• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.84-107
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• 2018

Cheommojik is a pile cloth, a type of textile whose surface is covered with short piles. The term chaedam was used during the late Joseon dynasty to refer to pile cloth rugs, while the terms yoongjeon, dantong and yangtanja were used in the early twentieth century. Various documents, newspaper articles and photographs confirm that pile cloth rugs were used by the general public as well as the royal family from the late Joseon dynasty onward, and that there were domestic manufacturers of such rugs at that time. This study investigated six pile cloth rugs that were produced after the late Joseon dynasty, five of which feature Persian knots made of cut pile, the other being made with the loop pile method. The cut pile rugs are rectangular in shape and measure between 72-98cm by 150-156cm; and they are decorated in the middle with patterns of butterfly, deer, and tiger or the ten longevity symbols, and along the edges with patterns composed of 卍 symbols. The ground warp of all six rugs are made from cotton yarn, while the ground weft is made of cotton yarn on three pieces, wool on one piece and cotton and viscose rayon. The ground weft yarn from four pieces are Z-twist yarn made with two or more S-twist cotton yarn. Four to six colors were used for the pile weft, all being natural colors except for red. Two or more S- or Z-twist yarn were twisted together in the opposite twist for the pile weft, with the thickness determining the number of threads used. Six or more weft threads were used to make the start and end points of the rug; and the ground warp ends were arranged by tying every four of them together. For the left and right edges, three or more threads were wrapped together into a round stick-like form, and the second and third inner ground warps from the edges were stitched on to the wrapped edge. For the loop pile, loops were made in the direction of the warp; the ground warp and the ground weft may have been made with cotton, the pile warp with wool yarn. An analysis of the components of three rugs was conducted to determine which types of animal hair were used for the pile weft. Despite some inconclusive results, it was revealed that goat hair and fat-tailed sheep hair were used, raising the possibility that various kinds of animal fur were used in the production of pile cloth rugs. The six rugs examined in this study are estimated to have been made between the late 1800s and the early 1900s. Although the manufacturer of the rugs cannot be confirmed, we concluded that the rugs were produced in Korea after referring to the documentation of the domestic production of pile cloth rugs during the aforementioned period and the form and placements of the patterns on the rugs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.7
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• pp.703-713
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• 2012

This study analyzed the physical properties and flame retardancy of Tencel FR/Cotton complex knit fabrics in order to satisfy two aspects of eco-friendliness and functionality. The flame retardant (FR) treatment of complex knit fabrics was applied by a pad-dry-cure method for additional functionality. Tensile strength, extension, bursting strength, LOI, and flame retardancy were measured by the KS (Korean Standard) K manual. The hand value knit fabrics were measured by KES-FB system. Subsequently, tensile strength and extension of wale and tensile strength of course increased in tandem with the Tencel FR yarn content. Tencel FR/Cotton complex knit fabrics were suitable for summer-weight and for baby clothes through the KES-FB system measurements. The bursting strength of Tencel FR/Cotton complex knit fabrics decreased as the contents of the Tencel FR increased; in addition, LOI increased as the contents of Tencel FR increased. This was due to the Tencel FR flame resistance function; however, the tensile strength decreased. The optimum fiber content of Tencel FR/cotton content was 1:1. The optimum conditions of flame retardant treatment were a treatment temperature $130^{\circ}C$ and the concentration of finishing agent and assistance binder (AR4260) was 35% and 1%, respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.209-215
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• 1978

This experiment was designed to analyze the factors, which are very common in practical sewing, affecting on sewing shrinkage by using orthogonal array ($L_{27}$) table. The results were analyzed by using the computer program, PDP 11/10. The results showed that sewing shrinkage was increased up to 3 times of laundrying but no further changes could be found. Sewing shrinkage was affected much by the number of stitching and yarn tension and the rate increased with proportion to the number of stitching in unit length and yarn tension. When cotton yarn was used in P/C fabrics, the shrinkage was much smaller, but this results did not agree with other articles reported. Sewing by using $\sharp$11 needle and 1000$\~$1500r.p.m. seemed to lower the shrinkage rate.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.460-464
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• 2009

