• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.289-321
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• 1996

After the two big wars (Imjin Woeran and Byungia Horan), the Lee Dynasty confronted rapid transitional periods in almost all aspects of the society. Corruption of the governmental system by the wars and disordered social structures also caused confusion in the social position system. In addition, development of the commercial economic system and monetary economy brought up a new rich middle-class, "Joong in Gyegeup". In ideological aspects, Confucianism indulged in and stick to isms and ics, and the Confucian morality slackened, thus a more pragmatic ideology, "Silhak Sasang", developed. And the emergence of the modern literature and art of the 'common people' was followed by the appearance of the common-people class including those having the common-people concept among the noble-class "Yangban Gyegeup". This evoked a new common costume culture and the fashion appeared. The public could no longer find the power and appeal from the preexisting ruling classes due to the changed role and sense of value. Thus, they sought a new symbolic leader group that would to be the new standard of the newly changed society. That was a group of people called as "Kisaeng" liberal and independent. They were performing social activities, enjoying poetry, music and dancing, and classy dressers, having physically attractive bodies. The erotic as well as luxurious mode proposed by them reflected the trend of that time. It concurred well with the concept and taste of the public, so it was accepted with a good response. That is, by following these leaders, the public achieved their identification and tried to share the prestige of the leaders. For this reason, the Kisaeng group attracted the public attention and led the taste of the public, thereby becoming the influential fashion leaders of that age.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.21-27
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• 2012

In the Chosun period, the noble class usually buried the dead bodies in the lime-covered tomb. Recently their costumes are excavated while maintaining the shape. However, the textiles discovered from the inside have been degradated by a body and moisture. To conserve these textiles one of the most important thing is how to clean these textiles right after the excavation. The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of wet cleaning to minimize the color change of textile remains. For this purpose, silk and cotton were dyed with natural dyes (7 red, 1 blue, 6 yellow, 4 green and 4 purple colors), then they were kept for 6 months with pork meat at $10^{\circ}C$, and were washed by four cleaning solutions (water, anionic surfactant (SDS), non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) and natural surfactant (saponin)) at $20^{\circ}C$ and $40^{\circ}C$. The color change was evaluated by color difference (${\Delta}E$) between non-treated and after washed samples. From the results, it was found that the color changes are significantly different depending on the washing temperature, textile material, the cleaning agents and the type of dyes.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.60-64
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• 2013

Two strains were isolated from the traditional Deep Blue Sediment Dye of Polygoum tinctoria, Niram, and temporarily named Niram A and Niram B, respectively. The phylogenetic analysis revealed that strain Niram A and B were closely related to the members of the genus Comamonas and Microbacterium, respectively. Strain Niram A exhibited the highest 16S rRNA gene sequence similarity to C. aquatica LMG $2370^T$ (98.06%). Strain Niram B showed 100% homology with M. oxydans DSM 20578T and M. maritypicum DSM $12512^T$. The growth of the strain Niram A and B was not inhibited in Niram medium containing high calcium concentration without free sugar as carbon source. The reducing Niram is greenish. Therefore, the reducing ability on the Niram of the strains Niram A and B were determined with the color difference of the $a^*$ values of Niram fermented-fluids. The $a^*$ value indicates the level of redness (positive value) or greenness (negative value). The green color is increasing towards the negative value. In all samples fermented for 10 days, the $a^*$ values among samples were no significant difference. However, samples fermented for 15 days have an appreciable change. After fermentation for 15 days, the control Niram sample had $-3.96{\pm}0.02$ of the $a^*$ value. On the other hand, the Niram samples fermented with the strain Niram A and B showed $-4.20{\pm}0.02$ of the $a^*$ value and $-7.86{\pm}0.03$ of the $a^*$ value, respectively. In the reducing ability on the Niram, the strain Niram B was significantly better than the strain Niram A.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1695-1706
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• 2001

