• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.1-6
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• 1987

We have confirmed the phototoxicity of orange flower absolute, studied the phototoxic ingredient and developed a method to eliminate it. To confirm the phototoxicity, we tested French orange flower absolute, Moroccan absolute and Egyptian absolute with Hartley strain guinea Pig under UV irradiation ranging from 320400 nm supplied with fluorescent lamps. Using a combination of isolation techniques including HPLC and IR, we were able to confirm that the phototoxic agent was bergapten. The development of a non-phototoxic orange flower absolute using ion exchange chromatography is described.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.239-242
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• 2016

A novel Nicotinoyl fused peptide, Nicotinoyl-LVH, was synthesized by solid phase peptide synthesis method, purified, and tested in cultured skin cells. Nicotinoyl-LVH enhanced the expression level of collagen mRNA and its fragments in fibroblasts. These data show that this novel Nicotinoyl peptide is a promising biomaterial in the anti-aging functional cosmetic market.

• Toxicological Research
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.105-136
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• 2015

Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are products of condensed ethylene oxide and water that can have various derivatives and functions. Since many PEG types are hydrophilic, they are favorably used as penetration enhancers, especially in topical dermatological preparations. PEGs, together with their typically nonionic derivatives, are broadly utilized in cosmetic products as surfactants, emulsifiers, cleansing agents, humectants, and skin conditioners. The compounds studied in this review include PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil. Overall, much of the data available in this review are on PEGylated oils (PEG-40 and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oils), which were recommended as safe for use in cosmetics up to 100% concentration. Currently, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate and PEGylated oils are considered safe for cosmetic use according to the results of relevant studies. Additionally, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer should be further studied to ensure its safety as a cosmetic ingredient.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.286-293
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• 2003

In cosmetic formulations, texture plays a key role in ingredient choice and formulation optimization. But texture parameters are often measured by sensorial analysis in the last stages of formulation development. Rheology or texture analysis, used separately, has the benefit of characterizing the behavior of raw materials (e.g. polymers) and controlling and predicting the stability of formulations. SEPPIC has developed rheology and texture analysis protocols to obtain a better understanding of the influence of raw materials on the cosmetic texture of formulations. When used in combination, these two methodologies are complementary and provide useful data regarding the impact of raw material choice on all the development steps: manufacturing procedure, formulation stability, skin feeling.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.219-226
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• 2021

Gastrodia elata has a very low pollination rate in natural state, and even in artificial cultivation, there are very few individuals that bloom due to the degeneration, so little studies have been conducted. This study confirmed that the potential as a cosmetic ingredient by evaluating the antioxidant activity through the evaluation of DPPH radical scavenging activity, anti-inflammatory activity through the inhibitory effect on nitric oxide production, and the moisturizing activity through the effect on promoting hyaluronic acid production by artificially flowering G. elata flower. It was also confirmed that the appearance rate and flowering rate of G. elata harvested in spring were high, and the content of gastrodin was 0.36%. The IC50 value of G. elata flower extract was 0.045% and it was confirmed that G. elata flower extract had higher radical scavenging activity than G. elata root extract. The NO production inhibitory activity against the flower extract showed a significant inhibitory effect from 1% to 83.2%. Hyaluronic acid production promotion efficacy was not confirmed in the G. elata root extract, but the production rate increased with concentration dependence in the flower extract, and it was the highest at 46.9% when 0.02% treatment was performed. Based on the above research results, it is judged that G. elata flower extract has high potential for use as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin moisturizing cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2017

Cimicifuge dahurica (C. dahurica), Coptis chinensis (C. chinensis) and Phellodendri amurense (P. amurense) extracts has an detoxification effect and Magnol obovata bark (M. obovata) extracts has an antibacterial effect in oriental medicine. This study investigated the possibility of the extract mixture as a functional cosmetic ingredient by mixing C. dahurica, C. chinensis, P. amurense and M. obovata extracts. MTT assay was carried out for toxicity test and DPPH/ABTS experiments for antioxidant effects of the extract mixture. Results show that the extract mixture was safer and antioxidant effects in a dose-dependent manner than single extract of the mixture. The mixture effectively inhibited NO (nitric oxide) production, which indicate good efficacy for anti-inflammation. The mixture also protected UVB-induced cell damage and increased type 1 pro-collagen synthesis in fibroblast. In addition, it's treatment inhibited the melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity by lowering expression of MITF, tyrosinase and TRPs in B16F10 melanoma cell. These results suggest that medicinal herbal extract mixture may be useful as a functional ingredient for anti-aging and skin whitening cosmetic formula.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.233-250
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• 2003