The purpose of the study was to investigate the changes of drapability and mechanical properties with folded yarn conditions. The samples were knitted 100% cotton yarn with hand-knitting machine. Mechanical properties were measured by Instron and Kawabata tester. Drapability was measured by Drapemeter. The differences in each sample were observed in the experimental results. This study showed that folded conditions were important conditions for fabric handle and properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.35-42
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• 2011

For high quality DTP products, it is important to optimize the parameters of media, pre- and after-treatment, ink, printer, etc. This study investigated the effect of types of fabrics(media) as a DTP parameters. Especially, the effects of media properties such as yarn twist and knitted fabric structure, on printability and color difference were examined. Two types of cotton yarn twist(830 and 1630 twist/meter) and five knitted structures of media were prepared with a single circular knitting machine. The K/S values of hard-twist samples were higher than those of normal-twist samples in every media structures. It is more effective to use the knitted fabrics of a hard-twist yarn to obtain dark color in the printing above input level value 60 where the printability improvement was most pronounced in case of plain structure. Among the five media structures a plain structure was the highest and that of corduroy was the lowest in terms of K/S values. Also ${\Delta}E$ values and lightness of the hard-twist yarn samples were smaller than that of normal-twist yarn samples when ${\Delta}E$ values were tested by using a standard of a normal twist yarn sample with a plain structure, which was increased in the case of corduroy structure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.397-410
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• 2018

This study investigated the flame retardant, anti-static property and wear comfort of knitted fabrics made of two kinds of composite yarns comprised of modacryl, antistatic PET, cotton and excel(R) fibers. A Low Oxygen Index (LOI) above 28 was observed in the modacryl knitted fabric specimens. The flame retardant was superior at the excel(R) fiber (including modacryl knitted fabric) than the one including cotton fiber. Anti-static properties of the modacryl knitted fabrics imbedded by 3wt% of antistatic PET fibers were observed by rubbing with wool fabric attached to the measuring apparatus, which showed a better anti-static property than the excel(R) fiber (including modacryl knitted fabric). Wear comfort indicated that quick perspiration absorption and the fast dry property of excel(R) (including modacryl knitted fabric) was better than one that included cotton fiber. Warmth keepability and breathability of the knitted fabrics indicated good results in the excel(R) (including cotton and the modacryl knitted fabrics). However, the tactile hand property of cotton fiber (including modacryl knitted fabric) was better than excel(R) fiber due to high extensibility and compressibility, and low bending and shear rigidity of the cotton fiber (including modacryl knitted fabrics).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.641-647
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the physical properties and handle of knitwears made with silver yarns. The four different knitted fabrics were made and compared: cotton(C), cotton/silver(CS), polyester(P), and polyester/silver(PS). If fabrics knitted with silver combined yarns, their electrical shield properties, UV-cut properties, anti-static properties, and air permeability were improved. As an additional effect this also improves the antibacterial properties of fabrics. It was found that overall physical properties and functional properties were improved by using silver yarn with cotton. The silver knitted fabric was found to be improved its softness and fullness hand for apparel.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.14-22
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• 2016

The objective of this study is to develop eco-friendly, functional towel material utilizing cotton-Modal-chitosan blended(C-M-CH) yarn and natural dyeing with mugwort colorants. Dyeing properties of towels with mugwort colorants were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions including concentration of mugwort colorants, dyeing temperature, and dyeing time, and the effects of mordants on dye uptakes were investigated. The C-M-CH towel showed better dye uptake than 100% cotton towel with mugwort colorants. The shade of towels got darker and red-yellowish tint increased by mordanting. Comparing with 100% cotton towel, the colorfastness of dyed C-M-CH towel was satisfactory showing above 3 grade which is the lowest grade to washing fastness. The antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and deodorization performance of towels were excellent and improved by dyeing with mugwort colorants. From the results obtained, it is concluded that the cotton-Modal-chitosan blended towel dyed with mugwort colorants can be used practically for an eco-friendly and multi-functional towel materials with excellent absorbance and drying properties.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.