• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.67-72
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• 2018

Green tea (Camellia sinensis L.) has been widely explored for its medicinal applications. However, most of the studies had targeted the green tea leaf, while other parts remained unexplored. In this study, protective effect of green tea root extract on Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEKs) against the damage induced by an external stimulant (PM2.5) was confirmed. Thirty-year-old green tea root samples were collected from Amorepacific's Dolsongi tea field and green tea root extract was prepared with 70% ethanol. Total crude saponin content in green tea root extract was 54%, which is much higher than that in ginseng extract. Our results suggest that green tea root extract can be used as a natural surfactant in cosmetics. For evaluating its protective effect against the damage induced by PM2.5, IL-36G was used as a biomarker. IL-36G mRNA expression level increased remarkable upon PM2.5 treatment in NHEKs. Moreover, IL-36G was recently reported to be expressed in psoriasis lesions. Results showed significant decrease of IL-36G expression by treatment of green tea root extract. In conclusion, thirty-year-old green tea root extract can be used as a natural surfactant with a high saponin content and may have protective effect against the damage induced by PM2.5.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.434-447
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• 2019

Polyethylene glycol (PEG) is widely used in cosmetics as a surfactant, detergent and emulsifier. During the manufacturing process, 1,4-dioxane, which is toxic to humans, can be produced as a by-product by dimerization of ethylene oxide. As consumers' interest in cosmetic ingredients has increased, the need for safe emulsion research without PEG ingredients in the personal care market has increased. With increasing consumer interest in cosmetic ingredients, the need for safer emulsion research without the PEG ingredient in the personal care market has increased. In this study, we aimed to develop and stabilize nanoemulsion formulation without PEG. Response Surface Methodology (RSM) was used to develop optimized nanoemulsion formulations. Surfactant content (2~4%), oil content (4~8%) and polyol content (12~24%) were set as independent variables as a result of preliminary experiments for determining independent variables and ranges. The particle size, zeta potential, turbidity, and polydispersity index of the formulation were measured as response variables. As a result of measurement of the prepared nanoemulsion by FIB (Focused ion beam), spherical particles were found to have a size distribution of 100 to 200 nm. The stability of each formulation was evaluated for 30 days at each temperature ($4^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, and $45^{\circ}C$). The optimal formulation considering the optimum particle size, turbidity, polydispersity index and zeta potential was found to be surfactant (2%), oil (8%) and polyol (24%).

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.135-143
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• 2016

In this study, we investigated the stability of the liposome formulation containing the phytochemicals-peptide derivatives. Among liposomes prepared using lecithins or surfactant under various conditions, the most stable niosome was obtained by using sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate and macadamia intergrifolia seed oil. The stability of peptide-containing niosome (N9) was confirmed by the TEM images. The N9 was stable at 0 and 45 degrees by Turbiscan, and its particle size was 95.7 nm. The N9 showed zeta potential value of -78.19 mV, and peptide-inclusion rate of 65.2% by BCA assay.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.381-388
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• 2018

Various characteristics of Opuntia humifusa (O. humifusa) extract solution obtained under low temperature and reduced pressure were examined and cosmetic essences using the extract solution as a humectant were prepared. The O. humifusa extract solution represented very small surface tension (25 mN/m) and contact angle ($8^{\circ}$), compared with other humectants such as glycerine and 1% hyaluronic acid solution. Also, the viscosity and stickiness of the extract solution were very low. The O. humifusa extract solution made it possible for a small amount of oil to be dispersed stably in water without any surfactant. Unlike other humectants, the viscosity and stickiness of cosmetic essences were reduced as the extract solution content in formulation increased. These results show that the O. humifusa extract solution obtained under low temperature and reduced pressure can be used as a natural humectant that provides moisturizing property and less sticky feeling.

• Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.70-76
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• 2006

Purecell, hydroxyethyl-cellulose-2-hydroxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride ether, was developed as a thickener and evaluated its functions for stability and safety when it was added in the cosmetic composition. Compared with a commercially available thickener Natrasol, Purecell have a basic chemical backbone of hydroxyethylcellulose which has been widely used in the cosmetic industry. pH and viscosity of Purecell was lower than those of Natrasol, however, a similar pH value to was shown when the Purecell was added into a shampoo or cream. The Purecell was stable to temperature and light. When 0.5% of the Purcell was added to a shampoo having cationic surfactant, a separation occurred due to the same cationic surfactant of the Purecell and shampoo. However, the shampoo and cream made with Purecell improved a smoothness and adaptability of hair. It also showed a negative response for Patch test of human, indicating the Purecell was safe for use.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.133-138
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to examine the correlation between physical properties of dried coacervate films and dry feel for shampoo composition. Simple shampoo compositions were made of two different cationic charge density polymers in the same surfactant compositions. The simple shampoo compositions were diluted with distilled water to make coacervate. Formed coacervate was collected by centrifuge (3,000 rpm, 30 min). Coacervate was coated on the glass plates and dried in drying oven (for 1 h, $50^{\circ}C$) to make the thin film. We carried out an experiment on measurement of contact angle, moisture loss ratio and SEM image analysis of the dried coacervate film. Dry feelings of the shampoos were evaluated by panel using hair tresses. Results show that the properties of dried coacervate films affect the dry feel of the after shampooing.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.285-293
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• 2018

A structure of coacervate affects the adsorption of oil and polymer as a conditioning ingredient. This study aims to elucidate a structural characterization of the coacervate of which is a mixture of alkyl cellulose and guar gum. It is well known that the guar gum supports stiffness to the hair when it is adsorbed on the hair. However, addition of guar gum in the formulation composed of alkyl cellulose tremendously increased flexibility in hair. The stable complex system is induced by an electrostatic force between a head group of anionic surfactant and an quarternary ammonium at the alkyl cellulose, and the affinity of alkyl chain to the oil inside the micelle of surfactant by hydrophobic interactions. Taken together, amount of the coacervate increased oil-delivery upon hair in shampooing and these caused a low bending rigidity and calming on the hair swatch.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.59-65
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• 1999

For a cosmetic plant wastewater containing surfactants of high concentration, adsorption treatment by granular activated carbon(GAC) having different pore size distribution was studied. Three sorts GACs were used and regenerated afterwards with methanol. Experiments were composed of batch process and column test for both virgin and regenerated GACs. Following conclusions were drawn from the study: Methylene blue activating substance(MBAS) adsorption data from the batch tests for three GACs are described well by BET isotherm and Freundich isotherm. Simulation with the BET isotherm shows that maximum adsorption appears to be affected not only by specific surface area but also by pore size distribution. Maximum adsorption from the BET isotherm for MBAS appears to diminish as the number of reactivation increases. The diminishing ratio of maximum adsorption appears to decrease as the pore size decreases. Recovery ratio of the methanol by vacuum evaporation from the spent methanol ranges from 95% to 97%.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.55-59
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• 2001

These N-acyl amino acid surfactants is normally produced by reaction of acid anhydride with sodium ${\ell}-glutamate$ hydrolysates under Schotten-Baumann condition i.e., in alkaline aqueous medium. To avoid using fatty acid chlorides, acylations were also carried out with the fatty acids themselves or with their methyl esters, but unfortunately these methods cannot be used in practice, dodecenyl succinic anhydride, was to be studied for their suitability as acylating agents the production if acylated glutamine hydrolysates. The surface activities including surface tension forming power, forming stability and emulsifying power were measured. The experimental results revealed that the products have a good emulsifying power. Thus, there derivatives will be expected to be used an emulsifying agent for O/W type cosmetic emulsion.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.353-360
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• 2010

This study was carried out to investigate the possibility of solid particles as a stabilizing agent instead of surfactant for preparing emulsions in the cosmetics. The type of emulsions stabilized by solid particles was dependent on wettability of the particles for water and oil. The optimal conditions of emulsions stabilized by solid particles were determined with ratio of water and oil phase, polarity of oils and amount of stabilizers. In the foundation appling the optimal condition of emulsions stabilized by solid particles without surfactant, the stable emulsion type foundation was successfully prepared. As a result, this work indicates that emulsions stabilized by solid particles can be applied to make-up cosmetics.