본 연구는 조선시대 남자 포제(포제에 나타난 복식이미지의 구성요인을 밝히고 남자포제 유형별(철릭, 답호, 직령, 도포, 창의, 주의), 시기별(전기, 중기, 후기) 복식이미지를 알아봄으로서 조선시대 남자포제가 가진 복식이미지를 밝혀 현대 전통복식 디자인에 응용될 수 있는 기초적인 자료를 제공하고자 한다. 의복 자극물은 남자 평상복을 중심으로 하여 조선초기(1477년∼1543년)의 남자 포제로는 철릭, 답호, 직령 3점과 조선중기(18세기)는 도포, 창의 2점, 조선후기(17세기 후기∼20세기 초)는 주의 1점으로 하였고, 당 시대의 정화한 복식이미지를 살펴보기 위해 유물을 복원 제작하여 사용하였다. 이것을 모델에게 착장시켜 슬라이드로 제작한 후 자극물로 제시하였다. 의미지분척도외 구성은 자유언어연상법으로 형용사를 수집하여 23쌍의 형용사쌍을 구성하였다. 패널단은 대학생 남·여 총 600명으로 하였고 자료분석은 SAS을 이용하여 요인분석 분산분석 등을 사용하였다. 1. 조선시대 남자 포제의 요인구조는 품위성 요인(25.2%), 활동성 요인(l4.2%), 관할성 요인(37.9%), 현시성 요인(6.7%), 경연성 요인(5.7%)으로 구성되었으며, 이들 5개 요인의 전체변량 62.7% 중에서 품위성 요인, 활동성 요인, 관할성 요인이 전체변량의 50%를 넘어서 이 세 요인이 남자 포제에서 기본적으로 느껴지는 중요한 요인임을 알 수 있다. 2. 조선시대 남자 포제 유형별 복식이미지의 차이를 알아본 결과, 철릭은 가장 부자연스러운, 주름있는, 곡선적인, 부드러운, 특이한 이미지의 포제로 나타났으며, 답호는 가장 절제된, 직선적인 딱딱한, 특이한 이미지로, 직령은 가장 비활동적인, 답답한, 전통적인 이미지로 도포는 가장 품위있는. 관할한 이미지로 창의는 다른 포제에 비해 평범한, 단순한, 이미지로 주의는 가장 품위 없는, 일상적인, 활동적인, 단순한, 순수한 이미지의 포제로 평가되었다. 모든 남자포제가 전통적, 순수한 이미지의 포제로, 철릭을 제외한 모든 포제가 단순한 이미지로 나타나 조선시대 남자 포제가 공통적으로 가지는 이미지는 단순하고 순수한 이미지를 가지고 있음을 알 수 있다. 3. 남자 포제의 시기별 복식이미지에서는 조선전기(철릭, 답호, 직령)의 포제는 관할성 요인이 높은 의례적인, 관할한, 특이한 이미지로 평가되었고 조선중기(도포, 창의)의 포제는 품위있는, 절제된, 풍성한 이미지로 평가되었으며, 조선후기(주의)의 포제는 활동적인, 단순한, 직선적인 이미지로 나타났다. 따라서 시대별 남자 포제의 이미지는 시대적 여건과 상황에 따라 변화되어 왔으며, 시대에 따라 추구하는 이미지가 달랐다는 것을 알 수 있다.

• Archives of design research
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.317-326
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• 1999

The Korean traditional color passed down over countless generations has surpassed both surpassed both time and space and continue today to breathe life into its people's everyday. In order to clarify the characteristics of Korean traditional color blue and red, we investigate the names of them and measured the color tones of textile remains in Chosun era. The characteristics of Korean traditional color blue and red have been surveyed by means of the examination of color names in many famous literatures in Chosun era. Korean terms for color tones were characterized by enormous variety of epithes crowned on them. The color names mentioned contain many unaccountable epithes which were characterized also deep colors and light colors were dominant in it. As a means of enhancing possibilities within limited colors, the commoners increased the names for varying tones of blue color group(32kinds) and red color group(40kinds). These "blue(indigo dyeing)' and 'red(safflower dyeing)' in Chosun era were shown very high frequency in use and the costume colors in Royal Court. With combination of these various blue and red colors they represented a thought of color based on Yinyang Theory and created a polished aesthetic taste. The color samples of textile remains in museum were measured and designated by Munsell color system and the ISCC-NBS color designation system. THe appeared rates were derived on Chosun era and features of colors using on the period were discussed. We aim to present specific recipes in indigo dyeing and safflower dyeing for using our apparel product and folk art.

