• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.61-70
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• 2005

A representative British designer, Vivienne Westwood's work. world from radical punk style to aristocratic historical dress is explored in context in terms of Englishness. National identity opens up into the process of mobilization of collective sentiment in the national context, unlike nationalism, and Englishness signifies the idea or emotion of England in contrast with Britishness, the political constructor influenced by geographical aspects. There is no doubt that Vivienne Westwood is central to ideas about creativity and originality in English design on subculture. However, in evaluating a designer and her work we should consider the entire context surrounding her from a broader view, rather than arguing only her own ingenuity. In this article, through reconsidering her originality in the historical reference as well as the resistant punk style in aspect of fluid national identity, I show a case of a constituted Englishness, forged by Vivienne Westwood as a cultural creator of national identity. Vivienne Westwood's case hints the complexities of national culture, which constantly shifts, translating her understandings of history and culture into fashion in her contemporary insight and glamorous ways.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.15-32
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• 2012

From the beginning of the twentieth century, 'Modernism' impacted and transformed art and clothing. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel were two of the most central characters in Modernism working simultaneously in their disciplines. Picasso's innovations, particularly in abstract art and Chanel's fashion designs, that dramatically departed from the previous corseted and highly decorative styles, were so significant that they have left an influence on contemporary art and fashion. This study will compare their visual works and documented evidence of their motivations, within the context of their cultural backgrounds, to reveal meaning in the occurrences of overlaps. This approach has examined the historical, cultural background of the artist and designer's environment from different perspectives, adding to previous research in this area. Through this research, outcomes of the analysis have shown similarities and divergences in the wider genres of art and fashion and the practice of the artist and fashion designer. The reference list to this text, used in the survey, gives a comprehensive overview of pertinent publications disseminating Picasso and Chanel's visual works, oral perspectives and cultural impact.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.39-52
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• 2004

The purpose of this comparative study what is the way to express difference fashion design between Japanese fashion designers and Western fashion designers in the 1990s. The design data were 422 pictures of contemporary fashion designs which represented the Japanism style design from fashion collections and analyzed by literature study and classification categories. The results were as follows : 1) Early general Japanism expression was directly borrowed from traditional fashion design elements and has changed indirectly with fashion trend. 2) Japanese fashion designers have used color, fabric, and pattern than shape to express Japanese traditional images. 3) Western fashion designers have directly borrowed aesthetic elements of Kimono design, that is, layering. bending, neck-line, sleeve, and traditional Japanese men's wear to express Japanism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.691-708
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to find the methodology of design plan that could raise the brand power by looking around the driving force of the design innovation through the case study of Louis Vuitton which has been evaluated to be successful in brand revolution by designer Marc Jacobs. Research methods were theoretical studies looking for various analysis and valuations about Louis Vuitton's design innovation and analysis about articles in International Herald Tribune and New York Times. Driving force of Louis Vuitton's design innovation could be summarized as designer's creativity and full supports for designers, establishment of BI by strategic cooperation between design and marketing parts, active design plans by collaboration with modern artists, existence of Logo as a symbol of brand, business mind pursuing adventures and dreams, and directors' artistic sensitivity and supports for culture and art.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.219-245
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• 1996

Throughout her life time, Edith Head produced cinema costumes for over one thousand movies. She was the leading cinema costume designer in Hollywood. Since the Academy Awards added the area of costume design to be recognized [during 33 years of her work(1948∼1981)], she was nominated 35 times an awarded eight times. However, there were no significant studies done on her work or accomplishments although she was acknowledged as an ingenue and creative designer who elicited artistic effects by reflect character's images through their costumes. The purpose of the study was focused on revealing Edith Head's life and work as her creations had a great impact in he field of cinema costumes. It was also to emphasize the forceful affect of cinema costumes on fashion and to disclose the powerful influence of cinema costume designers. The method of the study includes reviews of literature, movies for which she created costumes, her own possessions, and fashion magazines as well as her works that were nominated and chosen for the Academy Awards. Edith head's emphasis in costume design was based on a blend of both simplicity and sophistication avoiding excessive exaggeration and transformation in her work. Her work was also realistic and contemporary. She developed a dramatic ambience through an innovative design while preserving the actor's individual character and uniqueness. Through this accept her her work was highly renowned as an art form as it was gaining popularity. She was also a dominant figure who influenced trends in the areas of fashion magazines, uniforms, and public clothing. In the review of her cinema costumes, it was revealed that the styles of cinema costumes can be as quickly adapted by the public as movies are viewed because the cinema costumes are highly projected through a visual channel. Subsequently, a follow up study on the affect of cinema costumes on fashion would be beneficial.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.63-74
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• 2005

