• Title/Summary/Keyword: Costume Institute

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A study on Abstract Expression Showed in Modern Art and Modern Costume (현대예술과 현대복식에 나타난 추상적 표현에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Eun-Young
    • The Journal of Natural Sciences
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    • v.4
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    • pp.221-231
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    • 1991
  • We have thought artistic charactics of modern form is abstract expression and purity and unity sight. Specially, modern sculpture form has strict geometrical form as showed in primitive art. In this circumstances, modern costume has stylized more artistic form in pure sight. Artistic characteristics showed in those collections are picturesque in material and sculpture in shillouette. Picturesque material pointed in decoretive function and simple shillouette pointed in sculpturesque body in modern costume.

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A Study on the Symbolic Meaning of Traditional Wedding Costume Inherent in the Afterlife Wedding Kut in the Honam Area - Focusing on the Process Performing A Traditional Wedding Ceremony- (호남지역 저승 혼사굿에 내재된 전통복식의 상징적 의미 - 혼례의식 연행과정을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Eun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.8
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    • pp.71-80
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    • 2012
  • The Kut is the core of the traditional folk religion. The afterlife wedding Kut actually performs a traditional wedding ceremony by personifying the deceased in the process of performing the composition of Kut geori that cannot be observed from other Kuts, which is an important means to convey the situation of Kut more clearly. A traditional wedding ceremony performed in the Kut enables the audience to understand the meaning behind the Kut. The costume worn in the traditional wedding ceremony of the afterlife wedding Kut makes the audience understand the existence of the deceased by the use of a scarecrow dialect and makes them feel a vivid sense of the scene emitting from the Kut, which performs a traditional wedding ceremony in the composition of Kut geori. The results of this study showed that a shaman who led the afterlife wedding Kut had a scarecrow that symbolized the bride and a bridegroom wear the traditional wedding costume in order to visualize the deceased and express the symbol of a wedding which could not be made in this world. It can be interpreted that the traditional costume derived from the afterlife wedding Kut plays a symbolic role, which converts the deceased into a living person through the formal aspect of ceremonial costume and the cultural aspect of wedding ceremony.

A Research on the Exchange of Costume Culture between Netherlands and Japan through 17-18 Century Dutch East India Company (17~18세기 동인도회사를 통한 네덜란드와 일본의 복식문화교류 연구)

  • Kim, Myung-Eun;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.4
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    • pp.109-123
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    • 2015
  • The object of this research is to take a bilateral look into cultural exchanges of the Netherlands and Japan through the East India Company and thereby improve the general understanding in regards to the exchanges of costume cultures between the East and the West. The study conducted qualitative analyses on features of contemporary costumes of the Netherlands and Japan from 1602 to 1799 by investigating the secondary sources, such as the histories of costumes, arts, and literature. The results are as follows; the traditional sleeves of the Japanese Kimono were basically cut out in a straight line. However due to the growing popularity of the kimono home gown in Europe, the producers of the kimono in India as well as several other European countries modified them into western-style sleeves. Regarding the costumes of the Netherlands, which were introduced to Japan, the study found that Japan imported Dutch fabrics, instead of specific clothing items. In Japan, costume controls and anti-conspicuous consumption regulations among social classes including a closed-door policy had negative effects on both developments and exchanges of costumes of the country. However, when it comes to the Jinbaori, a costume for ruling classes, Japan was open to using fabrics, patterns and designs of the West. In light of what have been discussed so far, the study confirmed that the costume exchanges between the two countries started long after their first business of the general cultural exchanges. Though it is clear that the advancements in the natural sciences that the Japanese made can be attributed to the West, Japan was one of the nations that impacted the costume cultures in Europe.

A Study on Textile Patterns-Composition for the Costume Craftworks in the Chosun Dynasty (조선시대 복식공예품의 텍스타일 패턴구성에 관한 연구)

  • Hyun, Seon-Hee;Shon, Young-Mi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.36 no.7
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    • pp.741-755
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    • 2012
  • This study mathematically and scientifically investigated the aesthetic consciousness of women inherent in the costume craftworks craftworks of the Chosun Dynasty through a systematical analysis of their textile pattern composition using visual language theory. The tangent value from the horizontal and vertical ratio of the costume craftworks craftworks indicated that they had an indigenous proportion system with a relatively regular form and pattern but without an exaggerated type. There was a module based on structures in the textile patterns of the costume craftworks craftworks and the patterns were constructed by the module with the syntagms of the ratio structure. Moreover, the analysis of the pattern designs indicated that the whole form of the costume craftworks craftworks was built through a repetitive structure of feature and one of pattern units; in addition, the craftworks had the extended composition and blank space of daring patterns, an important factor to make a whole design. Therefore, our study suggested that the costume craftworks craftworks of the Chosun Dynasty was characterized by the presentation of the aesthetic style with a Geumgang ratio (an indigenous proportion system used in Korea) and could be interpreted as an art style based on the beauty of space. Moreover, it is suggested that the spirit inherent in the costume craftworks of the Chosun Dynasty (which tried to understand the whole as one and equate the whole and parts) might agree with a holistic tendency as the foundation of Korea art.