• The Korean Nurse
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.44-52
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to inquire the people's views on nursing for nurses, correct the image of nurse and take it as basis to be applied on nursing education examining the image of nursing on Television drama playing important role of mass media. 22 nurses of the characters in drama is applied to the analysis object of this study by selecting 6 dramas of Television ones the nurse play on the prime time from June 1 to August 31 in 1997. Contents analysis method was used in Data Analysis, 4 items was used after Coders previously modify and compensate it based on research documents of 1m Milim(1996) 2 Coders made the Coding the article on each person by them seeing the recorded film making the Coding Paper each items is written by the character. The average of reliability degree was 90% which measured the reliability degree by the mathod of Holsti. The statisic method of frequency, percentage was used SPSS Program in data processing The results were as follows. 1. Relative importance of 86.2% nurses in drama was depicted as extra characters 2. The affair attitude of nurses shown on drama was revealed as mechanical(84.7%), passive(45.5%), dependent(54.4%) unkind(68.2%). 3. The activity of nurses was classified with professional! simple affair. The professional affairs such as I.V., Blood Pressure Check, Rounding, Nursing Recording, Patient Education, Assist of Operation, Assistant meal of Patient, etc is mainly depicted and the screen of simple affair such as Receiving telephone, Carrying Tray or Dragging, Stretcher Car, Dressing Car and or Wheel Chair than professional affair. 4. The appearance feature of nurses was shown on thin physique(68.2%), common stature(68.2), dirty costume(45.4%), common appearance(81.9%), unnoble action(63.6%). The image of nurses is illuminated as the exterial scene of technical affair such as assisting the doctors and affair focused on accident and educational activity of nureses or extended role is nor depicted on Television drama. Therefore, the people regard the nurse as sexual object with good appearance than professional worker working professional nursing We want the following, epigraph based on above conclusion. 1. The continuous research is required on the image of nurse shown on various mass media. 2. The later research is required on appliction strategy of mass media for advancing the image of nurse. 3. The research to strengthen the objectivity by comparing analyzed data on drama & analyzing it is required 4. Through the deep study, the standard to show a concrete and professional work of nurses to scenario writers of TV drama is suggested by the association. 5. The monitoring about the mass media must be activated, not by some nurses, on a national scale and much study on the basis of this is needed.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.44
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• pp.239-281
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• 2016

This article explores the fate of futurism not only by tracing the entire process from the birth and decline of Russian futurism in the early 20th century and the so-called "Korean futurism" in the early 21st century, but also by delving into how their characteristics were shaped. In the first chapter, we investigate four groups of Russian futurism - Ego-Futurism, Cubo-Futurism, Tsentrifuga, and the Mezzanine of poetry, which were born in the age of utopianism before the Revolution. In the opera Victory Over the Sun, which was the culmination of the Zaum project of Cubo-futurists, we can find the initial shortcomings at the levels of language (Kruchenykh), music (Matyushin) and decoration and costume design (Malevich). In the second chapter, we examine chronologically how the term 'futurism' appeared in Korean literature history. In Korea, the term 'futurism' was born following the naming and classification of critic Kwon Heok-Woong, not by the voluntary manifestation of experimental poets such as Hwang Byong-Seung, thus this specific situation provoked stormy polemics between critics for futurism and critics against futurism in the Korean literary world. These polemics on futurist poetics have led to considerations of the relation of criticism to poetry.

