• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.117-136
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to analyze changes in high-tech fashion along with the types and characteristics of high-tech fashion that have appeared recently providing diverse material for the fashion field. High-tech fashion requires such research to learn how much distance one has in one's life. It is also meaningful to predict what direction high-tech fashion research may be needed. For research methods, previous research and literary studies were considered and photographs in which high-tech techniques were used were collected using the keyword 'high-tech fashion'. High-tech fashion types can be organized into the four types of luminescent types, mutual interaction types, 3D printing fashion, and virtual fashion. The research results were as follows. First, luminescent fashion was an important expression method of high-tech fashion. Materials for luminescent fashion first started with LED electric wire connections and many methods have been attempted with the appearance of electrically conductive clothing material, such as luminescent lasers and beam projectors. Second, interactive high-tech fashion often appears as variable fashion. The work of Hussein Chalayan, which was combined with advanced technology, set up a base for variable type interactive high-tech fashion in the 2000s. As bioengineering technology has developed, fashion that interacts with the environment without an energy source has appeared and the interaction among fashion, people, and the environment can be seen. Third, diverse forms of expressiveness in virtual reality such as 3D CLO shows a great difference with past high-tech fashion. Simple and diverse attempts made through virtual fittings reduce the limitations of time and space, permit interaction, and add a sense of reality through speed and dynamic physical beauty. Fourth, 3D printed fashion expresses complex and detailed clothing material that is different from those before with the development of computer 3D modeling technology. Modeling that can imitate geometric and bio-engineered structures is possible and mysterious feelings are passed on to people through creative expressions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.46-60
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• 2016

Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.446-460
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• 2007

This study shows that digital technology is adapted practical method in fashion design process and virtual simulation and cyber fashion gallery based on virtual reality are researched. This study is proposed the 3D fashion design simulation in the virtual space used on 3D studio max, poser, photoshop program according to fashion design process. The main design concept is "temporary bridge" from rainbow. This study is supposed six fashion design in accordance with three sub-theme under main concept by changing color and texture used on 3D simulation. The results of this study are as follows: 1. This study produced Cyber Fashion Gallery in virtual space to the form of CD Rom title and web title by Macromedia Director 8.5, Macromedia Flash, Sound Forge. And it is enlarged the field of expression in aspect of Fashion Exhibition, beyond restriction of time and space. 2. Clothes modelling tools is able to easily adapt to various textiles and patterns in 3D dynamic virtual mannequin before making clothes. Digital technology is able to express image changed color and texture, especially new material, multi-finishing material and brilliant material and so on. So this study is able to develop tools for study of fashion coordination. 3. Cyber Fashion Gallery consists of gallery, story, painting, symbolism, example, image, quit. This study is enlarged the range of clothing expression by digital technology and open to possibility customized-manufacture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.68-91
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to create modern patterns based on considering the types and design elements of Joseon hwapo patterns containing Korean identity, and to develop costume designs by applying design elements of traditional Korean dress, Hanbok. These designs combine traditional costumes with modern sensibility using the attribute listing method, and present them using a 3D virtual clothing program. Through this, it is meaningful as it organizes data on Joseon hwapo patterns, which were rarely dealt with in the traditional Korean costume research, and it is also of research value as it is a work that utilizes Joseon hwapo patterns as a new source of fashion design development. As a research method, literature research was conducted based on the documents, 'Nabeshima-sarasa hidensho', 'Nabeshima-sarasa mihoncho', and 'Zoho kafu benran', which are related to Joseon hwapo remaining in Japan. Based on the literature research, research was performed by creating pattern design and costume design using the attribute listing method, and 3D virtual clothing. Traditional Korean costumes used in design development in this study were saekdong-jeogori, dolddi-jeogori, magoja, hongjangsam, durumagi, jungdan, gollyongpo, jeogui, breast band, mujigi-chima, chima, and baji. Further, accessories used in each costume, such as pyeseul, daedae, hapi, and jeonhaeng-utchima, and features of configurations, such as yongbo, chest ribbons, band hem, gusset, collar and dongjung, heorimalgi, neckline, and sapok line, were used for design development.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.301-314
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• 2017

This study focused on the movement adaptability of $19^{th}$ century classical opera stage costumes. Researchers focused on a basic $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study analyzed movement adaptability using ROM (range-of-motion) tests of the upper limb flexion and abduction postures. It developed two research garments to mimic basic $19^{th}$ century style jackets with or without gussets at the axilla. The ROM experiment identified the gusset size as 11cm in length. Experimental postures included upper limb flexion and abduction. The study measured subjective comfort at 8 postures. These postures included the flexion and abduction of the arms and torso. Subjects also evaluated the subjective comfort of the rotation posture of the torso. Researchers evaluated the similarities between research garments' silhouettes and the $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study used a 3D virtual fitting system to evaluate fit, and specialists further analyzed fit with photographs and 3D virtual graphics. The results are as follows. The silhouettes of both research garments were similar to the silhouettes of the $19^{th}$ century western women's jacket. The jacket with axilla gusset had a better fit than the basic style jacket. The basic style jacket without the axilla gusset showed limited movement adaptability at the shoulder joint and it caused discomfort at the axilla and elbow. The 3D virtual fit test was not a suitable method for analyzing silhouette similarity.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.118-129
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• 2010