We often use the KCID(Korean Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) and ICID(International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) within cosmetics research and within their export and import. so far, we do not have a database of a cosmetics' raw materials. Because of this, we consume a lot of time to find the raw material data that is needed. This study constructs a cosmetics' raw material database and develops the program to retrieve it. We used a Linux machine as the equipment for this study and we used Apache web server, MySQL database server and PHP as the tools of this study. 11,817 kinds of raw materials data were registered as ICID, 866 kinds of raw materials data were registered as KCID and 28,008 kinds of raw materials data with registered trade name into the database. Also, The database was composed of the database of the association form. The database of the online form could ultimately reduce the task time as soon as it did its purpose. The product of this study can become a good basis of data to reconfigure. In the future, it can become a good database in relation with different databases.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.127-135
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• 2007

This study was to evaluate the efficiency of different solvent systems to extract active ingredients from different parts of medicinal plants used as oriental medicinal herb in the cosmetic industry. We tested efficacies related to the antioxidative effects and UV absorption of herbal extracts as complex of active ingredients, not each single ingredient. When extracting medicinal plant which is used effective medicine, we should consider the collecting conditions like collecting time, place, part and extracting conditions like solvent, temperature, time, and etc. Among them, extraction solvent and collecting part are very important factors for the efficacy. As increased interest in medicinal plants, more intensive studies on collecting conditions and extracting processes were needed for the developments in the herbal ingredient industry. We evaluated the efficiency of different solvent systems to extract active ingredients from different parts of plants (Terminalia chebula, Syzygium aromaticum, Paeonia lactiflora, Morus alba, Scutellaria baicalensis) widely used as medicine and food. As results, we found that proper condition can make better data and decrease the required quantity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.145-150
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• 2010

Anoectochilus formosanus, commonly known as "Jewel Orchids", which has been used in traditional folk medicines for feber, pain, and diseases of the lung and liver in Taiwan. We artificially cultured Anoectochilus formosanus plantlet by using the bioreactor culture system for this study from Anoectochilus formosanus. Previously, several studies have been reported on pharmacological activities of lipid-metabolism, hepatoprotective activity, anti-tumor activity and immuno-stimulating effects but other efficacy were not well known as a cosmetic ingredient for skin care. In this study, we investigated the effect of melanogenesis in B16 mouse melanoma cells and lipid droplet accumulation in 3T3-L1 preadipocytes about Anoectochilus formosanus plantlet extract. We report that Anoectochilus formosanus plantlet extract inhibits the cytoplasmic lipid droplet accumulation through adipogenic differentiation of preadipocytes as well as inhibition of tyorsinase activity and melanogenesis. As a result, our findings indicate that Anoectochilus formosanus plantlet extract may be the potential natural ingredient for whitening and slimming cosmetic products.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.87-107
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• 2003

It was demonstrated that Transactivating transcriptional activator(TAT) protein from HIV-1 shown to enter cells when added to the surrounding media. TAT peptide chemically attached to various proteins was able to deliver these proteins to various cell and even in tissues in mice with high levels in heart and spleen. In this study, the tripeptide GKH(Glycine-Lysine-Histidine) derived from Parathyroid hormone (PTH), which was known as lipolytic peptide, is attached to 9-poly Lysine(TAT) to be used as a cosmetic ingredient for slimming products. When Glycerol release, expressed as extracellular glycerol concentration, is lipolysis index, TAT-GKH at $10^{-5}$mo1/L induces approximately 41.5% maximal lipolytic effects in epididymal adipocytes isolated from rats, compared with basal lipolysis. Epididymal adipose tissues of male rats is assessed ex vivo by microdialysis. Probes are perfused with Ringer solution in which increasing concentrations of TAT-GKH. The perfusion of TAT-GKH induces lipolytic effect. Penetration study showed that TAT-GKH efficiently elevates 36 times higher penetration into the excised hairless mice skin than GKH. in vivo study showed that TAT-GKH had a better effect upon the relative volume of eye bag after 28 days of application on twenty(+2) healthy female volunteers. It was identified that TAT-GKH increases penetration enhancement and lipolytic effects in both in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo.