• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.277-296
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• 1994

The progressive artists in Austria including Gustav Klimt organized the Viennes Se-cessionist in 1897 and they took an active part in the reformation of the reformation of the applied art by accepting the Jugendstil standing for the true art. The vocabularies which characterize this group are decoration literature and the power of symbol. Klimt especially expressed these characteristics and his strong person-ality. For he created his works with the sym-bolic and friendly splendor through his highly decorative talents by accepting the enwly changed artistic situation in those days and by getting out of the naturalistic trends he was regarded as an avant-garde artist as a major figure among the Symbolist artists who revived European culture which was destroyed through the World War I. The characteristics of klimt's works was to express the various human thoughts and minds through the decorativeness and the femininity and to use the decorative elements of old Greek and Egyptian culture and Japanese art as the motives of his works, His art is to be found between the naturalistic characteristics and formalization as well as between the in-dustrial arts and the fine arts. In his many portraits he preferred women by trying to express eroticism hidden behind the human inner world. For this he demonstrated the attractiveness and the characteristics of the models by designing the illusionary and unique clothes. In general his genius was to be seen through the costume which was decorated with metals and jewels and through the characteristics of the modern costume in which the previous solid silhouette was removed and the gentle and elegant me-dium color was used. by accepting the new artistic trends in the turn of the century by fully expressing those characteristics in his creative world and by taking his theme from the eroticism through the decorativeness and the expression of women Gustav Klimt's uniquely decorative ex-pression completely realized the aesthetics of Jugendstil symbol decoration and expression which displayed not only the external appear-ance but also the inner world. Especially he created a new appearance emphasizing the costume of the characters in his works. Also through the costume he expressed his artistic consciousness and psy-chology. He showed the characteristics of the reformed costume through the medium color the simple forms and gentle silhouette. Also he tried to symbolize the passionate inner pow-er by designing the small mosaics such as the geometrical patterns whirlpool patterns and the indecent meanings all over the costume. Klmt's this kinds of attemps shows a Stil Kostume as the external outcome of the inner spiritual activities like art and it establishes a basis for the theory of costume are which deals with the concepts of costume from the artistics points of view. This tradition playing an important role in the contemporary history of costume even has been still inherited up to today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.163-182
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.139-161
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• 2002

This study investigates the characteristics of Nordic sweaters works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) development of Nordic sweaters, 2) the characteristics of Nordic sweaters industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns, 4) the symbolic meaning of the designs in the Nordic sweaters and patterns. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. It was also developed in Scandinavian regions which lead the fashion in modern days. Scandinavian knitting techniques have been diffused into the east coast of England and Northern Europe by Vikings. 2. Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. 1) Norway ; Simple and geometric Norwegian patterns are classified into three groups of motifs: (a) the motifs of cross, diamond, X, and swastika (equation omitted). (b) the motifs of human figures, animals and birds, (c) floral motifs (especially eight-petal roses). Their use of color is also simple, and is limited to more than two colors. (2) Sweden ; Swedish patterns are colorful and geometric. They are characterized by features such as brocade, complex embroidery, and contrast of red and black colors. They also show Guernsey patterns. Initials and production years were knitted in sweaters which have different patterns in their trunks and sleeves. 3) Denmark ; The Danish pattern is the purl stitch knitted against the stockinette stitch. The technique is used to copy woven damask motifs. The patterns are seen most clearly when they are knit with smooth yarn. The Faeroe sweaters are the representative work of Danish knitting. Faeroe knitting, incorporates stranded pattern and is knit in the round, either with circular needles. 4) Finland ; Finnish patterns are similar to Norwegian patterns. Finnish knitted work show very colorful, variety and free-flowing geometric patterns. 5) Iceland ; Icelandic knitting shows original ribbon pattern. Lope sweater is the representative work. 3. The traditional knitting patterns not only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns. In short, the knitted work in the Nordic sweaters served the function of admiring the beauty of nature and symbolizing various meanings. The unique designs and colors of the knitted work reflected the characteristics of the culture those works belonged to. This study also turns our attention to the issue of how the traditional colors and designs of the knitted work can contribute to the development of modern designs, and by doing so, if makes us realize the importance of knitted works in modern society.