The cinema costume designers carry out the creative works in a different way from the commercial fashion designers generating the new trends by season or year for a number of people. Costumes created by the cinema costume designers are for the people acting in the film screens such as heroes, heroines or extras. The cinema costume designers should not miss the overall flow of a cinema. Moreover, the prominent designers have to devise the costumes livening up every scene. Most cinemas with the prudent interests and attention on the costumes are favored by the public and gain the commercial success. In particular, the cinemas emphasize the visual effects such as setting, lighting and computer graphics and require the substantial budgets for preparing the costumes regardless of genres, while all other industrial fields will be the same. Such efforts are to deliver the meaning and aesthetics that the cinemas intend to show through the designs, colors and textures of costumes closed up in each scene. The costumes in cinemas are another linguistic system and have the symbolic form of compound and meaningful communication used by the directors. The costume design is required to produce the costumes that liven up the characteristics of heroes or heroines as well as to fit for the general artistic effects of films. Moreover, it has to express the characters in the films using the costumes suitable for the film genres. Cinema costumes are defined and refined, and the process can be angst-ridden. Each frame of film is a canvas and has its own proscenuium. Every garment worn in a theatrical production is a costume. Before an actor speaks, his wardrobe has already spoken for him. From the most obvious and flamboyant show clothing, to contemporary clothes using subtle design language, costume design plays an integral part in every film production. Costume design is a vital tool for storytelling. Costumes have always had enormous influence on world fashion. Costume designers are passionate storytellers, historians, social commentators, humorists, psychologists, trendsetters and magicians who can conjure glamour and codify icons. Costume designers are project managers who have to juggle ever-decreasing wardrobe budgets and battle the economic realities of film production. Costume designers are artists with pen and paper, form, fabric and the human figure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.82-96
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the basic approach of producing the luxury fashion brands containing of the Korean traditional traits on the basis of traditional transformation with the modern concept, taking the 'Vivienne Tam' 2000's collections. This study has focused on its transformation of the traditional one of China, and made this as the subject of investigation. It's design characteristic could be defined as "modern interpretations of China chic", and it would be divided into two groups. The ingenious mixture of Chinese tradition into the modern chic could be concluded like these. The external characteristics is categorized in the three ways (1) the aesthetic application of the Chinese traditional patterns(dragon, water waves, peony, Japanese apricot flower, bamboo, bats, Chinese characters etc.), (2)the modern application of Chinese traditional costume details(front opening of Chipao, mandarin collar and knot buttons) and (3)the modernization of Chinese traditional technique(knotting, embroidery, beading and paper cutting). To deal with the internal characteristics, (1)the aesthetic mixture of East and West, (2)the formative expressions of the traditional view on the universe and religion are remarkable. The Chinese embodiment and the view of the universe and religion was integrated into the patterns of dragon, water waves, clouds, fire, woods, and metals. In order to afford the creative designer capable of encompassing the East and West, the teaching about the Korean tradition along with the technical and practical aspect of fashion is most important, while encouraging the professional designer to make a sophisticated ones which are attributed to the Korean tradition, and thereby come to be attractive to the world customer. The study about the Korean costumes, traditional colors, the symbolic meaning of the traditional patterns, cuttings, compositions, extending to the various kinds of myths, songs, paintings and crafts are essential for the Korean designer brand to be the global luxury brands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.125-135
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• 1993

