pattern making in today's apparel industry. Whilst catering to a limited number of information such as waist and hip sizes, this method does not cater to variations in hip shape. This paper describes the analysis of hip shapes using 3D body model and tries to make sure the relationship between hip shape and pattern by calculating hip angle and dart amount. We achieved results in analyzing various hip shapes by extracting hip angle. Moreover, various hip shapes can be divided into three types(A, B and C) by the hip angle value($K_{sh}-K_{wsh}$). When we use computerized draping method to make a personalized pattern for a tigth skirt, we easily create complex dart lines automatically. Therefore we achieve the result of individual dart amount such as distance between dart lines and dart areas. C type of hip shape had short dart length, long distance between dart lines and a large amount of dart area. On the other hand, A type had long dart length, short distance between dart lines and small amount of dart area. B type had long length and long distance between dart lines and large amount of dart area. In traditional pattern making, distance between dart lines is usually proportional to amount of dart area because of similarity in dart line shape. In our pattern, there is no proportional relationship between dart line distance and dart area. This means that variations in hip shapes result in a wide variety of dart line curvature resulting in a wide range of dart area. By ensuring an accurate relationship between hip shape and pattern, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.249-264
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to investigate automatic manipulating functions of dart of CAD system, and to classify the dart of women's front bodice. The results from this study: 1.3 CAD systems, were compared in automatic manipulating functions of dart. Gerber system & Investronica system were based on the pivot-method of dart manipulating, Yuka system was based on the slash-method. 2. It is classified and made a dart-design chart with using darts, which were as examples related to dart manipulating in text & reference of the pattern design. 3. In case of education of dart manipulation, the classified dart-design chart provides variations of a basic pattern through dart manipulation.

• 복식
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• 제62권5호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to find the Dart Manipulation with good fitting and evaluate the aesthetics of Dart Manipulation that is used in the designs of the original tops for women in their 30's. Subsequently, it suggests dart manipulation with good body fitting and physical fitness when designing original tops. The findings of this study are as follows. First, in the fitting of Dart Manipulation for different body types, cross direction Dart Manipulation received good marks in the Square Body Type while mixed direction and diagonal direction Dart Manipulation received high evaluation in the Standard Body Type. Also, for the Reverse Triangle Body Type, mixed direction Dart Manipulation received high marks. Since there are only small changes in fitting for the Square Body Type, the position of Dart Manipulation should be determined in regards to the aesthetic view as well as the fitting of the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type. Second, in the fitness of Dart Manipulation for different body types, an approach from the aesthetic view should be considered for Square Body Types because of the differences in fitness according to the position of dart manipulation. The fitness should be considered when positioning Dart Manipulation for the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type because of these differences. Third, for the greater variance of drop for these different body types, the change of the amount of dart received lower evaluation in fitting since the amount of dart increased when the dart was located higher than B.P. The number of dart should likely increase when gathering or tucking is necessary when there is an excessive amount of dart in Dart Manipulation for the different body types. Fourth, as for the changes of wrinkles in accordance with the body type, wrinkles were likely to be formed at the breast or neck area when there was a larger difference in drop. To prevent such problems, one more dart should be made on the wrinkle. In conclusion, the study suggests designing the original top with a better look and comfort by setting the balance between aesthetics and fitting in the design stage.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권3호
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• pp.91-102
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• 2006

The following research compares the two apparel systems that are used in Korean colleges, Gerber and PAD, by analyzing the advantages and disadvantages of their Dart-related functions in the pattern construction process. The results are as follows. 1. Regarding transformation methods, the Gerber system was able to use pivot method, while the PAD system was able to use both pivot method and slash methods. in other issues, the PAD system was not able to synthesize more than two Darts, and only showed differences for other functions. On the other hand, the diamond-shape Dart and diagonal Dart could be produced only in the PAD system, while curvy shaped Dart could not be produced in either system. 2. The change in side lines due to the change of Dart width only occurred in the PAD system, while the change in Dart length only occurred in the Gerber system; both systems need improvement. 3. As for the pattern outer line connection capability, which is a Dart automatic transformation function, both systems showed unnatural shapes which need to be corrected. 4. We first constructed a Dart shape composition chart according to the number of Darts. Based on this, we examined whether they have appropriate shapes. Among single-Darts, the Gerber system had an inappropriate, outer-line shape for Underarm Dart and Center Front Dart, and among two-Darts, it was inappropriate for Side and Waist Dart.