• Archives of design research
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.103-116
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• 2003

As the globalization become the main stream in our world, there is no exception also on the cultural section. And we are En the midst of this rapid transition. In the case of advertising market, we opened to those agencies in abroad in the early year of 1990 and now completely opened. On this thesis, the multinational corporation advertising was studied and researched by empirical case study. The main topic is the value expression in the advertising creativity viewed on the cultural level. The multinational corporations that have an eminent, powerful brands produces much of goods wend widely with their powerful brands and extend their marketing activities to abroad. For example, those non-alcoholic beverages, pharmaceutical products, cosmetics, electronic appliances, vehicles, sports shoes, clothes are their main exports, and they broaden the product category, market size to the global market. They also use an expert marketing skill accumulated for a long time. The advertising activities is one of the useful method to extend their global market abroad enhacing continuously brand value. And much of the multinational corporation's advertising are suspected of negative effects that advertisements works on a tool which curies so called uniformed ideology - various ruling ideology - with commercial messages. These advertising affect an developing country's moral value, life style, social value, and others. And they weaken those developing country's unique tradition, culture by putting their own ideology. Those who have a critical position on the advertising activities have been careful in judging it's effects. The result of this study which of the value system is expressed in the multinational corporation's advertisements are; First, the self - esteem value is classified by western value, and it was founded out much more in the domestic corporation's advertisements then multinational ones. Second, the security value system is classified by western value system, and it's outcome was much the same as former one. Consequently, the multinational corporation's advertisements have less of an western value expression relative to korean advertisements. Those outcomes may infer that the multinational corporations prefer to an compromise creative strategy in korea for avoiding cultural conflicts.

• The Korean Journal of Archival Studies
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• no.64
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• pp.27-62
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• 2020

The article has the characteristics of a preliminary writing about how to look at the trend of new archives 'fever' and 'impulsion' emerging around the domestic and foreign art world, which have not been paid much attention yet in the 'mainstream' archive research, and how to accept it independently. Specifically, this study aims to examine how archival art is involved in history and memory with aesthetic attitudes and methods through observation of recent tendency of domestic archive art, and what implications or influence the 'archival impulse' phenomenon in the art world can have on the research trend of 'archival studies.' First, I would like to look at the meaningful movement to reinterpret and actively accept archival impulses in concrete overseas cases, that is, the archive system of a public archive in the United States. This is followed by an attempt to explore the characteristics and characteristics of creative works that are carried out through the medium of archives, that has not yet reached the level of organization of specific archive methods but are sporadically attempted in the domestic art world. It examines how so-called 'archive artists' record unrecorded in a way that is not observed in the existing archival world, and how they summon and include excluded history in aesthetic language. In conclusion, this study explores the possibility of pulling the historical records of tradition out from archival boxes and reinterpreting them as living archives within the contemporary emotional structure from this new artistic trend called 'archival art'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.911-922
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• 2007

In this study, for the purpose of correct viewing on the image of Africa and understanding of modem fashion, African image and art, the general characteristics of African costume, the background of fashion subjecting African image, and the trend according to ages were examined based on theoretical background. Then the researcher drew African image by analyzing the works in four 2005 S/S major fashion collections to designers and design factors. The ten voted designers' and brands' works in 2005 S/S collections had four concepts of African image; 'Wild Erotic', 'Abstract Primitive', 'Natural Elegant' and 'Sporty Romantic'. The viewpoint of modem fashion on African image from the aspect of design, designer and fashion trend can be examined as below. First, African costume, which was religious and ceremonial, appeared to emphasize its esthetic side with decorative details in modem fashion design and designers competed to choose a method to harmonize tradition and modem style and by adopting these from occult to decorative meaning, Second, fashion designers presented city unpolished beauty of modem women to a special style and made african image to be recognized as a code of fashion culture by integrating it with modem people's mind to go back to the past and admiration for the purity of nature. Third, thanks to the instinctive vitality hidden in the primitive life, inspiration for creative design that is found in the esthetic mind of the Indians, foreign taste emphasizing ethnic trend, and admiration to naturalism due to the increase of concern over ecology, 'African image' led the beginning of 21C trend by being settled as a in fashion trend.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.33
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• pp.223-242
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• 2016

The Korean $taeg{\breve{u}}m$, a horizontal bamboo flute, is considered a representative wind instrument of Korean traditional music. Symbolized by its unique timbre and diverse techniques, this instrument transmits the beauty of Korea, and has become acknowledged even in international music scenes. Being a $taeg{\breve{u}}m$ player, composer, and ethnomusicology researcher, I have developed creative collaborations with musicians from Asian, electro-acoustic, jazz, and Western art music traditions developed outside my country of origin and tried to overcome musical boundaries through the 'intercultural performances' (after Turner 1988). Zooming in one collaboration, I detail the process of music creation and performance, collaborating with prominent Korean composer Kim $Taes{\breve{o}}ng$ (b.1967), who was commissioned by myself to write two compositions for the $taeg{\breve{u}}m$ and Western art music. The purpose is twofold: firstly, the modernization and appropriation of the Korean flute is briefly tracked down within the context of Western Art music. Secondly, a performance project is illustrated with the support of technical apparatuses such as DVD and CD recordings and delves further into the question of the 'cultural relativism' (Michael Tenzer, 2006: 7) through the interactive process. The performance-as-research, as a tool 'actualizing' (Richard Schechner 2003: 32) the hybridity, touches on critical domains in Ethnomusicology. The corresponding two parts discover, as Alan Merriam's(1964) 'tripartite model' suggests, the 'context' of Korean and Western cultures, the 'behaviour' of collaborating and performing and the 'sound' of improvised and composed productions in the course of music making.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.47
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• pp.1-26
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• 2017