Digital technology introduced into the clothing and fashion industry is evolving to digital virtual fashions and consumer-centered mass-customized production systems. Today the application of such 3D virtual try-on systems is being expanded gradually in the clothing industry. This study purposed to make virtual avatars and virtual garments using OptiTex and V-stitcher virtual software and compared the appearance of the virtual garments put on the virtual avatars. For this, we created virtual avatars and virtual garments using body measurements obtained from jive subjects of top jive body shapes, respectively, using $[TC]^2$ body scanner. According to the results of comparing the outcomes of the two different virtual software systems, virtual avatar II of V-Stitcher tended to have a more round and lifted hip and the waist line at a higher position. In addition, the body curves and shapes of a virtual avatar affect the appearance of virtual garments. This study applied the same body measurements to virtual avatars and the same pattern to virtual garments, but when different kinds of virtual software were used, the virtual avatars and virtual garments showed different appearance and fit. This result may mean that when customers buy apparel products using different kinds of virtual try-on systems, their evaluation of appearance can vary depending on the virtual try-on system. Therefore, research needs to be made actively for the development and use of linkage programs that can reflect actual body measurements between virtual software systems and 3D body scanning systems.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.66-87
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• 2022

This study explores the possibility of creating new experimental hanbok designs by accommodating the latest world fashion trends and the changing needs of consumers, in order to attempt to overcome the limitations of traditional Korean fashion design. To do so, We analyze works by contemporary Korean fashion designers to investigate current developments in Korean fashion design and to identify areas of improvement within hanbok design. The results show that most contemporary hanbok designs repeat stereotypes of traditional hanbok with minor modifications. So there arises a need to create new hanbok designs that are clearly distinct from traditional hanbok but also maintain its core features. To develop such designs, I apply the techniques of deconstruction fashion, which allow making experiments with form, composition, and materials use to realize new aesthetics. The use of CLO 3D fashion design software also proves to be very efficient for developing experimental designs. The study results make meaningful contributions to the development of virtual clothing and 3D fashion for hanbok, particularly as metaBUS, a cloud-based research synthesis platform, is rapidly gaining ground, and reality and virtual reality are increasingly mixed in everyday life. This attempt at 3D design of hanbok is expected to trigger more creative experimentation in hanbok design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.45-58
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• 2007

This study shows that clothes are made just the same as the real thing in the virtual space through 3D digital technology. This study is significant to expand the area of fashion design in the virtual space. This study analyzes the practical use of the third dimension computer graphics in the aspect of fashion, and it is proposed the 3D fashion design simulation in the virtual space used on 3D studio max, poser, photoshop program according to fashion design process. The main design concept is "temporary bridge" from rainbow. "Temporary bridge" is a rainbow bridge which connects nature, man and technology, and also the past, present, and future. This study is supposed six fashion design in accordance with three sub-theme under main concept by changing rotor and texture used on 3D simulation. The conclusion are as follows : First fashion design process, which consists of design conceptualization, design definition, and computer design process, composed of body modeling, clothing modeling, texture mapping, rendering by lighting and camera establishing are compared. Second, fashion design process is applied to digital technology. Third, the method of body modeling is both that of direct modeling in 3D Studio Max and that of importing DXF file from poser. And the method of direct clothing modeling in 3D Studio Max are two methods, polygon modeling and nurbs modeling. Polygon modeling is more satisfied than nurbs modeling in the aspect of expression to clothing and round face. Forth, this study applies textures and colors transformed by photoshop on manufactured 3D Clothes. According to this result, fashion designers are able to confirm a customer or client in their design minds viewing 3D simulation by various textures. colors and angles. It is able to advance digital fashion show in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.131-146
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to implement the textile design applying the floral pattern shown in Korean traditional fabrics and the New-Hanbok Chulic Dress in 3D through a virtual fitting system. As a research method, first, we analyzed the floral pattern types of fabrics in the literature related to traditional Korean textiles. Second, we developed textile designs of traditional flower motifs using 13 extracted flower types. Third, we applied the floral textile designs to the 3D original form of new-Hanbok Dress produced based on design preference survey results. The findings derived through this study are as follows. First, among Korean traditional patterns, the type of flowers used in textiles were blossom of chrysanthemum, orchid, camellia, apricot, peony, peach, pomegranate, hydrangea, narcissus, lotus, plum, chinese rose, and rosa rugosa. Second, this study found that the value of traditional culture can be further increased by using traditional flower patterns as an infinite source of creative design. Third, it was confirmed that the new-Hanbok can be developed endlessly as a clothing design that combines various morphological modifications and patterns without departing from traditional designs. In the future, if the research on costume design using various items of traditional clothing and the development of textile designs based on traditional culture continues, the development of new clothes design that leads to the development of Korean traditional clothing culture and meets the sensibilities of modern people will be endless.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.597-611
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to propose a design method for one-piece dress patterns with high body fitness through an appearance evaluation of one-piece dress patterns with the application of the 3D Virtual Clothing System known as i-designer. Measures consisted of an optical illusion effect in visual imagery and mutual influence according to a change in the length and princess line, in a silhouette of a one-piece dress. The data was assessed by a t-test and a multi-way ANOVA and factor analysis using SPSS 17.0. The results were as follows; The design of the study pattern was done by modifying the ease of the bust circumference, ease of the abdominal circumference, ease of the hip circumference, the position of the side seam line, and the appearance of horizontality in the hem line, which received a low evaluation in appearance evaluations of a one-piece dress pattern. As a result of analyzing the visual image according to a change in the length and princess line, in the form of a silhouette of a one-piece dress, four factors were selected; the whole-body optical illusion factor, the upper-body optical illusion factor, the bust optical illusion factor, and the lower-body optical illusion factor. As a result of analyzing the effect of the interaction in the visual image according to the design variables, the influence of the main effect was found to be great in each factor. In the upper-body optical illusion factor, a significant difference was not noted in the two-way interaction between the length and the princess line. However, the influence on three-way interaction among the length, princess line, and silhouette was significant.