• 한국운동역학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.327-333
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of different types of attentional focus(internal focus vs. external focus) on the dart throwing mechanics. Seven expert dart throwing athletes were assigned to an internal focus group and other seven athletes were assigned to an external focus group. Each group was asked to throw dart either under verbal instruction or without instruction. During dart throwing, accuracy(radial error), consistency(bivariate variable error), dart velocity, acceleration, elbow joint ROM, elbow joint angular velocity, EMD(electromechanical delay), iEMG of biceps brachii and triceps brachii, and CI(coactivation index) were collected and analyzed. Nither instruction type nor instruction itself affected in accuracy and consistency. However, in dart velocity and acceleration, there was an interaction between instruction and attentional focus types. Velocity and acceleration increased in the internal condition, where as they decreased in the external condition. The ROM of elbow joint did not affected by instruction and attention type. However, similar to dart velocity and acceleration, angular velocity increased in internal focus group, while it decreased in external focus group. EMG showed no difference with any condition. In conclusion, internal focus is better than external focus for dart throwing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.1193-1202
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• 1996

This study investigates and analyzes the amount and shape of the front waist dart of the bodice and investigates the dart division method by bust size. Measurements at 5 arm positions were taken from 15 subjects. Clothing tests were given to 6 of the subjects. The conclusions were as follows: 1) Front Body surface changes were occurred around armpit and they were caused by the wrinkles of the armpit 2) The curved dart line was more appropriate for use with C cup, the large bust body, than the linear line. The changes of the dart amount at arm movements had different types by bust size. 3) Patterns for A & C cup body were adequate to divide the dart amount by 3 darts such as under the B.P., under the anterior armpit and side line, or to aggregate to 1 dart under the B.P. For the B cup body, however, the suitable pattern to use was the total dart amount divided by 1~2 darts and decreasing the waist line at the side line should be avoided.

• 한국패류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2004

An anatomical and ultrastructural study on the dart sac and the dart of a Korean snail Nesiohelix samarangae was conducted to understand their morphological characteristics with the help of the light microscope and electron microscopes, TEM and SEM. Nesiolelix samarangae had two darts which are pure white structures 6-8 mm in length, tapering from 0.6-0.8 mm to 0.15-0.3 mm. The dart sac had a long conic lumen subdivided into two by a septal wall, and the darts were centrally embedded in the thick muscular layers of the sac. The darts occupied each of the two luminal spaces one per each. The convexed surfaces of the darts had many crystal buds in the shape of the petals. Otherwise, the convexed surfaces of the darts had numerous crystal buds in the shape of candle or topaz. The luminal surface of the dart sac was covered with a single columnar epithelium. The epithelial cells possessed microvilli on their free surface.

• 천문학회보
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• 제46권2호
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• pp.35.4-35.4
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• 2021

The Double Asteroid Redirection Test (DART) is NASA's first planetary defense test mission, designed to test the kinetic deflector technique by crashing into an asteroid and changing its orbit. DART's launch window opens in November, 2021, with arrival at its target less than a year later in late September or early October 2022. The target of the DART spacecraft is the moonlet Dimorphos, a 150-m moonlet orbiting the 780-m asteroid Dimorphos. By changing the orbit of Dimorphos around Didymos, the results can be detected much more easily than changing the orbit of an asteroid around the Sun. I will discuss what we know about Didymos and Dimorphos, the plans for the DART mission, the expected results, and how DART is important for planetary defense in general.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.182-199
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• 2015

This research aims to design a new style jacket by developing patterns with dart manipulation, to achieve a tailored jacket which has been familiar to us, but with a more creative design. Tailored jackets has been widely worn both by women and men, and used to create various fashion styles. Generally the classic design with a basic lapel and collar is worn the most, and this shows demonstrates an importance of its design. Giacomo Manzu's work of relief art inspired for a creative design of tailored jackets. As a result of the analysis on the visual properties of the relief sculptures, it was found that an omissions of line for cubic effect and dramatized expression give an illusion effect. Based on the illusion effect shown in the case of a relief design, it was patterned and designed with dart manipulation. Through dart manipulation, the shape of a lapel was designed to meet the rear collar, which corresponds to a background plane, by making it like a sculpture at the front background pattern. Then it was found through dart manipulation could be extensively applied for various designs, as well as used to generate massing. Hopefully this creative pattern and design development would be helpful not only in diversification of consumer's needs, but also in the educational field for pattern and development of the fashion design industry.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.407-412
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• 2005

This study is to establish the pattern for one piece dress which fits well to the women somatotype with different drop value and is functional and has high body fitness. Selected 2 testers from classified 4 types who were close to the average value and took twice dressing test. After successive correction and revision, patterns of one piece dress for each somatotype were established. M type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm(dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+0.8 cm for front and H/4+0.8 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.5 cm. A type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1.5 cm for front and H/4+1 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.2 cm. X type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2 cm for back. Waist line is W/4+2+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+1+2+1.4 cm(for two darts amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1 cm for front and H/4+1.3cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. H type; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2cm for back. Waist line is W/4+1.7+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+2 cm for front and H/4+1.5 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. In order to achieve the objective evaluation on a new pattern in this study, the sensory evaluation for both Imwonja pattern and a new pattern in this study was completed. As a result of sensory evaluation, a new pattern of this study could accomplished a good appearance in reflecting characteristics of each types and could achieved the functional superiority than comparison pattern.