The purposes of this research are firstly to define the characteristics of movement on the costume, secondly to demonstrate that fine art, expecially in relation to kinetic art, has become a good motif in modern costume de-sign, and thirdly to examin the characteristics of movement as shown in modern costume de-sign. For this study, we selected and analyzed some costume designs among those introduced in fashion magazines, which are Collections, Fashion-Preview, Fashion Show, Collezioni, and L'Officiel that have been issued since 1988. As this research is carried out only through the analysis of pictures, it is not ac-companied by a study on material itself. The result of this study is that the ex-pression of movement on modern fashion can be shown in two ways, one is the inclusive and subordinate movement expressed on the cloth-ing according to the motion of body when they are worn, and the other is the movement caused by the very designs of clothing. And the latter can be also divided in two ways, the illusionistic movement and the actual move-ment. The expression of actual movement is made through the emphasis of direction, rhythm, and dimension of the costume. And the illusionistic movement is expressed by the de-sign to which the textile pattern or reflection of light is applied so that the movement is larger than the actual movement. A sense of direction expressed on the cos-tume by the actual movement creates a light rhythm and adds interest to the costume. This reflects a part of psychology of modern men who are not accustomed to the statics. In the rapidly changing society of information our modern men seek after movement even in the statics. It is also true in the clothing and they seem to get a psychological rest through the immediated visual change as shown in fashion design. The simple and cheerful rhythm expressed by the illusionistic movement on the costume is attempted in order to overcome the static tediousness caused by simple design. These elements of movement cause the en-largement of visible range and create another enlarged shape other than the real one, so that they come to remove the dullness and monot-ony in costume design and provoke interest in costume, as if kinetic art reveals the various aspects that transcend the closed area of fine art upon the motif of 'movement'. finally, as this paper deals with the ex-pression of movement as shown in the costume design which prevailed after 1988, it is desir-able hereafter to study more about the fashion since 1950 when kinetic art began in earnest, along with the comparative study on the ex-pression of movement in our Korean designer's and foreign designer's works.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.132-149
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• 2016

With the increased importance of design creativity in global fashion marketplaces, there have arisen numerous promotional strategies for new fashion designers in Korea, yet little research has been done on this subject. This study examines the new fashion design promotion policies in Korea and their effects from the designer's perspective. First, we analyzed the contents of twenty-one strategies from thirteen organizations regarding the types of support from the strategies. As a result, four distinct types are identified: new designer recognition; information and consulting support; brand incubating; and marketing support. Next, we performed in-depth one-on-one interviews with eleven designers who had been awarded from one or more of the fashion design incubation policies. The results reveal that the incubating policies' cash rewards and space support are found to be most effective. In terms of the revised fashion and brand consulting policy, "brand operation" had an influence. In addition, fashion the new brand advertisement and marketing policy had positively influenced the "brand development." However, throughout the interview, designers note that the quality of education and information provisions need some improvement. Furthermore, the designers indicate the lack of supervision and professionalism from the marketing departments. Based on this content, this study emphasizes the necessity of an effective fashion design promotion policy, and strategic and consistent support for the whole fashion promotion team. At the minimum, an integrated and united supervision by the organization is necessary and should be taken into consideration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.133-147
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• 2006

This paper deals with utilization of traditional Indian textile design found in 21st century fashion. It examines the decoration of the traditional Indian textile design which inspires and widely adopted in the modern fashion design, and the immanent meaning of the traditional pattern. This paper also analyzes the trend of its utilization in the modern fashion design. In order to examine variety of Indian textile design and its modernization, the Indian ethnic dresses found in 21st century western designer collections were compared with the Indian traditional textile design adopted by Indian fashion designers. The result of the study shows followings : Firstly, the typical traditional decoration in Indian textile design contains plangi, chintz, ikat, roghan and embroidery (mirror-work), and the traditional Indian patterns are roughly divided into natural pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern and geometric pattern. Secondly, comparison of 203 fashion items of world top 4 collections with 422 fashion items of Indian designer's collections shows that the paisley pattern obtains the majority in western design collections, while the geometric pattern in Indian designer collections. Thirdly, the comparison and analysis of the 21st century western fashion design shows that the traditional Indian textile design is mostly used in the seasonal trend color or is mixed & matched with other patterns. You can also find the feeling of the traditional Indian patterns in some western collections. In Indian designer collections, on the other hand, the traditional Indian patterns are widely used in the manner that they maintain the traditional feeling, while they are reconstructed in modern style.