• Journal of Ginseng Culture
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• v.1
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• pp.57-66
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• 2019

Ginseng has been recognized as a lifespan extending medicine which has been regarded as one of the medicines classified as top medicines, as the Boncho (medical herbs) study which is influenced by the idea of guidance's costume and food concept mainly in China is gaining its bona fide form. As the demand for ginseng has been expanded to other levels, the demand for ginseng has been increasing. Ginseng from the nature reached its supply chain limit due to its extinction and difficulty of picking, so it translated into ginseng cultivation of economy rather than harvesting in nature. After the start of ginseng cultivation, the ginseng cultivation was further enhanced by the rapid development of processing methods such as white-ginseng and red-ginseng, and the surge of consumption due to the traditional belief in ginseng drug efficacy and support of scientific research. In the Joseon Dynasty, the name Gasam (cultivated ginseng) had been created as ginseng was cultivated on farmland after the stage of SanYang (wild cultivated ginseng), the purpose of the new name Gasam is to differentiate from natural ginseng, and natural ginseng lost its firm position as the genuine ginseng as the Gasam replaced the genuine ginseng, and the natural ginseng got a new name of SanSam (wild ginseng). Because the real ginseng substance concept dissipated, and as Gasam is being called ginseng, the name Gasam was also disappeared. As a result, it was possible to grow large quantities according to the arrival of the Gasam era, and it was possible to supply the demand for ginseng, and it could become one agricultural industry. In this ginseng cultivation, in Japan where ginseng did not grow naturally, it was difficult to obtain ginseng from Joseon and faced with a shortage of ginseng at all times. Therefore, the shogun cultivated the Gasam systematically at the national level by the inside of the shogunate. However, since the natural ginseng is native to China and Korea, there is a concern about the deterioration of the quality of natural ginseng due to the incorporation of cultivated ginseng (Gasam). To protect the interests, the cultivation of ginseng was subject to control. For this reason, the lack of historical information on Gasam cultivation, which had to be started secretly, would be a natural result. In this paper, althouh not sufficient enough, the historical informations were used to summarize the history of ginseng cultivation in China, Japan and Korea.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.188-207
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• 2013

This study looks at the costumes for the crown prince based on the Hyomyeong of 1817, a collection of the National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The picture of School Entrance Ceremony of the Crown Prince (王世子入學圖) does not have the crown prince in the scene. However, it can be verified through literature that there are three different costumes for the ceremony. Chulgungui(出宮儀), the ceremony's first procedure, describes the departure of the prince crown from his residence toward Sungkyunkwan (成均館) with his escorting officials. The Crown Prince wears Seoyeonbok (書筵服) during this event. When the Crown Prince arrives at Sungkyunkwan, he participates in a series of ceremonies that consist of Jackhunui (酌獻儀), Wangbokui (往復儀), Supeiui (脩弊儀), and Ipackui (入學儀). At that time, he wears a confucian scholar's uniform. After returning from Sungkyunkwan, he attends Suhaui (受賀儀), the final procedure of the Crown Prince's School Entrance, at Simindang (詩敏堂) of Changgyong Palace(昌慶宮), At this time, the price crown wears Wonyukwanbok (遠遊冠服) as he is congratulated by royal family members and high ranking officials for his entrance to Sungkyunkwan in this ceremony. This point hereby concludes this study on the historical costumes for the prince crown based on the Hyomyeong Crown Prince's School Entrance in 1817.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.166-185
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• 2015

Recently, as an enonomic importance of the Eurasian Continent raises, the necessity of east-west connecting ancient transport roads research is increasing. Although domestic research of eastern-western international exchange in the Eurasia is not yet very active, the studies of history, archaeology, art history, folklore, costume history have been advanced steadily. An attention for the exchange through steppe route originated from the interest in Korean folk and Korean culture and the research range is extending to Xiungnu, Kurgan culture as a direct investigation on the remains of Mongolia and Kazakhstan has been achieved constantly. The art history has been leading the research of exchange which is based on desert and oasis. The field research of Iran, Uzbekistan, Azerbaijan, etc progressed in various routes, and the research on diverse topics including Silla's golden culture, transmission of glass, and the Buddhism is improving. Research on the maritime silk road is weaker, compared to other parts. Buddhist and Hindu temples of Southeast Asia attracted some interest to people, but the research should focus on the restoration of sea route and consideration of its meaning. Research of this part is expected to be more activative, as domestic researchers investigate Don Son culture and Sa Huynh culture of Vietnam by themselves. From now on, we should focus on topics that are not directly connected to Korean history, and Korean culture. Because it is also our duty to study and conserve the culture of entire human community.