This paper focuses on three novels that reflect absence of family. Conflicts caused by absence of parents or lack of function and role of parents were principle drivers fueling growth novels. In Chinese growth novels, children in a long-standing tradition of emulsion and political pressure were unable to express their conflict with parents. Out of the collective interest and only until the late 1980s, which can be found of the individuals were able to fully appreciate the growth of children. Since the late 1990s, the creative individual cases to the growth is an important point of Chinese growth. Due to a close relationship of the literature and politics further noteworthy that the growth of state for personal growth for China's growth. Reform and opening up the end of the Cultural Revolution, the emergence of new generation of cultural sensitivity with a relatively free personal attention to the growth of the chance that can be. In this paper, created since the 1990s, the growth of the stories of yuhua (余華)'s "Cry in the Rain"("在細雨中呼喊"), sutong(蘇童)'s "The Northern Part of the City"("城北地帶"), wanggang(王剛)'s "English"("英格力士"), going to go through by focusing on how to respond in the lack of family. "Cry in the Rain" shows that a consciousness orphan child abandoned main actors 'consciousness from his birth parents and adoptive parents. "The Northern Part of the City" chronicles different growth stories of children who experienced a void because of their absent families and found comfort in peer groups. "English" is distinguished from the mainstream narrative of Chinese growth in terms of creating a role model. Individual growth through the role model in that it will eventually establish their own identities and further growth. Because of that, this novel is considered best practices of Chinese growth novels. This kind of narrative, which returns to the memory of the growth of growth, has a richer connotation amid various attempts by writers out of the past era of obsession and fatigue.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.143-148
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• 2022

The subject of this paper is the practical examples of technoculture that critically thinks network technology, a strong material foundation in the era of data capitalism in the 21st century, and appropriates its socio-cultural metaphor as an artistic potential. In order to analyze its alternatives and the meaning of cultural politics, this paper examines the properties and influence of data capitalism after the 2008 global financial crisis, and the cultural and artistic context formed by its reaction. The first case considered in this paper, Furtherfield's workshop, provided a useful example of how citizens can participate in social change through learning and education in which art and technology are interrelated. The second case, Greek hackerspace HSGR, developed network technology as a tool to overcome the crisis by proposing a new progressive cultural commons due to Greece's financial crisis caused by the global financial crisis and a decrease in the state's creative support. The third case, Paolo Cirio's project, promoted a critical citizenship towards the state and community systems as dominant types of social governance. These technoculture cases can be evaluated as efforts to combine and rediscover progressive political ideology and its artistic realization tradition in the context of cultural politics, paying attention to the possibility of signifying practices of network technology that dominates the contemporary economic system.

• 지역과문화
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.23-48
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• 2020

Hahoebyeolsingut Talnori, which is under permanent performance, has lost its relevance to folklore and rituals of the villagers and has secured the possibility of change depending on the actor's choice. This article seeks to expand the current stuck performance of Hahoe mask play, which has great significance as a play and play for the audience. To this end, We studied the possibility of expanding the performance of Hahoe Talnori by trans-identity of the Choragi. Chorangi character derides yangban, seonbi and monk, who are representatives of the establishment. Those who have a consciousness of potential transformation, those who passively represent the masses, and those who are tacitly authorized by the audience to ridicule the ruling class. The audience feels exhilarated by the super-cool, but at the same time reduces the limits. We transformed Chorangi who is clever but cannot overcome the limits of his status, into a character with a sense of transformation by applying the method of turnning identity and changing identity of the theory of trans-identity. And I applied the method of expansion of the media conversion storytelling theory to create a new Chorangi Madang that conforms to the audience's needs and the spirit of the times. In addition to the performance of Yangban Seonbi Madang(Act of Nobleman and Scholar) which ends with an ambiguous reconciliation, we wanted to complete it in a way that even today's audiences could accept by applying the function of the Hahoebyeolsingut Talnori ambassador and the principle of implementation. And We writed it in a script. This article is meant to be an experimental study that attempted to transform traditional performing arts in the context of new creation of tradition. Preservation and transmission of traditional performing arts are important, but it is necessary to move forward according to the trend and spirit of the times.