Genealogy of the Rainbow Stripe in Ethnic Costumes in East Asia (동부아시아 민족복식 색동계보)

  • Cho, Woo-Hyun;Kim, Mi-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.4
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    • pp.113-125
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    • 2010
  • This study is purpose to trace a genealogy of Rainbow stripe in 30 ethnic costumes in East Asia. And with through comparative views between Korean and the other minority that is shown a bilateral relation of rainbow stripe in their costume, we make sure the unique character of rainbow stripe in Korean traditional costume. The stripe in the costumes was generally used on sleeves with 3~6 patches. There were 10 types of methods for making the stripe including sewing. Weaving and sewing with trimming was also frequently used either and the stripe by weaving with multicolored yarns were mostly found in the southern region of china. Black, blue and red were frequently used in the costume as a main color that was contrasted with rainbow stripe and especially, black was mostly used. Korean preferred bright colors as a main color. Contents of the genealogy of the multicolored stripe in ethnic costume in East Asia are followed. The 28 ethnic groups who used the stripe in their dress except Korean, the Mans, Mongo people and Tibetan were located in the southern region of East Asia. And the other ethnic groups distributed in the northwest and northeast region of East Asia. The distribution of the rainbow stripe in the costume could be grouped into two sections: the southern region people and Korean-the Mongol people-the Tus- the Zangs group. And the latter group was shown strong relation with the culture of Korean's rainbow stripe costume. 11 ethnic peoples including Korean, the Vis, the Miaos, the Tus, the Mongol people, the Chaoxians, the Zangs, the Lahus, the Jinuos, the Hanis, the Luobas and the Dulongs, were saliently used the stripe in their costume. The stripe in Japanese costume was judged that was not a kind of the rainbow stripe was shown the other ethnic groups, was a color arrangement by layered dress or geometrical pattern. From above, we could recap a particular characteristic of the rainbow stripe in Korean traditional costume. Many colors were used in the stripe and bodies than the other ethnic people and the color was bright. In many cases, a color of patch at the point of armhole was red and Black color was not used in the stripe. The width of patch was a relatively narrow and regular. It has shown that the rainbow stripe in Korean traditional costume was organized independently.

A Study on the Influence of 18th Century Costumes in Contemporary Fashion (메트로폴리탄 박물관의 18세기 복식전시가 현대 패션에 미친 영향 연구)

  • Yun, Un-Jae;Park, Hyung-Ai
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.44 no.1 s.215
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    • pp.25-35
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    • 2006
  • This study investigated the scheme for correctly making Korean fashion design known to the world. It attempted to increase the influence of the Eighteenth Century Costume in contemporary fashion. During the 18th century, France had an almost complete monopoly of fashion. Growing out the fairyland atmosphere of the French Court and often conceived of as ennui by personal vanity, this fashion was a product of an age which sought at any price to live life with supreme grace. Most of the special costume exhibitions in the Metropolitan Museum of Art are planned and directed by Polaire Weissman, Diana Vreeland, Richard Martin, Harold Koda. The Costume Institute has held exhibitions of the Eighteenth Century Costume several times such as "Museum Period Rooms Re-Occupied in Style," "the Eighteenth Century Women," "the Ceaseless Century," "Dangerous Liaisons," etc. Especially, the exhibition of "Dangerous Liaisons" is organized in ten parts such as the Portrait, the Levee, the Music Lesson, the Withdrawing Room, the Broken Vase, the Favorite, the Masked Beauty, the Card Game, the Late Supper, and the Shop. Using the eighteenth century as its touchstone, The Ceaseless Century proceeds differently, not seeking the short distance between a discrete present and the multiple past but rather showing the complicated navigation that comes of revivalism swing to and fro on the timeline of history and sensibility. The designers featured include Karl Lagerfeld, Gianni Versace, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Cristobal Balencicga, Christian Lacroix, Stella McCartney forChloe, Olivier Theyskens, Alexander McQueen, etc. Therefore, Korean designers should refrain from (Ed-confirm) the foreign collection without a clear purpose and should devote their effort to create with an active attitude.

A Study on the Type of Shaman's Costume in Honam District: Centering on the Field Survey of Years 2006~2010 (호남지역 무속복식의 유형에 관한 연구: 2006년~2010년 현장조사를 중심으로)

  • Kim, Eun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.49 no.4
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 2011
  • This study aims to examine the costumes, which a shaman wears for the ritual of exorcism in the Honam region. The findings are based on a field survey of the exorcism ritual, which is performed by hereditary shamans and forms part of an annual event in the Honam region. Two main features of the shamans' costumes were observed. Firstly, the types of shamanic costume worn for gut reflected the general traditional costume but with some variations. White-colored costumes are largely found in the Honam region. Secondly, the types of costumes, which shamans wear in the Honam region. are also varied. The different types of shamanic costumes, regardless of Ga-sa, can be classified into Jang-sam, Jeon-bok, or Duru-magi, variations in the patterns of costumes, differences in the types of conical hat, and modifications in the dress code.